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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. They do get to the point where they stop letting the air come through though.
  2. The coils fit but it's not the coils doing it.
  3. Of course you should do that. 8:1 is 1980s CR for boost. But you won't get that increase by changing the head. You'll need pistons. 20% increase in capacity means a 20% increase in head flow wouldn't be a bad idea. Easily achieved with sensible porting. 1mm bigger valves gives the perfect opportunity to properly do the seat angles and shape the bowl into the back of the seats. And there goes 5 grand.
  4. A loose wire with a quick connect on it implies not original. So you're guess as good as ours. You have the advantage of being able to follow it back to where it came from and report back on what you find.
  5. I'd be willing to bet that there is no difference between early and late R345 loom plugs anywhere.
  6. Some bits bolt on. Some bits are welded on. Have a look at your car and try to work it out for yourself.
  7. Bullshit. You should not have to move your torso to steer.
  8. That centre only works with the equal length stubs from the open R200s. I think that the splines on them are different to the Nismo LSD splines. You may be shit out of luck or have to buy an open diff to harvest the stubs and hope they're strong enough. Oh...but the open stubs are all 3x2 bolt, not 5 bolt.
  9. What diff centre are you using? The GTR one? As far as I know, there are no Quaifes for the non-GTR versions. FWIW, the stock VLSD has uneven length splines, unlike the GTR diff (or any other similar mech LSD) which are even length. Which is why when you buy a Nismo diff for these cars (for example) you get supplied new stub axles to suit, as you can't make a mech type centre take the long stub that works in the viscous centre.
  10. That's the part. I helped grind the end off and drive the rest out of an R33 the other day. Good riddance. Stupid f**king design on Nissan's behalf. There are a dozen better ways they could have done it (including never putting HICAS on in the first place!)
  11. I believe he is talking about early and late R34s, which are not as different as S1 and S2 R33s. I'm pretty sure he's not talking about cross pollinating R33 stuff onto a Neo.
  12. I can't imagine why anyone would waste the effort required to poor an S14 diff (the stock one) into a Skyline. Does the invoice describe the diff in any other terms? If it is an aftermarket centre that was intended for an S14, but got put in to the R34 CW&P and housing, then that's a whole 'nother thing.
  13. No you don't. As in, you don't need to replace them. Piss of the HICAS altogether. Eliminator kits come with something to go back in where those bushes come out of (with a lot of violence!)
  14. Neither S14s nor R34s have mechanical LSDs with "teeth*". They are viscous** and they are poo anyway (when new) and only get worse as they get older. They are not "fixable", as no-one would bother going to the effort to repair a viscous centre. The ratio on an S14 diff is also very tall, so your speedo should be reading very low cf. your actual speed. All in all, it's enough to wonder if it is true that you have an S14 diff in there. Do some reading on here for the millions of recommendations on what to do for diffs in these cars. Thousands and thousands of threads. * Lots of teeth actually - but they are not what makes it "slip" or not slip. Broken teeth = insta-death for most diffs. ** Unless a rare R34 with a helical diff.
  15. Putting a stainless sleeve into a master along with a new seal kit takes a couple of hours at a brake specialist.
  16. Do you still want to be able to drive it?
  17. There's a whole thread stickied at the top of this very forum.
  18. Idle control valve dirty/borked is most likely cause of rough idle behaviour as you decelerate.
  19. Ask them. I'd suggest they'd do it in a heartbeat.
  20. While that is true....when it comes to asbestos, you might be surprised where it was still turning up. Not that I know one way or the other about R34s, but I understand some other Jap cars from that era still had it.
  21. If they'd just put a kit together for Neo I'd be all over it like a fat kid on a smorgasboard.
  22. Small correction. A lot of people also call the commutator that passes wiring into and out of the steering wheel (ie, horn buttons, cruise control, stereo buttons) the clockspring. It is quite possible that this is common to steering angle sensors on newer cars. On R32 at least, the only wire coming into the steering wheel is for the horn. You can see that connector on the lower left of the photo above. The drive pin for engaging the steering wheel is opposite. I guess that makes the SAS the "clockspring" on this too.
  23. Yup. Same same. Not same same between 32/33 of course. Just any given RWD/AWD pair.
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