GTSBoy

But but but but.....I'm trying to work out how they can be rubbing the back of the spokes on the caliper faces. This is not a reasonable situation. Fact 1. RPF1s (17x8 +35 or 38 or whatever it is) fit on my R32 against R33 calipers (not that it should matter much, but R33 calipers will obviously sit radially a little further away from the axis than R32 ones would). Fact 2. I've never sen other RPF1s not fit a Skyline under similar circumstances. Fact 3. RPF1s should all have about the same thickness of material in the hub section. This is the material thickness that determines whether the wheel will clear the caliper face. Observation 1. The wheel in the OP's photo appears to have a LOT thinner hub section than any other RPF1 I have ever seen. I would guess that some retard has machined a f**ktonne of material off the hub section. If all the above is true, run away. Do not sell them (because that would be wrong). Do not try to use them with spacers, because that would be stupid if they have been molested.

Yeah, that's pretty bloody good service considering the warranty situation. I also await the forensics

I would have thought that a brake specialist workshop accustomed to working on ABS actuators would not only have a bunch of suitable O-rings on hand to suit any and all makes but not require their customers to source them beforehand. Hint...I'm suggesting taking it to a brake specialist - a proper one, not one of those bloody chain store type ones you have in the US - to get it serviced. Given that you're going to take it to "a shop" for the work anyway.

There are no "versions". There are genuine Garrett and there are Chinese/Taiwanese copies. Mambatek (or Mambatech or Mamba or whatever the hell they call themselves) may or may not make a decent turbo, but one thing they are definitely NOT selling is a real GTX3071R. I like the "searching for more info" part of your thread title. Many many threads talking about the turbos you ask about.

Well, how much do you reckon? There has to be <1m at the rear and <1m at the front. So if you bought 2m you'd hardly be bankrupting yourself and probably not wasting much.

Skinny flat blade screwdriver, poking wire, cursing and swearing. Some tantrum & jumping around too IIRC. Getting it off is as you say.

more than 9000

Possible that the injectors is buggered and pissing too much fuel in. Also possible that it's buggered, not put enough fuel in, you have run that cylinder lean and it is now rooted. Also possible that the rings on that cylinder have just died on their own. Injectors out and flow tested are probably the on only way to tell if either of the 1st 2 are true.

None of the upper ducts should be held on my more than some interference fits. You just need a lot of BFI. Either that or actual dash out. It'll be one or the other.

if you were in Adelaide I would say go to Asteg. Now, in Adelaide, Asteg is the only such place that I know off the top of my head, because knowing them I don't need to know anywhere else. But I am dead sure that there would be another 10+ places in Adelaide equivalent. In Sydney, I would expect upwards of 20 such places. I would never consider buying precision tools from Supercheap, Repco or Bunnings. Well, maybe Repco or Bunnings, if they had decent brands and not some who-flung-dung brand from god knows where in Outer Mongolia. It might be time to start reminding the internet generation of the existence of bricks and mortar engineering suppliers and the Yellow Pages!

Mental note for the future: That location of that tapping point will give an artificially high pressure signal. Much higher than the actual static pressure at that point. This is because it is on the outside of the bend and the velocity of the flowing air stream will stagnate in the tapping point and collapse back to static pressure - which it does so in addition to the actual static pressure there. For boost control this might not actually matter. It's just an arbitrary signal to work against and the user calibrates it against a boost gauge from the plenum/manifold anyway. But for other possible applications (ie, wanting to actually know the static pressure at that location) you will get an erroneous measurement.

As close to the turbo as possible. If that means getting something made/modded, then so be it.

Mail order chips are only of value when you have a stock car (like all those VAG oilers or various other Euro cars) where there is heaps of potential left in the stock setup and the factory tune does not take advantage of it. Write one tune that suits all stock motors using up more of the potential, sell to thousands, profit. No-one suffers. But there is no such thing as a respectable "stage 1" mods or "stage 2" mods tune, especially for 20 year old cars. Every single mod is different in some way, every single engine ages differently, fuel is different from place to place, climate and elevation are different. Just too many possibilities for it to go bang pop. There is nothing wrong with EEPOM tuning (except it being a pain in the arse) when it is done on a dyno with a real-tile emulator plugged in, in which case it is just like tuning any other ECU live. EEPROM tuning by the guess and insert method sucks.

Just about every movey bit. Upper arm bushes, lower arm bushes, ball joints, tie rod ends, even the bearings in the uprights. ARB bushes as you suspect will cause noise under dynamic loads, but they shouldn't cause shudder under braking because they don't really do anything to control the position of the wheel.

Note that rose joints on radius rods would have to be very very stuffed to allow much movement. The noise they generate would annoy you to death before they got that bad.

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Oh sheesh. It's not just that it's not everyone's cup of tea. It's that it makes so little sense. My first response was 100% completely correct.

Note that you cannot mix and match sensors and gauges. You will need that gauge if you want that sensor.

I think we can safely say that Kres is located somewhere in Eastern Europe. So whether or not the alignment was "cheap", there is going to be a fair chance that the shop is not that familiar with Skylines. Although, I have seen plenty of 4 door R34s in the porn that comes out of Czech Republic, Ukraine and Russia.

How the f**k are you going to drive this car with the -5° of camber you're going to need to tuck the outside edge of the rubber under the guard? You'll use approximately 5% of the total mass of tread rubber on the tyres before wearing through to the canvas and will have all the front end grip of a f**king moped!

As I said, what you want is a reducing bush with the 2 threads.

OK. 4 degrees of -ve camber on the rear is just bloody stupid. Is it lowered until the exhaust is scraping on the road? The only time that much neg camber makes sense is on a very fast circuit car on slicks. Your original rear toe numbers were massively toed out and it would have felt awful. The new settings are still toed out and it will possibly still feel unsettled. That is unless you like a really active rear end. The other possibility is that I am reading your sheet wrongly. I had assumed that the target data for the rear was indicating toe in (which I would expect). If it is fact recommending toe out, then you have a lot of toe in and it will be a bit dead . This is an important point because it impacts what I have to say about the front toe. Your front camber numbers are about as highly negative as I would want on the street. For a street car I would go for a little less.....like -1.5°. But -2 is OK. You will wear the inside edges of the front tyres a little faster than the rest. Your front caster numbers are high and OK. That is about where people would like to have them. I note that they did not change them in the alignment.....does this mean you do not have adjustable caster rods on the front? If you put some on you may be able to get even a little more caster if you wanted. Your front toe was all f**ked up. It probably needed a lot of steering wheel angle to drive straight. Either that, or the steering wheel was pulled off and put back on one spline out!! Your new toe is at least even. It appears as if the recommended toe at the front is toe out. That's not normal - normal Nissan specs are toe in. So I may be reading your sheet backwards. Anyway, if the spec is for toe in, then you have a lot of it and it will be dull. If the spec is for toe out, then you have a lot of toe out and you will find it very darty and possibly hard to control. And if it is in fact toed out, then coupled with your -2° camber, you will almost certainly destroy the inside edges of your tyres. The normal system for reporting toe angle is that +ve is toed in and -ve is toed out. In that case both ends of your car are set up with quite a lot of toe in, which will be dead and dull to drive. At least at the front they might have done it to compensate for the wear from the front camber.

Make your own? It's easy enough to mix and pour.

Just be aware of a little trap when using that sort of T for a water temp gauge, especially on an RB. Where the sensor screws into a hole vertically downward then such a T is likely to end up with an air bubble in it any time you let the coolant out. Then NEITHER of your temp sensors will actually be in the coolant and their response time and accuracy will be shitful. The factory sensor pokes down through the hole into the coolant and so doesn't form an air pocket. Putting a vertical spacer in like that means you also need to consider putting a means of bleeding up at the top of it too. For the typical oil pressure fitting on the side of the block it would be fine, no problem.

1/8 of an inch is just over 3mm. So ignoring the fact that an M12x1.25 is a metric thread and NPT is an imperial (well, actually it's not, it's a US spec, but it's similar to BSP which IS imperial) then the chances of a ~3mm male thread engaging with a 12mm female thread are approximately the same as getting a hotdog stuck in a hallway. You might be able to find a suitable bush with the appropriate threads inside and out to permit you to do it. It would certainly be possible to make one on a lathe if you couldn't find one on the shelf somewhere in the world. Hell, there are so many "dodgy installation facilitators" on eBay these days trying to help people do things like that that you could probably find one in seconds. A sandwich plate will be the easiest and best way to fit an aftermarket oil temp or pressure sensor.