
GTSBoy
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Everything posted by GTSBoy
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R32 GTS-T Rear Diff Question
GTSBoy replied to jlanny's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Neither the Z32 nor the S13 have the same stuff. The Z32 turbo is an R230 diff with big 6 stud flanges. So will not be the same. The S13 turbo is an R200 like the R32, but has 3x2 bolt flanges. But I think that the internals parts of the output shafts are same same, so C clips from one should suit the other. -
Well, the main reason that various people have been keeping fuel pressures lower than ideal for atomisation is that many of the usual suspect fuel pumps don't maintain the same capacity as the pressures go up. Now that we have a wider selection of bigger pumps, people could choose to use more pressure again.
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Depends on how far open the AAC valve is. If that was 90% open, to compensate for not having any base flow through the screw, then your idle control system won't have much scope to increase the idle when it really needs to. Unless you have big cams, you should consider controlling the idle speed back to ~600rpm. You will surprised how much fuel it saves if you spend time in traffic.
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Race brakes, no booster?
GTSBoy replied to 260DET's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I reckon Dattoman or one of the other brake gurus back at PF posted very useful stuff about working it all out many years ago. -
PPG 6 speed Sequential for GTR
GTSBoy replied to SimonR32's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Check out the YouTube video from the MotiveDVD guys on the one in a GTR. Street drive. -
Well, there's only one of a few things that can be happening here. 1. You have stock steering wheel. There is only one orientation in which the drive pin from the sensor will engage in the stock boss. Therefore it cannot be put together wrongly unless the wheel is seriously not straight with the wheels dead ahead. 2. You have an aftermarket wheel with a HICAS compatible boss. Assuming it's the right boss for the car (see GH05t's post above) then I suppose some cretin could have bolted the wheel onto the boss 1 or more bolts out of alignment. 2a. But if this was the case, then you simply could not drive it more than about 10km without the HICAS computer going into a panic anyway. So if your HICAS is working properly, then there is nothing wrong. If the sensor is wrong, then the HICAS that you claim to like is probably not working any time anyway (and someone probably either pulled the globe or pulled the plug from the HICAS computer).
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Race brakes, no booster?
GTSBoy replied to 260DET's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I'm in our US office this week. A day after saying unkind things about Porsches there has been a GT$ parked outside my window all day and I've had to pretend to ignore it. Lovely looking thing from behind. Back to the point at hand though.....Balance bar and 2 masters. Do it right. Pedal feel will be umpty bazzillion times better. There is no reason to expect the pedal effort to be too high if you get the pedal ratio and master/caliper piston sizes matched properly. This might take more than a guess to get right though. -
Race brakes, no booster?
GTSBoy replied to 260DET's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Man cars don't have boosters. -
It's a hot wire air flow meter. It works by running a current through a wire (or a transistor) and monitoring the temperature of that wire (or transistor). Then the current is controlled up and down to maintain the temperature of the sensing element. Heat is lost to the air flowing past the element based on the mass flow rate of air. More air flow = more heat loss -- more current required to maintain the temperature. In a turbo inlet position, the air is at atmospheric pressure, so is moving faster for any given mass flow rate. In an IC pipe, the air (at high flow rates) is at whatever the boost pressure is. Higher pressure = lower velocity for any given pipe size. Could be double or triple the density of atmospheric air. Regardless of what the pressure is though, the local air mass flow rate past the sensing element is what the AFM is reading. More air = more blah blah blah, as above.
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Dyno Graph Question - What do you make of this?
GTSBoy replied to boo5td6's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Ideally the torque curve comes up to the "peak" value as early as possible and stays there, flat, until the redline. This is not usually completely achievable. On turbo engines especially, you don't get anywhere near peak torque until you have all the boost. And at the top end, as any air flow restrictions (ie turbine housing) start to take effect, torque will drop off. A completely flat torque curve gives you a linearly rising power curve. Turbo engines usually have a rather more savage arrival of both torque and power at the point where the boost arrives, meaning that the power curve is often very low and flat, followed by very steep, followed by a more linear section once boost is stable, followed by a drop off if the torque curve suffers as mentioned above. -
You don't need 4" pipe for the AFM sensor when it is post turbo. You only need 4" pipe when upstream the turbo so as to avoid creating restriction and hence low pressure at the turbo inlet. It will work (ie can be calibrated) in whatever size IC piping.
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It's heinously expensive though, for $500 worth of coils, a mounting plate and some different plug boots.
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Denso >> *
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Also keep in mind that a car trailer + R33 is unlikely to be within the legal towing weight limits. Plenty of people say "not a problem", but that's not what insurance companies say after you have a whoopsie.
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Dyno Graph Question - What do you make of this?
GTSBoy replied to boo5td6's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Assuming that the charts are not backwardly labelled or some other issue, then the power is flat because the torque curve is falling off. The engine is not making torque after 125 on the speed scale. If the problem is not in the tune (which would have to be timing) then it must be flow limited. The nasty wiggle in the AFR at 125 should be ironed out, but that's not a huge issue. In short, this is not a normal setup. -
Well, obviously you need to bypass the resistor pack. Either do it manually or wimp out and buy a pre-built module.
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Which should I go with GTX2863, 2530, or 2860-5
GTSBoy replied to Trailmix's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
One is a square number, one is the same number as most people have fingers or toes. The other is prime. -
R33 Gtst rear end knock
GTSBoy replied to admS15's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Genuine pain in the arse. -
Yaris coils or the ones from the ZZ motors in hot Corollas (& Celicas). They vary in some small details, like which way the plugs point. The right ones to get are the ones with the plugs horizontal, not angled up. Make sure they are Denso. Genuine Denso.
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Which should I go with GTX2863, 2530, or 2860-5
GTSBoy replied to Trailmix's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Or twin EFRs. Just sayin'. -
Which should I go with GTX2863, 2530, or 2860-5
GTSBoy replied to Trailmix's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
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The normal mechanism inside is a one way clutch type thing. If you pull on the belt hard, the force of the pull is enough to make the clutch lock (like a peg being jammed in a tooth on a sprocket) and that is your safety mechanism. It stops the belt being pulled out any further. Once they unlock they usually allow belt to move both ways. You may well have a little piece of something broken floating around in there, hence why I suggested turning it upside down or banging it again. The pre-tensioner is pyro-technic. They are single use. If it has fired then a) you should have noticed it and b) it would be a throwaway anyway. If you think you might need to plug it back in (and I can't imagine why, unless there is an electronic lock also) then all you have to do is get 3 or 4 lengths of wire to make a bodgy extension to get the 2 sets of pins in the 2 loom plugs to connect. Some alligator clips or whatever it takes to make the connections.