XxNinjaxX

hey i popped the boot and looked but i couldnt see anything near the spare wheel, there is however a plate nxt to the battery with wires comming out from a rubber grommet, im asuming thats probally the access plate for the sender unit? The fuel pump is after market so i dont think it will need replacement just yet.

hey guys ive had this problem since ive brought the car, im guessing the sender unit is totally rooted so any ammount of fuel i stick in the car sends the gauge straight up to full, then drops from full to half and half to quarter as i use the fuel and stays at quarter until i re-fill, now ive had enough and have decided to finally replace the dam thing soo my question to you all is, do i have to drop the fuel tank to gain access or have nissan been clever and made a access port somewhere in the rear of the car like under the seats or near the battery or somthing? all helps welcome thanks chris. (Edit: cant believe i forgot but the car is a S1 R33 ")

www.aspecautoaccessories.com or give him a email at [email protected] he's pretty good with replying to emails, gets back to you in a day or so.

hey guys, i hand buffed my headlights with toothpaste and it cleaned them up pretty well, its not 100% perfect but it made them alot better than what they were =] cheap aswell! XD

hey, from my understanding if its not a neon it should be legal. they are white led's aswell so it should be all sweet, i havent actually driven it at night since i wired up the lights but you should be safe. the lights do their job so i dont see why they would be fussed about it. =] the guy i brought the car off drove it around with white front indicators and never got hassled so if that doesnt create any attention i dont know what will lol. oh and for yellow tinted globes that fit the parklight soccet you can order those in from aspec aswell, no where else has them lol

Why not just do this? its alot easier lol. I cut my park light wires and wired up the indicator wires to the park light plug so my indicators are now where the park lights were, then wired up a 30cm line of white leds and stuck them in the gap between my headlights and my front bar so they are not visible at day but at night they look sweet. (edit-if anyone from perth is intrested doing this and is wanting to know where to get the led stips its a place called "Aspec" in the carillion arcade just out of the food court)

dunno if this is true or not but ive heard that toothpaste clears it up a little but, sounds funny so i just thought i'd ask before i got out and look for some actuall cleaners =D

EGT is pretty much only for the warning light in the dash, its to tell you that you engine has run ultra lean to the near point of stalling (my mates R32 did it) it sets off a trouble code and the ecu puts the car into a limp mode state. if your car is boosted above stock (say 10psi) like mine im not 100% sure on this so dont quote it but i think the ecu tries to make up for the extra air being forced in by dumping a whole lot of fuel in which results in the rich running. either that or you have a faulty o2 sensor. hopefully that helps a bit if at all

ahh cool thanks guys, yeah im not too worried about the 10psi boost, its not going to hurt anything as its still quite low and its probally as far as im willing to have it boosting to anyway to avoid any problems being caused. i'll clean the iac and give it a throttle body clean to try and sort out the hunting and may even run a injector cleaner to see if that will clear anything up aswell, as i dont know the service history of the car. As for a running mildy rich, what sort of things may i be looking at that could/will cause the engine to do so (im aware that the extra boost with no extra management may cause the ecu to dump fuel to counter the extra air being forced in) but if anyone knows of any other known causes of rich running then dont hessitate to list them down. as ive said earlier the car doesnt blow smoke at all, its just got a strong exhaust smell.

no its not pumping smoke at all, it just revs between 500-1000 rpm until its warmed up. other than that the car runs fine, although its boosted to 10psi with no boost controller..im not sure how thats been done but if someone could also shed some light on that it would also been helpful =D what can i clean the iac with? just some breakcleaner or do i need throttlebody cleaner? i was thinkin of giving it a upper cylinder purge to try to clean out any crap thats in the system.

ok ive brought a r33 series1, i knew it had leaks that needed to be fixed but i was willing to show her some TLC, brought her home ran great, no real problems apart from rich fumes which ive heard to be normal for most skylines. anyway ive had her a few months now and ive noticed on cold start she'l start at 1000rpm and by herself she'l start to fluctuate from 1000/500/1000/500rpm, its not causing any damage but it is annoying since ive just brought her, any ideas on whats causing it? cheers

it was probally one of the 4ltr V6 R51 pathfinders trying to be drift spec, ive got to admit those things do go for what they are (same with the D40 V6 petrol navaras) they produce a bit of torque =O but yeah, i would kill the dick who was "driving" the pathfinder...ahhwell... my advice is go 370z now, ive driven one, found they are a bit small inside for my liking but still a nice car! think they are going for roughly 80 grand...

just a thought, could it possibly be a faulty o2 sensor?

hey guys my mates just called me and told me his r32 Gts-t spluttered after taking off from the lights and shortly after a warning lamp in the dash's right hand bottom corner started to flash in every 2 seconds, im not sure on what the symbol is thats flashing but maybe someone has had similar problems? any suguestions? i drew a pic---

oh cool. i wasnt aware that there was a glass spray, thats actually pretty good. how long will the spray last untill it starts to flake off roughly? as R33 owners would know its a pain in the ass to get to the r/h/f parklight =/ as ive previously said. but yea i'll definatly consider that, its cheaper an less hassle than getting a yellow licky for clear front indicators lol

well if used correctly it is lol, ie:bleed the brakes/clutch but yeahh, im a 3rd year nissan apprentice and i can tell you right now i guarentee that if your gunna work on a car you'l always find something to cut yourself on no matter what your doing

hey guys thanks for all the feedback! turns out it was easy as just changing the front globes to a higher wattage (was only running 5w-12v globes -.-") put in some 12v-16w ones and it slowed them right down its a pain in the ass getting the front right hand parker (now indicator) plug out....had to remove the washer bottle, over flow bottle and move the relay box just to fit my hand in! and i ended up doing it in the dark holding a torch with my mouth but yeah thanks again! anyone know where to find 16-18w amber wedge globes that will still fit the parker socket? (currently using white as i was told it legal) but i just want to be safe.

ive just brought a R33 Gts-T today and the parklights have been made into indicators and is causing the car to think there is a blown globe due to there not being enough current draw on the system because of the size of the wedge type parklight globes. is there anyway of fixing this problem without having to re-wire the indicators and parklights back to the way they were? all help is greatly appreciated. thanks =]