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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. Yup, welcome to Jap import life. To be clear, you should NEVER trust the indicated kms on the odo on any import. Everybody here has known about it for 20+ years. It's a fact of life.
  2. Make sure the jack is snug in its spot. Same with the toolbag.
  3. We could quote you several lines from your first post that come across exactly that way. Hence the response.
  4. How nice it is to read something written by someone who can see both the wood and trees!
  5. This is where I get to laugh at you. I am quite likely older than you. I am a combustion engineer. I mean that literally. I work for one of the best combustion companies in the world. Big burners. I know how to burn EVERYTHING. We treat methanol as a waste fuel (in pulp & paper mills for example). I can tell you that I have the ability to design a WI or WMI system on the scale of your little engine, or I can design one (like the WI system I designed for a pair of natural gas fired rotary kiln burners for NOx control) at the 80+MW range. You should just get back in your box. You're not playing with teenagers here, f**kwit. We know that WMI and E85 are damn near equivalent. One eyed cloud yelling like you've been doing is just funny.
  6. Yuh, me too, except substitute Shell for Mobil, because that's what works better here. You have to keep in mind that different cities get the various branded fuels from different sources. Many are the same, but they're not all. I might have to do a number of tanks of BP or Mobil to see how it goes. It's been some time since I switched to near 100% Shell.
  7. OH FFS. You can run out of magic boost juice in your auxiliary tank as easily as you can run out of E85. The consequences are the same. And it's not WI that you're talking about. You are frothing over WMI, which, if you look very closely, is mostly a fuel, not water. And it is nowhere near as easy to pick up a random bottle of methanol when you empty your tank as it is to get water. Worse, all of your vaunted integrated engine protection systems can easily be fooled by filling your magic boost juice tank with water alone, instead of WM, and then you run lean and it all goes to shit quickly. As Johnny said, we may be dumb dream boats, but at least we're not one eyed dumb dream boats.
  8. No. Button clutches are not friendly. The Nismo twin is a spring centre full face clutch. Sprung centre = cushion. Button = harsh Full face = nicer to use Twin = plenty of grip
  9. The CAS would need to be quite broken. If you haven't/can't isolate it to the CAS or any other part of the top end, use a lump of wood as a stethoscope and try to find the noisiest part.
  10. It won't detonate running no load, unless one of the injectors is spraying only a tiny % of what it is supposed to. And even then, I wouldn't expect it to ping so that you could hear it and think it was mechanical noise. And it will also be very unlikely to ping audibly on E85 anyway.
  11. I think you miss the point. EGT was weird for 1 tank of fuel. Then back to normal.
  12. I put mine in the turbine inlet. On the actual turbine housing, just downstream of the flange. Stock Nissan housing hanging off of stock manifold. Because the manifold is "divided", the first best* place for a single TC is in the turbo itself. Also has the benefit of being relatively easy to get off and do the drilling and tapping without worrying about swarf going places it shouldn't. *best because you see true EGT, before the turbo has sucked anything out of it. Not being willing to stick the TC tip too far into the flow, though, it's not a 100% ideal installation. You'd be more willing to shove it 15mm or so into the flow in the dump. I've just got about a 5mm insertion of the tip.
  13. You found a 6 year old thread but didn't find any of the millions of recent threads where the best answer is the Nismo twin?
  14. CV, diff CW&P or internal gears, tailshaft centre bearing. Any and all of these things.
  15. The ECCS relay is getting its power pulled off. It's probably not wired up correctly. Once you start the engine there is supposed to be a signal out of the ECU to keep the ECU itself on. When you shut the engine off, the ECU keeps that signal on for some time after, then kills it, which kills the ECCS relay which properly kills the ECU.
  16. I thought they did the thread change at both ends.
  17. Ignoring the whole 12mm / 14mm thread thing?
  18. I'm laughing my arse off right here.
  19. You're going to need pistons. The RB26 is olde schoole RB style combustion chamber. The Neo is neu schule combustion chamber design. Smaller volume, flatter valve face angle. With both the 25Neo and the 26 using the exact same rod from the factory, despite the different stroke, it should be very clear that the piston pin heights are different between the engines. So trying to use 26 pistons under a Neo head is likely to lead to wrongness. But you can't use Neo pistons (to suit the head) in the 26 block because they end up at the wrong height. Your dummy assembly and measurements should show you where stuff is finishing up and where the problems are. Break out the burette and do your own CR measurements. Do not molest the combustion chamber, trying to find extra volume. It would defeat the purpose of using the Neo head in the first place (apart from the obvious VCT benefit). You're going to need pistons.
  20. Heavy oil, lighter oils (like industrial diesels), gas, coal, petcoke - all as main fuels on their own or co-fired. Plus alternative fuels like waste oils & solvents, sewage sludge, Refuse Derived Materials (RDF, C&I waste, etc), biomass like rice husks, sunflower husks, grape mark, nut shells.
  21. Funny you should say that.......because I am a combustion engineer. Just on a somewhat more massive scale. My fuel injectors are rated in megawatts.
  22. I would have needed the laptop hooked up to see any AFR info. I don't have a wideband and my cute little 0-1v meter hasn't been hooked up since I had to replace the O2 sensor. Times like these I wish I wasn't so lazy! I did stop and pop the bonnet once when I was driving at ~80km/h (which is not really a high load) with 800°C indicated but nothing was glowing, nor did the amount of heat near the exhaust feel outrageous. I looked under there a couple of times when I pulled up at home with high temps at idle, with same non-result. I can imagine hot gas inside the manifold/turbine/dump not having enough mass flow to heat the metal bits up enough to make them glow if it's only at idle/cruise loads, so this probably isn't really useful data anyway. I would probably have needed to put it on the dyno - give it some moderate load and both see the manifold and watch the AFRs. If this bullshit behaviour had continued onto the next tank of fuel I would have gone out of my way to do that. Because then it would have been clear that the car had something odd going on. But the instant change on the fresh tank made it dead clear that it was the fuel.
  23. Oh, yeah, oops I wasn't thinking about the split spray. FWIW, I can't imagine that the benefit of split spray is worth more than 2/10 of f**k all.
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