GTSBoy

Just as long as it's not those putridly disappointing RE003s.

This. All of this. I am turning >$300 into small particles inside 20k km, because I like to be able to roll around any 90° street corner at the speed limit. Would my car be more fun with cheaper tyres? Possibly. When I swapped out the bald AD09s for new ones, the change in the car was massive. The obvious one was being able to put the power down instead of lighting up into silly wheelspin. But the corollary of that was that the lateral traction went from being fun to fast. It was more fun when it was loose. But the corollary to the corollary is that if I need to dodge a child in the road or emergency brake to avoid the arsehat who has just tipped a GWM on its side in front of me, then I've got a much better chance of that manoeuvre coming off without unintended "fun" meaning that I hit something else, or the original target.

With Tyroola, they're probably 10 years old. It's already pretty clear that they've given the job of copywriting their adverts to an artificial stupidity (which could be a Year 9 dropout, or someone recently arrived to Oz with almost no English).

Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.

I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.

For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.

Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!

Yes - at ~2500-2700 rpm (ie, about 100-110) it was barking a bit. But I've heard that before. Makes me wonder if I haven't captured the flapper open in the past, but with the circlip still in place it rectified itself. More than once.

Early last week, I became concerned that the car was feeling....slow. Most of my driving is commuting to/from work and there are few opportunities to get up it and convincingly make boost/power. It drives in vacuum almost all the time. But when you do occasionally get an opportunity, and.... it takes a little longer to start making power, and then there's not as much as you'd expect, and then you run out of road anyway and have to bottle out - it can be hard to be convinced that there's something wrong. But by the end of the week I was pretty convinced. Made an effort to get a decent test run. Took bloody forever to come up on boost and when it did it would only make about 50 kPa of pressure. There was no black smoke, no noise of a boost or exhaust leak, no evidence anywhere of an intercooler hose clamp being sloppy enough to let air escape. So.... not that sort of problem. Brainstorming led to thinking that the boost controller's solenoid might have failed in some way. No active boost control would just give wastegate pressure, which I was more or less getting, and the laggy behaviour could just be "normal" shitty boost response from an uncontrolled highflow. But a little extra 3rd party brainstorming led to the thought that the actuator circlip might have jumped off leaving me with a bluetooth wastegate. So, on Friday, off comes the stock heatshield (which is an annoying enough job on its own) to reveal - yup. WG is wide open. And.... it won't come back. It is jammed in the dump. Put the rod back on with a new circlip and tried driving it to get it hot in the hope that the capture was from thermal effects having been blown into the dump when hot and since cooled. Nope. Won't move, even with screwdriver mediated force when hot. Ran out of time to play. Came back to it yesterday. Unbolted the dump. Was lying under it with the dump jammed up against my guts undoing the bottom 2 bolts. Got them most of the way out and gave the dump a serious heave. It didn't noticeably move, but there was a satisfying "plink" noise from up top. Shuffle out and sure enough, gate is now closed. Nevermind that there was still the better part of an hour after that required to put it all back together. f**ken cars.

For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 12 years later!

Put a piece of tape on it. If it's that gone, you would be seeing it on the balancer. It would look rooted. Not in this universe.

You do you. But I always resist changing things that don't matter, in favour of spending and doing on the things that do matter.

FYP. Sadly. Even bolt cutters wouldn't take 2 sec. But in the days of 18v angle grinders, nothing is safe.

yes

No it's fine. Heat sleeve is a thing. With oil running through it it is unlikely. Engine off heat soak can be a thing though. There is no way that you have a leak through the hose. That has pressure behind it and any small hole will turn into a large one in very short order. It is so much more likely to be leaking from the connection.

Really? That's piss weak. I didn't know they hobbled the shitboxen that badly. OK. So probs need to buy a flywheel too. But that's not too bad.

All RB push clutches are interchangeable. AFAIK, the 4cyl ones are not. Different flywheels. The RB small box is not identical to the 4cyl boxes. Just very similar.

Is actually easier than you might think. Assuming you have a spot, youfab up the branch, then just hang a longer than you can fit length of pipe down from there, and chop bits off piece by piece and decde which length was the quietest/nicest, then just put that length up in the place where it will fit. Clever folk can actually make like a trombone slide type arrangement so you can just play it like an instrument to find the best length.

200 cell cat will probably help. Do you have room to tee off a Helmholtz resonator anywhere along the exhaust? These can do wonders for drones, with a little experimentation with regards to length.

Noice. Mostly.

Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.

Where do the wires go?

Umm.... He attached it to his 2021 update post. Don't need the link. It is stored on the forum.

Are you suggesting that the expert fabricator's work is not as good as Sinco's? Oh, eeby deeby for glup shitto! Eeby deeby for glup shitto for one thousand years!

In the case of repeated flushes, you wouldn't bother sealing it if it's going to be removed again shortly afterward. Any little leak is not going to be a problem. You just seal it up the last time. I'd wait at least several hours, preferably a day, before loading any joint sealed with thread compound. It is an anaerobic sealant, meaning it should go off straight after being locked up between threads. But I find it is still wet long after use. Just give it some time to firm up before pressurising it.