Galois

Hang on, do you mean you're running a 1 bar actuator? On a stock turbo? Do you have a boost controller? I'm guessing ecu is stock? One bar is pretty high for a stock turbo, it'll eventually cause the ceramic turbine wheel to delaminate under high heat and rpm. If it's running 1 bar with no boost controller, it could be a leak in the factory boost controller lines. If the plugs are too cold they foul as incomplete combustion material to land and stick to the plugs, if they're too hot they melt and die lol.

Maybe too cold, 5 is okay for completely stock, 6 is good with some extra boost

Kudos can get you an aftermarket one for r32's and r33's for ~$70, but you have to go genuine nissan for the r34. They're available from any nissan dealer for round ~$200.

Also you could go yellow jacket coilpacks as well, they're a good bit cheaper and come with a 2 year warranty.

Yeah changing spark plugs is the first step, and regapping them is the second. You might want to think about just going coppers mate, a lot of people here find platinums and iridiums don't last long enough to make the price worth it, and MANY have found they don't last much longer than coppers, if at all. I had a mate whose soarer used up iridiums in 3000km... Glad the issue's fixed, misfires suck

holy sh!t u'd need to to change the oil filter

Also the pao and ester (group's 4 and 5) don't break down as quickly as a mineral oil due to the impurities in the mineral oil. Keep in mind that mineral oils are really heavily processed before being put on the shelf, and that mineral oils certainly have their uses for worn old engines etc...

Coilpacks do have a used by date for skylines, but you could try changing the plugs, go either ngk bcp6res-11's, bcp6res, bkr6es-11, bkr6es or bosch plat fr7dp's or fr7dpx (-11 means 1.1mm gapped, no "-11" means 0.8mm, and the x means 1.1 gapped, no "x" is 0.8 gapped). The ngk's can be had for round $30, the bosch plats are about $40, they both last similarly as long though (round 5000km). Don't bother spending much money on iridiums or plats (ngk plat's are like $17 each), some people find they last a few tens of thousand kms, but the vast majority don't.

I have to disagree about nankangs, i have 18"/235's on the front and 18"/265's on the back and the rears lose traction in first in the dry and in the wet it's horrific. I'll be going with kumho's next, bit more pricy but I drive regularly from syd to newcastle, and when the rain's pouring you want to be stable at 110km/h. Not to mention when it's raining EVERYTHING accelerates quicker up hill from the lights. Nankangs are known all over these forums for being pretty terrible. I think part of my problem is the tyre's are so wide and crap that there is no chance of the water being moved from the inside of the tyres. Gotta say though, they're much better than the sh!t the previous owner put on the car...

If you disconnect the factory boost controller you'll be able to determine the boost pressure the car goes to based only on the actuator. Maddowse, did you ever find the source of your high boost? I commented my solution in your thread ages ago, it's either a tiny leak that I couldn't find in the line from the factory boost controller, or the controller has been modified.

If you're referring to the rich and retard limp mode the engine goes into some times then the temps are lower because the fuel mix is richer. But if you're strictly talking about timing, i doubt it'd make much difference. The fuel is ignited slightly earlier in the piston cycle with advanced timing so the explosion has slightly longer to combust which means slightly more heat will go into the engine. Also having the explosion in a smaller space (the point of advancing timing) will mean the air-fuel mix will be more compressed and transfer the heat better to the metal, and the explosion will be more violent due to the small space (high pressure) and take less time adding to the heating of the engine. But giving the small changes usually made in changing timing it probably wouldn't make much difference. I can't imagine any of these would play anywhere near as much of a role in engine temperature as air fuel ratios though.

How much you after mate? Auto/manual? When did it have the last 100k km service? I'm selling my r34 gtt if you're interested http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/19...Gt-t340690.html

btw, im not a smoker, neither was the previous owner

Still for sale guys, price is negotiable

Would it cope with the high load over a period of time when towing? If a v8 falcodore would I'd go that way just for the sound

lol, i knew that'd happen. Are you guys just having fun or is it really that bad a problem?

That's such a good story, and awesome collection too mate!

Cheers for the replies guys. Thoughts on a TT 300zx? An old family friend is always telling me to get one, he imported his almost a decade ago...

That'd be awesome birds, I'm sure a lot of us, esp the sougi fans, will be glad to get ur feedback on it

mx6's are fun and under that price, get one with a nice kit and they look mad, like an awesome porsche

Price mate? And some pics?

if nisgtr isn't i might be, depending parts, mods and price

hey mate, what sort of power are you putting out? got any interior pics?

hello mr bumpity bump

$65 for a grade III/IV mix is pretty expensive, given that there are similar oils for a lot less, including m5000 for ~$30 per 5L bottle (actually the m5000 is a group III/V mix so it's actually higher quality oil. It also has heaps of detergents and good stuffs mixed in just like s6000).