TUF250

Hi, I want to get a new oxy sensor for my r33 gts-t series 2. I want a direct fit one to avoid using the crimp terminals. I ahve been given a Bosch part number 226 901 3007. Can anyone confirm if this is the suitable plug and play sensor and harness for my car? I ahve looked at the bosch catalouge online but the r33 is not listed Thanks!

why do the iridium/platinums foul quickly? i only ask because I just put a new set in mine

do you have the std r34 intercooler?

thanks for the replies guys. very ncie engine bay there! I will experiement with the stock heat shield and if I cant get the results Im after ill buy some of that ACL stuff. Would like to get the stock sheild in there only to keep it looking standard if/when I get pulled over for an inspection

Are you using the stock engine bay plumbing? do you have any pics of the pipework? what hoses and connectors did you need for the isntall? This will probably be enough for mine as i dont plan (at this stage gonig past the stock turbo or std boost (maybe with the earthing mod to get the 7-9psi all the time, the car is a daily

thanks for the replies. The return flow kits are around $750 which I know is cheap, the only reason I asked was because dad has an XR6T, just upgraded the cooler so I have a free XR6 cooler sitting at home. He bought a typhoon cooler for $100 second hand so I thought it might be worth considering. The trick would obviously be mounting and piping which is where the money will go, so I agree with you there. Was jsut curious as I saw a stagea for sale with it done and it wasnt something I had considered before. As for the R34 cooler, I had considered this as well. They seem hard to find second hand. I was thinking the bigger cooler would be money well spent on those stop start traffic days in melbourne summers. maybe its overkill? What about the tune side of things? will the computer become upset once I tack these mods on with the ones I already have? Thanks

thanks mate, loving the new forum. much more informative than the last one I was involved with. cheers

Hi all, I have an r33 gts-t, I have put the std airbox back in with a BMC filter and a scoop to direct air up to the snorkle, As of last week I have a 3inch dump pipe installed to match the 3inch cat and catback system in it. Very pleased with the results! Next mod is the intercooler. Now I wont be going crazy with boost levels in this car. I will do the earth mod to get 7psi accross the whole rev range and that will probably be it. So I have been looking at intercooler options, I wont be cutting a whole in the guard so the more common accross the radiator kits will not work for me. This led me to looking back at other options. I considered the R34 cooler and while it will probably work fine for my application, I figure you cant have enough cooling, particually with melbourne summers (40C +). So this brought me back to the return flow kits. They are fairly expensive new and second hand ones are hard to come by. I was wondering if anyone had success installing a BA/BF XR6T or the bigger typhoon intercoolers in their r33 (series 2 with sirbags - for clearance issues)? How welll do these flow? Do they fit? and how did people go with the plumbing isses? (i would want to use the factory engine bay plumbing) Also at this point will the factory tune on my car be ok? ( i know it will run rich) or will it desperately need a retune? It is running very well at the moment with the current mods Thanks

thanks for the replies guys. The BMC is oiled but it is very dry, I also borrowed an AFM cleaned it and put it back in. No difference, so that has been ruled out. I set the TPS to 0.42 with engine off and it reads 4.1v at full throttle so thats in spec and still made no difference, although it did pick up the idle a touch which it needed. (now sits at about 700 when warm. I was doing another search and the ACC valve seems to be a common problem when dirty. I will buy myself some brake cleaner and gasket sealer and give that a good clean tomorrow night becuase its an easy one. if that fails to fix it fuel supply will be my next thing to check thanks for the input guys

well the afm was cleaned very well only a few weeks ago so it should be clean unless its failed. I checked the tps, ignition on and it was 0.39v I did a search here and found that it should be 0.4 - 0.5v so I adjusted it to 0.5 exactly. I took it for a drive and it now idles at 1800rpm! when I get home tonight ill back it off to maybe 0.45v and see what I get. Was also reading about the ACC valve cleaning which I might look into. Is there a basic idle speed screw on the rb25?

the heat shield was all removed when the dump pipe went in, I plan on correcting this next day off, that wouldnt have anything to do with it would it? thinking from a heat soak point of view

thats a good idea, mgiht look into that, whats the best way to mount it to the turbo though?

I will check it but the plug can only be fit one way I think? I never dropped it and cleaned it with the proper electrical contact solution. Might be worth trying another one

nice one, yeah I think they might be the way to go, look good and cheap

Hi all, I have a manual r33 gts-t. The car is low milage, std with a turbo back exhaust, bmc filter (just installed last week) I also gave the car a full service when I bought it 4 weeks ago. (new iridium plugs, cleaned the afm all the oils, timing belt etc) Yesterday I had the 3inch dump pipe installed to finish the exhaust system and had an alarm installed in the afternoon (professionally). I only say these because maybe they are relevant? No today, specifically tonight an odd problem has emerged. The car is running great, very strong, no missing or coughing, everything is great except.... When you leave the lights and touch the accelerator (no matter weather its firm or soft) the idle drops down about 100-200 rpm before it picks up, this has on occasion casused the car to stall. Its very annoying because im getting nervous everytime I leave the lights. Is this a common problem? any ideas what it would be? Interestingly it dosnt happen everytime, probably 4/5 times though, it might be worse when hot but im not sure about that. The car idles (when hot at about 650) which it has doen ever since I bougth it Please help, open to any constructive suggestions. Thanks all.

my 33 had a 3 inch system and 3 inchg cat on it when I bought the car. I just had a bellmouth type 3 inch pipe installed to complete the system. Nice honest gains, very worth while. Definately louder but not by a lot. The car feels like it has more torque, grunts less in high gears at slow speeds, it felt like it has been opened up a little, less restriction and now is done everything a little easier. feels stronger but not excessively different. still highly recommended

Hi all, My name is Jason. I recently bought myself a really clean, low k, R33 GTS-T manual. After owning a string of big capacity aussie fords (including several v8s) I must say I am absolutely thrilled with the skyline!. After driving in a friends 180sx and another mates r33 with soem basic mods, I knew I had to have a turbo car. I spent hours and days reading through car forums, test drive reviews etc etc and decided the skyline was the go. I like the rugedness, the rwd, in line 6 layout which is familiar to me so I feel mroe comfortable working on it (as opposed to say a wrx), DIY is the best part of owning a car for me so this was important. Not to mention the performance potential of the rb25det! So I bought myself one of the cleanest R33s I have ever seen, no marks, spotless interior and only 86,000k which given the condition I would have to believe. I had the car checked inc a comp test and the money changed hands. My first impressions of owning a skyline were that I was impressed with the build quality, no squeeks or rattles, the engine is smooth from idle all the way to redline. the handling and brakes are great. Even the fuel economy was impressive as a daily (compared to my other cars) First thing I did was a major service. I mylself changed the plugs (platinums) diff and gearbox oil (thanks to the diy stickies on here), engine oil and filter. I then booked the car in to have the timing belt, tensioners and seals chaged. (top job by rob and the boys at sabbian automotive, well done!) Now the car was all serviced up I decided to hit the performance, I removed the exposed pod filter and put the standard airbox back in with a BMC filter and made a scoop to direct air from the grill up to the snorkle. This was a worthwhile mod. The car had a stanless 3 inch cat back when I bought it with an x force cat (also 3inch) I finished it of with a bellmouth style 3 inch dump pipe. this mod gave significant gains, both to throttle response and torque. very very worth while. This is where we are now, next is a decent set of wheels and a return flow intercooler. Just wanted to say hi and a thanks to everyone for supplying such good information and advice on this website. I really ahve learnt so much already and hope to be a useful member over the years to come.

Hi, I have just installed a 3inch turbo back exhaust on my r33 gts-t. The dump pipe is a single 3 inch bellmouth type. really happy with the results! however the stock heat shielding all had to be removed. how effective is this heatshield and how much will it affect engine bay temps by not having it? significant power reductions? wanted to know what people have done (with pics if possible) to shield the standard turbo combination? thanks!

still looking for gt-ts or 350z tracks guys

they look good, thanks dude. how much ahas yours been lowered?

great pics, thanks mate!

anyone? even a link would be great thanks

it was the handbrake, thanks for the tip mate!

have found one, will be going on the car this week. look forward to the results. thanks Jason

still interested guys