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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    I don't think a "non-HICAS" rack is the answer. I'd be pretty sure that all that is happening is that the HICAS computer is doing what some other power steering module does in non-HICAS Nissans of the same era. They all had variable assistance power steering, implying that they all had PWM modulated solenoids on them. I have long thought that the answer to "fixing" these problems in our cars would be to look at Maximas or other shitters from the period and work out how they managed the assistance modulation, then find one of those boxes and wire it in in place of the HICAS box. Granted, these days, it is probably a perfect use of arduino stuff. Just pick up the speed signal off the back of the dash, maybe watch a few other inputs if you can be bothered, and simply write a program to run the solenoid accordingly. More assistance at low speed, less assistance at high speed.
  2. GTSBoy
    Just download the R32 GTR workshop manual and look in there. Lovely explanatory diagrams.
  3. GTSBoy
    beaucoup
  4. GTSBoy
    I'm only making ~190rwkW, so don't need a super exhaust. I just have a no-name 3" Jap exhaust (that doesn't have the 2.5" restriction). If I was to put a new exhaust on my car, to meet some enhanced power making desires, I would not buy an off the shelf "brand name" exhaust. I would get it made locally to my specs with mufflers of my choosing.
  5. GTSBoy
    Ideally you want a full exhaust. So you want a nice big dump pipe (off the turbo), big 4" or 5" cat with 200cpi (if you want it to do anything at all) or 100 cpi (if you want it to do almost nothing at all but look pretty legal) or no cat at all if you give no fark and don't mind cleaning the soot off the bumper. The exhaust should then be 3" or 3.5" with a straight through centre muffler and a big rear muffler. 3" if you future power goals are not super high, 3.5" if you're aiming for lots of power. There is an entire thread on here (search for "oil control") with hundreds of pages. Start reading at the beginning, then you can actually skip a lot of it and only read the last 20 pages or so. You will see posts towards the end guiding you to where the useful summary info starts.
  6. GTSBoy
    Turbo cars generally need high octane fuel to avoid what is called "pinging" as a slang term for detonation or pre-ignition, which is very damaging to everything facing the combustion event. Your 93 MON in the US is about the same as our 98 RON here in Oz. The cars were designed/tuned to run on 100 RON in Japan. Using lower octane fuel is a recipe for unhappiness. When I suggested looking at existing threads, I meant, use google to search for your problem symptoms, and point google at this site. You will be surprised what you can find. Read, read, read. Do not expect to get the answer handed to you in the first 2 minutes, because internet diagnose is fraught with wrongness. We can give you suggestions as to what could be wrong, but it almost always turns out to be something different (and usually stupid).
  7. GTSBoy
    Now you need to take that intercooler pipe back out, enlarge the hole through the inner guard, pain the edge of the hole (don't leave it bare steel, FFS), and put some pinchweldon the cut edge before putting the pipe back through. You have created a defect in the vehicle and you need to make it as invisible as possible, whilst also stopping it from rusting out.
  8. GTSBoy
    You in the US? You need 93 octane for a start, otherwise it will ping, especially in hot weather. But this should not cause it to stall. They will run (idle) very happily on any normal fuel. You need to look to the functioning and state of cleanliness of the idle control valve. There are about 40099922774774661191919 threads on here about exactly the same problem.
  9. GTSBoy
    Late to teh party
  10. GTSBoy
    PLAN AHEAD. And by that, I mean don't plan to use -7 -9 -5 -10 whatever GTR "upgrade turbos". Plan on something decent, like a pair of Garrett's G25s or a pair of the small BW EFRs.
  11. GTSBoy
    'seasy. Just tee a fuel pressure gauge into the line before the fuel rail.
  12. GTSBoy
    Photo is of the RHS. Red lines are dimensions of the oval cutout in the underside of the frame. 100mm x 40mm Blue line shows location of the centre of the rearmost of the two holes. Exactly 50mm from each end, ~23mm from the inside edge. ie, that hole is centred front rear, but a few mm outboard of the left-right centreline. You can see that the front end of the cutout (top of photo) has been abused slightly to allow the front bolt/socket to clear. Whether this means that my wing has been installed slightly forward of where it should be, or if there is difference in the cutouts in GTSt and GTR boot lids, or if my (non-genuine) wing has slightly different bolt locations to a genuine wing, I cannot say. I would suggest that you could make a stab at locating the wing, so it sits on top looking right, mark around it with a whiteboard marker, sit the rubber gaskets back on the boot lid without the wing and spot the bolt holes through the gasket's holes with the marker, then see if you can convince yourself that they line up with what I show from the underside (a bit of tappy tappy with a small Phillips screwdriver for example).
  13. GTSBoy
    It is trivial. But, if you need any help at all, then it will be better for you to get a nearby Nistune dealer to do the mod to the ECU, because it does involve removing conformal coating and soldering and so on. Besides that, selecting the AFM and the injectors is just drop down menu stuff. I would also suggest not cheaping out on the turbo. What is a T3/T4 ar0.50 turbo unless it is a cheap Chinesium copy of a 1980s piece of shit? At least get a Hypergear ATR, or a 2nd hand Garrett or something. Look to the dyno thread to see how good a result you can get on a big block RB with a decent turbo. And don't use GTR injectors. Brand new Bosch EV6 based injectors and similar are available for ~$100 each. Why f**k about with 1980's tech there?
  14. GTSBoy
    I'll try to get you some marked up photos of the underside bolt holes. FWIW, I think they pass through holes in the frame, so the number of possible locations is actually very limited to just about the right place.
  15. GTSBoy
    Look at what they had on NA R33s perhaps. Electric speedo, same gearbox.
  16. GTSBoy
    You do realise that R32/RB20DET gearboxes have a mechanical cable connecting them to the dash, right?
  17. GTSBoy
    In Oz or Honkers? In Oz, Lewis Race engines in Adelaide would be a good choice. As would Knight Engines, but he is usually flat out booked for a year or so in advance. I'm betting that if you did just a little googling you would find the 6 or 8 highly recommended shops in the eastern states, and the one or two really good ones in Perth too. As for CNC head porting.....waste of time unless you're wanting to do multiple heads (like dozens) and want to bring the per unit cost down. If you want the best port job, you still need to finish a CNC job by hand, because CNC porting has to be quite conservative to avoid problems caused by core shift etc etc.
  18. GTSBoy
    here
  19. GTSBoy
    Diff oil needs to stay in the diff.
  20. GTSBoy
    Yeah. Anywhere where there needs to be intercooler but is presently some other solid object, needs to be moved/removed.
  21. GTSBoy
    Pink & green labels have different wiring. They are otherwise equivalent. See this page for a partial guide http://www.paulr33.com/diagrams/airflow-meter-wiring.html
  22. GTSBoy
    Also consider fuel pump might be going soft, AFM might be unhappy in some way (dirty, whatever), injector(s) might be a little sticky. All of these things can be a bit intermittent too, like coils.
  23. GTSBoy
    It's the fusebox cover. It's just a piece of plastic that clips in and will come right off. Just pull on the handle.
  24. GTSBoy
    Are you taking the piss?
  25. GTSBoy
    To be fair, the pencil coils are about 7 million times a better solution than those huge truck coils.
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