GTSBoy

That's it. Too rich for me. I'm out. If it does start to sell in pieces, I'll probably register an interest in the diff & axles, gearbox & tailshaft, and maybe the brakes.

Is it oil smoke or fuel smoke? They smell different.

I only use rubber also. I have an intense distrust of silicone for coolant.

Clamp meter will probably tell you lies. PWM DC looks a bit like AC (because the voltage is going up and down rapidly), but it is not AC because the voltage never goes negative and the current never reverses direction. But because it looks like AC, and it is happening at high frequency, at can cause wierd reactive effects. Just be warned that you might learn things that are....confusing. Because they aren't necessarily real.

Vcam is, by definition, a good thing. The reason the 25Neo is a better engine than the 26 is the VCT.

[knuckle to corner of eye] Awww. [/knuckle to corner of eye]

My wife says we have a spare set.

PWM quite literally just chops the ful 12V voltage on and off at whatever duty cycle you're running it at. If you're running it 100%, then it is on full voltage all the time, same as if there was no PWM. If you run it at 50% duty cycle, it is only seeing the full 12V half of the time. This is broadly equivalent to running it at 6V. But the crucial difference is that motors (and a lot of other loads) don't like being powered at low volts. They will either fail to start rotating, or draw a shit ton of current, or other undesirable things. But if you give them the full volts, and then a short period of no volts, and then some more full volts, then the times when they are seeing power they are seeing all the voltage, and they are happy. But you get the performance out of them as if they were only seeing that fraction of the full voltage. It is not really easy to answer your question about what flow you will get out of it at 50% duty cycle. I can tell you that it is not as simple as you think. For a start, that 460 L/h pump is not going to flow 460 when you're on boost. When you're on boost you will be somewhere down the sloping part of that red line. If you have 15 psi of boost, then the pump can only deliver about 95 gal/h, which is <380L/h. So your simple 50% on 460 = 230 wasn't going to work anyway. But also, it won't deliver 50% of 380 either, because when you devolt or PWM trim th epower being fed to the pump, it is not able to deliver flow or pressure in the same way. 50% duty cycle will probably produce <50% of the full voltage flow. The way to find out what duty cycle you need to run it at at low load (ie, at idle) is to idle it and turn the DC down until you start to lose fuel pressure, then turn it back up above that with some extra for safety. And then you do the same thing at full load, in case it doesn't need anywhere near 100% DC. And if you're careful/cautious/prudent, you will also do it at a couple of loads in between so you can shape the DC map against load. It might not be linear between the two end points.

Yes, multi relays needed, and possibly a diode. I'm not actually going to think about it though.

I'll match that and include 3 out of 4 of the speakers in a set of Alpine front splits.

Yes, the speed sensors are quite different between NA and turbo. Completely different waveform. I'm surprised it's picking up any pulses at all if it is the wrong one. As to the original problem... "the instrument cluster went out". What does that mean? What died and how? Is there any hope that you could transplant teh speedo head from that into the new one?

It is definitely to space it out and away for clearance during compression, and possibly for spring clearance to upper arm. That latter would only be true for springs that are same-ish diameter to stockers, and so that probably doesn't apply to Teins or most other coilovers.

All RB gearbags, especially the big turbo box, have rollover noise. Mine certainly does. Always has. Sometimes is worse than others - no particular idea why, although it is probably temperature related. I have smurf jizz in mine and have had to have it in there from the first day the box went into teh car. It simply would not select gears with the engine on, on day one, with normal oil in there. And so, the blue stuff has probably ruined almost everything synchro related in the box. But it has taken 12 or 13 years to get to the point where I simply must replace the box. It has become increasingly baulky of late, which might be symptomatic of the way I've been driving it, as much as anything. I shall have to make some corrections when teh new box goes in. Input shaft bearing noise will decrease with clutch pedal pressed because the drive is removed. But yes, more often than not noises that work like that are associated with the throwout. It won't matter either way, new box will mean this one can be relegated to the parts pile.

There's more than one way to skin that cat, and most of the sump Maatouks have done will be GTR sumps. They are HUGE in GTR drag racing here.

You don't have to be bored driving a Camry. Not based on the way that a couple of f**king Ubereats/Didi/othersortofmethaddlednightshiftattheservicestationrecentimmmigrants were piloting them on the way to work this morning. f**k me dead!

FWIW, the Bride reps are really nice to sit in. The only complaint I have, other than the tear in my bolster, is that the velcro used to hold the backrest cushion in place, up under the headrest, is a little obvious and intrusive and could probably be done better. I don't know if that is a "feature" on the genuine ones also though. I haven't looked at a genuine one like the ones I have, only some of the older models. The other thing is, even though I bought the CF ones, I think the CF is really just decorative, over the top of the same FG as the normal seats. And so they really aren't light. Between the solidly built CF/FG seat, the steel frame in the recliner mechanism, and the solid-arse seat rail, they are probably heavier than even the stock seat. They are a serious lift to get in and out of the car.

Yes, and so the barest minimum power target is the one that makes the most sense. Massive power is fun, but you can only use it for 1.5s at a time, and only every now and then. Medium power levels allow you to enjoy the car far more often and for longer. 500 engine HP is just below 300 rwkW which is about the maximum that is sensible for any street car really. And for a 2.6L six, it will still leave you with a decent boost response and some sort of linearity of power delivery. As you get up towards 400rwkW the onset of power tends to be increasingly like a cliff and you need drag radials to keep the ground in proper contact with the car, and.... it's just not a car for driving around any more.

Good. I was worried we were still talking about the block. Yes, larger baffled sump is a good idea. Do not touch the pump unless you're going on a whole build saga. Read the oil control thread on here - at least the last 100 pages or so. We drew some reasonable things together in there. The short version is that venting the sump is more important than almost anything else you do.

Perhaps just get a proper mechanic who is good with Nissan autos (they were more or less the same across all the RWD, FWD, 4WD cars at that time, even if they were actually different boxes) to give it a good going over. He might be able to plug in a Consult or other scan tool and find out if it's got some fault codes. Otherwise, my approach to the problem if not liking the way the auto was workign behind my RB20 turbo, was to drop it on the workshop floor and put in the manual box that it really needed. That solved all the auto problems.

15000? ish? Something like that anyway. It wasn;t so much a wear as a tear that then spread. Might have lasted a lot longer if not bothered by just one incident, whatever it was. I took a punt. They are really comfortable and do a good job of holding. My daughter HATED it when I first put them in, and probably still does now. She has sensory issues and hates the way they are all up your business. I'm 197cm and 95kg. Not fat or particularly wide, and the XL size seat is the rigth fit. If I was any fatter it would start to get too snug. Any skinnier and you'd possibly want the smaller width.

The NA 2.5 has very little torque. You won't feel much. Those trannies are also a million years old now and it could well be f**ked. First generation electronically controlled autos will often refuse to kick down, ete, etc, depending on what's wrong with them.

Yes, but no but yes but no. Those "it's fine up to 500HP" rules and everything else like it were all determined back when the cars were 10 years old. As they are now 30 years old.....what do you reckon the chances of something shitting the bed are? I'd say they are much higher now than they used to be. You might be lucky. You might be unlucky. Spin the wheel and find out. Yeah, nah. It's actually exactly the opposite. Making boost early and having heaps of torque able to be generated right in the middle of the rev range will do more to damage an engine than having to rev it high to make the power. Think about the load on the conrods, bearings, etc, to make 400HP at 4000 rpm, vs 400 HP at 6500 rpm. So someone has already "let the Nissan out" which is how we describe the increased chance of a fiddled with engine to have had something done wrongly. Many more engines that have been opened die than stock ones do - even if you into consideration how they are treated wrt power levels and the like. Again, not saying that yours will definitely have been put back together by a moron. But the possibility does exist. It's still a lottery. Spin the wheel. What weakspots?

I bought my Bride reps from Crank Motorsport. He is, um, a trifle disorganised. I would have to look back at the e-mails to make sure I got it right, but I think he sent me normal fabric ones when I ordered the "Alcantara" ones. So he had to pay for shipping 3x and I'm sure that f**ked him off big time. And asking technical questions where nuanced English is required is a no go. It's simple English only. And....should I have bought the Alcantara ones? Well, as it turns out, they are great, feel great, etc, but the fabris wore through on the point of the waist bolster in <2 years. Must have caught a rip from a rivet on jeans or shorts, or something like that. So now I have to patch it somehow. A bit shit. My fault, ultimately, because it is Chinesium Faux Alcantara, not the real thing, and it turns ot that it has the tear resistance of a soggy tissue. But the seats and the reails are great. I probably should have gotten the R34 style ones, and now that they price is up in that ridiculous sort of number, I could have sold them for a profit!

Another recco is to just let it rest for a while and go back and reconnect later.

The R32 suffers from an instrument binnacle that is uncomfortably close to the design of a VN Commodore's. But beyond that, the layout of the rest of everything, and the materials (ie the vinyl coverings on dash, armrest, etc) are acceptable, and the patterns on the fabrics are not as blergh as those in the R33. And R33 seats are....quite unattractive. I know it's only small details there, but I reckon the R33 got worse than the 32. But the big blergh is the overall shape of the dash on the R33. It's just has that whole Maxima/Pulsar sort of look to it. Nothing special at all. Generic Nissan sedan. Whereas, at least the R32 dash/binnacle was different. Less a wide expanse of boringly curved plastic. More a "cockpit" sort of look, even if nowhere near to the degree that the A90 Supras got. R34 seats look good on their own, until you realise that they are indistinguishable from the shape and fabric on 70 other Japanese cars. And the foam bolsters on them suffer even worse than the earlier cars. Other than that I don't really have an opinion the rest of the R34 interior. I took the bits of the R34 I wanted (brakes and engine) and added them to the best external appearance Skyline in the modern era (the 32). So nyerr!