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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    I'd be willing to bet that there is no difference between early and late R345 loom plugs anywhere.
  2. GTSBoy
    Some bits bolt on. Some bits are welded on. Have a look at your car and try to work it out for yourself.
  3. GTSBoy
    Bullshit. You should not have to move your torso to steer.
  4. GTSBoy
    That centre only works with the equal length stubs from the open R200s. I think that the splines on them are different to the Nismo LSD splines. You may be shit out of luck or have to buy an open diff to harvest the stubs and hope they're strong enough. Oh...but the open stubs are all 3x2 bolt, not 5 bolt.
  5. GTSBoy
    What diff centre are you using? The GTR one? As far as I know, there are no Quaifes for the non-GTR versions. FWIW, the stock VLSD has uneven length splines, unlike the GTR diff (or any other similar mech LSD) which are even length. Which is why when you buy a Nismo diff for these cars (for example) you get supplied new stub axles to suit, as you can't make a mech type centre take the long stub that works in the viscous centre.
  6. GTSBoy
    That's the part. I helped grind the end off and drive the rest out of an R33 the other day. Good riddance. Stupid f**king design on Nissan's behalf. There are a dozen better ways they could have done it (including never putting HICAS on in the first place!)
  7. GTSBoy
    I believe he is talking about early and late R34s, which are not as different as S1 and S2 R33s. I'm pretty sure he's not talking about cross pollinating R33 stuff onto a Neo.
  8. GTSBoy
    I can't imagine why anyone would waste the effort required to poor an S14 diff (the stock one) into a Skyline. Does the invoice describe the diff in any other terms? If it is an aftermarket centre that was intended for an S14, but got put in to the R34 CW&P and housing, then that's a whole 'nother thing.
  9. GTSBoy
    No you don't. As in, you don't need to replace them. Piss of the HICAS altogether. Eliminator kits come with something to go back in where those bushes come out of (with a lot of violence!)
  10. GTSBoy
    Neither S14s nor R34s have mechanical LSDs with "teeth*". They are viscous** and they are poo anyway (when new) and only get worse as they get older. They are not "fixable", as no-one would bother going to the effort to repair a viscous centre. The ratio on an S14 diff is also very tall, so your speedo should be reading very low cf. your actual speed. All in all, it's enough to wonder if it is true that you have an S14 diff in there. Do some reading on here for the millions of recommendations on what to do for diffs in these cars. Thousands and thousands of threads. * Lots of teeth actually - but they are not what makes it "slip" or not slip. Broken teeth = insta-death for most diffs. ** Unless a rare R34 with a helical diff.
  11. GTSBoy
    Putting a stainless sleeve into a master along with a new seal kit takes a couple of hours at a brake specialist.
  12. GTSBoy
    This. It will be this.
  13. GTSBoy
    Do you still want to be able to drive it?
  14. GTSBoy
    There's a whole thread stickied at the top of this very forum.
  15. GTSBoy
    Idle control valve dirty/borked is most likely cause of rough idle behaviour as you decelerate.
  16. GTSBoy
    Ask them. I'd suggest they'd do it in a heartbeat.
  17. GTSBoy
    While that is true....when it comes to asbestos, you might be surprised where it was still turning up. Not that I know one way or the other about R34s, but I understand some other Jap cars from that era still had it.
  18. GTSBoy
    If they'd just put a kit together for Neo I'd be all over it like a fat kid on a smorgasboard.
  19. GTSBoy
    Small correction. A lot of people also call the commutator that passes wiring into and out of the steering wheel (ie, horn buttons, cruise control, stereo buttons) the clockspring. It is quite possible that this is common to steering angle sensors on newer cars. On R32 at least, the only wire coming into the steering wheel is for the horn. You can see that connector on the lower left of the photo above. The drive pin for engaging the steering wheel is opposite. I guess that makes the SAS the "clockspring" on this too.
  20. GTSBoy
    Yup. Same same. Not same same between 32/33 of course. Just any given RWD/AWD pair.
  21. GTSBoy
    Yuh, custom cut gears are always cheap.
  22. GTSBoy
    No, if I had to guess, I'd say the exact opposite. The clockspring will be deeper down. The SAS would be right at the top, because there is a pin off the back of the steering wheel hub that drives it. At least, that's how it is on the R32. I've never pulled the wheel off an R33. In fact, it doesn't matter, because I only had a car with HICAS on it for a very short time before I taught myself how to take off and nuke it (HICAS) from orbit. It's the only way to be sure that it won't f**k up your life. This is what the top of an R32 steering column looks like. SAS is what you're seeing.
  23. GTSBoy
    Nope. Clock spring is the mechanism for making the indicators latch and release. Steering angle sensor is a separate thing. They can die. The little pin from the steering wheel that engages the sensor and drives it around can possibly break too, or if some hamfisted bumblef**k has had the wheel off and not put it back on correctly, then simply not engaged. It needs to read zero angle while the car is driving straight or it will eventually go into fault, because the car literally cannot hold a set steering angle while >5km/h for more than a few seconds. The sensor is expected to continually change value, or fault out.
  24. GTSBoy
    You planning on a hinged flappy lid for the fuel opening?
  25. GTSBoy
    Yuh. A winter tyre here is a summer tyre in Canadia.
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