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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    To be fair, the pencil coils are about 7 million times a better solution than those huge truck coils.
  2. GTSBoy
    I suspect that what was meant is that when the switch is moved to "up" it successfully connects the terminals together (and given that these things switch on the earth side, that means that it provides an earth to the circuit) and that that does not happen on the down side of the switch. If it were me, I would disassemble this switch and investigate what is not working inside. I have done this several times with the headlight switch in my car, because they tend to get a bit dirty from arcing as they open and close. I'd be sure that the window switches would also be dismantlable, and could be cleaned, or new brass strips made (if needed) or even plastic repairs done with epoxy or (appropriate) superglue to make it work.
  3. GTSBoy
    18V angle grinder beats all these day. No padlock anywhere is safe. No cast pot metal steering column hub cap is going to beat one either.
  4. GTSBoy
    Stay below 2500 rpm and 25% throttle. If it actually runs properly, you will be able to drive it.
  5. GTSBoy
    I don't know the rules where you are......but I simply wouldn't go near anything that could cause me that much trouble without a steeeeeep discount.
  6. GTSBoy
    Best to test shit first. ECU might be good. Wiring might be duff. New ECU wouldn't help that!
  7. GTSBoy
    If you know anyone with a portable LCD CRO or are willing to buy a cheap USB one for your phone, you could test the waveform more thoroughly. Otherwise, you may be into the realm of swaptronics. Actually, if you have or can borrow an analogue multimeter, you might see something on that. It should sit at 12V (if you probe the ignitor connection from the ECU with the other side of the meter on earth). If the ECU pulls the ignitor down to earth, even briefly, it might be enough to make the needle flicker down from 12V.
  8. GTSBoy
    Try with a globe test light first. If you see nothing, you might try the LED.
  9. GTSBoy
    Entirely possible the ECU's ignition outputs have been fried. Try putting a test light from power to an ignition line from the ECU (at the ignitor would be convenient and see if you even get a flicker of light when the ECU should be switching the output to ground. Pulsewidth might not be enough to get a glow, but if you do get a glow, at least you can assume that that ECU output is working.
  10. GTSBoy
    Let's just say that you need to be making stupid power before the time, effort and cost required to put a GTR diff into a GTSt, just to get a small improvement in strength on those parts becomes worth it. The 5 bolt stuff is very strong. You can put a 1.5 way mech centre into the GTSt diff without having to change all that other stuff. And then, on top of that, the GTR stock mech centre is usually swapped out by people looking for a more capable LSD anyway, as it is not very aggressive. As to what oil.....so long as you're not talking about viscous GTSt diffs (which do NOT require LSD oil) then pretty much any LSD oil will do. But more particularly, different brands of mechanical diff work better with different oils. Nismo send the diff to you with Nismo oil, Cusco send Cusco oil, Kaaz ditto, etc etc. Some of those even work better with different oils than what the maker recommends (ie, maybe less LSD action, but nicer manners). So, the important thing is to pick your diff first, then ask the oil question. And the best mechanical diff for a street car (assuming we're talking about a streeter here) is a helical, and they don't need LSD oil either.
  11. GTSBoy
    Think about how little work there would be in a "prostitute's rebuild". Dismantle, wash, hone bores, new rings, new bearings at the most. New gaskets. Close her up and send her back to work. It's equivalent to scraping the scabs out.
  12. GTSBoy
    Yuh, hence why I said what I said. Without knowing whether it lines up on that car/dyno combo, you don't quite have enough info to assume. FWIW, torque climbs from low to max in an NA....there is no boost to "set" the torque level. That efficiency/breathing function is still present in a turbo engine too. So if the boost comes up to max before the engine has reached its inherent torque plateau, then the torque should still lag the boost.
  13. GTSBoy
    Why change from 4.083 to 4.11? Makes no sense. You will never tell the difference. As to the LSD.....The Nismos are broadly considered to be the nicest. 1.5 way for the street. 2 way for hardcore carpark action. After that, Cusco, etc etc, are all rather similar. Some have different features (like being able to alter the config from 1 to 1.5 to 2 way). Some are really harsh to live with but can be moderated a little with different oils. Have a read on here for mentions. If I was to replace my helical, I would probably go Nismo.
  14. GTSBoy
    The switch is under the lever. You need to remove the console to see it. Up until you said it coincided with the thump event, I would have said "check the globe". I still think that coincidence is possible and that you should check the globe.
  15. GTSBoy
    Both videos sound exactly like GTR BOV fart on RB25. Mine does the same noise, but it in no way slows the car down.
  16. GTSBoy
    Torque line is not boost line.
  17. GTSBoy
    The gearboxes are effectively the same part, so it would have lasted the same.
  18. GTSBoy
    You might have to pull it apart and give it a prostitute's rebuild.
  19. GTSBoy
    Is that with your head tilted to the side, or looking out the corner of your eye?
  20. GTSBoy
    Underneath?
  21. GTSBoy
    Yes....but caution is advised. RB30 is 2 valve engine, so the valve reliefs on high comp RB25 pistons might not be right for the larger RB30 valves.
  22. GTSBoy
    The resulting compression ratio is NOT the same. One has a 500cc per cylinder swept volume and the other has 416cc per cylinder swept volume. Put the smaller cylinder's head on the large cylinder and the ratio will go up. A lot. Put the large cylinder's head onto the small cylinder and the ratio will go down. A lot.
  23. GTSBoy
    The ratio is stamped on the edge of the crownwheel (# of CW teeth and # of pinion teeth). Take the cover off and see for yourself.
  24. GTSBoy
    The only thing that is definitely the case is that they are NOT 5x100. You could measure the PCD yourself and work this out in about 3.2 seconds. Now, the possibilities are.....Wedsport, despite being a "brand name" are a lazy bunch of f**ktards and can't be arsed having the right sizing in the moulds for wheels that they are making. Or.....you and your mates have been buying fakes, and the lazy Chinese ccommunist arseholes ripping off Wedsport are too lazy to do a good job of faking the sizing in the casting.
  25. GTSBoy
    Just get an ecutalk? Do we need a <sarcasm> tag?
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