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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    No, the HICAS solenoids are the big arse lumps just in front of the driver's side axle. Hydraulic pipes coming down the chassis rail to them from the front, flexibles going out of them to the HICAS rack. This image of an S13 shows it, correctly named, as the "fail-safe valve".
  2. GTSBoy
    Of course people are still using it, for the same reason you would prefer it over e85.
  3. GTSBoy
    Push out crush tube. Align as per how you want it, push it back in. With fresh lube. As I said, the reality is that they offer little real adjustment. if you want them dialled in to slight differences side to side, you couldn't hope to know/guess what they were actually delivering anyway, because the caster you get on each side of the car could be affected by a number of other things (such as whether the subframe is straight in the car, state of the upper and lower arm bushes, etc etc. So the best you can do would be to make them as short as possible, put them in, and then get it put on a wheel aligner and see what you got. If it's not to your liking, get one of them re-adjusted slightly longer to to give you the change [you/your wheel alignment guy] [want/need] (strike out whichever is inapplicable).
  4. GTSBoy
    What he said. The way they are has nothing to do with how they will go in. The reality is, these things offer about 1/3 of the adjustment you really need, so just set them both to the shortest and install them. Then drive away happy.
  5. GTSBoy
    Um....that's why good dampers have lots of multi-rate valve stacks inside, so that they can handle a range of piston rates. So if a non-adjustable damper like a Bilstein can handle a >15% change in spring rate without breaking a sweat, then an adjustable damper should shit it in. And if it can't then you'd throw it in the bin. That's all I'm saying.
  6. GTSBoy
    I would not be changing springs until all the other things have been tried and tested. After that, then your question above becomes worth considering. Keep in mind also that the spring rates are really about keeping the wheels on the ground when handling the bumps on the surface that you drive on. If the car is riding properly, then there would be no reason to change the springs in order to change the handling balance. You could do that with the auxiliary devices (bars, tyre pressures, alignment, etc). So if you work through the other things we've talked about, spent some more time in the car happier with the balance, you will then be able to concentrate on the question of whether the overall spring rate is right at each end (purely bump handling), before considering whether to change those and then have to go through the effort of balancing the car again.
  7. GTSBoy
    I would guess the fact that many people have changed springs on BCs without the world burning down afterwards. From my perspective, I would suggest that any "adjustable" damper like is in a BC should be able to swallow a 15% spring rate change (like going from 6 to 5 kg). If it could not, then you would rightly declare them to be SHITE and should never consider using them. I mean, an off the shelf, non-adjustable Bilstein damper will swallow a massive range of different spring rates.....because quality design and manufacturing.
  8. GTSBoy
    Yes, you probably need to try it again, get some video of the car in corner to assess* the roll and tyre angle and also get a IR pyrometer onto the tyres to see where they are getting hot. *well, maybe help assess. But, the other big thought mentioned by others above is the pressures. Way low pressure like you had will lead to the sidewall collapsing, so your test conditions were probably ruined by that and maybe you shouldn't try to take too much out of the experience until you can do it again with more pressure. Or better yet, new tyres and more pressure.
  9. GTSBoy
    I agree with most of the sensible advice up above. But keep in mind a couple of these points with ref the ARBs and you choice of camber. If you stiffen the rear bar, then maybe the -3° you have at the front can stay. But if you soften the front bar, think about reducing the front camber. You are supposed to run more and more camber when the chassis is stiffer and stiffer because a stiff car stands the tyre up more. A softer car compresses the suspension over the outside tyre instead of standing the tyre up. A random thought associated with this is that the Federals are probably just too old, as has been said, and that they probably won't like the camber anyway.
  10. GTSBoy
    This. So much this. And when it comes to bleeding.....several times we have had to jack the front of my car up whilst bleeding the cooling system to convince it to burp the last air out of it. Even a fancy bleeding funnel into the radiator was not as good as jacking it up. It is also worth having several goes at bleeding it up with short drives in between, just to try to shake lose the problem spot.
  11. GTSBoy
    All the "non serious" answers are the correct answers. We shall not speak of this again.
  12. GTSBoy
    R&R won't cause the car to stall off boost. You have left a big leak somewhere in your pipework, or some similar mistake. A 10 psi actuator will not cause you any trouble, it will just cause the full load mixtures to be very rich, and the car to be slower than it should at that boost (due to the other half of R&R).
  13. GTSBoy
    Why would you hesitate to get Splitfires? That's nonsense talk. They are the best option other than OEM, likely to be 99% as good. Even OEM from Nissan is not as good as the original coils that were put in back in the 90s. All I was saying when I said " Splitfires aren't magical - they age like anything else" is exactly what I wrote. They aren't immune from the same issues as any other coil, meaning they can have the odd faulty one from new, and they WILL age. I have a high load miss in my car right now - have to try to diagnose it soon. It could be my Splitfires.....they've been in the engine for years, one or more of them might be going off. Doesn't mean that they are not a good coil. And, for those willing to do a little more work, there are plenty of other coils you could put in your car. LS2 coils, Yaris coils, and dozens of others.
  14. GTSBoy
    It's all the possible things. Could definitely be coils. Splitfires aren't magical - they age like anything else. Coils will usually run the engine fine and misfire on boost. Could be a dirty or otherwise wrong injector. Lean misfire when the fuel rates rise. Could be the igniter if you have one. Could be the fuel pump is soft. Or the FPR might be stuck open and it's going lean from that. Etc.
  15. GTSBoy
    Oh, I'm sure slots still have a use in rally cars or on taxis (to clear water crossing mud from the one and machining the diamonds from underarm stinky drivers who have both feet on both pedals all the time.
  16. GTSBoy
    Grout fill is only done up to a certain height in an engine that needs to keep working for more than a 1/4 mile at a time. You can fully grout fill a drag only engine. But RBs and other engines that need a stiffen up to keep the bottom of the bored from moving or bowing outwards are done "up to the welsh plugs" or to similar levels. The coolant can still circulate above that, provided the grout doesn't go up as far as water pump ports, etc etc.
  17. GTSBoy
    Give or take, yes. You can't take it for granted though that the taller RB30 block is not inherently weaker due to the aspect ratio - like it would possibly need to be thicker to be equally resistant to deformation. Know what I mean? Shorter automatically = thicker.
  18. GTSBoy
    If you're saying that the engine suffered a loss of oil pressure, then your "turbo lifter repair" may actually be a repair instead of the usual "my lifters are noisy and sticky, how do I make them better" type question. Running them at revs with not enough oil could damage them to the point where there is no repair, just replace.
  19. GTSBoy
    You can't take sheer displacement out of the question. RB26 rods are shorter, which works massively in their favour. They (the rods) are also a stronger design (by a little bit). Oil squirters and other little differences all contribute. But, no there is no specialness added to the RB26 block that isn't really in the other RB engines. Mass produced.
  20. GTSBoy
    Jesus. H. Christ. I hope you have some heat management in mind. That one looks like a bonnet burner.
  21. GTSBoy
    Cams out, lifters out, disassemble/ bath/ clean according to many and various guides on the 'net, re-assemble, pre-lube, back into the engine, cams back in, cross fingers and hope it works. Is usually how it goes.
  22. GTSBoy
    Just back calculate a torque number from the power using the normal formula. It won't be numerically correct, but because it comes from the only thing that actually matters (power at the roller) at least you're starting from the same basis* and can draw graphs to compare. *of course, excepting the different dynos, operators, tyres, years in between, etc etc etc.
  23. GTSBoy
    TBH, any new rotor will do. Don't buy cast cardboard who-flung-dung brand of course, but decent RDA or DBA stuff, even stock grade replacement, is fine. Step up to their higher "rated" options as budget allows, keeping in mind that the benefits are not as large as the added cost. There are an enormous number of pads you could use. I would suggest Intima SR as being a reasonable choice. I have them on a 100% street car and they work great. They also stand up to a bit of track work. If you are worried about cooling/fading at the track, you can always bodge on some clothesdryer ducting to bring some extra cooling air to them. Drilled rotors look cool. That's about it though. They really don't offer anything to offset the risk of cracking. For a car that is 99% street like yours, there can hardly be any point. For a race car that is going to get new rotors every event or even during an event.....different story.
  24. GTSBoy
    I think his new setup has ringlands on the pistons.
  25. GTSBoy
    I don't know what the max is on a stock RB26 head. Or on any of the heads actually. This is one to do your own googling on, or ask a workshop who has a history of camming them up. There are a bunch of different limits imposed by the sides of the lifter bores, the binding point on the valve springs, the piston clearance.....and all of these can be altered by various mods. Putting in aggressive cams immediately points to putting in better valve springs, which can immediately alleviate the binding problem (for example). Beyond a certain lobe size you have to machine some clearance out of the top of the lifter bores. Different valve/piston clearance issues occur depending on overall cam timing. These are all best dealt with while playing with the engine in pieces or by trawling the already posted knowledge base on here and the rest of the net. I'm sure the stock limits are equally findable.
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