Jay95R33

If it's got a V-Spec diff, my money is that that's what it is. I've got a mechanical locking diff (Cusco 2 way) and it does the same.

I'd bee looking at doing the engine management first. Something like a PFC or Microtech - do a search, there's heaps of info on them on these forums. You might be happy with what the stock turbo can do for you. J

I've got a R33 ECU and plug (the one that plugs into the ECU). The ECU has it's tacho output blown, but works fine other than that. What sort of project you doing Drop me a PM if your keen. J

Hmmm, not good To me it sounds like your air flow meter is playing silly buggers. You've got the same symptoms that other people have had when theirs have needed a good clean or replacement. Apart from that, it could be your O2 sensor if it's going through lots of fuel, but the O2 sensor doesn't usually make the idle go wierd like what your experancing..... Your right about the turbo, if it's stuffed (wheel spun off) it won't make any boost. I hope you get it sorted. J

Doc - Mine came with the car, but the other two I've helped install were both from UAS. I'm not sure who does their clutch work though

Yepp, Exhaust wheel has gone it's own way How much boost were you running and for how long? And which model Skyline do you have?

Yeah, I use Mobil 1. I think synth oil can take the heat from the turbo better. Also synth oil starts to break down at around 125-130 degrees, while the cheaper stuff breaks down at lower temps. That and the fact that the synth has better cold and hot lubricating properties. J

Do'h... Not good.. I think there are two basic ways you can go for the power upto 200rwkw - 240ish..... First is to go a full faced organic or ceramic clutch with a heavy presure plate, and second would be a 5 or 6 puck brass button clutch. The full faced heavy presure plate will bite a little quicker that a factory one, hold more power, and give your left leg the Arnie look The 5 or 6 puck clutch is very light (same as factory) and bites very quick and will hold more power. Me and James (you know the other James) ahve put two 6 puck clutches in his and a mates car and both are holding great. While mine has a heavy presure plate type (car came with it). If you don't mind a heavy peddal I'd go with the one I have, but it it would really pi$$ you off, then go with the 6 puck. I think James got his 6 puck for $500 exchange or something like that. If you want to compare the two, just let me know and we'll go for a spin out to James place so you can feel his, and feel mine - clutch that is !!!! J

Got a price for you. The 4 he got for the 3sgte were $1086, and that included all new rings and some sort of special pins as well. They were the stock size (not oversized). I hope that helps J

The 239 is a good price no-a-days. I say grab'm

I forget how much they were for the 4, but I'll ask my mate next time I see him. J

At Jax Tyres. But since getting them, I got another pair and the price has gone up I got the second pair for $230 each, only cause they quoted me wrong and use the old price. He said that they now sell them for $280 each

We just put a set of Wiseco's into a 3sgte. For the price (about half of the HKS ones) they are great. Wiseco have a good name in the drag racing field and a few places speak highly of them. Just as a comparaison, they were about half the weight of the standard pistons but will hold upto 700hp !!! I'm pretty sure they are made in QLD. J P.S. - it was cool to see that each piston had a serial no. stamped into them

eriktufa, The colour of leather can be changed by dying it. I looked into this cause I make up the leather gearstick and handbrake boots for the R33's. Check in the yellow pages. Apparently it works very well and is very durable cause it's dyed, not sprayed on. Just to give you an idea on price, I got quoted $850 to do two front seats !! Not cheap, but cheaper than getting new leather put on... About the clear front indicators. I have a pair of clear front indicators for a GTR (the ones that go in the front bar). I haven't put them in yet, and I may be willing to flog them off. Drop me a PM for your interested. J

I've got a reeeaaaally nice set of GTS-t seats that I'm sure you would love to put in your GTR

LEGEND !! Thanks J

Yepp, You read right. I need a wheel nut !! I found out today that one of the wheel nuts that I have is a different size and doesn't fit the cross bar I have to take the wheels off !! So I'm hoping that someone out there has a spare one from putting on some lock nuts. I think the standard size wheel nut for a R33 GTS-t is 17 or 19mm (pretty small). I could get one through Nissan, but they will have to order one in cause they aren't standard size Cheers Jayson

Boxhead - Ahhh, sorry, I didn't realise that QLD aren't set up yet I always thought you bananna benders were a bit slow j/k

SunCorp are moving away from insuring Imports. It may be their way of doing it?? I have just today changed my insurance over from SunCorp to Famous. My renewal from SunCorp this year was $1580, and through Famous I got it for $1200 with unlimited mods (as long as they are legal and you tell them about them). My advice would be to ring Famous and see what they can do for you. If your a finalcial member of SAU they will give you a reductionas well. Incentive to be a member of SAU hay J

See above post Running 5 inch wheels would be cool, slower, but cool :bahaha: It's totally different when your talking about a drag car that is made for the strip and that's all. For a road car that see's the track sometimes, dropping the diameter of your tyres a little will be benefical for acceleration. Like I said, I've tried it and noticed a difference, give it ago yourself and then you'll see what I'm getting at. Pass the beer nuts...........

Give it a go and try it for yourself. Changing the final drive ratio will affect your acceleration.

Jeff, I understand what your saying, it can make you slower if they are excessivly smaller. But, for say 10% smaller, it'll make a difference without any side effects (other than your speedo being out ). You've got to remember that Mario's beast of a car has been made for the strip, rev's to 10,000, has 1000hp, and he launches at about 8,000rpm and almost every part on the car has been changed for an after market modified part - lucky ba$tard . So in his car there's no use having a standard first gear. He's car also would reach it's absolute maximum speed just after he passes the finish line. Just as an example, if you take a R33 GTS-t with standard gearbox and stock final ratio, and run it down the 1/4 mile and say you hit 100mph at the end, you'd need to be in 4th gear to make it too 100mph. But if you change your final ratio by 10%, which makes you accelerate faster and you pass the finish line doing 110mph you'd still be in 4th gear, so your not doing any more gear changes than normal, your just accelerating faster. The absolute top speed of the car will be less, but when most are still limited too 180km/h, I don't think that's an issue That's a basic way of looking at it though. I remember in my old car when I changed from 50 series tyres to 55 in the same size (205's I think), and when I picked it up I thought they had stuffed the car cause it was noticably slower. Then when I got home and thought about it, it worked out that they were about 8-9% bigger in diameter, so it made sense (plus the fact it didn't have much power to start with )..... Anyway, this is getting totally off topic here..

Use smaller diameter tyres so you can accelerate faster :P

JOnJOn. I'm pretty sure that the stock RB20 head/block are non-interferance, so the valves won't hit the pistons. BUT if you've changed the stroke - which you would to get the 2.4 - it'd be different. Might be time to take the head off again

Tell me.. tell me..