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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. Any non-articulated arm is poison on an R32. Doesn't matter what length, what style of bush or bearing at the ends. All bad. The best, absolute best, option right now is this, based on the arms used in Group A GTRs back in the day. I have recently put some on my car and they are really good. As to coilovers.....my opinion is that any off the shelf brand name coilover is a bad choice. If you're going to follow my advice on the arms (and therefore be ordering something from Australia to be sent to you in Trumpistan) then you should also consult MCA here about options. Their stuff is properly developed from real motorsport experience, not hard as rocks poorly damped Jap struts.
  2. The Siemens Deka 60lb/hr ones are the only ones that I can think of. They need 6 bar to get there though. Actually, I take that back. They do an 80lb/h one too. And even Xspurt have an unmodified Bosch 950 3/4 don't they? Just not in the Neo section.
  3. The suggestion is to put new passthrough terminals onto the tank lid so as not to try to pass 1 bazzilion amps through the original ones. And then, yes, fat wires both sides.
  4. That car actually looks very very sound.
  5. I cheaped out and bought Prosport 52mm gauges. The Premium Series ones. They're pretty good, for cheapies. The ebay vendor I got the gauges from also had a sandwich plate, which I reckon is same same with this one. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Prosport-Oil-Filter-Sandwich-Plate-w-UNF-Fittings-Blanking-Plugs-High-Quality/112352624048?hash=item1a28bcfdb0:g:uYEAAOSw7L1Z0auR which is essentially the same as the 2nd one you linked.
  6. The factory ITBs are HUUUUUUUUUUGE compared to any reasonable size single throttle. At least the equivalent of a 100mm single, taking some extra wall friction and extra throttle plate obstruction into account.
  7. Various other options, like Deatschtschtschshwerks, but generally all about same same in terms of capabilities vs money, with Walbro stuff being ahead in the value stakes.
  8. 1. No, I don't think the 255 would be a good idea for E85 at that power level. 2. The newer ones are safe. The 255 isn't really big enough anyway, so the question is moot. 3. Yup. Reasonable choice. Downsides of a truly oversized pump are excessive heating of the fuel. The 460 isn't really all that oversized. If you were unlucky enough to experience any problems from hot fuel, you could plumb in a fuel cooler in the return, or invest in a voltage controller. 4. Don't buy from ebay. Buy from someone off here who you trust. Such as Scotty.
  9. Yuh, I wonder a lot of things about additives etc, too. Here in Adelaide, my car runs better on Shell98, but I used to stick to BP/Mobil (same stuff here).
  10. Hi Johnny, The answers to your questions are yes and yes. However, it wasn't always hot weather. Air temps on the road varied from well below 30 to nearly 40 last week. The normal idle control works very well to keep the idle at 600 since I cleaned and properly adjusted the valve some (long) time ago. In fact it was the previous occurrence of fuel related weirdness that prompted me to check the operation of the IAC when I found it idling at 5° back then. I didn't get a chance to put the laptop onto the car while it was doing it because I was invariably too rushed to do it. Kind of wish I had though, to be sure.
  11. Yuh, well, my initial thought was low octane. But it didn't ping at all. I've seen what happens when it gets a dose of fuel that is clearly not high enough octane. It pings like crazy on load. This lot didn't. And the car should fairly happily run 91 at idle and low load, but in this case would get really hot out the exhaust. Makes sense, it does not.
  12. Gentlemen, I present for you a mystery. The short version is; The tank of Shell 98 that I used last week, pretty much right from the beginning of the tank, until I filled it back up on Wednesday, ran really high EGT and in a really odd way. About 450km of this behaviour. I have EGT probe installed through a hole in the top of the turbine housing. Has been there for years. I'm very familiar with what sort of EGTs the car makes. It will settle to <400°C at idle. It will run at ~500-600°C just driving around. It will run >800°C when stomping it hard or driving it fastish up a steep hill. All normal. When it has had a problem in the past (like a bad batch of fuel I had once that caused it to detonate), the temperatures would go spastically high under load, as you'd expect when it's detonating. Last week, it would run up to 900-1000°C at odd times. Sitting at the lights it would continually climb until it got up there. Driving around it would do it. Stomp on it a bit and it would sometimes stay high, sometimes it would settle back to the ~600-700°C territory you might expect. It would also sometimes run normal EGT and sometimes idle down to the <400°C I like to shut it down at. Other times after pulling up to park it, the EGT would just continue to rise through 800°C. I must stress that I did not hear it ping at all. It also felt very normal. It drove the same, it idled at 600rpm, it was just as fast. It wasn't as if it was running a blocked injector and missing some of its fuel, etc etc. As soon as I put 50+ litres of fresh fuel in it, the car went 100% back to normal. So, theories on what would cause it to happen on a single tank of fuel? What could possibly be wrong with the fuel that would make the car seem normal in all other respects but run such high and odd EGTs? Back story on the fuel. I pretty much only use Shell 98, in Adelaide. Occasionally it gets BP98, but I can tell there is a tiny difference in how well it runs, so choose Shell. I use a number of Shell stations and maybe 10-20% of the time I use the one at Golden Grove. This tankful came from GG. The replacement tankful came from the Shell on Churchill Rd. I have occasionally been suspicious of the operation of the engine after fills at GG. Some fluffiness at idle, maybe some pinging (in fact, I think the tank that caused it to ping like a meth addict last year came from there). That sort of stuff. But only vague suspicions, nothing quite as convincing as last week. Has anyone else had a weird result from there, or any other servo in particular?
  13. Hi Marcus, I don't know all the details (not having played with push-pull conversions), but I'm pretty sure that the full story has been posted on here in the past. cheers
  14. The usual stuff done to toughen an auto gearbag. Better clutches and such, changes to the valvebody. You could probably ask them to source you one from a local wrecker and doctor it then send to you. It's gunna cost you some extra coins for their effort, but probably worth it to not have to try to source one yourself by remote. Don't just e-mail them either. Call them in the new year, (say after the 8th) in their morning - which would likely be early evening for you if you're on the east coast, or late afternoon if you're further west. Indicate that you sent them an e-mail on the subject and that you're fairly serious. You'll get ignored less than the usual "random e-mail from dream on other side of world" treatment I'm sure they've learned.
  15. Tranny needs to spend time in their workshop in order to benefit. It's not just "remove original valve body" and "plug in magic valve body".
  16. It needs to, otherwise there is zero point in making the manifold split pulse.
  17. Not to mention the roll centre problems, etc.
  18. Just call Scotty.
  19. Following up on this for posterity.
  20. Following up on this for posterity. I finally got back into the country & found enough time to fit the GKTech front upper control arms. These replaced factory arms that had polyurethane bushes @ inner end and polyurethane bushes with eccentric adjusters at the outer ends - the standard Whiteline/Superpro setup. These had been replaced several times over the last 15 years or so since originally installed, but not looked at too closely in the last few years. They were comprehensively f**ked. Bush distortion at each end was so severe that the inner end bolt and outer end bolt were at least 10mm out of parallel! I put the new FUCAs on, set to factory length (~180mm between bolt centres) as my best guess. Did not and have not yet gotten a wheel alignment to see where everything is. Will come back to that point. So, the car clearly had a compromised front end, not stock, not better than stock. The GKTech FUCAs are a massive improvement. The first thing I noticed is that at very low speeds under certain turning conditions (such as driving forwards out of my driveway), a scrubbing noise/feeling that I was getting for the longest time was now gone. So long term suspected suspension geometry wrongness confirmed, and now banished. The next thing I noticed is that there is a substantial increase in front end grip. Years of nagging wonder about why the car has a basic understeer characteristic, despite having lots of good money spent on many parts of the suspension, completely explained by replacing twisted crap with straight good stuff. No noticeable increase in NVH. Probably should have expected this, at least until some wear turns up in the rod ends & bearings on these arms. And especially compared to the creaky/squeaky nature of the urethane bushes, even with grease nipples added. Suspension compliance seems at least as good as before. Placebo effect makes me think it feels better than before, but there's not really a lot to suggest that the old bushes put up any additional resistance over the 5+kg front springs. On the subject of alignment - my guess of putting them in at stock length seems fine for the moment. I appear to have >1° -ve camber, but not a lot more than that. It seems even both sides. The toe might have been altered from what it was before, because the top end of the upright is now in a completely different place (fore-aft) than it was before with the rooted poly bushes. Nevertheless, the car drives straight and the steering wheel is straight. My tyres are >75% worn, so I will watch how they wear before deciding what to do about alignment going forwards. I probably should mention that I have adjustable caster rods on the front that put a lot of tension into the upper arm's bushes and probably contribute to their getting stuffed. This same tension is what I think makes the suspension less compliant than it should be (with normal upper arms, not the twisty GKTech ones), and what leads me to expect the suspension to work better now. Cliff's notes: 2 thumbs up.
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