GTSBoy

As I have been known to say to a workmate, who is in fact a couple of years older than me, neither of us being Gen Y weenies, "Anyone who acts like a Millennial can safely be treated as a Millennial." This because he acts like a weenie all the time. He likes to call me a hipster, even though I have hated hipsters since before it was cool to.

Yup. Pat me on the back for toughening the spines of the Millennial classes.

Because if someone had suggested to me that I should contact XYZ for some coilovers and I didn't know who they were, I'd plug XYZ coilovers into google instead of bleating on the forum that I didn't know who they were.

2.39 seconds on Google will tell you exactly who they are. But just for the spoon feedings, the M stands for Murray, the C stands for Coote and you can guess what the S stands for. They're not import specific. The name is well known in many different racing circles.

Well, the important thing here is that off the shelf coilovers for S chassis cars are sprung to suit CA/SR weight engines up front, not massive RBs. So your best bet is to do the first thing advised above and call MCA.

Andy, I forgot to come back to your previous post a couple of weeks ago. Just FYI, my diff, and all the collection of diffs I had apart to build my frankediff, have crush tubes in the pinion.

Mine still foams up at odd intervals and leaves little splooges of smurf spunk on the floor under the car. And that's with just commuter driving too, not serious flogging.

You don't need to hear from anyone who's done it. They're the same. End of story.

Assuming it's a tunable ECU, then whatever laptop + software is required to talk to the ECU and log its operation, is what I meant.

Set something up to log the ECU then get it spinning. See what falls out.

Disco, Many of those things you said above are the reason I suggested not to change the whole diff, or even the whole centre. It is made worse by the S15 diffs being helical and so the stubs don't even go close to swapping between HLSDs and VLSDs. The S chassis ABS is done with a single rear speed sensor on the diff nose, not the pair of code rings on the stub axles like the R chassis. All in all, it's just too much trouble.

It's not the 10 in 10-40 that you should consider changing down. It's the 40. The smaller number is the "winter" viscosity, which essentially how it behaves dead cold. At 70 ish degrees, you're not talking about that end of the oil's rating, your talking about the normal end. So if you're running 40 now, then 30 would be the logical decrease, if you were going to try to deal with your possible low-oil-temperature-causing-high-viscosity problem by running thinner oil, that is.

The speedo works like this: Speed sender at box sends an AC (actually sawtooth) wave of about +/-1V to the dash. The dash then converts that to a square wave 0-5V signal to the ECU. You can buy kits (like from Jaycar) that you can interpose in the signal line from the box to the dash to speed up or slow down the pulse rate, easily enough. You would do the same in your homemade dash, either to the incoming signal or just to the outgoing signal to the ECU.

Oil should run about 90°C. 60-70 is too cold, unless you use a thinner oil.

Even though you are correct in saying it's a "lower ratio", numerically, in terms of gearing we say that the ratio you want is higher, because the effective gearing is higher - as if you are running in a higher gear. You can't just swap a (whole) diff to achieve this. The S15 diff has a number of differences that make it not useable as one piece. The crownwheel and pinion set from an S15 diff could be swapped onto your diff, giving you the 3.6 or 3.7 or whatever it is. FWIW, I think this would be a great ratio for an RB25 Neo. If you don't want to go that far, then you would need to find a 3.9 CW&P set from another R200 diff and bang that in. Beware that there are a number of different bolt sizes and flange thicknesses that make it difficult to throw just any CW&P onto any other centre. So this may or may not be an easy task. The (R34) GTR diff is also a possible source, but is all the way to ~3.54 or something, so you're less likely to want that. Plus, it brings along other complications. Whatever you do, you will stuff up your speedo calibration, which might not be fixable. I have no idea what speedo drive gear options are out there to fix such a change (either for the manual or the auto).

Spray some silicone lube on the tyres before starting?

ONLY if it's the HICAS joints that are killing you. It could also be just about everything else down there. At least find out what's wrong before trying to source the fix. As to where to buy.....have you googled "HICAS eliminator kit"? The usual suspects come up immediately.

<nod>

Oh yeah. Not arguing about that.

Yuh, obviously. But at least there is a semi-reasonable formula for converting mass airflow into power in an optimised petrol engine. Whereas wheel horsepower depends on the number of rubber bands in the dyno software, or some other ouija board factors.

No turbo manufacturer is going to quote power at the wheels.

Was aimed at you. And in that case......fair enough.

Paint them black. it is illegal to modify a steering system without engineering approval. Guess what HICAS is.

Subframe bushes could possibly do with some love. ARB end links are probably fine. But can't tell anything about the condition of anything else from those photos.

Yuh, except that a new set of B6s and springs is the same $$ as a set of MCA blues.