GTSBoy

Nope. Coils is just a misfire. ECU is not that clever.

Coilpacks or some other electronics packing the shits when they get hot enough would be my guess.

That's just it....it doesn't use IAT for those things. Most Nissan ECUs from the era (like all other RBs that is) don't even have an IAT!

The RB26 IAT sensor is not really doing a good job of measuring the air temperature. It really reflects the plenum temperature, which is often a lot hotter than the air. For this reason, the RB26 ECU doesn't look at the IAT for any normal fuel-air or timing input. It's really only there for the ECU to go into a panic if it get seriously hot. So before getting too worried about the IAT sensor, the infometer, or anything else, I'd suggest slipping a skinny wired thermocouple bead under a hose clamp after the intercooler and try to measure the air temperature more directly. Or install a proper IAT if you want to go banzai on it.

If you're really talking 1000Hp as a target, then you don't have the option of keeping the duration low. You need revs and therefore you need cams that will support that. So 270+ degree cams is almost a given. There is also no reason to think that your options are "duration" OR "lift". Realistically, you should run as much lift as you can. The longer the duration the easier it is to get more peak lift into the lobe. The limits are imposed by the other parts of the VT (lifter bores, springs, etc). So whilst I won't give you a specific recommendation here, I will give you a general one that says, get something with big duration and as much lift as you can handle. For reference, a loooong time ago I was involved in the making of a Supra do ~1000HP and it had HKS 292° cams in it (IIRC) and idled like a race bike. Used many revs to make the power, on 98.

Yes, the other thread linked above has someone who swears that he fit 375mm rotors inside the 17's that had 390mm bore diameter. I have a hard time believing that there is any clearance at all between the calipers and the wheel bores, and I have a hard time believing that the calipers actually even have enough room to have material to hold the two halves together in the first place. But they were AP Racing calipers or something equally exotic, not the bulky arse Sumitomos that we start with. I have R33 Sumitomos on R33 rotors inside Enkei RPF1 17s. There is just enough room to slide your fingers between the caliper and the wheel bore. Therefore there is bugger all possibility of going much bigger than the 324mm sort of size change that people do with these Sumitomos inside a wheel like mine. The Brembos that usually sit on the 324mm rotors (and other similar Brembos, like the Evo ones that people use a lot these days) must be more space efficient (radially) because they do seem to go onto 330-340mm rotors well enough. And of course that still leaves the question of the wheel bore diameter as another variable. In short, the caliper design and the wheel bore both matter.

Both. Looking at it from the traditional direction of modification......Once you have a delete bar or proper delete kit (that also gets rid of the original tie rods and ends) then you have to loop the hydraulic lines at the rear solenoid (at the minimum) in order to keep the rear circuit of the PS pump happy. Looking at it from the direction you would be approaching it, by changing the PS pump first.....If you're going to change to a PS pump that only handles the front steer, then there is no point in leaving the HICAS pipework and solenoids and shit in the car at all and should take the opportunity to kill it all with fire.

One thing to keep in mind with the PS pumps is that R32s have a 2 circuit pump. Front steer and rear steer are run on those two separate circuits. If you get rid of the R32 pump and you still have HICAS working, it will stop working and need to be killed properly.

Hell no. You need to restrict different amounts depending on how big your oil pump is. There can be no blanket rule on whether to fit them or not based on what type of lifters are in there.

I think that one is just to heat the inlet manifold. Does nothing else. Block or bypass depending on access.

Well, yes they do. But the question you ask about Tomei something something.....we don't know what the something something is.

It's going to be heat sensitive electronics. Coil packs, ignitor, CAS, AFM are the leading items in the engine bay that will do it. The other thing is simply the loom plugs for all these things. They can get old and brittle, with oxidation on the contacts. Get them warm and things move or the resistance changes and they stop working. The other leading possibility is the fuel pump. Could be running OK to start with but dying off as it warms up. Any decent mechanic should be able to help fault find this stuff. You may need some parts for swaptronics though.

It's hardly worth paying for a low mount manifold to mount a highflow turbo on. The OEM manifold is perfectly good for the sort of power levels that you can hope to obtain from such a turbo. If you were to spend $$ on one of these, then it would return a small benefit in outright power, might cost some spool revs. Money better put towards a high mount manifold and external gate and more turbo. Or if not wanting to spend that much, towards E85 compatible stuff to make better use of what you have. Etc. Not that there's anything wrong with that manifold.....just that it's not really a worthwhile thing to lust after.

My thoughts are that it shouldn't matter if you don't have the stuff hooked up that would cause idle load to change. Just get the ECU to learn through it doing nothing, and it comes out the other side not GAF about those things. I concur on the O2 sensor & feedback being vital. Once you get past cold start you need it working, or you need it tuned to ignore it properly.

I think the igniter is the same. But regardless of whether it is or isn't and regardless of whether the coils connectors are the same....there's nothing that wouldn't succumb to some repinning if required.

If I was o be modifying the combustion chamber of a 26 head it would be to put MORE squish in.

There's no point in contemplating putting the Neo ECU's image into an RB20 ECU. For one thing, it's just not possible. For the another, it's the image/program that is the problem when it comes to expecting communications to/from other CUs in the car (ABS/TCS/ATTESA). So it's not the type of ECU that matters. If you really wanted to you could run the Neo engine on an RB20 ECU with the RB20 image in there. All you have to do is sort out the sensor wiring differences and tune it. But that doesn't gain you anything at all. You'd only do that if you were running some engine for which you cannot do Nistune into its ECU (like R33 and earlier Stagea engines). So that also puts paid to your idea of using an earlier Stagea engine. It wont make it easier, it will actually make it harder, because then you definitely have to use a non-native ECU to run the engine (if you want to tune it). The Neo ECU is significantly more advanced than the older ECUs and therefore would be the better choice for running the engine. If you Nistune it, then you obtain the ability to bypass all the DTCs that come up from not having proper communications between the other CUs. And that's all you need to run the engine properly. The ATTESA computer and the ABS computer in your car should still run just fine with a different ECU in there. Look what happens to all the thousands of guys who put aftermarket ECUs into these cars. The 4WD and brakes don't just suddenly stop working. A Nistuned R34/Stagea ECU won't be any different.

What the hell is bread crump? Do you mean crumbs? We just use bearing grease.

DTCs are fault codes. Diagnostic Terminal Codes, or somesuch. The Neo era cars ABS computer talks to the ECU more than the R32 era cars' computers talk to each other, so I'd guess you'd be the same as not having ABS. Actually making sure that your original ABS keeps working could be a challenge too.

That would be a throwaway, even if it was forged, on any engine that you wanted to make power out of.

There's no det damage on that piston. That's a mechanical impact.

You will need to Nistune it from the outset. There are DTC faults that you can't deal with unless you have NIstune. Missing ABS & TCS are the big ones. Being able to override the boost sensor errors etc etc, also vital.

Um.....Neo ECUs are fully Nistunable. I have a Neo in my R32 GTSt, using Nistuned Neo ECU. It's fine. Auto, manual, all good.

And perhaps you'd better decide whether you want a Quaife or a Nismo. They are 2 totally different operating characteristics. Better research the difference between a helical/torsen LSD and a conventional mechanical LSD if you're not aware of them.

Serious? 2 seconds to type it in. First hit! https://www.google.com.au/?gws_rd=ssl#q=site:sau.com.au+plenum+install+howto