Jump to content
SAU Community

GTSBoy

Admin
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    19,162

  • Joined

  • Days Won

    318

  • Feedback

    100%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    That's the Rolls Royce way to do it. Even a quick flick with a wire brush and a spray with some rust primer from a can will do the job though.
  2. GTSBoy
    The rail is not bent. The bottom of it has been pushed up which has pushed the sides out, but the position of the rail's centreline (left-right) is probably in exactly the same place as original and the height of the floor/straightness of the weld line along the rail/floor joints are probably not altered at all. The rail might have slightly less strength against deformation (say in a frontal collision) than it used to, but that change would be quite small. But this is the reason that they are defectable here in Australia with that sort of damage. In reality, it is pretty much just cosmetic and nearly every other Skyline on the roads is in a much worse condition. No. That rubber stuff is not "rust proofing" in that you would not put it on bare metal. it is meant to be put on top of properly prepared and rust-proofed steel, to provide an additional physical layer of protection over the chemical protection layer. If you have damaged coating on that part of the rail and you want to protect it again, you will need to hit with some protective primer and/or underbody sealer/paint and only then consider the rubber shit.
  3. GTSBoy
    The rail itself is fine to be left like that apart from rust considerations as mentioned above. Sadly, the dent is big enough that it would fail a roadworthy. So if this is an issue where you live, it would want to be fixed. I had to pull all similar dents (much closer to the front end of the rail) out of mine to make sure it was going to pass Regency when I did my engine conversion. We made a special tool that we could insert through the holes near the front to help with this. That option would not be possible with the dent shown in your photo. Too far back. It it must be repaired, then you will be cutting metal out and putting straight stuff back. Simple rule. Chassis rails like that are not strong enough for chassis stands. Too much point load on too thin a section of metal. Even the doubled up seam that Duncan pointed out is not strong enough. The only place designed to hold the car's weight is the jacking point under the sill. This doesn't help, if you're jacking there you can't put a stand there too. The only solution is to use stands that can fit under the lower inner pivots of the front suspension arms. I had to grind the edges of the tops of my chassis stands to make them slim enough to fit in there. Those points are hard enough and strong enough to hold the weight. The only time this is no good is when you need to pull the lower arms off - then you can find an alternative way, probably involving the jacking points. If you have to put chassis stands under the rails, then you need to use load spreaders, but this must be done safely, which is quite difficult. Just putting lumps of steel/wood between the rail and the stand is not safe.
  4. GTSBoy
    Not precisely. But close. 3.5 kg is a lot of mass (when you're talking about, say, uranium).
  5. GTSBoy
    US short ton is 2000lb, which is 907.44 kg. I've always cynically thought that the half ton rating on these trucks was inside the cabin. :p
  6. GTSBoy
    And a few extra thousand dollhairs, no?
  7. GTSBoy
    It'll be exhaust manifold gasket or turbo gasket leaking. I haven't bothered listening to your videos, but that's what it will be.
  8. GTSBoy
    oops
  9. GTSBoy
    Hyperboost highflow turbo (or one of his outright new turbos), Bosch EV14 based injectors at 1000cc, Walbro 460. Pod filters are all the same crap, so it doesn't matter what you choose. Don't touch the inlet manifold. Waste of money, especially on your budget.
  10. GTSBoy
    That seems satisfactory.
  11. GTSBoy
    That's fine. Just don't try to go to Dubbo. It's not just about straight line trips either. If you are on holiday and touring around a national park or similar, you're not actually getting anywhere and there may not be a charge station within cooee. As I said, depends on your usage model. It (EV) would work for me, as I only ever drive my car close to the metro area. But then I'd want to cut my wrists from the boredom associated with choosing an SUV, or anything other than a boosted turbo car.
  12. GTSBoy
    Cost of fuel is the SMALLEST part of the cost of ownership of any vehicle that's not already at EOL.
  13. GTSBoy
    Petrol engine bans in EU are a loooooong way from being relevant to Oz. EVs will become more prevalent here, but you should only consider one if it will suit your driving requirements. As soon as you live and drive any distance outside the metro area EVs start to become a sketchy proposition.
  14. GTSBoy
    No power at motor != blown motor. It means exactly the opposite.
  15. GTSBoy
    Hahha.
  16. GTSBoy
    How many have you actually tried?
  17. GTSBoy
    Here's the lesson for the day. If you don't know what you are doing (with brakes), don't f**k with brakes until you do know what you are doing. It's only the most important safety function on the car, ferchrissake!
  18. GTSBoy
    Oxy acetylene torch and a respirator.
  19. GTSBoy
    You're looking for power and earth at the wiper motor. if you find those, then the motor's f**ked. if you don't then the wiring's not continuous. Rinse and repeat until you work out what is not working. And what is a "surge" and a "cut off" in the context of what we're talking about?
  20. GTSBoy
    Have you considered the bore size of the GTS's master versus the GTST's master? With respect to the caliper piston area difference, that is?
  21. GTSBoy
    Multimeter.
  22. GTSBoy
    Any RB fits into any S chassis engine bay. 26 has been done thousands of times (literally).
  23. GTSBoy
    The (actual) TPS is on the (actual) throttle and is what tells the ECU how far open you are pushing the throttle. The throttle motor position sensor is used by the ECU and ABS/TCS computer to monitor the action of the traction control butterfly (as feedback). Neither of these are likely to be causing your problem. IACV is, however. Clean it.
  24. GTSBoy
    Wat? You buy Nistune brand new either direct from Nistune or from a local dealer. All you need to do is find an R32 or Z32 ECU.
  25. GTSBoy
    The top car is running >2° camber at the rear, which is not so good for straight line traction, but great for corners. The middle car is running f**kING HEAPS (TM) of camber at the rear, which is almost certainly to achieve the fitment of seriously wide rubber, at the complete expense of common sense and straight line traction. The bottom car looks pretty normal. For a street car you want approx -1° to -1.5° on the rear and approx -1.5° to -2° on the front. Any more starts to eat into tyre life unless you only drive it fast at night through the hills. If you want to know how much camber you have, measure it yourself (straight edge, bubble level, ruler, calculator, basic trig), or get a wheel alignment and a report.
×
×
  • Create New...