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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    It's not rocket surgery. Work it out yourself. The PS circuit is dead simple. There are 3-4 things in it (depending whether you put the cooler into the return or not). Just hook them up. Following a DIY that does not work for your gear is a fool's errand.
  2. GTSBoy
    Fuel pump. AFM. FPR. Dirty injector. Blocked fuel filter. These are the first things to check. Same as in the 500000000000 other threads that start this way.
  3. GTSBoy
    How are you measuring the voltage? DMM? If so, then don't. You need an analog multimeter or a scope of some sort. DMMs can't see that sort of PWM signal. They're too slow.
  4. GTSBoy
    Bulb. I shall also refrain from saying passively aggressive nasty things. But really, this should be obvious. Have you even opened the bonnet to see? Dammit, I failed at avoiding saying passively aggressive things. Oh well.
  5. GTSBoy
    Um. What? The HICAS pressure line is completely separate from the power steering. When I did exactly what you're doing (but with a Neo), I simply removed everything to do with HICAS (the thing on the frame rail is a pair of solenoid valves, not a pump). With everything HICAS removed, the power steering pump simply connects to the rack via the original line (adapted at the pump end owing to being a different pump) and the return from the rack goes where it always did. That's it. And don't loop the cooler. Plumb it into the return line. You need the cooler.
  6. GTSBoy
    All the volts.
  7. GTSBoy
    I'd suggest a sticky piston on the LHF caliper.
  8. GTSBoy
    PowerFC is a relatively cheap & easy way to put an ECU into an R33. It is VERY old tech now though. If you want modern tech, then ANY other aftermarket ECU is miles better. Haltech, Link and so on usually do plug in models for Skylines, making them just as easy to install. Costs a bit more than a PFC usually though. Nistune is still my preferred way to go about it for a stockish street car. Use an R32 ECU with Nistune board and set up for R33, for less money than the above options. It's still old tech, but it's OEM old tech which is still very good for running a dirty old RB, and it look standard so it's one less thing to get defected for.
  9. GTSBoy
    Yup. Options for tuning R33s do not sensibly include random "chips". Options above are to be considered.
  10. GTSBoy
    You know, the wiring diagrams for the R32 GTR have been available in the workshop manual on-line for about 20 years. The temp sensor is almost certainly a thermistor. So why don't you grab a decade box, some wires and the wiring diagram and start plugging different resistance values (starting high) into the air-con box until you get what you need? If you go a little further you could work out more than one point on the T-R curve and work out what sort of thermistor you would need to replace the missing one so the air-con works properly.
  11. GTSBoy
    I tried to understand it too. Gave up.
  12. GTSBoy
    FFS. Let this thread die!
  13. GTSBoy
    Defo 9:1. Even higher if possible, with E85. Cams keep gentle if you're not going to replace all that weak as shit SR gear on top of the motor. Cheapskate the ex manifold. Put the money saved towards some head work. A little attention in the ports will be worth more than bigger cams, better manifold, etc.
  14. GTSBoy
    Change the speedo head. Speed signal is +/- 1V sawtooth signal from sender to speedo head. Speedo head electronics convert that to 0-5V squarewave for the ECU etc. If there is no display or output at low speeds but it works at high speeds, then it's probably not a broken wire or loose connection. it is some dodgy electronics. You could take it to an instrument specialist. You know, like we used to do back before the internet.
  15. GTSBoy
    Well, yeah.
  16. GTSBoy
    Engine damper https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JJR-Engine-Damper-Kit-Nissan-Skyline-R33-R34-GTR/371514228212?hash=item567ff93df4:g:2DAAAOSwNyFWeMlm
  17. GTSBoy
    AFM is probably full of cobwebs, dirt or rust. Same with its terminals. Fuel pump could be soft.
  18. GTSBoy
    Um, 1. Somebody extended it to that spot so they could use something that plugs into one at that spot. 2. Shorten the wires?
  19. GTSBoy
    It's cool. Don't run it as plastic too long. It will probably break quite quickly unless you seriously add some beef to it.
  20. GTSBoy

    WTB Evo 9

    GTSBoy replied to Exodus01's topic in Wanted to Buy

    This. https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Mitsubishi-Lancer-2006/SSE-AD-5349452/?Cr=0 Bloke works with me. Car is good. Well looked after and hasn't been abused. Mods and E85 tuning by Steve Knight.
  21. GTSBoy
    You are not listening. There are 2 boost sensors. I'm not talking about the factory boost solenoid. I am talking about boost sensors. OK, we're mixing terms. They are both MAP sensors. One runs the gauge. The other is connected to the ECU and the ECU uses it exactly as I said in my first post. THAT is the one that has some sort of problem. Have you removed it? Disconnected it? If so, then there is your problem.
  22. GTSBoy
    That car (chassis) was available with that engine so it's not a problem. You will have to have the equivalent brakes on it, and it will have to be scrupulously roadworthy to pass Regency if it needs to go over the pits. If it hasn't been rego'd here before, you will need to make an application for the modification, get an ID inspection and then get the tech inspection. So make sure it is the right height, lights, horn, demister, wipers and all that shit works. Make sure seatbelts aren't frayed, chassis rails are not dented, rust is not present in the chassis, numberplates are not modified, oil is not leaking, dampers are not leaking, tyres are good, wheels are not stupid size (so track is within limits) suspension arms aren't illegal, exhaust is quiet enough, door lock striker rubber covers are present, tyre placard is present and correct, ECU is standard (for that engine), emissions controls are present and working, windscreen is in good condition, tint is not too dark......um, have I forgotten anything?
  23. GTSBoy
    Well, obviously, if you have nothing in there to keep the mist in the engine the mist is going to flow to your catch can setup and you will have to deal with an increased amount of oil - whatever that "dealing with" entails. They should have foam in them and if they don't they will still "work", for a given smaller value of the term "work".
  24. GTSBoy
    I drove one of those RB20E R33s. I got out and walked. Was faster. f**k they are a terrible idea. Stupid Japanese rego rules.
  25. GTSBoy
    It should. The thing that matters is the 4 bolt holes on the water pump and the water pump on the RB30 is Nissan OEM the same as the RB20s & 25s. You could check for yourself by posting up the dimensions of your RB30 bolt PCD and one of us could post up the dims from a 20/25 pump/hub. I have one spare in the shed, for example. But caution is warranted. Your noise could just be because the clutch has seized and makes more noise than it should because the fan is locked on. Simple seizure is not the only possible failure. They can over-react to temperature too, locking up cooler than they should, leading to more noise. My RB25's fan clutch is like that. Sounds like a Navara or Patrol as soon as the weather gets hot, whereas my old RB20 clutch was fine (until it seized up and died altogether).
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