GTSBoy

Surely Hypergear would take 3sec to supply this?

10 psi on the actuator, plus the possible 2 psi from the bleed. Enough to send the Neo ECU into R&R anyway.

Well, yes, it's a pull type. Unless perchance someone has changed it to push, which has happened once or twice. best you get underneath and check which it is before proceeding. The other question is.....what is the usage model? Can't recommend you a triple plate monster clutch for a stock replacement. Likewise won't recommend a cheapy exide based clutch for something that really needs a Nismo twin plate.

Well, maybe it is for you Johnny, but there would be reasons for that. This guy's main web surfing history might be needlepoint and crochet, in which case Track-Life might come further down the list. Nevertheless.....

You didn't specify which ATR43 turbo. they are variously able to do up to 600HP (engine). 550cc injectors are able to support around 550HP on 98 (give or take). So there is a reasonable match between your injectors and the likely size of your turbo. You will not be able to run E85 unless you restrict yourself to the ~400HP territory of the ATR43G1, because they won't have the flow needed. My thoughts? If you want to play with E85 then f**k off those 550s and put in some 1000cc EV14 based injectors. It will cost you a little to do, but then the injectors will not be a problem. if you don't want to play with E85, then just keep them, even though they are likely to be old shitty tech and EV14s will shit all over them from a great height. As to the power limits.....Most of the mods you have made make no difference. TB, plenum etc are all of no use at these power levels. You will be able to make as much power as the turbo can support. The limits will be imposed by the turbo, the injectors, the health of the ignition coils. You can make 300rwkW on an unopened RB25 easily enough, plenty on here have done so. That's up in the same territory as the turbo and the injectors. Sensible part of the refresh you did on the motor would have to have been a decent head gasket? And you really should have put ARP head studs in too. If you haven't, you still can.

Op is in the US Fatz. They talk diff'rent over there.

I was going to say "Auto ECU gives no fark for which gearbag is hanging behind it." And that would be true for all other Nissans, but there's something different with those Stageas and I don't know if it would also be true for them. I will therefore hope that someone else loves Stageas enough to know.....because I don't.

Unplug the AFMs. Then you will know what "safe mode" feels like.

No value other than knowing. Not at all useful, except as above, for knowledge.

Nope. Coils is just a misfire. ECU is not that clever.

Coilpacks or some other electronics packing the shits when they get hot enough would be my guess.

That's just it....it doesn't use IAT for those things. Most Nissan ECUs from the era (like all other RBs that is) don't even have an IAT!

The RB26 IAT sensor is not really doing a good job of measuring the air temperature. It really reflects the plenum temperature, which is often a lot hotter than the air. For this reason, the RB26 ECU doesn't look at the IAT for any normal fuel-air or timing input. It's really only there for the ECU to go into a panic if it get seriously hot. So before getting too worried about the IAT sensor, the infometer, or anything else, I'd suggest slipping a skinny wired thermocouple bead under a hose clamp after the intercooler and try to measure the air temperature more directly. Or install a proper IAT if you want to go banzai on it.

If you're really talking 1000Hp as a target, then you don't have the option of keeping the duration low. You need revs and therefore you need cams that will support that. So 270+ degree cams is almost a given. There is also no reason to think that your options are "duration" OR "lift". Realistically, you should run as much lift as you can. The longer the duration the easier it is to get more peak lift into the lobe. The limits are imposed by the other parts of the VT (lifter bores, springs, etc). So whilst I won't give you a specific recommendation here, I will give you a general one that says, get something with big duration and as much lift as you can handle. For reference, a loooong time ago I was involved in the making of a Supra do ~1000HP and it had HKS 292° cams in it (IIRC) and idled like a race bike. Used many revs to make the power, on 98.

Yes, the other thread linked above has someone who swears that he fit 375mm rotors inside the 17's that had 390mm bore diameter. I have a hard time believing that there is any clearance at all between the calipers and the wheel bores, and I have a hard time believing that the calipers actually even have enough room to have material to hold the two halves together in the first place. But they were AP Racing calipers or something equally exotic, not the bulky arse Sumitomos that we start with. I have R33 Sumitomos on R33 rotors inside Enkei RPF1 17s. There is just enough room to slide your fingers between the caliper and the wheel bore. Therefore there is bugger all possibility of going much bigger than the 324mm sort of size change that people do with these Sumitomos inside a wheel like mine. The Brembos that usually sit on the 324mm rotors (and other similar Brembos, like the Evo ones that people use a lot these days) must be more space efficient (radially) because they do seem to go onto 330-340mm rotors well enough. And of course that still leaves the question of the wheel bore diameter as another variable. In short, the caliper design and the wheel bore both matter.

Both. Looking at it from the traditional direction of modification......Once you have a delete bar or proper delete kit (that also gets rid of the original tie rods and ends) then you have to loop the hydraulic lines at the rear solenoid (at the minimum) in order to keep the rear circuit of the PS pump happy. Looking at it from the direction you would be approaching it, by changing the PS pump first.....If you're going to change to a PS pump that only handles the front steer, then there is no point in leaving the HICAS pipework and solenoids and shit in the car at all and should take the opportunity to kill it all with fire.

One thing to keep in mind with the PS pumps is that R32s have a 2 circuit pump. Front steer and rear steer are run on those two separate circuits. If you get rid of the R32 pump and you still have HICAS working, it will stop working and need to be killed properly.

Hell no. You need to restrict different amounts depending on how big your oil pump is. There can be no blanket rule on whether to fit them or not based on what type of lifters are in there.

I think that one is just to heat the inlet manifold. Does nothing else. Block or bypass depending on access.

Well, yes they do. But the question you ask about Tomei something something.....we don't know what the something something is.

It's going to be heat sensitive electronics. Coil packs, ignitor, CAS, AFM are the leading items in the engine bay that will do it. The other thing is simply the loom plugs for all these things. They can get old and brittle, with oxidation on the contacts. Get them warm and things move or the resistance changes and they stop working. The other leading possibility is the fuel pump. Could be running OK to start with but dying off as it warms up. Any decent mechanic should be able to help fault find this stuff. You may need some parts for swaptronics though.

It's hardly worth paying for a low mount manifold to mount a highflow turbo on. The OEM manifold is perfectly good for the sort of power levels that you can hope to obtain from such a turbo. If you were to spend $$ on one of these, then it would return a small benefit in outright power, might cost some spool revs. Money better put towards a high mount manifold and external gate and more turbo. Or if not wanting to spend that much, towards E85 compatible stuff to make better use of what you have. Etc. Not that there's anything wrong with that manifold.....just that it's not really a worthwhile thing to lust after.

My thoughts are that it shouldn't matter if you don't have the stuff hooked up that would cause idle load to change. Just get the ECU to learn through it doing nothing, and it comes out the other side not GAF about those things. I concur on the O2 sensor & feedback being vital. Once you get past cold start you need it working, or you need it tuned to ignore it properly.

I think the igniter is the same. But regardless of whether it is or isn't and regardless of whether the coils connectors are the same....there's nothing that wouldn't succumb to some repinning if required.

If I was o be modifying the combustion chamber of a 26 head it would be to put MORE squish in.