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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    Isn't this where everyone just says RIPS?
  2. GTSBoy
    Non-HICAS subframe goes in. You keep your uprights, which means you keep your fork type suspension units. So far happy happy. You need the toe control arm outer bush inserts (from the non-HICAS car, or preferably new) to replace the HICAS tie-rod outer balljoints. Easy enough with the usual brute force and a press. All bushes are otherwise the same and will swap.
  3. GTSBoy
    Trouble is, the tyres are a mixed bag. No-one in their right mind would drive them as a "set". So their value to a purchaser is not really all that high. OK, so 2 of them appear to be at least the same tyre. But the other 2 are non-brand yucky stuff. Even if they were a matched set of tyres, 2nd hand tyres suffer a massive discount in buyer's minds. In this case, if I were looking to buy these wheels, I would actually consider them to be worth more without tyres, because I would have to pay to have them taken off and disposed of in order to put on the tyres that I actually want to use. That's just me, and there are no doubt more sketchy guys out there who would be happy to use mixed tyres, but then these guys aren't the sort to offer top $ for a set of wheels either.
  4. GTSBoy
    Low will not affect anything. The simple answer is just to disable HICAS* (because of its love of the cawk) and if the problem persists then it is mechanical, in a steering joint. The longer answer is that it could be either a HICAS problem or a problem with a steering joint (ie, tie rod end, most likely) and I can't see how it could be diagnosed over the 'net unless someone has had and solved the exact same issue. *By "disable HICAS" I mean a complete HICAS delete kit.
  5. GTSBoy
    They're glued in. I just leave it to my panel guy.
  6. GTSBoy
    Broken AAC screw is not a good indicator that all is well inside it!
  7. GTSBoy
    Colour me befuddled. What use is a power curve that looks like that?
  8. GTSBoy
    Cool. Although I'm not sure why they bother. Would that only be a typical 3 port valve to use with the internal WG? I can't see someone with super tricky boost control on an ext WG wanting it.
  9. GTSBoy
    They are R32 GTR wheels. They are very good wheels, but just too small for actual use on a GTR these days. They are worth what you can convince someone to pay for them. If in good nick, certainly close to $1000.
  10. GTSBoy
    You can get EFRs with internal or external wastegate exhaust housings. The recirc valve is typically built into the compressor housing. No, there is no "inbuilt" MAC valve. The MAC valve is part of the boost controller setup, not the turbo (on any turbo). I don't know specifically which housings are available for the 8374, because I'm not interested in putting a turbo that big on my car so I don't waste my time looking into it. But there would have to be ~1000 posts on that turbo on these forums just in the last 6 months. So there is plenty of info just on here, let alone on the BW website.
  11. GTSBoy
    The static toe is set by the tie rod length (or toe control arm with no HICAS), which, for the purposes of the geometry of the swinging of the wheel, is a 3rd link (actually a 4h link) that swings through a different arc than the lower control arm that it runs near. Different locations for the inner and out ends. Causes a small tweak to the path of the other arms.
  12. GTSBoy
    Would imply that the switch is borked. Take it out and dismantle it. You might find it's just dirty/arced up and some CO contact cleaner could help. Or you might find something plastic is broken inside and it can be brought back to life with araldite & cable ties or something.
  13. GTSBoy
    Everyone else's traction arm length will be specific to; Which car - R32 different to R33/4, etc, Upper control arm length, Static toe setting. So there's no point in trying to compare too many apples with oranges. You have likely found a setting which is far better than what you had before. If your jig is a bit rough, then maybe it's not the best setting possible, but still better. If you want to consider an alternative way of doing it, strap a mirror onto the hub or disc face. Place a board upright, parallel to the car about 2-3m out from the side of the car. Clip some paper onto the board. Shoot a laser point at the mirror from a spot close to the edge of the board/paper so that it reflects onto the paper. Keep the total angle as small as you can. Jack the hub up and down and mark the reflection points on the paper. You will get a line that goes up and down as the hub swings through its arc. Any forward/backward motion of the reflected dot is bump steer. You can change the arm length and generate another curve on the same piece of paper. Do this and get worse bump steer? Make the opposite change. Then just increase or decrease arm length until the line is as close to vertical as possible. It has the beauty of not needing to work in the same place to adjust the arm as your jig/dial gauge/whatever measurements are being taken. It's less quantitative as to how big the toe change is in mm unless you measure the change on the paper and do some trig to work out the swing at the wheel, but that hardly matters, because all we're looking for is the smallest amount of bump steer.
  14. GTSBoy
    What ECU? Asking DET ECU to run from DE AFM or vice versa would not be recommended. As to the vacuum line....it sounds like it is breathing through this hose at idle. If you cannot close it, it implies that the idle control valve is not working.
  15. GTSBoy
    Glazed rotors can be brought back with garnet paper.
  16. GTSBoy
    There's a number of people who like the S series Borg Warner turbos....but that's not what I was thinking of. I was thinking of their modern tech turbos, the EFR range. I strongly suggest that you start reading the various (dozens) of threads on here that already discuss all these things. Also go to the BW website and play with their matchbot. Wastegate will probably want to be 60mm, or possibly twin 40mm, depending on the manifold and the turbo chosen. True split pulse manifolds and turbos deserve proper split pulse wastegating. When it comes to the MAC valve......I don't know. I assume you will be trying to use the Haltech to do boost control. I do not know what its capabilities are (whether it can run only one valve or if it can run two). One is usually enough. You are asking for high power levels, which means boost control quality will be important. Using an external gate at least allows you to use a multi-port MAC valve to apply control to both sides of the diaphragm. There's more reading in that for you too.
  17. GTSBoy
    Yuh. Simple rule of thumb. On petrol, on a 6 cylinder engine, each cc of capacity of a single injector is approximately 1HP. 1000cc -> ~1000HP. At the flywheel. You take ~75% of that for conversion to kW. So, 750kW. You take 75% of that to account for typical* 25% chassis dyno losses, and 750 engine kW becomes ~560rwkW. You need at least 30% extra fuel when running E85, so divide 560 by 1.3 to get a rough guide to how much power you can squeeze from 1000cc injectors on E85....It's only ~430. A long way from 500. * Aussie Dyno Dynamics dynos seem to throw about that much power into the air. US dynos read higher fractions of the engine power. Other countries/brands may be just about anywhere. Now, keep in mind that the injector rule of thumb and the dyno loss and the E85 rule of thumb all have wiggle room in them, but realistically, not enough to say that you will be comfortably making 500rwkW..........And then I look at your OP again and realise that you said 500rwHP and that changes things. That's only ~660 engine HP and therefore probably require up to ~900cc injectors. So 1000cc injectors will probably do it.
  18. GTSBoy
    Take it to a mechanic who has a decent scan tool and see what's shaking.
  19. GTSBoy
    ECU will be fine. You might consider that the best way to make 500rwkW will be with E85, in which case you would require larger injectors. Not to mention some serious fuel pump + wiring. A single Walbro 400 will be teetering on the edge on 98, let alone on pineapple juice. Poncams are shit. Think about getting something with more lift. While on the topic, seriously think about a decent port job. That's free power right there. GT35R. Um. How about something with a T4 flange and a Borg Warner badge? Top mount manifold, big external gate, big dump pipe and at least a MAC valve required for boost control here. You will probably run out of spark before you get there. So budget for an ignition upgrade too. At least some new stockers/Splitfires, but better option would be a pencil coil of some sort (Yaris/Celica/Audi/R35GTR, etc).
  20. GTSBoy
    Can't fit Nistune != good car :p
  21. GTSBoy
    Oh, in that case, just throw a match in it and claim it on insurance.
  22. GTSBoy
    Given that it is illegal to modify plates at all, you might want to consider your options. Even bending the ends forward to make a normal slimline fit in the gap in the front bumper is a no-no. I have my front one bent, and the guy at Regency came close to demanding that I straighten it on site before he would let me drive the car away - instead making me promise to straighten it (and hence find a mounting solution that would allow it to be straight without rubbing off the paint!) at home. Granted, I then broke my promise and it is still like it.....but that's me not planning on getting pulled over by a really shitty cop. I think that the alternative to the slimline plates, where the plate is double height, but not as wide, actually makes more sense on R3x Skylines for the rear. That's over the choice of normal or slimline. The Jap plate holder is intended to take a tall plate. There's not really a good solution for the front. Placing a standoff behind the plate so that the outer ends can sit in front of the bumper past the ends of the recess is about the only legal approach. Bending and cutting are not acceptable.
  23. GTSBoy
    Well, yes, he clearly (to us) means the pulsation dampener.
  24. GTSBoy
    What does the eFlexFuel box do? What is its purpose? Reason I ask is, it wouldn't be a necessary item to run e85 via a Nistuned factory ECU. If it is some sort of interceptor to artificially boost injector pulse widths to make them work on e85, then I would suggest not using is, or the kit. Just do the job properly. New injectors, big pump, Nistuned ECU.
  25. GTSBoy
    It will work on the Stag if you Nistune the ECU with the appropriate feature pack. But let me ask you something. What do you mean by "flex fuel kit"?
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