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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    That's not flex. That just E85. Flex means flexible.
  2. GTSBoy
    How do you make a PFC do flex?
  3. GTSBoy
    Supertech are the only other one I can think of as I'm running out the office door.
  4. GTSBoy
    Intake valves are larger than exhaust valves. At this point.....surely it would be wise to look at aftermarket suppliers, rather than trying to get stockers. Look at Ferrea and all the other good valve suppliers.
  5. GTSBoy
    No, I meant stock gasket with a spray, and suck it & see. If that doesn't work, then you're going to have to pull it all apart. But if it does work, you're no worse off, in fact a lot better off than you are now.
  6. GTSBoy
    Thats' about your only option.
  7. GTSBoy
    For completeness, I had my traction arms out the other day. They have adjustable bushes in them, so the stock length is a guesstimate. But I'd say that at zero adjustment the length is 210mm. At full adjust (as they were on my car) they are 213-214.
  8. GTSBoy
    Yes, you tune Nistune on a laptop. Have to buy a license. So Nistune will end up costing more. But it's not 1996 any more. Piggybacks are not cool.
  9. GTSBoy
    What is it about Nistune that you can't adjust yourself?
  10. GTSBoy
    Nistune would be smarter than any piggyback crap. The NA ECU should be able to do what you need - doesn't matter that it was auto. Nistune will actually help you to get rid of codes that the ECU will probably throw from not having the auto's TCU on-line. If you have to buy injectors, don't buy stock DET injectors. Buy some brand new Bosch injectors (or similar) from Scotty (or similar). Any big pump will do. The 255 is reasonable, but there are newer Walbros that better suit E85, for some future proofing. If you do use Nistune, grab a Z32 AFM, or an R35 blade AFM and fit that instead. No point hamstringing yourself with the NA RB25 AFM. And upgrade the brakes. And fit an LSD.
  11. GTSBoy
    Mental as in rust below the side windows is not a good thing. It has started under the window's seal and spread. There will probably also be rust on the other side of the panel. Take the rear trim out and inspect. You may be better off doing almost anything else with the car rather than spend on rust repairs there.
  12. GTSBoy
    Hi, Good news. FYI, current is measured in just Amps (or milliAmps). An Amp-hour is a measure of battery capacity, being the product of a current and a length of time. You just need to talk about Amps. And for measuring big currents, you need a clamp meter. Gets the meter out of the circuit and infers the current by electromagnetism. Worth the cost at Jaycar.
  13. GTSBoy
    Download the R34 manual and follow the wiring diagram. The most likely thing though is that some arsehat will have strapped some permanently powered device onto that supply, so it won't be on the diagram.
  14. GTSBoy
    Cardogawanker may be clickbait....but realistically, he's right about not buying Holden. Holden is dead. Why would you voluntarily buy something that will become an unsupported orphan? And it's not as if the new Commode has anything to offer over the zillion other FWD pussboxes in the same segment. In fact, it is blandest amongst the bland. VF, is another story. High point at the tail end of a sad story.
  15. GTSBoy
    All the above is valid. Easiest 1st step is to simply rotate all the fuses in their clips in the fuse box, in case there's some corrrosion causing a poor connection. I have had to do that more than once to clear weird intermittent elec gremlins.
  16. GTSBoy
    I had to grease all the rod ends on both sides. This is explicitly against their advice...but we all know that people who really use rod ends on race cars keep them lubed. The sphericals in the main body on the other side of the car are still moving freely enough at this stage. It's about 8 months now, but when the bearings got tight enough to upset me was a couple months ago. Only about 4000km of use up to that point, I think. I can't fault their service.
  17. GTSBoy
    The coolant should be left going through it as it is the high point bleeder on the whole circuit. "Bypassing" is by just blocking off its air supply is a bit crude. You own't have idle up for air-con or high electrical load. But if it's already idling high, that's probably not going to stall you out. I would try another ECU.
  18. GTSBoy
    and again......... GK-Tech sent me a new main body for the one with stuck sphericals. Very nice of them to do so.
  19. GTSBoy
    There's not enough benefit in changing to GTR stuff to warrant the effort & cost. 5 bolters are plenty strong enough.
  20. GTSBoy
    Isn't this where everyone just says RIPS?
  21. GTSBoy
    Non-HICAS subframe goes in. You keep your uprights, which means you keep your fork type suspension units. So far happy happy. You need the toe control arm outer bush inserts (from the non-HICAS car, or preferably new) to replace the HICAS tie-rod outer balljoints. Easy enough with the usual brute force and a press. All bushes are otherwise the same and will swap.
  22. GTSBoy
    Trouble is, the tyres are a mixed bag. No-one in their right mind would drive them as a "set". So their value to a purchaser is not really all that high. OK, so 2 of them appear to be at least the same tyre. But the other 2 are non-brand yucky stuff. Even if they were a matched set of tyres, 2nd hand tyres suffer a massive discount in buyer's minds. In this case, if I were looking to buy these wheels, I would actually consider them to be worth more without tyres, because I would have to pay to have them taken off and disposed of in order to put on the tyres that I actually want to use. That's just me, and there are no doubt more sketchy guys out there who would be happy to use mixed tyres, but then these guys aren't the sort to offer top $ for a set of wheels either.
  23. GTSBoy
    Low will not affect anything. The simple answer is just to disable HICAS* (because of its love of the cawk) and if the problem persists then it is mechanical, in a steering joint. The longer answer is that it could be either a HICAS problem or a problem with a steering joint (ie, tie rod end, most likely) and I can't see how it could be diagnosed over the 'net unless someone has had and solved the exact same issue. *By "disable HICAS" I mean a complete HICAS delete kit.
  24. GTSBoy
    They're glued in. I just leave it to my panel guy.
  25. GTSBoy
    Broken AAC screw is not a good indicator that all is well inside it!
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