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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    Grout fill is only done up to a certain height in an engine that needs to keep working for more than a 1/4 mile at a time. You can fully grout fill a drag only engine. But RBs and other engines that need a stiffen up to keep the bottom of the bored from moving or bowing outwards are done "up to the welsh plugs" or to similar levels. The coolant can still circulate above that, provided the grout doesn't go up as far as water pump ports, etc etc.
  2. GTSBoy
    Give or take, yes. You can't take it for granted though that the taller RB30 block is not inherently weaker due to the aspect ratio - like it would possibly need to be thicker to be equally resistant to deformation. Know what I mean? Shorter automatically = thicker.
  3. GTSBoy
    If you're saying that the engine suffered a loss of oil pressure, then your "turbo lifter repair" may actually be a repair instead of the usual "my lifters are noisy and sticky, how do I make them better" type question. Running them at revs with not enough oil could damage them to the point where there is no repair, just replace.
  4. GTSBoy
    You can't take sheer displacement out of the question. RB26 rods are shorter, which works massively in their favour. They (the rods) are also a stronger design (by a little bit). Oil squirters and other little differences all contribute. But, no there is no specialness added to the RB26 block that isn't really in the other RB engines. Mass produced.
  5. GTSBoy
    Jesus. H. Christ. I hope you have some heat management in mind. That one looks like a bonnet burner.
  6. GTSBoy
    Cams out, lifters out, disassemble/ bath/ clean according to many and various guides on the 'net, re-assemble, pre-lube, back into the engine, cams back in, cross fingers and hope it works. Is usually how it goes.
  7. GTSBoy
    Just back calculate a torque number from the power using the normal formula. It won't be numerically correct, but because it comes from the only thing that actually matters (power at the roller) at least you're starting from the same basis* and can draw graphs to compare. *of course, excepting the different dynos, operators, tyres, years in between, etc etc etc.
  8. GTSBoy
    TBH, any new rotor will do. Don't buy cast cardboard who-flung-dung brand of course, but decent RDA or DBA stuff, even stock grade replacement, is fine. Step up to their higher "rated" options as budget allows, keeping in mind that the benefits are not as large as the added cost. There are an enormous number of pads you could use. I would suggest Intima SR as being a reasonable choice. I have them on a 100% street car and they work great. They also stand up to a bit of track work. If you are worried about cooling/fading at the track, you can always bodge on some clothesdryer ducting to bring some extra cooling air to them. Drilled rotors look cool. That's about it though. They really don't offer anything to offset the risk of cracking. For a car that is 99% street like yours, there can hardly be any point. For a race car that is going to get new rotors every event or even during an event.....different story.
  9. GTSBoy
    I think his new setup has ringlands on the pistons.
  10. GTSBoy
    I don't know what the max is on a stock RB26 head. Or on any of the heads actually. This is one to do your own googling on, or ask a workshop who has a history of camming them up. There are a bunch of different limits imposed by the sides of the lifter bores, the binding point on the valve springs, the piston clearance.....and all of these can be altered by various mods. Putting in aggressive cams immediately points to putting in better valve springs, which can immediately alleviate the binding problem (for example). Beyond a certain lobe size you have to machine some clearance out of the top of the lifter bores. Different valve/piston clearance issues occur depending on overall cam timing. These are all best dealt with while playing with the engine in pieces or by trawling the already posted knowledge base on here and the rest of the net. I'm sure the stock limits are equally findable.
  11. GTSBoy
    That's no input shaft bearing. What is broken....I have no idea. But it is no longer suitable for the task at hand.
  12. GTSBoy
    Look. The actuator doesn't matter a shit. They're both 5 psi items. What matters is that your boost source is coming from somewhere wrong. The fact that there is no nipple to connect the boost control to on the intercooler pipework IS THE PROBLEM. Trace the connection back to where it comes from. if you cannot see/prove that it is 100% from upstream the throttle, with no solenoid valves or check valves or anything else in the way, then fix it. This will mean PUTTING A NIPPLE ONTO THE PIPEWORK. Which would be 100% what the doofus who installed it all should have done, and apparently didn't.
  13. GTSBoy
    And failing that.....the boost signal must be from the compressor housing, or some point on the turbo-intercooler-plenum pipework. Anywhere else is stupidly wrong.
  14. GTSBoy
    Yes you can. Lift is the answer to both. Longer duration + dialling them in to boost the midrange more than the top will also help both.
  15. GTSBoy
    Not radical, no.....but worthwhile.
  16. GTSBoy
    The very, very first step when diagnosing this shit is to put a fuel pressure gauge onto it and see what that is doing under load. It is cheap (free) and it takes 90 seconds to do. Speculating about the health of injectors is a waste of time before knowing this one fact. Yellow Jackets are also famously variable in their quality. Any set of 6 might be fine, but any one of them might be f**ked from the factory. Ergo, they are a waste of time and money.
  17. GTSBoy
    That's the 2nd time I've seen you post that. You do realise that there's "timing" and there's "timing" and they're not the same things, right? Cam gears are for valve timing.
  18. GTSBoy
    I think the answer to your question involves a sandwich plate.
  19. GTSBoy
    Depends. -5s, being big turbos, are really working at their best up high in the rev range. So if you were to take the view that your "best" cams are the ones that work in the same range, then you're looking for longer durations. 270° or maybe even more. But if you take the view that -5s are a miserable thing that leaves your engine gasping for torque until they come on boost, then you'd choose some smaller cams, maybe 260°, and dial them in to work well below the turbos' optimum range, to try to get them onto boost a fraction earlier. Either way, pack in as much lift as you can within budgetary limits. Usage model really helps here. Street or track?
  20. GTSBoy
    My thoughts are that once you get to the point of spending as much as you have to to put Evo brakes onto a car, that paying a little more for brand new equipment is probably worth serious consideration. There are plenty of people on here who have these or related brakes on their cars and love them. They use a common sized pad. And when the rotors need replacing you will probably find there are options available. I haven't looked into that part of it because I'm not looking for more braking.
  21. GTSBoy
    Isn't this the answer to your question?
  22. GTSBoy
    The other 2 wires on the O2 sensor are the ground and the heater. If you want to save a tiny amount of energy, you could just delete all 3 connections. Ground not needed with no signal, heater not needed with no usage.
  23. GTSBoy
    Just having Nistuned it will improve your economy. Lean out the cruise, add a few degrees of timing, take all the extra fuel dump out of the top end.
  24. GTSBoy
    Bunnings letterbox section?
  25. GTSBoy
    I think the solution might be to put 2 filters in parallel. the problem not necessarily being that the single filter is a bit blocked/dirty, just that the single filter is inherently a restriction when trying to shove that much E85 through it! If you can make it work with 2x filters in parallel, then it might be worth considering a less bodgy solution which is one of those massive fuel filters that use screw on cartridges like an oil filter.
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