XxNinjaxX

that is one hell of a sexy engine bay....

1.thermostate 2.air in system (raise the front of the car right up, like as high as you can get it and crack off the air bleeder and let it run. then just top up the coolant as required should be alright after that if its got air) 3.water pump failure 4.shit coolant (buy some nissan gen and mix it 60 coolant/40 water) its good stuff man i wouldnt use anything else. oh another thing, where are the heater hoses blocked off from? if its straight off the motor ok but if you still have the hoses connected and blocked off after the heater core then there will be air, the core always seems to hold air in it, its a pain in the ass

block is standard bore measured roughly between 86.00>86.05 and all the honing has been done same with the head recon.

nah mate wasnt calling you an idiot its just some peoples knoledge of cars is so low its scarey.

weld the holes on the bolts and screw them into the block without the pipes, problem solved =] to me, it looks like a highflowed nissan turbo cause those wheels definately aint standard, especially the exhaust wheel..its HUGE

we'l see, im not taking this build lightly. im well aware that everything must be precise and i plan on taking my time on this motor insuring everything is 100% and every bolt is torqued to specification. keep in mind i dont require the motor just yet as my current engine seems happy enough at the moment despite the knock when cold, im sure it will last until the new motor is complete. Measuring will be pretty minimal as i have all specifications and the main bearing grades are stamped on the bottom of the block, big end's on the rods and piston grades stamped on the top of the block. shouldnt be too much of a problem

yes, thats fair enough but just remember the average joe blogs may not have this knowledge. having a seperate light would idiot proof the car and stop people from driving around with little to no brake fluid.

-new thermostate -radiator service should be sweet after that as it covers all bases, if problems persists consult your local GP

LOL, this exact v35 was at my work not that long ago.

lol. im not building this motor for "bragging rights" im doing it because i feel im some what capable of handling the task and the learning experience. fyi my current engine is on 187,800km's, not too far off 200,000 probally been thrashed 90% of its life cause the syncro's are pretty much gone and its got mild piston slap when cold. also my "shed" happens to be a nissan workshop.

+1 for brake fluid level warning indicator +1 for handbrake warning indicator why car companys continue to make one light come on for two or more diffrent things i'll never know, they make me facepalm

i do understand a 2nd hand motor would be alot easier, cheaper and quicker than a build but although the standard motor is capable of handling over my target power level happily i'd still prefer to do a build and make it just that little bit stronger for my piece of mind and just the general satisfaction i would have from building it. even if it does blow up at least i gave it a crack which im sure is more than some of the more cashed up members on here could say for themselves.. fair enough if you can afford to pay for your engine to be built by a workshop but from my p.o.v i'd much rather give it a go and learn from my possible mistakes, the build is going to be almost standard with a few upgraded bits here and there, call me stupid and say im spending money on unnessisary items but for me i really dont see the point in a build or even a secondhand motor if it was just going to be completely standard again. i say if you going to take the time to build a motor or swap one out why not make the most of it and improve it atleast a little at the very least? what im thinking now: adjustible cam gears gates timing belt poncams standard rods (recon'd) standard pistons (new with new rings) N1 oil pump (or standard?, probally no need for n1 at 300>350hp) N1 water pump (same as above, only effective at higher rpm anyway, opinons?) power fc s15 470cc injectors recon'd head ballanced bottom end ARP head studs ARP main studs ACL Main bearings ACL Rod bearings Lightened flywheel R34 turbo (op-6 rear housing, possible highflow)

lol, i didnt mean to start a shit fight. but for me this build is far from pointless, the budget is very tight arse, yes i admit that but the amount i can learn from building a motor myself is far from "pointless" to me and who's to say the second hand "low km" motor isnt just going to shit its self in another 10,20>30,000km's? and put me back to square one? sure it may not happen but i'd prefer to have the reassurance that the motor under my bonnet is built by me so i know everythings right with it.

im building a backup motor, its a diffrent one than the one in my car now. my current engine has piston slap when cold so this is why ive decided to build a replacment engine before my one shits its self all together and i have no engine at all

good call, meant to type, type-A im actually considering not forging the motor due to pure cost factor (looking at 4>5k and thats not including a turbo kit) still would run uprated bearings, headstuds, main studs, cams etc.. if i tune it to around 300hp atw on standard rods and pistons would the motor still be reliable or should i just save and forge it anyway to be on the safe side?

today i measured the top of the bores with the big verniers and all read around high 86.00 to 86.05 across all cylinders, i know this is a crude way to measure but its best i could do with the available tools so im pretty sure its on its first build. got told it was a running motor stripped down at 122,xxx so the head could be used on a 25/30 build then i guess he decided to rebuild it again with a different head? appears to be in good condition though, big ends were intact, no scoring on the crank but i did notice some heat discoloration around where the oil pump drive is, not sure if this is common though. the core plugs have been removed to inspect the water passages, no corrosion is present. going to get the block acid dipped just to be 100% though. also sticking with the hydraulic lifters and just running type-b poncams so i'll definatly be getting them serviced before they get refitted.

ok well i got my engine bits today so ive got 1.Bare block (honed, standard bore) 2.Fully machined head 3.Crankshaft 4.Couple boxes of unlabled bolts where should i start? i figure get the bottom end together firstly, i inspected the pump drive on the crankshaft and can clearly see that it needs the collar as its showing signs of wear and tear on the driving edges so im thinking get it acid dipped, get one put on and have the crankshaft fully reballanced as a first step. i can use as much help with this as i can get so load me up with info guys!

my aim of this build is top produce a motor for my daily that is awesomely reliable but still produces a nice power and torque figure, my aim is anywhere from 300>350hp atw safely and without having to worry about the motor breaking while im giving it a bit of stick on the odd occasion, as i said my main aim is a large torque result as its the torque that you feel while getting putting your foot down not the hp so i want to get the absolute highest (yet safe) midrange torque result from the motor. not intrested in high end power as you cant use it on the street therefore no point aiming for it as its just my daily. all help is welcome just dont flame me remember i am only new at this so dont explode if i say the odd stupid thing..

hey guys ive reciently decided to build a new motor for my 33 as the original motor is quite tired and had a hard life due to previous owner abuse anyway these are my plans which are subject to change but most are confirmed, im aiming for maximum torque and fast spool when i get my cams dialed in and motor tuned so all out hp isnt really what this build is about os giken adjustible cam gears (possible hks) gates timing belt tomei poncams type-A (256 duration 8.5m lift) autech forged rods cp forged pistons (possibly a diffrent brand due to known failure) N1 oil pump N1 water pump power fc s15 470cc injectors ported+polished head ballanced bottom end tomei rod bearings tomei head studs (possible arp) tomei main studs now for the questions, 1.am i able to upgrade the valve springs to tomei type A springs and still retain the hydralic lifters? 2.whats the maximum hp i can make before a oil drive collar is required for the n1 pump? i understand that they have been known to fail more often than desired but the car is my daily and doesnt get driven excessivly ever really, just the odd squirt here and there but thats all, never will be rev'd above 4,000>5,000rpm max so should i be reasonably safe from failure without it? 3.what sort of power figure should i be expecting? depending on what turbo i choose, either way im going to run a max of 1bar to keep things nice and reliable

lol typical, its usually always one of the basic things a engine requires which everyone seems to overlook.

absolute beast, such a nice car. i can say im purely jealous lol.

Spewin mate, you xtrail is a really nice ride too! i fckn hate commo drivers, about 99% of them are bogan low lives with ego's as big as a building. ive been tailed by countless commodores high beaming me and just generally being w@nkers. i try avoid engaging with them to save the trouble but i understand that sometimes it all becomes too much and you snap. just carry around a breaker bar around so you can play their game too

my 33 turbo has done 184,000km's, it whines a bit when im cruising off boost but still boosts nice. spose its luck of the draw lol. im replacing it with a R34 gt-t turbo soon so that should be a nice quiet change =P

lol! nice mate, i bet that makes a noticable diffrence! some how i think cops would be questioning where my interior has gone... =P "i spilt coffee on it officer so i pulled it out to be dry cleaned"

its quite funny lol.