GTSBoy

If you place a solenoid valve somewhere between the pump and the nozzle, then pulse it and vary/modulate the pulse width, then you are creating a second "nozzle" in the system - a variable nozzle. This nozzle will cause a pressure drop. Extreme examples. 1) You pulse the solenoid closed and leave it close. The pressure drop is total, no pressure downstream and no flow through the injection nozzle. 2) You pulse the solenoid open and leave it open. You get full pressure on the injection nozzle and full flow (assuming that the open valve is no significant restriction. Assume that pulsing the valve 50% duty cycle results in a significant reduction in flow. If it does, it only does so because the pressure behind the nozzle is similarly reduced (although the pressure change is larger because of Bernoulli). It's not polite - the pressure will in fact pulse up and down around the lower average value.

I'm with all them ^. And you have no option but to use a Neo head, should you get to the point of replacing it. An R33 head will not work.

E85 safe injectors are probably getting close to being the right thing. Stainless internals, etc, blah, corrosion resistance, etc.....all the things that used to make normal fuel injectors last about 30 minutes on WMI.

Screws that you can only see by looking upwards from below.

Hot and cold sides swap. Neo stuff is better....certainly the Neo inlet suits the Neo head ports better. But they do swap. You do want to be careful that the 30/25 Neo has been built correctly. Right piston choice, etc. Mistakes have been made by others that result in stupid compression ratios.

VCT all the way. If you're only revving to 8, then the area under the curve has to start as early as possible.

Just feed the ign+ that you didn't want to run it from through a relay that is pulled open by the starter signal. The relay will sit on the NC contacts any time you're not cranking and will not run the pump while you do crank. All that other wizardry will only lead to pain. Which is the path to the dark side.

The ignition switch does a lot of switching. One part feeds the ignition, another part feeds the starter motor. They both have to work.

Close your eyes and picture an EVO, but with a stupid looking gap in the middle of the bar is where the cutout for the number plate is. That's what it will look like.

and do a search for the 3 bazzillion threads with the same problem and all the solutions.

Injectors are 3x the size of the originals. 3x the amount of fuel is just a liiiiiiiiiiiittle too much.

It seems as though one confirmation of GG's oddness will do. I shall blacklist them immediately (backdated to 2 weeks ago).

It would appear that your housings may have been rotated for some reason.

Should we assume the price is $3.50 each, plus a reptile tank?

It's happening on many ozzie forums right now. Same same. There must have been an exploit on an older version of the 2 main board packages and the harvested addresses have only just gone into the (appropriate) spam lists.

Just use rubber. Original rubber stuff lasted 15+ years before it started to shit itself. You will have any RB26 in pieces 3 times in that span of years from now onwards. Plenty of opportunities to check it.

Yup, welcome to Jap import life. To be clear, you should NEVER trust the indicated kms on the odo on any import. Everybody here has known about it for 20+ years. It's a fact of life.

Make sure the jack is snug in its spot. Same with the toolbag.

We could quote you several lines from your first post that come across exactly that way. Hence the response.

$1800 per day plus travel expenses.

How nice it is to read something written by someone who can see both the wood and trees!

This is where I get to laugh at you. I am quite likely older than you. I am a combustion engineer. I mean that literally. I work for one of the best combustion companies in the world. Big burners. I know how to burn EVERYTHING. We treat methanol as a waste fuel (in pulp & paper mills for example). I can tell you that I have the ability to design a WI or WMI system on the scale of your little engine, or I can design one (like the WI system I designed for a pair of natural gas fired rotary kiln burners for NOx control) at the 80+MW range. You should just get back in your box. You're not playing with teenagers here, f**kwit. We know that WMI and E85 are damn near equivalent. One eyed cloud yelling like you've been doing is just funny.

Yuh, me too, except substitute Shell for Mobil, because that's what works better here. You have to keep in mind that different cities get the various branded fuels from different sources. Many are the same, but they're not all. I might have to do a number of tanks of BP or Mobil to see how it goes. It's been some time since I switched to near 100% Shell.

OH FFS. You can run out of magic boost juice in your auxiliary tank as easily as you can run out of E85. The consequences are the same. And it's not WI that you're talking about. You are frothing over WMI, which, if you look very closely, is mostly a fuel, not water. And it is nowhere near as easy to pick up a random bottle of methanol when you empty your tank as it is to get water. Worse, all of your vaunted integrated engine protection systems can easily be fooled by filling your magic boost juice tank with water alone, instead of WM, and then you run lean and it all goes to shit quickly. As Johnny said, we may be dumb dream boats, but at least we're not one eyed dumb dream boats.

Wow. So much stupid.