GTSBoy

I'm pretty sure that if you search carefully you'll find that someone has already posted stuff for the R35 sensor for PowerFC. I don't know where, because I took no notice because I have no time for PowerFC. If it wasn't for that, I would suggest that you could easily build something from scratch based on the information on it available inside Nistune, by comparing the Nistune Z32 map against the PowerFC Z32 map, and then using that comparison to scale the Nistune R35 map into a PowerFC equivalent.

Obviously enough, it's different depending on which size pipe it's in. Choose first. Millimetres matter here too. Don't use a curve for a 4" pipe if you don't know what was meant by 4". Could be 100mm, could be 101.6mm, could be ID, could be OD, could be just about anything.

And as they say, you can never have too much lube.

VQ37 + big EFR.

While that's true, and I still prefer my Bilsteins to coilovers.......the cost of rebuilding them is almost as much as buying new ones which is almost as much as buying coilovers. So it's hard to convince most people of the benefits.

Nope. Standard answer here is MCA. Accept substitutes at your peril.

Have you even looked at the Hypergear thread?

That should give you a clue

It is almost direct bolt on. You will need oil and water lines. Tao can supply those with the turbo, or you can look at eBay....but easier for you getting them from Tao. The dump should match Nissan pattern. The inlet needs modification. You can't use the skinny rubber Nissan shit. You need to fab up a steel or alloy 4" inlet that will also accept the AFM and your BOV return, etc.

No, the ATRs are not hiflows of Nissan turbos. They are outright new supply.

Strap a couple of Jatos on the roof too. Just in case.

Have you considered disconnecting the linkage, putting the wipers back in the parked position, then reconnecting the linkage to the motor?

JMD is Junior MacDonalds?

Well, if you want to be sensible about it, it doesn't make any sense to buy the "wrong" turbo for his end goal now, just so it won't overrun his injectors and AFM. Piggie's original recommendation (and mine) implied that he would buy the turbo he wanted AND make sure he had the fuel and management also, although I'll admit that we didn't make that real clear. Needless to say, the whole exercise is probably best reconsidered. What the OP really needs is a 2nd hand stock R33 turbo to throw back onto the car until he is actually ready to do the needful.

What exactly do you mean by "R32 GTR brake pads"? Do you mean "original partly used pads that someone took out of a GTR when they were upgrading"? Do you mean "cheap, nasty who-flung-dung brand cardboard horror stories like you find on Shazza and Dazza's crar"? Do you mean "good, stock replacement"? Do you mean "good replacement for stock with a bit better performance"? Do you mean "fast street pad"? Do you mean "decent street and light track work pad"? Do you mean "track pad"? Do you mean "outright race pad"? And why do they have to be in Sydney? Do you need them tomorrow, or can you wait to get them delivered from anywhere? Rough price of the above list goes from zero or near zero to about $200 per corner.

^ That's a valid choice (although possibly slightly on the small side). Other options include getting Hypergear to highflow your turbo or getting one of their ATR near-bolt-on-replacement turbos.

You need bent/offset open ended spanners to access the lower ends of these. Ideally they would be tube/flare spanners rather than open ended, because they are less likely to do damage. Flare spanners are like a ring spanner with the end cut out. The cut out is wide enough to pass over the tube and the remaining part of the ring wraps around the hex on the tube nut to still touch all 6 sides, instead of just 2 sides like an open spanner. The same tools will of course be good for the top tube nuts. (or what he ^ said)

Just do it. Compression + boost just = slightly less timing.

Holesaw

Um, it doesn't make sense to ask your question in this thread, because this thread started out with a question and answer that do not align with reality. The Z32 turbo diff is an R230, so the internals do not fit into a Skyline housing. And whilst you can jam the R230 housing into a Skyline subframe, it's not trivial. In your case, assuming you don't want to be trying to build some terrible Frankendiff with R230 stuff, then all you need is a 3.7 gearset from an S14 or whatever, plus your housing, plus the Nismo centre and stub axles of your choice. Plus some oil. And maybe a gasket. And possibly some bearings and a crush spacer.

Wot he sed! ^

I made (years ago) and used (for many years) the same boost controller. I liked it, but ultimately found in the end that like all non-EBC boost controllers it wasn't completely consistent. So I replaced it with a Profec. The Profec is much more consistent, as you might expect. In your case, I would ponder whether you should not just be adjusting the relief valve in your controller a little to increase the ramp rate. You might have maladjusted it a little when lowering the main boost reg, or maybe the way the relief valve works depends on the setting of the reg. I know when I was setting mine up (a few times) I set the boost reg first, then brought the relief valve up until it was coming on boost as hard as I wanted, then had to adjust the reg again to get the right target boost (because the relief valve affected the target a little too) and then once more back to the relief valve to get the ramp right. With your turbo and your desired boost levels, it won't matter what EBC you employ, nor the solenoid valve type or where it's located. Anything should work.

....... for example, you can buy kits of uerthane pineapple rings or alloy collars that can be used to change the tilt of the subframe on the car (on the Skyline, obviously) to alter the behaviour. You can make it hook up in a straight line a little better (more squat) or you can add a little more anti-squat to kinda help lateral grip. These are pretty bloody small changes around the stock tilt angle. If you have it at a rather larger difference to the original angle, it could be quite weird. You should probably get under an R32 over a pit and measure the heights of the front and back of the subframe relative to the ground to find out if you've got it close or dropped a clanger.

cool.

Would seem that you probably had a dead short. Maybe you should compare the wiring diagram & ECU pinouts for the ignition power & triggers and see what you did wrong.