GTSBoy

Get the R32 GTR workshop manual off the 'net. Full wring diagrams for GTR and GTS4 in there (RB20). Will help you with wire colours at plugs. But that looks close to a write off! Ick!

There's no differences in any of the vanilla RB25DET heads.

Wait wait wait. You said, and I quote "after that the clutch stopped engaging". Do you really mean "it stopped disengaging?" As in.....it no longer releases. Because if you did, you know that's the exact opposite don't you? It also changes what the possible causes are.

The logic is actually fairly simple. Taller diff gears put more load on the engine, so you will get more boost in lower gears with a taller diff. This is good. And in the 1980s, people like Corky Bell were telling people to make use of the extra torque available from adding a turbo to their NA car by using higher rear gears. But between any two turbo cars that are identical except for the diff gears, the car with the shorter diff will accelerate faster in any given gearbox ratio than the one with taller gears. It's dead simple maths there. The difference can swing the other way when specific road/track conditions are brought into consideration. If you can save a gear change on a straight by using taller gears then the poofteenth of a second saved going up and down a gear might make the lap faster. Same on the strip. Save a change at 95% of the run and maybe go faster. I am of the opinion that my car (an R32 with 4.11 diff and a Neo) would probably be a nicer street car with 3.7 diff gears. 1st gear is really very short right now. On a launch you really want to short shift it because it's just going to break traction anyway. 2nd gear not much better. So if I had a taller rear in it I might get a slightly softer launch that retains traction and lets me run to higher revs (and consequently much higher road speed) in each of 1st and 2nd, making the car actually faster to reach any given road speed.

It broke. Take it to a mechanic.

That is not good. Transfer case doing horrible things.

25HP of N2O injected from 2000rpm onwards.

Super charger. /thread.

Do a 5s google search for R32 hinges and look at all the threads that turn up just from sau.com.au. Astonishing.

So it's a dumb canister with a check valve. Sounds impossible to make a substitute.

Do you know the meaning of the word radius?

At about 50s in this video you can see a (Toyota) slave stroking. They all need to do about the same travel to release the clutch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p77NuzSraUQ

Don't assume the bellhousing bolt pattern is the same between FWD and RWD. The access to fit the bolts in is not always the same on FWDs. F'rigzample, I'm pretty sure the FWD & RWD SR20s are not the same and require fiddling to swap.

Do you know if the RWD VQs will happily bolt to the FWD VQ gearboxen? I was going to ask "since when has there ever been a VQ powered manual Maxima?" and then I looked on Wiki and was surprised to see that Nissan actually made some. Seems totally out of character/market segment for a Maxima though. I wonder how many are actually out there in the wild?

How much movement are you getting at the slave piston on a full pedal stroke? Reason I ask is that failing master cylinder or slave cylinder is just as likely to be the cause as anything else.

It is just a dumb canister though, isn't it? In which case, anything of similar volume with a hose barb on it can do the job. An EFI fuel filter, for example (with one of the hose barbs sealed off by your dodgy means of choice). Or you could make one up out of a short bit of ~2" ally tube and some ally sheet if you're a fab nut.

To be fair, the majority of the length of the run under the engine is hard pipe and there is only rubber at the ends. If it's a hose, it should be possible to do it without getting the whole engine up, but the one down at the rack end might be a pain in the arse. If it's the hard line that's split, then engine out/up, for absolute sure.

Springs are not dampers and dampers are not springs.

Go ask a car air-con place. That's what I would do here in Oz if I weren't surrounded by Jap import spares shops.

Should drive fine. That's the whole point of having the curves for the different AFMs ready to go. but it will need to be tuned before you put any significant load on it, because it will not be right enough. As to the wires.....google is your friend. There would have to be thousands of posts on the topic just on this forum alone.

You can't do it yourself unless you have the full vacuum evacuator rig. You just need to take it to an air-con workshop and get it done. Trust me.

I described the "direct feed" above. That's the way it works. Wire it up like that and it will either work, or something is broken.

Many of us suggest changing the whole engine, or the whole car, because we did the piecemeal upgrade and learnt that it would have been better to bite the bullet and just swap.

130000 kays! Hah! Even if you see one, don't believe the hype. Stock! Even more Hah! Have a look at the fore sale ads on here for some guidance of what sort of things are trading hands amongst the people who know more or less what they're worth. That's the only broad price guide you're going to get. After that, you will either be looking at a car which is so nice that you'll pay whatever inflated price the guy is asking for to make sure you get it, or you'll be looking at one of the 11ty bungers out there that have at least something wrong with them and trying to work out what you're willing to pay to take on the problems associated with it. For some explanation of why I don't give you any price guidance. I bought my R32 last century for just over 20k. A couple of years ago it was worth maybe $7k. Nowadays, some people will tell you that an example like mine that is well looked after and presents well is going to be able to get >$20k again. That's unprovable unless I sell it. Finding another example like mine that's for sale is not going to be easy, as there are so few R32s still circulating, let alone in decent condition. You can only base the >20k guess on what the normal stock are trading for. R34s are not quite in that basket yet, being 5+ years newer, but really, it can't be long before the same is going to be broadly true.

2 wires! The speed sensor will not work with 1 wire. I do not know why I have to say this in every single one of these threads. It's a fricken AC signal.