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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. I described the "direct feed" above. That's the way it works. Wire it up like that and it will either work, or something is broken.
  2. Many of us suggest changing the whole engine, or the whole car, because we did the piecemeal upgrade and learnt that it would have been better to bite the bullet and just swap.
  3. 130000 kays! Hah! Even if you see one, don't believe the hype. Stock! Even more Hah! Have a look at the fore sale ads on here for some guidance of what sort of things are trading hands amongst the people who know more or less what they're worth. That's the only broad price guide you're going to get. After that, you will either be looking at a car which is so nice that you'll pay whatever inflated price the guy is asking for to make sure you get it, or you'll be looking at one of the 11ty bungers out there that have at least something wrong with them and trying to work out what you're willing to pay to take on the problems associated with it. For some explanation of why I don't give you any price guidance. I bought my R32 last century for just over 20k. A couple of years ago it was worth maybe $7k. Nowadays, some people will tell you that an example like mine that is well looked after and presents well is going to be able to get >$20k again. That's unprovable unless I sell it. Finding another example like mine that's for sale is not going to be easy, as there are so few R32s still circulating, let alone in decent condition. You can only base the >20k guess on what the normal stock are trading for. R34s are not quite in that basket yet, being 5+ years newer, but really, it can't be long before the same is going to be broadly true.
  4. 2 wires! The speed sensor will not work with 1 wire. I do not know why I have to say this in every single one of these threads. It's a fricken AC signal.
  5. This is not true. The speed signal starts out at the speed sensor as a +/-1 volt sawtooth (roughly AC) signal generated by the rotation of the sensor. The 2 wires associated with this go to the cluster, where the speedo reads it and displays it. The speedo head also converts the signal to a 0-5v square wave pulse that it puts onto the bus. The ECU looks for that signal. So do the other CUs that use it. The fact that an ABS or other CU is not present should not cause it to not work. The ECU will certainly be chucking a code if the other CUs it expects to hear from are not present. You need to Nistune the ECU to be able to fix that. If I had to guess, I would say that your loom transplant has done something undesirable.
  6. The theory of uneven power strokes making the engine less smooth doesn't really hold water. And the idea of tuning out lean cylinders only works if you put 6x TCs or 6x O2 sensors on the runners to see the effect otherwise you're "fixing" something with no evidence.
  7. Um.....You'll need a very friendly roadworthy to get that registered in Victoriastan. I count somewhat more than the max. 2 permitted inlet system modifications there.
  8. Then I must be a real bastard. Mine works. Has always worked.
  9. If it has code rings inboard of the stub axles, and 2x sensors pointed at them and wires connecting those sensors to the loom.....then yes.
  10. ? Oh. Sorry. Still the wrong spelling!
  11. Disconnect its plug and see how it runs.
  12. I wouldn't worry about the adapters (although there are some doubts about their road-legalness). They're strong enough. The fact that you really have to change the master to get the piston areas to work is an extra hassle. Cheap aftermarket kits are less hassle.....but they're not Brembos either. Hmmm. that's not real useful.. Perhaps I mean to say that if you have to have Brembos, then I'd prefer to stick with GTR ones. Or look to Z33/4 era stuff.
  13. Probably either killed the AFM or saturated the air filter.
  14. My god! What a fantastic geek. Buy a Skyline. You'll fit in fine here!
  15. Well, well. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281692-why-nobody-makes-front-upper-arms-that-sit-further-backwards/
  16. If I can find it within 2 minutes of posting this reply, I shall prove you very wrong.
  17. There's a thread on here from years ago with the question "why aren't there any FUCAs that move the top of the upright further back" or something like that. Has good info in it.
  18. Oops. I never heard about the 5 bux. So it never happened either way!
  19. I myself thought that the R32 GTS4 had the same 5 bolt diff flanges as the GTSt. Someone on here (just the other day) swore black and blue that the GTS4 diff was the exact same 6 bolt setup as the GTR. I myself find this hard to believe, because the GTS4 has the same shitty VLSD centre as the GTSt, not a mech diff like a GTR. This confusing nonsense does not directly help you, but shows that I agree with Duncan that the GTS4 rear diff is not an easy swap with a GTR diff. You should get under your car and take a photo of the diff and flanges for us to make this the=read a useful and searchable resource for the future.
  20. OK, so you have the loom plug and the other half of that connector and the short length of wires and no sensor. That wasn't clear from the outset, but it is now. Someone has yanked the sensor straight off the wires! Should be easy enough if you can find a sensor to solder on there.
  21. Plugs into the wires, has the air flowing over it.
  22. And you haven't searched for all the existing posts on the subject?
  23. Aaahhhh....take the single wire temp sensor out at your great peril and misfortune. That one is for the ECU. The 2 wire runs the dash gauge.
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