GTSBoy

200 ms is nothing. Worry not.

Neo head chamber is ~10cc smaller than normal 25. Will lead to V.LARGE.COMPRESSION on pistons suited to vanilla head. 26 head will sit on 25 block, because the bore is the same. 26 head bolts are larger. You will need to drill out the block and retap for larger bolts. Slightly lower compression can be compensated for with a little less head gasket thickness, a little material skimmed off the head or with more boost. I am sure, though, that there are likely to be some other traps to deal with if trying this. Lack of VCT would be a good reason to not do it, even though the 26 head flows better than a 25 head straight up and is therefore going to make better power. The area under the curve might still lean towards a 25 head because of the VCT.

Nissan bushings do not look like those big fat black things in your first photo. A stock Nissan setup looks like the 2nd photo, with what looks like gaps, and those cups hanging about in the open. If your bushes don't look like Nissan original, and appear to have integrated pineapple rings, then all bets are off when it comes to advice, unless someone here has used that type of bush before. Where did you get them? What manufacturer are they?

What do you mean "extra"? My R32 has 3 along the parcel shelf.

Ask Johnny Dosepipe.

Are you talking about the actual subframe bushes (which are large, metal clad rubber things that need to be pressed in and out of the sockets in the subframe) or are you talking about some sort of pineapple rings that go on in addition to the bushes? I ask, because what I see in your first photo appears to be pineapple rings, and your second photo appears to be "as Nissan intended" - ie, without pineapple rings, albeit the blue colour inside suggests that they're not factory type bushes.

There are 2 sorts of engineers. The document obsessed ones, who can't get anything right without a documented procedure and QA checklist, and the other sort, who just get shit done. But the reality here is that big intercoolers are very seldom called upon to act as a steady state heat exchanger. They heat up, then they cool down, and a lot of the "cool down" heat goes back into the air flowing through the inside after the boost event. So, with respect to the usage model, any negative effect on external convective heat transfer from having a layer of paint is further reduced. The other big thing is that you usually don't get a lot of pain onto the fins further into the core, so they are still mostly bare aluminium, and that's where the external heat exchange occurs anyway. The tanks and the front of the tubes are not so important. And lastly, the black is massively better for radiation heat transfer than clean ally, so even though the temperatures are nowhere near high enough for radiation to be a large proportion of the total heat transfer, the fact that radiation is improved probably goes at least part way to offsetting any reduction in convection, and for all I know might even be better.

Don't worry about it. This is coming from an engineer too. So just trust me.

There's really only 1 size at which BSP and NPT screw together properly. That's 1/2". It's not that they're exactly the same.....they are just the same to within the tolerances of the thread specs. Other sizes, like 3/4, just go together like a single turn, or maybe 2, before they jam up. 1/8" NPT has an outside (tips of the threads) diameter of 0.405". That's 10.3mm (close enough). The thread pitch is 27 per inch. That's really close to 1mm pitch (but it's not!). So it looks like M10x1.0, because M10 is like 0.35mm smaller than 1/8" NPT, and there's no way that your average dinkus can see the difference between 25.4 tpi and 27 tpi. But the profile of the threads are not the same.....so trying to screw them together is not a recipe for the threads to work the way they are supposed to and get you a good seal.

Um.....MAC valves (the typical 35 series that are usually used in cars, and actually, most of the smaller MAC valves) are 1/8" NPT. As you'd expect for an American product. The 3/4" drain in an RB26 block, on the other hand, is sooooooo unlikely to be NPT (being Japanese, who realistically use BSP for everything).

Um wot? "Rolling" shell implies you have a metric f**kton of work to do to make any engine +/or gearbox start working. The fact that it started life as an auto is more or less meaningless in the face of all that.

OK, let's be clear. The Nissan ECUs of that era are (almost all) EEPROM based, so you can burn new EEPROMs and jam them in there. But these days we just install a Nistune daughterboard which makes the ECU fully programmable. Originally this was about as good as PowerFC + a little bit. These days Nistune is much better even than that. But you still don't need to be doing even that.

Could also be a lot of paki vaping taxi drivers in the back seat.

But the back half of the motor is definitely sad compared to the front half, so I would not think this motor has a long future without being opened.

I would suggest that the usage model described means that you shouldn't bother doing anything.

No help from me on the reo, but have you considered that these tend to look funny with wide front guards and narrow rear?

I'm with Lithium. I'd be looking to the mixed flow turbine.

There's no such thing as "scavenging effect" in the 2x dump pipes on a GTR. The exhaust pressure pulses are extremely softened by the turbines. They do not arrive at the downstream merge as pulses with energy to drive scavenging from the other pipe.

That's true.... at home. On the phone, lack of storage makes it difficult to keep the full library.....and besides which, it's a fugging phone and phone headphones. In the car....just as bad. Not too many headunits play FLACs, and the audio environment is really not deserving of it.

Um, stackers are the devil's work and come from a time when we didn't have any choice in how to get more music capacity into a car. Take it out, wrap it in bubble wrap and enjoy the benefits of high bitrate MP3s in your new headunit.

Yes, but not in the way that you might think. Superchargers into old Celicas and stuff, yes. I have never (and will never) attempt to improve a FWD shitter. Been in too many fast Cordias back in the day to want to relive those nightmares.

Yeah, it's not going to fit into any car made since the 90s really - except F trucks and the like. There's not enough room in the engine bay for something that chunky, and typical FWD chassis are only worse. Think about trying to put a big 3-4" supercharger pulley on the front end of a FWD engine in the 3mm gap between the existing one and the chassis rail. The reality is that this is a very niche product. For that market, it's great. For the general market, not so much. There's a reason why real hybrids either sandwich the e-motor between the engine and transmission or go the whole hog and use wheel motors. Packaging.

These things have a weaksauce exhaust housing that's unique to the VQs. There aren't too many easy upgrades. I'm sure that Hypergear (Melbourne) would be able to make it new & better for you. You could probably get it rebuilt in Sydney too, but given the usual suspects in Syd, I'd still talk to Hypergear first.

Find a way to space it up off the coil cover, to keep it cooler. I used longer bolts and some stainless tube as standoffs.

First you train your team of Capucin monkeys.