Jump to content
SAU Community

GTSBoy

Admin
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    19,084

  • Joined

  • Days Won

    314

  • Feedback

    100%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    It's not the size of the core. It's the end tanks and pipework that cost flow and increase pressure drop. The increased pressure drop reports to increased exhaust manifold pressure (from increased work required to drive the compressor) and thus limits how much boost turns into flow. Negatives feed on negatives.
  2. GTSBoy
    Well, you chose your turbo. It's able to go to the upper end of your stated power range. But your fuel pump will maybe no get there and the intercooler will start to cost you. There is a whole lot of discussion on these very points in this very thread.
  3. GTSBoy
    Walbro 255 is going to be marginal at those power levels. Look to an upgrade. Nistune BEFORE. Not after. Why use crappy old JECS injectors? Especially if you have to buy them! Go straight to the ~720cc unmodified EV14s for 98 octane use. These will be juuuuust large enough for E85, but injectors will be near 100% or you will need more fuel pressure. Of course you will also need a rail, but it is worth it to get away from those crappy old side-feeds. Blitz return flow will start to have high pressure drop by the time you reach the bottom of your power range.
  4. GTSBoy
    Quaife front diff + Nismo 2-way at the rear.
  5. GTSBoy
    Oh, yeah, it all makes sense. I'm just saying that there are reasons for the way things got done, and some of those reasons are less valid than they used to be. F'rigsample, I wouldn't buy 1000cc injectors if I could use say the native 725s + more base pressure with a decent speed controlled pump. Get better atomisation via more than one mechanism.
  6. GTSBoy
    Neither the Z32 nor the S13 have the same stuff. The Z32 turbo is an R230 diff with big 6 stud flanges. So will not be the same. The S13 turbo is an R200 like the R32, but has 3x2 bolt flanges. But I think that the internals parts of the output shafts are same same, so C clips from one should suit the other.
  7. GTSBoy
    Well, the main reason that various people have been keeping fuel pressures lower than ideal for atomisation is that many of the usual suspect fuel pumps don't maintain the same capacity as the pressures go up. Now that we have a wider selection of bigger pumps, people could choose to use more pressure again.
  8. GTSBoy
    Depends on how far open the AAC valve is. If that was 90% open, to compensate for not having any base flow through the screw, then your idle control system won't have much scope to increase the idle when it really needs to. Unless you have big cams, you should consider controlling the idle speed back to ~600rpm. You will surprised how much fuel it saves if you spend time in traffic.
  9. GTSBoy
    I reckon Dattoman or one of the other brake gurus back at PF posted very useful stuff about working it all out many years ago.
  10. GTSBoy
    Check out the YouTube video from the MotiveDVD guys on the one in a GTR. Street drive.
  11. GTSBoy
    Well, there's only one of a few things that can be happening here. 1. You have stock steering wheel. There is only one orientation in which the drive pin from the sensor will engage in the stock boss. Therefore it cannot be put together wrongly unless the wheel is seriously not straight with the wheels dead ahead. 2. You have an aftermarket wheel with a HICAS compatible boss. Assuming it's the right boss for the car (see GH05t's post above) then I suppose some cretin could have bolted the wheel onto the boss 1 or more bolts out of alignment. 2a. But if this was the case, then you simply could not drive it more than about 10km without the HICAS computer going into a panic anyway. So if your HICAS is working properly, then there is nothing wrong. If the sensor is wrong, then the HICAS that you claim to like is probably not working any time anyway (and someone probably either pulled the globe or pulled the plug from the HICAS computer).
  12. GTSBoy
    I'm in our US office this week. A day after saying unkind things about Porsches there has been a GT$ parked outside my window all day and I've had to pretend to ignore it. Lovely looking thing from behind. Back to the point at hand though.....Balance bar and 2 masters. Do it right. Pedal feel will be umpty bazzillion times better. There is no reason to expect the pedal effort to be too high if you get the pedal ratio and master/caliper piston sizes matched properly. This might take more than a guess to get right though.
  13. GTSBoy
    The drive pin on it only engages the boos in one orientation. You can't f**k it up. My advice is to remove it, stomp it to pieces, then fit the required HICAS eliminator kit.
  14. GTSBoy
    Man cars don't have boosters.
  15. GTSBoy
    It's a hot wire air flow meter. It works by running a current through a wire (or a transistor) and monitoring the temperature of that wire (or transistor). Then the current is controlled up and down to maintain the temperature of the sensing element. Heat is lost to the air flowing past the element based on the mass flow rate of air. More air flow = more heat loss -- more current required to maintain the temperature. In a turbo inlet position, the air is at atmospheric pressure, so is moving faster for any given mass flow rate. In an IC pipe, the air (at high flow rates) is at whatever the boost pressure is. Higher pressure = lower velocity for any given pipe size. Could be double or triple the density of atmospheric air. Regardless of what the pressure is though, the local air mass flow rate past the sensing element is what the AFM is reading. More air = more blah blah blah, as above.
  16. GTSBoy
    Ideally the torque curve comes up to the "peak" value as early as possible and stays there, flat, until the redline. This is not usually completely achievable. On turbo engines especially, you don't get anywhere near peak torque until you have all the boost. And at the top end, as any air flow restrictions (ie turbine housing) start to take effect, torque will drop off. A completely flat torque curve gives you a linearly rising power curve. Turbo engines usually have a rather more savage arrival of both torque and power at the point where the boost arrives, meaning that the power curve is often very low and flat, followed by very steep, followed by a more linear section once boost is stable, followed by a drop off if the torque curve suffers as mentioned above.
  17. GTSBoy
    You don't need 4" pipe for the AFM sensor when it is post turbo. You only need 4" pipe when upstream the turbo so as to avoid creating restriction and hence low pressure at the turbo inlet. It will work (ie can be calibrated) in whatever size IC piping.
  18. GTSBoy
    It's heinously expensive though, for $500 worth of coils, a mounting plate and some different plug boots.
  19. GTSBoy
    Denso >> *
  20. GTSBoy
    Also keep in mind that a car trailer + R33 is unlikely to be within the legal towing weight limits. Plenty of people say "not a problem", but that's not what insurance companies say after you have a whoopsie.
  21. GTSBoy
    Assuming that the charts are not backwardly labelled or some other issue, then the power is flat because the torque curve is falling off. The engine is not making torque after 125 on the speed scale. If the problem is not in the tune (which would have to be timing) then it must be flow limited. The nasty wiggle in the AFR at 125 should be ironed out, but that's not a huge issue. In short, this is not a normal setup.
  22. GTSBoy
    Surely the R34 wiring diagrams are googlable?
  23. GTSBoy
    Well, obviously you need to bypass the resistor pack. Either do it manually or wimp out and buy a pre-built module.
  24. GTSBoy
    One is a square number, one is the same number as most people have fingers or toes. The other is prime.
  25. GTSBoy
    Genuine pain in the arse.
×
×
  • Create New...