GTSBoy

I thought they did the thread change at both ends.

Ignoring the whole 12mm / 14mm thread thing?

I'm laughing my arse off right here.

You're going to need pistons. The RB26 is olde schoole RB style combustion chamber. The Neo is neu schule combustion chamber design. Smaller volume, flatter valve face angle. With both the 25Neo and the 26 using the exact same rod from the factory, despite the different stroke, it should be very clear that the piston pin heights are different between the engines. So trying to use 26 pistons under a Neo head is likely to lead to wrongness. But you can't use Neo pistons (to suit the head) in the 26 block because they end up at the wrong height. Your dummy assembly and measurements should show you where stuff is finishing up and where the problems are. Break out the burette and do your own CR measurements. Do not molest the combustion chamber, trying to find extra volume. It would defeat the purpose of using the Neo head in the first place (apart from the obvious VCT benefit). You're going to need pistons.

Heavy oil, lighter oils (like industrial diesels), gas, coal, petcoke - all as main fuels on their own or co-fired. Plus alternative fuels like waste oils & solvents, sewage sludge, Refuse Derived Materials (RDF, C&I waste, etc), biomass like rice husks, sunflower husks, grape mark, nut shells.

Funny you should say that.......because I am a combustion engineer. Just on a somewhat more massive scale. My fuel injectors are rated in megawatts.

I would have needed the laptop hooked up to see any AFR info. I don't have a wideband and my cute little 0-1v meter hasn't been hooked up since I had to replace the O2 sensor. Times like these I wish I wasn't so lazy! I did stop and pop the bonnet once when I was driving at ~80km/h (which is not really a high load) with 800°C indicated but nothing was glowing, nor did the amount of heat near the exhaust feel outrageous. I looked under there a couple of times when I pulled up at home with high temps at idle, with same non-result. I can imagine hot gas inside the manifold/turbine/dump not having enough mass flow to heat the metal bits up enough to make them glow if it's only at idle/cruise loads, so this probably isn't really useful data anyway. I would probably have needed to put it on the dyno - give it some moderate load and both see the manifold and watch the AFRs. If this bullshit behaviour had continued onto the next tank of fuel I would have gone out of my way to do that. Because then it would have been clear that the car had something odd going on. But the instant change on the fresh tank made it dead clear that it was the fuel.

Oh, yeah, oops I wasn't thinking about the split spray. FWIW, I can't imagine that the benefit of split spray is worth more than 2/10 of f**k all.

Any non-articulated arm is poison on an R32. Doesn't matter what length, what style of bush or bearing at the ends. All bad. The best, absolute best, option right now is this, based on the arms used in Group A GTRs back in the day. I have recently put some on my car and they are really good. As to coilovers.....my opinion is that any off the shelf brand name coilover is a bad choice. If you're going to follow my advice on the arms (and therefore be ordering something from Australia to be sent to you in Trumpistan) then you should also consult MCA here about options. Their stuff is properly developed from real motorsport experience, not hard as rocks poorly damped Jap struts.

The Siemens Deka 60lb/hr ones are the only ones that I can think of. They need 6 bar to get there though. Actually, I take that back. They do an 80lb/h one too. And even Xspurt have an unmodified Bosch 950 3/4 don't they? Just not in the Neo section.

Well, the obvious question is.....how big?

The suggestion is to put new passthrough terminals onto the tank lid so as not to try to pass 1 bazzilion amps through the original ones. And then, yes, fat wires both sides.

That car actually looks very very sound.

I cheaped out and bought Prosport 52mm gauges. The Premium Series ones. They're pretty good, for cheapies. The ebay vendor I got the gauges from also had a sandwich plate, which I reckon is same same with this one. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Prosport-Oil-Filter-Sandwich-Plate-w-UNF-Fittings-Blanking-Plugs-High-Quality/112352624048?hash=item1a28bcfdb0:g:uYEAAOSw7L1Z0auR which is essentially the same as the 2nd one you linked.

The factory ITBs are HUUUUUUUUUUGE compared to any reasonable size single throttle. At least the equivalent of a 100mm single, taking some extra wall friction and extra throttle plate obstruction into account.

Various other options, like Deatschtschtschshwerks, but generally all about same same in terms of capabilities vs money, with Walbro stuff being ahead in the value stakes.

1. No, I don't think the 255 would be a good idea for E85 at that power level. 2. The newer ones are safe. The 255 isn't really big enough anyway, so the question is moot. 3. Yup. Reasonable choice. Downsides of a truly oversized pump are excessive heating of the fuel. The 460 isn't really all that oversized. If you were unlucky enough to experience any problems from hot fuel, you could plumb in a fuel cooler in the return, or invest in a voltage controller. 4. Don't buy from ebay. Buy from someone off here who you trust. Such as Scotty.

Yuh, I wonder a lot of things about additives etc, too. Here in Adelaide, my car runs better on Shell98, but I used to stick to BP/Mobil (same stuff here).

Hi Johnny, The answers to your questions are yes and yes. However, it wasn't always hot weather. Air temps on the road varied from well below 30 to nearly 40 last week. The normal idle control works very well to keep the idle at 600 since I cleaned and properly adjusted the valve some (long) time ago. In fact it was the previous occurrence of fuel related weirdness that prompted me to check the operation of the IAC when I found it idling at 5° back then. I didn't get a chance to put the laptop onto the car while it was doing it because I was invariably too rushed to do it. Kind of wish I had though, to be sure.

Yuh, well, my initial thought was low octane. But it didn't ping at all. I've seen what happens when it gets a dose of fuel that is clearly not high enough octane. It pings like crazy on load. This lot didn't. And the car should fairly happily run 91 at idle and low load, but in this case would get really hot out the exhaust. Makes sense, it does not.

Gentlemen, I present for you a mystery. The short version is; The tank of Shell 98 that I used last week, pretty much right from the beginning of the tank, until I filled it back up on Wednesday, ran really high EGT and in a really odd way. About 450km of this behaviour. I have EGT probe installed through a hole in the top of the turbine housing. Has been there for years. I'm very familiar with what sort of EGTs the car makes. It will settle to <400°C at idle. It will run at ~500-600°C just driving around. It will run >800°C when stomping it hard or driving it fastish up a steep hill. All normal. When it has had a problem in the past (like a bad batch of fuel I had once that caused it to detonate), the temperatures would go spastically high under load, as you'd expect when it's detonating. Last week, it would run up to 900-1000°C at odd times. Sitting at the lights it would continually climb until it got up there. Driving around it would do it. Stomp on it a bit and it would sometimes stay high, sometimes it would settle back to the ~600-700°C territory you might expect. It would also sometimes run normal EGT and sometimes idle down to the <400°C I like to shut it down at. Other times after pulling up to park it, the EGT would just continue to rise through 800°C. I must stress that I did not hear it ping at all. It also felt very normal. It drove the same, it idled at 600rpm, it was just as fast. It wasn't as if it was running a blocked injector and missing some of its fuel, etc etc. As soon as I put 50+ litres of fresh fuel in it, the car went 100% back to normal. So, theories on what would cause it to happen on a single tank of fuel? What could possibly be wrong with the fuel that would make the car seem normal in all other respects but run such high and odd EGTs? Back story on the fuel. I pretty much only use Shell 98, in Adelaide. Occasionally it gets BP98, but I can tell there is a tiny difference in how well it runs, so choose Shell. I use a number of Shell stations and maybe 10-20% of the time I use the one at Golden Grove. This tankful came from GG. The replacement tankful came from the Shell on Churchill Rd. I have occasionally been suspicious of the operation of the engine after fills at GG. Some fluffiness at idle, maybe some pinging (in fact, I think the tank that caused it to ping like a meth addict last year came from there). That sort of stuff. But only vague suspicions, nothing quite as convincing as last week. Has anyone else had a weird result from there, or any other servo in particular?

Hi Marcus, I don't know all the details (not having played with push-pull conversions), but I'm pretty sure that the full story has been posted on here in the past. cheers

The usual stuff done to toughen an auto gearbag. Better clutches and such, changes to the valvebody. You could probably ask them to source you one from a local wrecker and doctor it then send to you. It's gunna cost you some extra coins for their effort, but probably worth it to not have to try to source one yourself by remote. Don't just e-mail them either. Call them in the new year, (say after the 8th) in their morning - which would likely be early evening for you if you're on the east coast, or late afternoon if you're further west. Indicate that you sent them an e-mail on the subject and that you're fairly serious. You'll get ignored less than the usual "random e-mail from dream on other side of world" treatment I'm sure they've learned.

Tranny needs to spend time in their workshop in order to benefit. It's not just "remove original valve body" and "plug in magic valve body".

Really?