GTSBoy

Wanna rewrite all of that in, say, 2 or 3 separate sentences, so that we can read it?

It's almost certainly a reluctor generating an "AC" waveform. No, ECUs don't generally read those - they're usually set up for PWM square wave 0-5v stuff.

If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.

Remember kids - if you can't afford to buy 2 GTRs......

No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.

A wise man once told me, "Anything you enjoyed wasting was not wasted".

Have you done 10x restarts since it came on?

Time for some swaptronics.

Just put skinny tyres on it.

Keeping in mind that for most people this is a week to month long job!

This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.

Virtual valve adjustment popping into and out of existence in the quantum foam caused by blowby in the oil.

Hydraulic lifters.

Buy whichever one makes you happiest when you sit in it. After all, that's where you'll be experiencing it.

Well, it's just a solid core cable in an outer. Buy a (longer) cable for something else, take them both apart and build one for the 34?

Phillips. Rules the world.

No. BSP lost to the cultural/technical imperialism of living next to Trumpistan. Face it, Robertson screws were better and still pretty much lost out to the yank stuff. The Europeans hate the Brits and they don't use NPT. NPT is just as "imperial" as BSP is, being based on those useless inch thingos. Just done differently.

Well, actually I would appreciate it if the car world could get away from using that terrible North American thread form, and use BSP. But yes. Pipe thread all the way. Point of order - the Japanese do NOT use NPT. Their pipe threads are The Japanese thread form, which is same same to BSP.

There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.

The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.

Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.

Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.

Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.

3rd gear is the most common failure. There is no good idea that contains "just upgrade 3rd gear" in it anywhere.

You're already well into "gearbox is a consumable" territory there. A billet plate will either make it (effectively) 1% stronbger or make it last one more pass. At some point you'll probably tear 3rd gear into small chunks and regret all the life decisions that came before it.