GTSBoy

It is a 1980s product.

There is no way that you will get it to run on 20 injectors on a 20 ECU even with the fuel pressure bumped up a bit. It's a 3 LITRE ENGINE

HAVE YOU SEARCHED? USING GOOGLE? THE INFO HAS BEEN POSTED HERE BEFORE.

I thought mine were too. SuperPro/Whiteline adjustable urethane in OEM arms. Upon removal to fit the new GKTech awesome sauce FUCAs, I discovered exactly how bad they were. Outer and inner bolts were a looooooong way from parallel due to urethane bushes being well out of shape. Unsurprisingly, the car drives a lot better since.

OK, so a month later (but only 1.5 tanks of fuel later, because I've been overseas half the time).....and it appears as if it is not dodgy fuel. I haven't put Shell in since then. Just 2 fills with BP98. First one was normal operation. The most recent tank, the EGTs have been high again. But, properly intermittently. I finally got the shits up enough with it to put the laptop on it while it was playing up. Timing was exactly as commanded by the map, so not retarded. Fuelling looked fine (pulse widths were as expected, narrow band was flicking back and forth from 0-1v as normal). Got the shits up even more and took the IR pyrometer along for a drive. Drove up a big hill and parked it with the EGT indicating 800°C idling. Turbo flange was only 400°C. which is exactly the sort of temperature I'd expect it to be based on old normal operation where the EGT would sit on about 550°C after that drive. Suspicion is now nearly 100% on a dodgy EGT probe, or more likely, gauge.

Shat upper control arm bushes will sometimes feel like that. More movement than desired/expected.

I can't be precise......but I effectively have GTR springs on my R32. About 5.5 kg/mm at the front and about 4 at the rear. I have SK modified B6s on my car and they work really well with those springs. But I used to have off the shelf B6s using springs that were only a bees dick less stiff and they were also fine. I can tell that SK's revalving is worth having, but it's not like it's the difference between them working and not working. It's more about the quality of teh damping than the absolute quantity, if you know what I mean. So, on that basis, I would suggest that off the shelf B6 valving will more than likely have no problems at all handling 6 kg/mm springs. The beauty of the valve stack on good dampers like Bilsteins is that they can actually handle a very wide range of spring rates. Have a read of SK's sticky damper thread for a refresh if it's been a while. If chickluvit has gone all the way up to 9kg springs at the front, I'm not at all surprised that B6s would need different valving. Those spring rates are a loooong way from what Bilstein would have intended the dampers to work with.

I'm pretty sure that if you search carefully you'll find that someone has already posted stuff for the R35 sensor for PowerFC. I don't know where, because I took no notice because I have no time for PowerFC. If it wasn't for that, I would suggest that you could easily build something from scratch based on the information on it available inside Nistune, by comparing the Nistune Z32 map against the PowerFC Z32 map, and then using that comparison to scale the Nistune R35 map into a PowerFC equivalent.

Obviously enough, it's different depending on which size pipe it's in. Choose first. Millimetres matter here too. Don't use a curve for a 4" pipe if you don't know what was meant by 4". Could be 100mm, could be 101.6mm, could be ID, could be OD, could be just about anything.

And as they say, you can never have too much lube.

VQ37 + big EFR.

While that's true, and I still prefer my Bilsteins to coilovers.......the cost of rebuilding them is almost as much as buying new ones which is almost as much as buying coilovers. So it's hard to convince most people of the benefits.

Nope. Standard answer here is MCA. Accept substitutes at your peril.

Have you even looked at the Hypergear thread?

That should give you a clue

It is almost direct bolt on. You will need oil and water lines. Tao can supply those with the turbo, or you can look at eBay....but easier for you getting them from Tao. The dump should match Nissan pattern. The inlet needs modification. You can't use the skinny rubber Nissan shit. You need to fab up a steel or alloy 4" inlet that will also accept the AFM and your BOV return, etc.

No, the ATRs are not hiflows of Nissan turbos. They are outright new supply.

Strap a couple of Jatos on the roof too. Just in case.

Have you considered disconnecting the linkage, putting the wipers back in the parked position, then reconnecting the linkage to the motor?

JMD is Junior MacDonalds?

Well, if you want to be sensible about it, it doesn't make any sense to buy the "wrong" turbo for his end goal now, just so it won't overrun his injectors and AFM. Piggie's original recommendation (and mine) implied that he would buy the turbo he wanted AND make sure he had the fuel and management also, although I'll admit that we didn't make that real clear. Needless to say, the whole exercise is probably best reconsidered. What the OP really needs is a 2nd hand stock R33 turbo to throw back onto the car until he is actually ready to do the needful.

What exactly do you mean by "R32 GTR brake pads"? Do you mean "original partly used pads that someone took out of a GTR when they were upgrading"? Do you mean "cheap, nasty who-flung-dung brand cardboard horror stories like you find on Shazza and Dazza's crar"? Do you mean "good, stock replacement"? Do you mean "good replacement for stock with a bit better performance"? Do you mean "fast street pad"? Do you mean "decent street and light track work pad"? Do you mean "track pad"? Do you mean "outright race pad"? And why do they have to be in Sydney? Do you need them tomorrow, or can you wait to get them delivered from anywhere? Rough price of the above list goes from zero or near zero to about $200 per corner.

^ That's a valid choice (although possibly slightly on the small side). Other options include getting Hypergear to highflow your turbo or getting one of their ATR near-bolt-on-replacement turbos.

You need bent/offset open ended spanners to access the lower ends of these. Ideally they would be tube/flare spanners rather than open ended, because they are less likely to do damage. Flare spanners are like a ring spanner with the end cut out. The cut out is wide enough to pass over the tube and the remaining part of the ring wraps around the hex on the tube nut to still touch all 6 sides, instead of just 2 sides like an open spanner. The same tools will of course be good for the top tube nuts. (or what he ^ said)

Just do it. Compression + boost just = slightly less timing.