GTSBoy

I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.

Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.

Starting on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hang some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.

Uses the factory sensors? Which are currently the problem?

My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.

Make sure you use the spherical bushes** on the lower arms, ifyou do that. ** at least, if not the whole replacement lower arm.

The tap for coolant flow control will be stuck open. It's not just the air door motor that dies.

I said Garrett style. Not Garrett genuine. And something in the G30 550 range is what you want. Not those pokey little old fashioned T28 sized things. The intake ports in the head are small. There is little benefit in fattening up the runners and leaving ths actual ports small. Just run what you've got. And on the subject of Nistune vs Haltech etc..... You know you can control the transmission with decent standalone ECUs these days, right? No need to keep any of that old Nissan bullshit. Don't get me wrong - I use Nistune on my Neo. But it is a DET, so the number of bodges and workarounds I had to do to make it work in a chassis without ABS, TCS, etc, is quite small compared to the herniated arsehole you will have trying to make it work on a motor that doesn't have some of the things that the turbo ECU wants to see. Just easier to bite the bullet and go aftermarket outright.

Hmm. Only when the f**king thing is actually working. Still can't find the leak. And that's with dye being put in the last 3 times!

And what is the significance of the Italian word for "reserved"? AFAIK, it means nothing WRT GTRs.

There's no way that we can tell what they were for because they are not stock. Somebody had something installed that needed an earth and took it 98% out.

Yuh, if it's 45°C outside, my car is driving in it.

I like their veal scallopini.

No. The castings are all the same. As you have the inlet off, simply measure the diameter of the inlet ports and compare with the freely available on the net sizes of turbo and NA. The NA ones are small.

Yeah you can. Cable tie the gauge to a windscreen wiper, or run it into the car and hold it with one hand, or have the neighbour's kid run alongside and tell you what it says.

I've never understood why this bothers people. Surely you'd be looking at a T3 flanged Garrett style thing, rather than a TD? You're unlikely to push a +T hard enough to need that much fuel. If you're not starting with most of the things you need to do that (ie, the bloody ECU!), you're better off just going Haltech/Link. You wil hate life a lot less. No. Just no. Just turbo it as is.

Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.

So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around without a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.

Yeah - that's not true. Larger turbos flow more at the same boost. By definition. I've always found it funny when the claim of same flow same power because same boost is made. The turbine is larger, therefore will put up a lower restriction to flow at any given flow, cf the stock one. Hence, you need less boost to make the same flow through the whole system. Hence, when you have the same boost as before, you must have more flow. -5s are a pretty decent bit bigger than stock.

Only if you do not You will not be able to drive it with any serious load without risk of it pinging, which will either slowly or rapidly kill it, depending on how bad it is.

I'm not sure if it will bolt up, but.... I'm reasonably sure that the ID of the runners is somewhat smaller on the NAs. So it probably wouldn't be a good match at the flange where the top and bottom meet. So that would be a reason to not do it. And the skinny runners would be the bit you're keeping, which would be a reason to no do it. You'd want the big runners if you were doing any work to swap stuff. Why not just use what you've got, like nearly everyone else who has +T'd an NA? You don't need or want the TCS throttle or other stuff that is specifically DET inlet/crossover.

Something's broken.

Plan B? Get someone to machine up a metal bush/collar/whatever it needs to be to replace the rubber? I haven't had a close look at that part recently to have a proper feel for whether that's possible. But it might be easy.

Yeah, that's f**ked.

I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.