GTSBoy

Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.

No, you cannot perma-bend hose once it is already made.

If it doesn't have a bunch of funky bends, then yes, you can just use straight hose.

There are other crowds doing 25Neo conversion kits.

Not familiar with that car at all....but that code is for the traction control. Does it have a 2nd throttle in series with the first, like the R34 Neos do, to make the traction control happen?

Well, in that case it is either completely normal accel enrichment, or it is completely abnormal accel enrichment, caused by a problem that we will be unlikely to be able to guess at this distance, but which will turn out to be f**king weird.

That's it. Too rich for me. I'm out. If it does start to sell in pieces, I'll probably register an interest in the diff & axles, gearbox & tailshaft, and maybe the brakes.

Is it oil smoke or fuel smoke? They smell different.

I only use rubber also. I have an intense distrust of silicone for coolant.

Clamp meter will probably tell you lies. PWM DC looks a bit like AC (because the voltage is going up and down rapidly), but it is not AC because the voltage never goes negative and the current never reverses direction. But because it looks like AC, and it is happening at high frequency, at can cause wierd reactive effects. Just be warned that you might learn things that are....confusing. Because they aren't necessarily real.

Vcam is, by definition, a good thing. The reason the 25Neo is a better engine than the 26 is the VCT.

[knuckle to corner of eye] Awww. [/knuckle to corner of eye]

My wife says we have a spare set.

PWM quite literally just chops the ful 12V voltage on and off at whatever duty cycle you're running it at. If you're running it 100%, then it is on full voltage all the time, same as if there was no PWM. If you run it at 50% duty cycle, it is only seeing the full 12V half of the time. This is broadly equivalent to running it at 6V. But the crucial difference is that motors (and a lot of other loads) don't like being powered at low volts. They will either fail to start rotating, or draw a shit ton of current, or other undesirable things. But if you give them the full volts, and then a short period of no volts, and then some more full volts, then the times when they are seeing power they are seeing all the voltage, and they are happy. But you get the performance out of them as if they were only seeing that fraction of the full voltage. It is not really easy to answer your question about what flow you will get out of it at 50% duty cycle. I can tell you that it is not as simple as you think. For a start, that 460 L/h pump is not going to flow 460 when you're on boost. When you're on boost you will be somewhere down the sloping part of that red line. If you have 15 psi of boost, then the pump can only deliver about 95 gal/h, which is <380L/h. So your simple 50% on 460 = 230 wasn't going to work anyway. But also, it won't deliver 50% of 380 either, because when you devolt or PWM trim th epower being fed to the pump, it is not able to deliver flow or pressure in the same way. 50% duty cycle will probably produce <50% of the full voltage flow. The way to find out what duty cycle you need to run it at at low load (ie, at idle) is to idle it and turn the DC down until you start to lose fuel pressure, then turn it back up above that with some extra for safety. And then you do the same thing at full load, in case it doesn't need anywhere near 100% DC. And if you're careful/cautious/prudent, you will also do it at a couple of loads in between so you can shape the DC map against load. It might not be linear between the two end points.

Yes, multi relays needed, and possibly a diode. I'm not actually going to think about it though.

I'll match that and include 3 out of 4 of the speakers in a set of Alpine front splits.

Yes, the speed sensors are quite different between NA and turbo. Completely different waveform. I'm surprised it's picking up any pulses at all if it is the wrong one. As to the original problem... "the instrument cluster went out". What does that mean? What died and how? Is there any hope that you could transplant teh speedo head from that into the new one?

It is definitely to space it out and away for clearance during compression, and possibly for spring clearance to upper arm. That latter would only be true for springs that are same-ish diameter to stockers, and so that probably doesn't apply to Teins or most other coilovers.

All RB gearbags, especially the big turbo box, have rollover noise. Mine certainly does. Always has. Sometimes is worse than others - no particular idea why, although it is probably temperature related. I have smurf jizz in mine and have had to have it in there from the first day the box went into teh car. It simply would not select gears with the engine on, on day one, with normal oil in there. And so, the blue stuff has probably ruined almost everything synchro related in the box. But it has taken 12 or 13 years to get to the point where I simply must replace the box. It has become increasingly baulky of late, which might be symptomatic of the way I've been driving it, as much as anything. I shall have to make some corrections when teh new box goes in. Input shaft bearing noise will decrease with clutch pedal pressed because the drive is removed. But yes, more often than not noises that work like that are associated with the throwout. It won't matter either way, new box will mean this one can be relegated to the parts pile.

There's more than one way to skin that cat, and most of the sump Maatouks have done will be GTR sumps. They are HUGE in GTR drag racing here.

You don't have to be bored driving a Camry. Not based on the way that a couple of f**king Ubereats/Didi/othersortofmethaddlednightshiftattheservicestationrecentimmmigrants were piloting them on the way to work this morning. f**k me dead!

FWIW, the Bride reps are really nice to sit in. The only complaint I have, other than the tear in my bolster, is that the velcro used to hold the backrest cushion in place, up under the headrest, is a little obvious and intrusive and could probably be done better. I don't know if that is a "feature" on the genuine ones also though. I haven't looked at a genuine one like the ones I have, only some of the older models. The other thing is, even though I bought the CF ones, I think the CF is really just decorative, over the top of the same FG as the normal seats. And so they really aren't light. Between the solidly built CF/FG seat, the steel frame in the recliner mechanism, and the solid-arse seat rail, they are probably heavier than even the stock seat. They are a serious lift to get in and out of the car.

Yes, and so the barest minimum power target is the one that makes the most sense. Massive power is fun, but you can only use it for 1.5s at a time, and only every now and then. Medium power levels allow you to enjoy the car far more often and for longer. 500 engine HP is just below 300 rwkW which is about the maximum that is sensible for any street car really. And for a 2.6L six, it will still leave you with a decent boost response and some sort of linearity of power delivery. As you get up towards 400rwkW the onset of power tends to be increasingly like a cliff and you need drag radials to keep the ground in proper contact with the car, and.... it's just not a car for driving around any more.

Good. I was worried we were still talking about the block. Yes, larger baffled sump is a good idea. Do not touch the pump unless you're going on a whole build saga. Read the oil control thread on here - at least the last 100 pages or so. We drew some reasonable things together in there. The short version is that venting the sump is more important than almost anything else you do.

Perhaps just get a proper mechanic who is good with Nissan autos (they were more or less the same across all the RWD, FWD, 4WD cars at that time, even if they were actually different boxes) to give it a good going over. He might be able to plug in a Consult or other scan tool and find out if it's got some fault codes. Otherwise, my approach to the problem if not liking the way the auto was workign behind my RB20 turbo, was to drop it on the workshop floor and put in the manual box that it really needed. That solved all the auto problems.