TUF250

hi guys, just some feedback for the thread... I picked up a NGK OZA395-E2 from bursons the otehr day. Only $100 RRP Direct fit, same connector adn even comes with a sealant on teh thread so need to buy gasket goo. Seems to work really well Cheers

thanks for the replies guys, new wheels and wider tyres are definately the next step. Do people think that I will have any tune troubles from where I am (R&R particually) if I was to do the cheap eath boost mod to get 7-8psi all the time? I was going to do this for the time being until I can put the cash together for a EBC and proper tune Just want a little more in the mean time

pics?

yeah wheels and tyres are my next mod. I can launch the thing but it struggles with traction if I take off any harder than using about 2500rpm. So that is definately next. It running std boost at the moment. I was thinking of doing the earth mod to get 7-8 all the way through but will this upset the computer tune? i dont want it to run badly. Longer term I want to so something with the turbo and a proper tune but I have spent too much on it recently so I have to pace myself

Hi all, I have a S2 R33 GTS-T manual. Its done 89,000ks and and so far I have done the following: - Full service (inc. plat plugs, timing belt, engine/box/diff oil, fuel filter etc etc) - Put the std airbox back in with a BMC filter and a custom made scoop to direct air into the snorkle - 3 Inch bell mouth style dump/front pipe - Car already had an Xforce cat and a stainless 3 inch jap system (its too quiet though, i think the rear muffler might be a bit restrictive, its huge!) - R34 SMIC with all the ducting (i used this cooler to keep up the responsiveness as im after 0-100 mroe than 1/4mile) Now next I want to flush and bleed the clutch and brakes and change the wheels from stock, I want something with wider tyres as well Now my bench mark car is my mates BF XR6 Turbo Series 2 (typhoon engine basically) with the 6 speed auto. The thing is a bullet. i am not looking to build a quarter mile car, the thing is a daily and I want it all legal but I would like to be able to bust his XR6T. What would you recommend I do next without spending huge dollars? the car runs really well atm and is really economical so I dont want to upset that either. I was thinking boost controller? or doing the earthing mod to get 7psi all the time? what do people recommend? will this upset the tune and send it into R&R from where I am? any thoughts would be great

Hi all, I want to bleed the clutch in my R33 and change the fluid, I have two questions: - 1. Which type of fluid do youu use, dot 3 or dot4? - 2. which nipple do you bleed from? the one at the master cylinder or the slave (down near the gearbox)? - If from the lower one then why is there a nipple at the cylinder in the engine bay?

i got the lightweight in the mail today. I just hope draining the oil overnight gets all the nulon out, i will wor the gears a bit to squeeze out all I can

Hi all, I bought my gts-t with 86,000ks. the gearbox was notchy when I bought it, no doubt the oil was original. I bought some VMX80 and nulon G70 as recommended by various people. After the change the box shifted great! but slowly it has gotten worse again. I have read its due the nulon being too slippery and not letting the synchros engage. So I am going to drain it out and put some redline shockproof in. I have bought the redline already. What I want to know is, if I drain the oil over night will it get all the nulon out? Will the little bit left over do enough to cause the now oil or box any more harm? Thanks Jason

ok I have ordered the oil. Ten out of ten for customer service from harols (the website recommended above)! just fantastic. Oil should be here tomorrow. Now here is my question. I have vmx 80 with the g70 additive in the car now, has been there for about 1500ks. Apparently the g70 reduces friction and causes the syncrhos not to engage. If I drain the oil overnight will it get all the nulon out or do I have to flush it? If I drain it will the little bit of nulon left upset the redline oil? thoughts would be appreciated, just such a pain to drain it, dont want to do it more than I have to if it can be avoided thanks

very nice mate

swesome info, thanks guys!

yeah mine seems notchy when hot and cold, its fine going back into 2nd from third though? why would this be? think ill give the redline a go, just wonder if i should put the nulon in too?

yeah the vmx80 was great when it went in, note I used the nulon g70 too but its gotten worse again. Very stiff when cold, only into second and not that flash wehn hot either, i might try the redline and see if it makes a difference do you use the nulon dditive with the redline shockproof?

nice, I have all of that but the cam gears and tune, what sort of boost was required to get tht figure with your setup?

any chance you could post up some pics or send them via mms to 0431 286 689 particually of the gutter rash definately interested thanks

yeah it seems to work well, for my application anyways, dont think I got as much out of it as the dump pipe and cat but still a solid gain. I can see it being a limitation if boost was to be increased. Being a series 2 bumper it has a pretty open area that the ducting fits nicely around which is probably why it is effective

thanks mate, still going down the 350z/gt-t wheels path at this stage, still looking guys!

bump

ok thats fine and I did know that I was just curious if there was a benifit to having air flow over the tanks but thanks for the responses. Must admit for my near stock application it was a worth while upgrade, appears to get through the RPM band quicker, definately has more punch, probably due to better flow rather than cooler air though. I would highly recommend that people pull out their coolers and pipes and give them a good clean, couldnt believe the amount of crap that came out of them. On a good note, absolutely no shaft play in my turbo which I was excited about

Hi all. No I have an R33 GTS-T manual. So far my mods include a full service (best mod ever ), A turbo back 3inch exhaust with high fow cat, Re-installed the standard airbox with a high flow filter (and a custom scoop to direct air into the snorkle). I decided to put an R34 SMIC in the car, now before everyone tells me they are no good. My goal with the current setup is to run standard boost and keep the car as streetable adn responsive as possible. Longerterm I would like to put in a bigger turbocharger and a FMIC will be included but thats not where we are up to yet. The point is I got the R34 SMIC really really cheap so I tought I would give it a go. Overall Im happy, reasonable easy to install. The car felt a little smoother to throughout the rpm band (not sure why?) and I think it had a little more sting but not much, still worth while mod. The end tanks seemed noticable cooler after a drive than the std ones did. I also cut every second slat from the exit vanes that are in the front passenger wheel well to let a little more air flow out and away from the cooler Anyway to my question. The IC came with an air duct which I installed. Great idea, force all the air over the core. My question is would I be better running it or not? Is it more adventageous to have all teh air running over the core? or would it be better to remove it and let the air pass over the end tanks as well at the expense of less core flow? any thoughts would be appeciated Jason

Hi guys. My 33 gts-t recently developed the common idle hunt and stall issue. Pleased to report for all those people who search in the future that cleaning the AAC valve almost fixed the problem. It was about 75% there, I then changed the oxy sensor and the car was back to normal 100%. I was thrilled. I reset the computer aswell. Now about 2 weeks later a fast idle issue has developed (it dosnt end!) It is intermitant. Hot or cold, it varies. The cars idle is smooth but will pick up to about 1800rpm and sit there. Sometimes it will settle down to the normall 7-800ish and othertimes it wont. Its not doing it at the moment but im sure it will come back. Thoughts? Has anyone had this issue and found the solution? I have cleaned the afm and set the TPS to 0.43 at closed throttle and 4.1 at WOT with ign ON Im thinking faulty TPS or AFM? what are peopls thoughts on what would cause this? just dont want to spend money replacing uneccessary things. thanks guys

still looking at getting a tps too let me knwo if you have one

ok thats good to know. where do you buy it from? what weight did you use (80 or 75w90 etc?)

Hi guys, Im after an intake snorkle off an R34 GT-T. I want to experiment with it on my 33. Just the snorkle (clips if you have them) dont need the rest of the airbox. pics would be great if you have them Will pay for postage Thanks

would be interesting to see, I just cant work out how it all mounts up?