GTSBoy

Mine arrived while I was on a recent OS trip. Have ripped them apart with glee today! Question is....there's a pair of washers in a small bag. Should it be obvious to me where they go?

Spindle bearing.

Nope. Fatal mistake. Bigger turbo @ same boost WILL be flowing more air. The turbo has a bigger compressor AND a bigger exhaust side. The bigger exhaust housing seriously reduces backpressure on the engine, which increases flow at the same boost. In the best case, you simply stay on the Nissan map, go up into the top right hand corner and have massive R&R. In the worst case, your fuel pump is not up the demands, you might have one or more dirty injectors, your CAS might have jitter out the waazoo, and you won't know because you didn't put it on the dyno to reassure yourself that it's not about to carve up the ring lands, plate them onto the combustion chamber and send the residue out into the exhaust.

Well, if you ignore the different seats, doors trims, under-dash panel and instruments.....then yes they are identical. There's also a rare variant of centre console where the storage bin/armrest is taller on some GTSt that were optioned with it, that never turned up in GTRs.

Mostly good. Couple of things to keep in mind. R33 subframe will mean you need a later model (R33/4 /S14) rear cover for the diff to mount to it. R33 rear upper arms are different to R32. If you get adjustable rear uppers you really should also get the rear tension rods too. So you can control the toe change on suspension movement. If you get Whiteline adjustable ARBs get the heavy duty end links too. I won't comment on changing lower front arms to R33. If you haven't already got them, get some front caster arms with ball ends. Much better than any other choice on the front and you will be able to take advantage of the Nismo upper arm mount mod and GKTech upper arms to wind on as much caster as you can before wearing holes in the inner guard liners. Oddly enough, I have just bought these arms, and some spare mounts to weld up and drill. They're sitting on the desk at home while I languish on a cement plant on the other side of the planet! I look forward to fitting them when I get home......sometime before Xmas.

Yuh, the Neo manifolds aren't offset at the rear runners.

They be brake lines and don't get any hotter than the engine can make them.

The markings on the crownwheel make no difference because they are Nissan parts regardless of the origin of the diff centre. The fully machined surface on the pumpkin does indeed make it look like Nismo. Beyond that, it's going to be too hard to be 100% sure. There may just be another brand that is machined like that, not that I know of any.

Oh, yeah, there's every chance that some severe damage could have been done. If a car gets beaten around so bad that the front lower arms get bent, then you could easily have the front subframe bent or even moved on the mounting bolts from the rails. This is bad because it's hard to see and fix and makes it almost impossible to get a good alignment and have the car drive properly. The rear subframe can also take a beating the same way.

It is very likely that all of those components did suffer damage if the thief drove over gutters and shit. I concur with the above advice. If you could ship it to Adelaide, for example, I could point you at a suspension shop that I'd trust to get it straight. The owner would hate you and me both, because he hates Skylines.....but he'd survive, and so would you car. Probably.

1" rattle gun. Donka donka donka donka donka donka

Do it yourself. Die grinder. Shove a rag into the volute. Tape over the turbine outlet. Oil resistant hose is available literally everywhere. Pirtek will do. But just about any mechanic's workshop will have rolls of it and will sell you a little bit. As will truck parts outlets, any hydraulics outlet (like B.L. Shipways, etc).

Just a point of order......compare the sizes of the turbines between the eBay cheapy and the highflow. The relaive size gives you some idea about how much power each will support and therefore how much gas they need to also bypass through the wastegate. The cheapy won't need the wastegate hole ported out anywhere near as big as that massive hole on the highflow. But it definitely will need it ported. You'll need to open it up by at least 2mm of diameter. You still need to have enough overlap of the flapper onto the seat for it to provide a gas seal though, so don't go too crazy.

You probably _can_ leave the housing bolt out, but.......I don't think I would be happy. There's plenty of other bolts holding the comp cover on, so it's unlikely that it will flex or leak or whatever. If it were me, and desperation was there, I would grind the height of the bolt head down so there's just enough to grab with a tool and at least apply some clamping force to the joint. Probably with some suitable locktight. Otherwise it comes down to altering the fitting that you're bolting to the core to gain the required clearance. And yes.....copper washers are not really optional.

Almost never. They are really good bearings (both by design and quality) from the factory. Especially at the rear, they can be completely shagged and you'd hardly notice. To the extent that I spend a bit of time lately wondering if mine are stuffed and whether I should replace them!

He's just advising that his target for the engine is 400kW and that is supposed to provide background on how important the idea of using the torque plate when doing the rings is.

remove globes

scan tool

Yuh, I'd suspect yahoo ignorance* as the primary cause of death. *others may call it enthusiasm.

I think it would be fairly logical, unless you are Nissan/Hitachi, to make your turbine's speed limit higher than your compressor's speed limit. This is particularly true if you can match your compressor's speed limit to its efficiency and capacity limits. Then you only need to say that the speed limit on X turbo is Y rpm, because after that it's compressor is not going to work nicely and you stand a chance of breaking the comp wheel. Meanwhile, the turbine has some higher limit that you should not approach because you can't get there anyway. And all the emphasis on speed limits and speed sensors and stuff is completely sensible, because it stops people from simply overdriving their compressors. I also suspect that the operating conditions on the turbine are a hell of a lot more variable than the compressor. So whilst it might be possible to put a reasonably solid speed limit on the comp wheel based purely on mechanical strength and tip speed, the turbine will be running at different temperatures depending on the engine/fuel/tune etc etc. If your published speed limits were to be imposed by your turbine, then you would have to use an arbitrarily low limit to handle the worst case of those conditions. But if the turbine's limit is handily above that of the compressor, even at the worst case conditions, then you're all good. Note that I am perfectly aware that people have managed to destroy EFR turbines. I haven't paid enough attention to know whether they usually just kill the turbine or if they kill the comp wheel more or as well as the turbine. There's probably also deaths attributable to bad tuning and high exhaust gas temps and all that other jazz. I don't think any of those deaths would necessarily invalidate what I said above though.

You can do it that way. But given how often your machinist probably needs his RB torque plate, you could probably just borrow it for a week.

Oh, it's OK. I'd only be interested in the diff if it was fully sick Nismo 1.5 way hella spec stuff anyway. Hence my question about the subframe. Because if I was going to change from my S15 helical, then I'd need driveshafts. And if I need driveshafts, then I could use his. And if I get all that, then he might as well put the whole rear end on a pallet and send it to me and I'll transplant yet another rear subframe into my car and get improved late model geometry (which I should have done using an S14 subframe instead of a Cefiro one!!!farken!). After all, it's only money. And then if I have R34 rear brakes I might as well put R34 fronts on as well. See how it all snowballs out of control?

What brakes? Got a diff? Is rear subframe and suspension straight? Or did it cop too big an arse raping? Also, chase up this clown, who might still be looking for a new engine.

Could be just about anything. A serious contender would be the throttle position sensor. It plays a part in idle behaviour and tranny behaviour. But it could also be something that is only affecting the engine speed (like a failed cold start valve or IAC) or it could be a vacuum leak, or it could be a transmission failure that the TCU is sending a signal to the ECU causing the high idle (and the tranny failure eventually makes it not shift properly when it gets warm). By far your best bet is to loosen the bellhousing bolts from the back of the engine, remove the tailshaft, remove the transmission crossmember and shake the car vigorously over a scrap metal bin. When you hear a loud banging noise, your problems will be mostly better. But if you don't want to do that, I suggest getting a proper workshop grade scantool onto the Consult port and look for codes that might explain it. Some of the possibles I listed above should turn up that way, regardless of whether they originate in the ECU or the TCU.

My point was that if he has a separate core that is connected to the auto's original HX in the bottom tank.....then I didn't know what to make of that, because it sounds like a cludge.