GTSBoy

I dunno. I just go off what I know works. On RB20, the idle switch meant something to the ECU and the potentiometer was ignored. In Nistune, with the switch unplugged, you could bridge the terminals in the loom connector and see IDLE come on and off. Not so by moving the pot. The R32 RB20 ECU and the 26 ECU both look like this. Sure there is the "throttle sensor" (pot) on pin 38, and also sure, the idle switch is also directly wired to the TCU, whereas the pot is only directly conected to the ECU. But I am sure that the throttle position from the pot is passed to the TCU across the data bus on pins 21, 22 & 31. Maybe the ECU likes to know throttle position, but it sure as hell doesn't use it to determine the idle condition. Meanwhile, on the later engines, like the 33 25DET and my Neo, you remove the TPS and move the pot to-from the 0.45V position, and IDLE comes and goes in Nistune. No throttle switch on the ECU diagram. Just the pot.

Not in any way a logical conclusion. Also, looking at those logs, I struggle to see how that much oil pressure can go away that fast unless you are sucking air into the pickup. Meanwhile the ECU voltage is chucking a huge wobbly which seems to be tied to the throttle position. 100% throttle results in decreasing voltage. It's a mess.

Put a hand on an injector and see if that's what the buzzing is. You might be triggering the injectors by moving off idle command.

Well, you've already got one of them, so you only need to add one more. C'mon, you know you want to. Deep down your inner masochist is just aching to punish your bank account a bit more. Just a bit more.

I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.

Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.

Messing with narrowband switchovers is a terrible bandaid. I don't want to think about it. You are a cam "upgrader" only in concept. As you said, your new cam is actually smaller, so it's technically a downgrade. OK, likely a very small downgrade, but nevertheless. But the big thing that will be the most likely suspect is the change of the advance angle. That change could be equivalent to a substantial decrease in cam lobe duration. I haven't gone to the effort of trying to think about what your change would actually cause. But until someone (you, me (unlikely), Matt, someone else) does so and comes to a conclusion about the effect, it remains a possibility that that is the change that is causing what you're seeing.

Yeah, but the narrowband is truly narrowband. So you take it out of the linear zone and it is effectively nonsense. And that linear zone is so literally narrow, that nonsense is not very far away. Unless they are flicking back and forth across the stoich point, for real, under actual control, they can't be trusted for anything except entertainment value.

That's the thing. Especially at idle, changing the cam angle by that much could be spewing more fuel out the exhaust courtesy of everything happening that bit later. More fuel also means more air (if the fuel didn't burn, then neither did the O2) and so the O2 sensors can start to tell interesting but misleading stories. And the specifics of what is happening could easily be affected by everything else you changed as well. And it could be dynamic, where a few revs more or less could somewhat change how the engine is breathing.

That's nasty! I think there is perhaps an inherent problem is using elastomers in such environments. The whole thing can and will get quite hot, and elastomers are not famous for their temperature resistance. On top of that, if the components are cast rubber or urethane and so on, there might be QA/QC problems with bubbles or voids in the material that could critically change their performance. They might just tear apart after being squished (presuming that any elastomers are used in compression rather than tension, I'm thinking that you squeeze one with a void in it and it tears the wall of the void to the outer edge of block, then the next time it extends or otherwise twists, it just gives up). This is all purely hypothetical, but it makes me wonder if the things that they have put into it to make it nice to use/live with are perhaps going to cause occasional failures like this. I wouldn't be getting up in arms over it, unless there are many repeats. I have personally ruined an Xtreme clutch - just an HD thing. I can't remember if it was still behind the 20 or was after the 25 went in. But it inverted some of the retaining spring/clip things around the outside. No-one could explain it. It wasn't thrashed, there wasn't heaps of torque being put through it, and there were no obvious problems other than the above. They were quite concerned by the event so they replaced it even though it was a few years old, which was very nice of them. As far as I am concerned, these things happen with clutches.

It's (the TPS) buzzing? Or something else is buzzing in response? Remove the IACV from the plenum. Block the hole into the plenum with your hand. Get someone to start the car. Let some air is. Do the revs flare up? This is checking that the path into the plenum is clean. After that, is the air hose leading to the IACV fuly clear? After that, either you didn't clean it thoroughly enough to allow the valve to move, or it is broken.

I think, given the other pictures of same on the FPG site, that that is their tame R32 tank with a hole cut in the side used for dev purposes, and the rust is a non-consequential surface finish.

Yes, well, the problem being the plastic tank. The RWD R32s obviously have a similar tank, but in steel, viz and you can see a nice sheetmetal swirl pot baffle. I would imagine that that is somewhat harder to do on a plastic tank.

Probably the cam.

C'mon! At least come kicking and screaming into the 2000s. BA XR8 bulge.

There's still hope!

I open the bonnet of a French people mover and see a VQ - it's no longer Japanese! VR is short for VQJr

Nah. It's a Renault. The VQ is more French than Japanese.

This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?

The only Neo rods that were any different to any other RB25 rods were the DET ones, and they were the same as RB26. Here is a Neo DET rod. O5U part number visible. Here is a post in a thread here on SAU with evidence from someone who has done this before. There are photos in the thread of normal RB25 rods.

Are you talking about the oil squirters? There is only one place for them to go. Yes, you have to drill the holes. Yes you have to obtain the correct oil squirters (I presume there is some sort of aftermarket option available, because original turbo ones are going to be a diminishing resource).

Same same. DE block has no oil squirters though. You either live without them, or go to the effort of adding them. The type of pain is up to you.

You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.

Hose's can't possibly stay connected from a non-rotating frame of reference that is not on the axle axis. Even if you put some slip joints into the stationary end of it, it would be 3s before it bound up and twisted itself into a pretzel.

Yes.