lowbro

I have a pair of CAM/Rocker Covers professionally painted in Bayside Blue to suit RB25DE/T NEO6 Engine Heads (R34 GT, GTT or engine conversion etc) Cam covers were stripped, bathed/cleaned and professionally painted. They are in excellent condition. I had them on the RB25DET NEO engine for 1 month and ended up fitting Chrome Rockers instead, they did not see many km's of use at all as the car is a project and rarely ever driven. Will sell the pair for $225.00 ovno Also set of 6 SuperSpark Coils, purchased, fitted and not used, Will sell for $350.00 ovno in original packaging with warranty! Local pickup preferred (Brisbane), but will post Australia wide at buyer's expense.

I have for sale a full set of factory RB25DE/T NEO coil packs, pulled at 60k They are in perfect working order if anyone needs some spares $150.00 They are located in Brisbane

I have a set of SuperSparks if you are still interested, they are as NEW.

Still need the radiator hoses, top & bottom?

Hi All, Looking for a good condition R34 GTT Front Air Conditioning Unit that sits in front of the radiator, preferably in Brisbane for collection.

Call Nissan and order in the Sensors, I got my TPS for $370 & the TMS for $190 I would not suggest buying the sensors second hand mate, but the rest should be fine.

Anyone interested in purchasing a full set of unused/new SuperSparks Coil Packs x 6 with receipt and warranty still in packaging? Part number: SSCP-RB3 - See website http://www.superspark.com.au/productnissan.htm For models: Nissan Nissan Skyline R34 RB25DE Nissan Skyline R34 RB25DET Nissan Stagea C34 RB25DE Late 97 Nissan Stagea C34 RB25DET Late 98 I only ask $370.00 and I will pay the postage 'Australia Wide Only' RRP $499.00 I purchased these, went to install them and they were the wrong item/part, so they have not been used.

Touch wood, but mine have been excellent so far... I feel for your mate though, that sucks! Hope he has warranty still.

I purchased BC coil-overs with 30 settings for dampening for my R34 N/A, I set them to L6 for dampening and they have been really good for the price $1299.00 There is one downfall having coil-overs that are not configured for street use though, but if you never go up any steep gradients then you will be fine. A good starting point with suspension would be to upgrade your sways bars to something a bit more beefier (fairly cheap these days), and you will definitely need to upgrade your rubber bushes all round if installing lowered suspension, they make all the difference in the end.

In saying that I have a 2 x full sets of OEM coils for the R34 GTT that have only travelled 65000km's and are in perfect working order for purchase? PM - If you are interested in talking more

If your plugs were that old, and it depends how many km's your OEM coil packs have done, I would suggest if you can afford it to replace all 6 x Coil Packs to compliment your new plugs with after market ones (Splitfire, Superspark etc) to save yourself any headaches in the long run. Superspark's are an excellent choice for the price range.

Well I am now down to just having to resolve CODE 46, TMS for R34 GTT, I have replaced and set TPS correctly, rewired loom, cleaned all connections points, redone all earth points what a job! Also replaced all fuses throughout car. CODE 17 is cleared after getting my breaks overhauled, machined and all pads replaced with BENDIX from JustJap, must have been a sensor thing. Now I just have a bad circuit in Throttle Motor Sensor CODE 46, $190.00 to replace OEM unit so WTH! I am now very happy with the results, my car is going superbly. PHEW some work I have performed on this car, I feel like an R34 troubleshooting expert now!

JustJap.com have a return flow type intercooler that is bolt on for the R34 GTT, I am looking to install one of thes. http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=1&featured This would ultimately be the best/no cut up your car install for the money!

For Sale > R34 Skyline 25GT 4door N/A cruiser with torque & power! - Excellent condition inside and out, with original mats in excellent condition - Mauve silver in colour (this is a really nice colour and shows up the car) - New coil-over suspension (30 point dampening system) - Custom Catback 2.5" mild steel, mendrel bend exhaust system with highflow cat converter (3mths old) - Last service @ 104,000km's * 6 x New superspark coils installed * 6 x new IRD plugs installed * New rocker cover seals (inlet + exhaust) installed * Cooling system flush and re-fill * Only the best oils and genuine Nissan parts from Highway Nissan have been used - Good 85% 225/50/15 tyres on standard R34 RIMS in excellent condition - K&N Apollo Cold Air Intake (sheilded air intake) - Mongoose A80S Alarm System fitted with 3 point engine immobilisation - Smoked side and front bar indicator lights fitted She gets the looks and goes very well and sounds great! *Exhaust was done by Trevor at CES Racing Systems @ Meadowbrook *Lowering was professionally installed thanks to Southside Suspension KM's 106,000 Asking Price $13k + Geniune reason for the sale: I now have a Turbo R34 4dr project which is now up and running and can't afford both cars. All serious offers over $13k will be considered, she needs to go to a good home. 0435029573 - Brisbane

If still interested, I have a N/A R34 4dr for sale in Brisbane with A+ mods

Sent txt to you

Hey Huddy, I also have code 26 along with TPS problems and a high cold start idle in another topic with my R34 NEO6 which is driving me nuts. I don't want to have to start opening up the loom and start performing circuit tests on everything, and I believe I have high voltage on the BS also. But when you say it was the connector (Boost Sensor Connector Plug?), did you clean the contact pins with contact cleaner and this resolved your closed/open circuit issue or did you do something else?

Anyone got any ideas?? I have searched the internet, checked the R34 workshop manual, it appears these codes do not exist??

Hi All, Anyone out there got the guts on what these CODES are that have been thrown up on DATASCAN 1.5 on my R34 GTT 1999? CODE 16 CODE 17 CODE 46 As far as I can tell these codes do not exist??? I also have CODE 43: THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT - I am coming to grips with having to replace this expensive part, as it is not testing very well and the wirelooms are ripped

Hey mate, just to clarify this is happening on my R34 GTT 1999, good to hear from another fellow KIWI. Is the 46 code relating to the other sensor opposite the TPS on the TB of the NEO6?

Hmm i have code 17 & 46 also, I think these are both fuel injection circut/grounding problems? I really cannot find a definitive answer on these fault codes for the rb25det neo 6 engine, anyone out there know?? Thanks

Ah forgot to mention that when checking TPS using the white wire with Ignition ON/Engine OFF on RB25DET NEO, I do not seem to get a good reading, my power voltage it fine at 5V so I know at least it is has power to work, but getting a reading on my multimeter is sooo hard to get the magic .045v, it really does not matter if I move the TPS clock or anti as the voltage really does not change that much .3 -.4, perhaps I am not using the correct setting to get a reading on the meter, although I have tried all settings? Still does not explain however why when the TPS is disconneted and idle goes to normal that when a gear is engaged the revs go straight back to 2000rpm, I will get some gasket goo today and clean IAC unit while I am at it. I still reckon there is a bad earth hanging somewhere, any ideas guys??

As I have 2 x r34's, I have not driven the turbo one for about a week now, every night after work thought I have been checking the car for the problem and testing, resetting the TPS voltage which I still do not think is giving me any decent readings. (not sure how my multimeter is to read between .045 & 5 I decided to start her up and let her warm for a drive, I have to unplug the TPS switch for the idle to drop down to normal (could be a TPS replacement now), I took her for a good run and she is driving very nicely until I stop and put in gear, the same thing happens the car revs high and in neutral it is fine. Just as I was putting her back in the garage, I was halfway to backing in (ramp is on a slope) and it stopped reving at high when in gear, I sat for about 2 mins testing this (in and out of gear and it appeared fixed) as soon as I got on the flat when inside the garage it started again. I am thinking there must be some cable not earthingn now that is causing this, casue when on that angle it the problem completely went away. I gather there are many earths on this vehicle, but where to start???? It must be hanging lose somewhere.

Hey mate, Yeah there seems to be a lot of threads on this one, no definite 'this is how you fix that exact problem', so I have to try all methods I guess, I just read a post where a guy had the same type issue, it was his ECU connector was not plugged in properly, if that is all it is whoot! easy fix, although I have never been in there to disrupt anything yet! I for the first time connected to the car last night using 'OBD Data Scan full version', very interesting read outs, everything appears ok voltage wise, could be an issue with neutral swtich?, cyclinder 1 has a really bad result when tested in a 6 cyl test. Did an ECU reset and cleared all codes! I received fault codes 17? and 43 (boost sensor) so all in all that is okay until I figure out what is wrong with the boost sensor?? I need to set my TPS correctly with a multimeter this may also be wrong, but looking forward to cleaning the IAC as soon as I get the gasket or goo and time this weekend. I must search the car again for more vacuum leaks, as I can still hear a very slight hissing noise around the front plenum area, all hoses are new now, all are fixed tight, so maybe a gasket leak from the plenum is adding to the whole equation/problem or a dodgy injector? Ahh cars eh!

When the car is at idle (cold or at operating temp) and you put it in gear the revs jump immediately to 2000rpm, if you keep the clutch engaged and take it out of gear this does not happen, only when you put it in gear, any gear? This problem is driving me nuts, I have checked for vacuum leaks, installed new hoses, new rubber plug for inlet rocker cover etc etc. Yet to clean IAC unit, waiting for gasket. Standard COILS, NGK Ir's 1.1mm (fairly new), BLitz BOV, pretty stock std setup. I have read about a neutral switch problem but this is the opposite I believe, it is only when in gear. I still have a high cold start idle too at 2000rpm. Please HELP!!