GTSBoy
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Posts posted by GTSBoy
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You are wrong. That's just Whiteline going along with the incorrect slanguage of the sheeple userbase.
They are only correctly known as anti-roll bars.
They are only incorrectly known as swaybars.
They do do anything to prevent "sway".
The swaybars that are fitted to trailler hitches do prevent sway. In the trailer. And they do not look like anti-roll bars.
So, take your incorrect infopinion away.
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Two layers of race tape on the brake duct. One piece of split firesleeve, silicone hose or something similar (and 2x cable ties) on the brake hose.
Boost off into the sunset and stop caring about it. Until the inspection 6 months later, that is.
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Swaybars go on trailers.
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Yeah, I presumed that the pic was of some other car, because of the F. Ikeya arms.
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I'm going to have to call shenanigans on the 6000 miles. There haven't been any R34s with 10000km on the ODO since the mid 2000s. Photos of the pedal rubbers, seats, carpets, etc required to even consider the possibility. At that many miles the underside should look almost completely new.
The movement of the gear stick is likely to be 100% normal. As Duncan said, the differences from an auto may be surprising. It is a mechanical thing, not an electro-hydraulic isolation device.
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Coilovers aren't even the first step.
Bushes, subframe position and alignment, HICAS elimination, adjustable upper arms and traction arms in order to dial out understeer. All these things need/deserve attention first.
ARBs (There's no such thing as a swaybar. Please, everybody, stop calling them that) are useful if you want to limit spring stiffness. Otherwise you can control body roll with springs.
Spring and damper rates are a function of road surface, speed and usage. There is no solution that works for all cases.
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3 hours ago, Dylancskyline said:
when I GO to crank nothing I can hear the starter winning over
Define "nothing". Is the starter spinning but not the engine? Engine turning but not firing?
If the engine is turning but not firing, then you are missing either fuel or spark. You need to find whichever has gone missing.
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11 minutes ago, Predator1 said:
Doesn't really do any good, especially without billet gears. The oem pump is crap. If it doesn't break, the screws holding the backing plate will come loose.
I think he's just happy that the crank doesn't have to come out of the engine in order to have a good (read reliable) oil pump.
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Meh, just saw the Nissan badge on the plenum on the thumbnail and presumed it wasn't as nasty a fake up as the paintjob.
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1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:
by far the best of the easy options
Except for the aero/speedflow adapter option, which is essentially the same thing without the bending and flaring.
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5 hours ago, R32.RB said:
so guys is this an rb20 or rb25
There is absolutely no way to tell. What we can tell you is that it is an RB. It has a single, low mounted turbo, so it would seem likely that it is an R20 or 25, but it has RB26 inlet side and valve covers. As it is clearly a frankenstein, it could be absolutely anything. It is unlikely to be good, unless the person responsible for the painting was not also responsible for the engine.
5 hours ago, R32.RB said:and what is this bracket called? Can it be fixed thanks
That bracket is not a bracket and it is not broken. It is the top end of the suspension upright, connected to the outer end of the front upper control arm. It is your suspension. Take the wheel off and look at it.
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Hot plugs not being a good idea in a massively boosted engine?
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Put some more sleeve/hose over the top of the brake line for protection and let it rub?
Make a plastic or metal nozzle to provide the last little bit of length of duct. The nozzle made to clear the brake line, the cooling air hose shortened to keep it away from the brake line?
Make a short hard line to move the end of the brake hose away? (by far the best of the easy options).
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I'm not the sort of person to click on a random link to something called files.fm/nrn9something something somehting
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That is way too loose. What is the state of the tensioner?
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Congrats. Got your asking?
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1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
I don't understand how a heavier dyno will make less power
I expect it's just slang from somewhere for a low reading dyno.
Probably originates in the US where the inertia dyno is king and some actually might be "heavier" than others.
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All of the above posts have valid points!
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43 minutes ago, TheOrangeSkittle said:
I do understand the engine may just be f**ked from running with a boost leak though.
I would absolutely be starting with this idea over all other possibilities.
It sounds f**ked.
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What car? What ECU?
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Just now, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
I got better economy after fitting a bigger turbo (when purely highway driving, Sydney to Forster, got down to ~8.3L/100KM), as it takes more throttle and RPM to get on boost.
And also, as small as the effect may be, the larger exhaust side places a lower restriction on the exhaust flow, even when off boost. When my bigger turbo went on you could hear the difference in the exhaust note at cruise (almost everywhere actually) and fuel consumption went down a little bit.
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7 hours ago, hypergear said:
I hate to interrupt, there are enough internet rumors. I do build every single CORE in house that leaves my workshop including the one that you are using, as well as engineering work done on your turbo housings. Reason been is I got shafted badly by a turbo joint 18 years ago when the business first started. I since trusted no one when comes to selling anything under my name, or I just don't touch them at all.
Oops. Sorry mate.
It is both excellent to hear and also surprising though. The amount of work required to (effectively manually, not on a production line) build a core vs your low retail price point is why I presumed that you were buying cores.
But let's also be clear about what is meant by "build". At your price point I can't see you making cores from billet on a mill, even if CNC, or doing all the machine work on a rough casting. Surely the lumps of metal are sourced more or less ready to go from an Asian supplier, right? Maybe the same with shafts. I mean, you could turn shafts up yourself, but it's pretty slow going for items that are all essentially bulk order producable.
I was always perfectly willing to believe that you assemble your wheels to shafts, fit up bearings and do all the balancing. I actually expected that you would have been doing all that even if the core did arrive from a supplier with most of that pre-assembled.
Nevertheless, please accept my apology.
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7 minutes ago, LjB123 said:
My dash lights like the ABS, AIR BAG, HICAS, etc that come on when you turn accessories on as well as the climate control unit stay on when the ignition is off and key is taken out.
No, that should not happen.
As to what has happened....it's anyone's guess.
Rear suspension upgrades
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
don't do.
Fricken typos. Make me look like the sheeple.