GTSBoy

I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.

The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.

No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.

Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.

My post contains the actual truth. Clause 3.2 b.

The problem has always been that coilovers are able to be adjusted, almost at any time, to be too low. Most people who ever get/got defected for/with coilovers were actually afoul of the minimum ride height rule. So the interpretation by cops/inspectors was always that it is pointless to allow numpty to raise his coilovers and get the car inspected/cleared, then just drop them back down again as soon as they get around the corner from the inspection station. This led to the interpretation that they were illegal unless rendered such that they can't be adjusted (ie, collars welded to the body, that sort of thing). That may or may not have ever actually been the official line, but I'm pretty sure it's not considered to be a solution these days. Coilovers themselves fall under clause 3.2 b of that manual, because they are an "installation of a variable ride height system" and they don't fit the exclusions in that clause (which point to air springs and other pneumatic adjusters). So, as per previous statements, they require engineering cert to be legal on the road. Once you have such cert, provided you do not adjust them outside the height range covered by the cert, you are OK. Without, you have an unroadworthy vehicle.

But seriously, can we ask for the results of the "tip a bottle of metho into a nearly empty tank" experiment?

Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.

If the gases flowing in those two tracts had the same properties, you could maybe use such broscience. But the exhaust has a different composition, different normal density, different actual density (because of different normal density, and mostly because of the massively higher temperature), and different viscosity (again because of much higher temperature). Consequently, all of the fluid dynamics parameters that matter, that you calculate from these inputs, such as the Reynolds number, friction factors (for wall friction) and so on, are all incomparable.

And we shall have to presume that Canada is the same?

The "long nose" diffs in your type of car, that have the speed sensor on the snout, are a pain because the casing is different from all the other short nose diffs. This means that the pinion shaft inside them is longer, which can make it harder to do certain types of diff swaps. But, if all you are going to do it swap the diff centre, and keep the gears (that's the crownwheel and pinion gears) then you won't have any problems.

Just tip a bottle of metho into a nearly empty tank. You should see that signal. 's'not difficult.

Well, in the same way that you can't tell any SUV from any manufacturer in any size category from any other one, "sports" coupes now all look identical. Stand back and squint your eyes and the Supra and the 400Z and the GR/BRZ things all look the same. I was just thinking last night, when sitting behind a Subaru CrossTrek, that I have no idea what it is, how it differs from an XV, or a Forester, or an Outback, or anything else Subaru offer, and I couldn't tell if it was supposed to be small, medium or large. I contrasted that to the good old days, where a HQ Kingswood had familial similarities to an LJ Torana, but there is no way that you could confuse them, and how a bit later, the HX Kinger and the concurrent Torana and the Gemini all had familial similarities, but you still could not confuse them. Ditto the ugly Fords and Chryslers of the era. But now, a RAV4 looks like a Kluger, looks like a Yaris/Cross/whatever they're calling those stupid f**king things, looks like every other Toyota that's not a Camry/Corolla sedan.

Yep. And if you ever do, you'll just have to deal with it then.

You say potato, I say potato?

If the current relationship is between the diff and the speedo, then no, you will not need a speed sensor in that hole in the gearbox. If the car were an R33 GTST, or an R34 GT-T, then it would need a speed sensor in there. Because that's what those cars have/need. If the car were an R32, then it will need a cable drive cobbled together from a Navara speedo drive, because R32s can't handle an electronic speed signal to the speedo.

The opposite experiment is equally viable. 10L of petrol in the tank + 2L of metho.

I'm with both M & D here. There's little harm, unless you're prone to getting annoyed by over-enthusiastic displays of wild optimism and/or stupidity**. And there is potential benefit from basking in the warm glow of schadenfreude, if you get something from that. **The bookface generation seem to think that if they can see something on the internet, then it must have been posted just before, because there is clearly absolutely no history when everything is served up on some sort of dash, fresh for your algorithm fed delectation.

Well, yeah. But not with that nasty plastic cap. Well, actually it's a very nice plastic cap - given its job is only to keep the transport oil fill inside. But I wouldn't trust it to remain strong for years.

Just do an experiment. Run the tank down to nearly empty. Put 20L of something else in it, with no ethanol. Swish it round with the pump (ie running at idle and/or low load). Then fill it up with the decent stuff and drive sensibly for a half tank then fill it properly. Or suck the crap out and put it in the wife's car. Whatever.

It's where the speed sensor goes.

Hell, even an old Microtech LT in piggyback just to run the fuelling would be a substantial improvement. You really only need to fix that one thing (which is bore washingly worrying).

Oof. You're not wrong about "rich". I'm surprised not to have seen black smoke on the dyno. Less than 10 is fat enough, let alone diving below 8 at the top end!

Hey! That's not cardboard.

Welllll..... some of the Preludes, particularly this one Sort of kinda mimicked the long-nose-short-deck-Mustang/Skyline profile anyway. That one ^ kinda like R34. The other more curvy Prelude kinda like the R33. Integras had a little of that going on also. So, it's not totally surprising to me that their designers have gravitated to a similar profile to more "modern" (ha! 20 year old!!) Nissan coupes. Of course, they could have just stolen the V/Z platform anyway, per your suggestion. I am, otherwise, similarly unimpressed. Those venty things at the bottom of the front guard/door reek of Tiburon, which is not a place any designer would want to be.