nakuma

Hey guys, About 3 months ago I bought a power fc for my gtst and got it installed and tuned by trent at status. It made 192kw on 12psi with the stock turbo and usual fmic/pod/exhaust. On the way home I noticed it the knock warning coming on a few times under full load, so I took it back and he took a bit of timing out. After that all was sweet. A few days ago, I took the car to re customs to get a check up and ray replaced the plugs and said all was good. Problem is now, I'm getting the occasional knock warning again under full load. On the way to work today; in 3rd full load down the freeway the warning light flashed, I looked at the hand controller and it read 132. I figured it might have something to do with the AC on, so I turned it off and tried again. Now more often than not the warning light flashes under full load and reads anywhere from 50-70. I know this shouldn't be ignored; but I need some advise. Take more timing out? Try some split fires or z32 afm? Ignore it? I don't think it's pinging, but to be honest I've don't know what I'm listening for.

took the car into re customs today turns out the spark plugs were giving up $100 later she is perfect again thanks for your help guys

exact same thing happened to me too. try parking your car somewhere dry for awhile and look for the wet spot then trace the wetness up to the highest point and you'll find your leak

No one has seen this before? I'm really hoping it's just air in the cooling system...

Hi guys, After a few days of not running my car at all the radiator ran half dry. Not realising this I took her out for a spin only to notice about 10 minutes in that she was making a quick popping sound under full load and I noticed the engine light flashed (power fc knock warning). I quickly pulled out the powerfc hand controller to realise it was running 120 degrees and limped her home. My problem is, after searching the forum and google and filling the radiator back up; I'm not sure what the problem is now. It's still misfiring under full load only up in the high rpm which is causing the loss of high end power in that range. It's still knocking a lot higher than normal under the same conditions. But, that's all... No smoke, water temp is fine again. Coil packs? Or the dreaded cracked head gasket? I've got the car booked in for a look at RE Customs on Wednesday, but I'd like to know what is going on before I'm surprised with a possible head gasket replacement. I've checked the oil cap, dip stick for a milky look of the oil and radiator for surging water or oil in the water. One thing I did notice though, the water in the radiator seemed to be frothy after 5 minutes while warming up, then ok again after a test drive. I've attached a few pictures so show you what I mean. Any help at all will be appreciated.

Here is what I mean It's metal, just part of the body

I mean my car never had side skirts, so I bought some. The car they came off had about 10 of so little slots for the clips on the back of the skirt. Mine doesn't because it's never been fitted with skirts.

Hi guys, Newbie question here, but as I've never fitted any body work to a car before I thought I'd ask you guys for advice before I took it to a shop. I've recently purchased two skirts and the nismo lip for series 2 r33. Best part about it is the colour already matches mine which is standard silver. The question is; because my car doesn't have those little clip holes where the skirt mounts, what's the best way to put them on so they very secure. I've heard double sided tape works well or that I need to drill holes. I'm hoping there is an option which is more secure than the first and less dramatic than the second. Or do I need to find some mounting brakets? Same deal with the lip; do I need to drill holes in the front spoiler to bolt it to the lip? If I do, I'm guessing it would be best to remove it first before joining them together. Cheers, Shane

I'll take your suspension! Where are you located?

PM sent regarding skirts and lip. Cash ready, in SE suburbs too

Sorry to bring up an old post, but just for anyone else having the same problem; it was just a hose clamp that was too big for the intercooler pipe. Refitted the pipes, smaller clamp and hasn't popped off again since.

are these coilovers good for street use?

hey bryce, did you ever fit those skirts? still for sale?

Preferably somewhere in vic so I can pay cash, but not limited to just this area. Money ready now. Negotiable on price.

skirts gone? does the power fc come with the hand controller?

langwarrin? i haven't seen any other r33s here

Hey guys, I'm after a pair of undamaged silver side skirts. The same type that came standard on a lot of the r33s. I think they are called Type-m Can pickup and pay cash in Melbourne. Same as the ones as on this car http://www.autoline.com.au/vehicle/1271671.html Cheers

NYTSKY, very nice looking ride! Where did you get those taillights from?

intercooler pipe was split

thanks alot guys! piping just after the cooler was split! replaced and running perfect again i owe you guys a beer (;

As in radiator pipes? I should also mention, the car has a front mounted intercooler and a pod air filter in its own little box. Which is fairly common apparently.

Hey guys, I bought this car from a member about a month ago, and up until yesterday it ran perfectly fine. I noticed the first problem yesterday when I drove it in the morning, just a single loss of all power for about 1/4 of a second. It didn't do it again, so I figured it wasn't anything bad. Then today, after filling it with a full tank of BP Ultimate, I drove it about 10km to a new self car wash. I washed only the body (bonnet down) then coming home down the free way I noticed that between 2.5k - 3.5k revs the power was alot less than normal. About 5km from home it started spluttering and misfiring and blowing black smoke. I pulled over, let it cool and tried driving it again. This time it would drive like normal at low rpm when there was about -0.5bar of boost, but as soon as I accelerated a little more and the turbo started to spool the power would cut out and it would run very sluggish again. I limped the car to just around the corner from my house and it wouldn't even pull itself with the engine idling. The car would rev fine (but surge while idling) in neutral or with the clutch in, but as soon as I engaged the cluth and began to rev, the car would clonk out. The problem would temporary subside when car was left to cool for 30 mins but it would still run very rough, though I only drove it around my property, so I didn't just a chance to test the engine under boost. I've read similar problems on here and thought it could be one or more of many things: Bad fuel, Bad AFM, Bad o2 sensor (wouldn't cause problems this bad would it?) Some gasket or seal? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you

saw black s2 33 ytry4 leaving frankston power centre

anyone know where to buy the little assembly that LED goes in? i pulled out the AC unit to find I only have one ><

Hey all, I decided to replace the blown globe behind the AC unit for LEDs only to realise it and the socket was missing! If anyone could point me in the direction to purchase one, or has a spare one for sale, it would be greatly appreciated. I went to a nissan dealership, but they said it would cost more than $30. The thing I'm after is the thing that the globe sits in: