GTSBoy

Guilty dirty ranger pleasure that one.

I even think she's hot in The Croods.

Marcus, how are you connecting that nasty looking rusty steel box to the huge hole in the alloy head?

There is definitely something wrong with you. I liked your post, but there is definitely something broken!

Of course it's possible. They don't "lock". They have clutches inside that have a breakaway torque. Exceed that torque and the two shafts will turn at different speeds. Do that a lot and the clutches will wear. At this point you might actually need to get it serviced. And yes, oil to make it shudder less will likely make it break away earlier. You actually want the opposite. Find a very good driveline workshop and go talk abut oils there.

It's just a standard casing. No-one would ever normally bother to change that on an R32. The diff itself will most likely be an aftermarket 2-way mechanical. Again because almost no-one would bother welding one when mech centres are readily available and not too expensive. The good news is that a decent mech diff sells for $500-$1000 2nd hand. So you might come out of this with money in your pocket if you can locate a stocker. FWIW, the stock VLSD is a piece of shit and you will hate yourself if you install one. Single spinners suck dogs' balls.

Stop looking for GTV and just starting looking for information on turbo conversions (of all sorts) on NA Skylines of all sorts. There's nothing really different between any of them that would make you focus on searching based on GTV (brakes and suspension notwithstanding). Oh, and don't waste your time and money converting an NA. Sell it and buy a GTT.

A 2.6L NA Skyline, especially a GTR with extra weight on board, would be an uninteresting thing to drive. Worse than a Camry. And that's for a completely normal NA engine. A turbo engine below the boost threshold has to deal with the lower compression ratio (as mentioned by XGTRX above) and the obstruction of the turbo in the inlet and exhaust tracts. There's a lot wrong with turbo engines when they don't have boost. Logically, the best thing for any turbo engine is simply for it to be bigger. A good big turbo engine will always be better than a good small turbo engine. A classic example is when I converted my R32 from RB20 to a 25Neo. The RB20 is completely lacking in torque output unless it is on boost. The car is just slow before the turbo spins up. The 25Neo, even with only an extra 500cc or 25% of the RB20's capacity, makes a lot more torque when off boost and you can surf around the streets with smaller throttle openings and more urgent response to larger openings even before getting boost out of it. Logically, a 3L version would have to be even better. Logically then, a 3.2L version would be even better again. The only problem with chasing capacity is running up against the physical limits, whether they be mechanical or the breathing capacity of the head. If I had a 3.2L big engine GTR like you I'd probably be happier to give up 500-1000rpm of boost response in order to obtain massive power - IF I was after massive power. The car would be nice to drive off boost anyway. BUT.....in general for a street car I'd probably not be looking for massive power so I'd probably stick with a more responsive setup so that I can transition from driving nicely off-boost to making enough power to run away from most challengers near on instantly, rather than waiting a bit longer for a stupidly large rush of power.

There is a difference between boost threshold and lag. I think you are arguing for negation of a low boost threshold on the basis that an engine that can rev could be kept in the rev range where it is making boost. Superficially, that would seem correct, but it is only true for certain usage scenarios. Circuit racers, drag and perhaps rally are the main examples. In the real world, you will often find yourself in the wrong gear. Simply needing to make a quick lane change in traffic is a good example. A responsive setup that makes boost from lower revs simply has to make more sense in this situation. And in the rest of the real world, no-one wants to be spinning their engine away at 4500 rpm, using heaps more fuel and wearing it out faster if they could be a gear or 2 higher and using 2000 less revs. Drive any car with an instantaneous fuel consumption display and see the difference for yourself, even just holding a constant speed. Then there is lag. The real, and only true definition of lag is "the delay before boost is produced when opening the throttle at an engine speed wherein the engine would have been making boost if the throttle had already been open and load applied". This is to be taken to mean explicitly what it says. Lag is when you are already above the boos threshold revs but are not yet asking for boost. When you open the throttle, whatever the delay before you get boost, that's lag. The impacts on drivability of this real lag are effectively the complete destruction of normal NA throttle response. When driving through a tight turn and opening the throttle, an NA engine will start to make all the torque it is able to make from the moment you start to open the throttle. A turbo engine will start to make its NA torque, and then boost will arrive and it will start to ramp the torque level up (either a little or a lot, depending on how much boost we're talking about). Read some old Porsche 911 turbo reviews from the late 70s to find out what the consequences of lag used to be!! People using the term "lag" to describe what the boost threshold of an engine is is just lazy misuse of the term. It is basically equivalent to the horrible GenY/GenZ use of the word "verse" to describe a competition between two entities. Somebody starts using it, and everybody thinks it's correct and uses it too. But it's not. And it sucks.

Multiple fisting is so mainstream nowadays.

I think you missed the rather unsubtle double entendre!!

I was serious. HICAS is worse than being raped in prison. It deserves to be removed the instant a car with it still installed is bought. FWIW, there's nothing in particular that you could have done accidentally whilst changing a clutch. Ergo, it is either unrelated or so unexpected that it is impossible to predict what has happened, hence the advice to use a scan tool to find out what the HICAS CU thinks is wrong. This is definitely the fastest and most accurate way to do these things.

No. I have no ideas what it could be, apart from the 20 or so things that it could be. Take it to a mechanic that has a decent scan tool and read the code(s) out of it. Then either fix it or do the full HICAS delete. I know which one I would do.

Dunno about 6 speed, but it's definitely somebody's sequential box banged on an RB front.

If you are going to do what is written in your last post, then why would you object to removing the cams from the head before removing the head anyway? On that basis, if there was lots of sludge up top, I would disassemble the top of the head in car, carefully remove sludge with the head still installed and then go back to driving around an unopened motor. They're never as good once the head has been lifted (is the general consensus around here).

And there is no IAT sensor on an RB20 so you will need to go into the flags and mask out the code for it. And, don't go trying to load the RB20 maps into the RB26 ECU. You can't. You need to use a Nistune programmer to get rid of the RB26 stuff and replace it with the RB20 stuff. Then inside Nistune you use an RB20 address file to work with the ROM. As you won't have the programmer, you are going to be using it as an RB26 ECU to run RB20. If it were me, I would not bugger around. Move the board over to an RB20 ECU. Note though that you will now definitely need to get it reprogrammed!!!!

I just love the balls out enthusiasm that results in buying a drift modified car without knowing ANYTHING at all about it. And when I say "it", I mean the whole lot of subjects, drifting, Skylines, R34s, TCS and ABS systems, diffs, modifications required/desired for drifting. Let me restate my initial post. Doing the things to a car that are required to make it a drifter is quite likely to result in the TCS and ABS (Same basic system in an R34, sharing many sensors) having a nana. This is especially true because drifters tend to be eager to do the bodgiest things to achieve their goal. Secondly, a tight mechanical LSD will behave exactly as you describe. There's nothing wrong with it (apart from it being a pain in the arse). The mechanic you use either has no idea what he is looking at (and is therefore not really a mechanic because how the hell does one get through a 4 year apprenticeship and trade school without having at least one stupidly modified car probably involving welded diff gears???) or is unable to speak the same language as you. Either way, find a better mechanic.

Don't worry about the offset. Worry about the massive diameter increase!

I'm not going to comment on any of the hoses, but I will say that the "factory engine oil cooler" is not so much a cooler as it is a warmer. It was intended to bring the oil and coolant up to temperature more evenly as an emissions improving thing. It also has the side effect of bringing the engine up to temperature more evenly from a cold start which is a good thing in itself, independent of emissions considerations. On that basis, the best thing to do is to leave it there and let it do what it's supposed to.

It's not so much a question of why we modify, it's a question of how.

Heat 'em up with an oxy torch and stretch 'em. All the kids are doing it.

Well, if you f**k up the ABS and TCS systems, which is entirely possible on a drift pig, then of course the dash lights will be on. And what do you think a tight 2-way diff feels like to drive around on?

Why do you need a certain power figure?

Like any rough as guts highflow.....less than 250rwkW I suppose.

That's pretty well written. It does show your usual biases Adrian, but in this instance I don't think there is a position from which to argue against them!