GTSBoy

What do you need photos for? You've got the engine, stick a camera under there and make your own. Or rip the manifold off and do the job. It's a painful job. Best done with engine out before a transplant.

sigh. What do you want to use the car for? What is the performance goal?

Well, apart from the silly power claim, if the engine is that new, is directly known by the builder and the builder & tuner can vouch for the lack of stupidity of the owner (a big ask, frankly), then it is possibly a good way to get such an engine without the hassle of building it. But at $35k......there's still a lot of risk associated with the idea.

Are you talking about the short (few inch long) hard lines on the caliper itself? The likes of HEL braided lines always replace that anyway. The thing you need is for the lines you buy to have the right fitting on the end for the caliper itself. I _think_ they're the same on Sumitomos and Brembos....but take my word at your peril. The smart move would be to buy R32 GTR HEL lines to suit Brembo.

For some reason I can't follow that link - it doesn't even display properly. Is it on here, or is it facebook? (I have EVERYTHING facebook blocked in my browser). By proper vendors.....I'm thinking OEM stockists like Ashdown Ingrams and the like.

Sorry, you're right, was thinking Denso and having had the same argument elsewhere over the truck coils the other day, have OEM name confusion to add to my other problems. There is a way to buy proper Denso product. Go to a proper vendor, not eBay et al.

In Nissans, almost all relays are either in the engine bay fusebox, or strapped near the ECU.

Meh.....should have responded to this the first time it made me shrug. If you want replacement bushings for the KCA336 kit, then you've probably learned that in the long run the urethane bushes for these cars are not the best way to do things. Time to migrate to the GK-Tech arms and go back to liking the way the front suspension works again.

Well, it goes without saying that you want genuine Delco. Otherwise it's no different to putting yellowjackets on.

Us thet a warrunt of futniss? Get a diagnostic done on the ABS system and find out what's holding it out.

You could fix that rail so it is 3x stronger than original. I make no representation as to what state the rest of the car will be in if the rails look like that though. That is a sure sign of "give no f**k".

Hell, construction of an RB34 should be accompanied by a concrete warranty. Once you're off the concrete and onto the bitumen, warranty is over!

The rail's not bent. It's just f**ked. Classic moron jacking it up wrong and/or bashing it into speedbumps. It is major league defectable. It is very fixable, but at a cost of course. On my R32 we made a tool that we could insert through the holes in the rail to push out the (much smaller) damage done over the years before I had to take it through Regency for approvals because we know they are (unts about that sort of thing. If they saw that photo, they would hand you a defect notice to stick on your head!

The error code clearly says that the Accessories relay is not working. So either the relay, the fuse or the wiring in that circuit are compromised.

The pros are that if they are done right then they are far better than the factory CAS (for hard working engines that is. For stockers, who gives a rat's?). The cons are that when they are bad they are very very bad. Spitting belts and other shenanigans can really take the shine off something that was supposed to make life better.

Well, the auto is ghey, so you'll have to leave the women behind. But...... You need a turbo. Excluding 2nd hand deals, the cheapest way to do that properly (Hypergear) is going to cost you ~$1k. You need injectors. As above, ~$600. You need a fuel pump. $200 or thereabouts. Could be more, could be less. You need an intercooler. You need an ECU. Depending on what ECU, you will need an AFM. This line here can cost you between $1k and $5k. Tuning will cost at least several hundred. You do not need cams. You will probably need coilpacks. 110k kms, is funny. More like 210k kms. If you need help fitting it, then there's $$ hiding there, In short. It is possible to do all this inside your budget. Kinda, just. Could be done for less with good scrounging and not much paid labour. Could cost a reasonable amount more if you need to pay someone for most of the work. I strongly suggest you have a look at the RB25 dyno thread. All the information you really need has been posted on this site about 3000 times over the last 20 years.

It's often the air-con drain hose behind the dump getting hot.

You need to put a noid light on the injectors to make sure they are actually pulsing. After that, you're into compression/leakdown testing to see if it won't fire because it's got no squish.

Well, the only sensible thing that can be said is that there is no such thing as a rebuilt Nissan Hitachi ceramic turbo that still has a ceramic turbine. That is the very first thing that has to go when rebuilding them.

Yaris (or just about any similar pencil coil) hands down choice over the truck coils as the truck coils are finicky about dwell. Yaris, or Celica or Corolla (which is pretty much the 1NZ and 1ZZ coils) are all much of a muchness I think. There is one particular choice out of them which is the better one. A lot of them have the wiring loom plug angled upwards. These are not as good a choice as the ones with the loom plug horizontal, because of not being able to make them fit under a coil cover. I think the part number of choice is 90919-02240 . See http://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/coilpack-info-guide The similar Audi coils and R35 coils are all equally good. Whatever the choice, you end up needing plugs and some mounting plates. And probably have to sort out rubber boots/springs.

And that was what you did wrong. You have the car in your possession. You have the existing wheels and can see how they fit and how much space there is. You have the tape measure. And yet you decided to let them pick the offset?

^ This!

If it's not ceramic you'll be gold. If it is ceramic, you're just playing the lottery. They can die at any speed. The chances just get higher as you wind them up.

It's not the psi or the temperature* that's important. It's shaft speed. Even with boost the diesels don't make mush power, and even though they run very high air-fuel ratios compared to petrol engines, they still end up moving far less air on a diesel than they end up moving on a petrol engine at the same boost. They end up at a different place on the compressor map on diesels. Higher pressure ratio, lower air flow rate. This in turn results in lower shaft speed. It's shaft speed that is the killer. * Yeah, OK, temperature helps/doesnt help, depending on which way your looking at it. The lower temperatures in diesels almost certainly mean that the turbo will accept some higher shaft speed before you risk spinning the turbine off the shaft. As to the OP......there are no RB single turbos with steel wheels. If yours is not ceramic, then it's been fiddled with and we can't tell you what it effectively is.

Yeah, they're no Enkei.