GTSBoy

And beware the asbestos demons.

Nope, because there is no concept of a "written off" car if it was "written off" outside the country where the laws describing what a repairable write off constitutes. You could bring 13 partial cars into Oz, assemble one good one from the pieces, and so long as it presents properly when it is being complied, it gets complied as if it was the same as the car that the chassis number/plate came from. OK, so maybe that was more true back in the day, but it's still feasible, even today with SEVS.

That hose supplies air from upstream the throttlebody to the idle control valve at the back of the plenum chamber. If by "raw gas" you mean petrol, then.....WTF?! There really shouldn't be any liquid petrol just rolling around in the plenum chamber, let alone finding its way back through the ICV and into that hose. By purge valve, are you talking about the fuel tank breather system? If so, there should never be liquid fuel in that either, just vapour. It would have to be dead cold for fuel vapour to recondense in there.

They might run a lot of timing at stock boost, but by the time you wind the boost up towards 10 psi the ECU starts to access the top right corner of the maps, where there is a shit ton of fuel and a massive retard of the timing. R&R is built right into the maps. Well, it certainly is on Neo maps, which I can see in Nistune, so I have no doubt that it was done that way on the vanilla ECU also (which I can't see in Nistune). And even if it isn't done that way on the vanilla ECUs, it still happens. So R&R is Nissan's self-protection mechanism to stop people from grenading stock engines. Crude and effective. But it can still all go wrong if the fuel pressure is not right (dud reg, or dud pump, etc) because lean will still ping, even with retarded timing. Basically, it's not good to wind the boost up on them without having a fix for the ECU. You can only squeeze a little more out of them before the fun police step in. The worst thing is, you wind the boost up and it feels faster than stock. So you wind up a bit more and eventually the placebo effect tells you that it's still going faster, but before too long any extra boost just results in massive fuel consumption and no more speed.

There's no problem. They are all the same cheap Chinesium shit.

The place to buy them is any eBay vendor that sells dashlight kits for Skylines. I know some people like blue dash lights. But I think they suck (they look cool but they don't help with visibility when you're looking out through the windows at the dark world and flick down to see what the gauges are saying) and prefer lights that are more traditional yellow. I put white LEDs into my R32 and think they are fine. Would prefer it if they were not so cold white though.

Come to Adelaide.

There were no turbo R31s sold in Oz. The R31 sold here was not even really the same car as the Jap R31. Solid rear end, RB30 from the VL Commodore back transplanted into a Nissan to keep it competitive here. If you're looking at an Aussie R31 wit a turbo, it has been modified. If you're looking at a non-Aussie R31, then it's a low volume import. If the RMS have no idea what car it is, the usual assumption would be that it is not legal. The system is essentially, "if it's on the list, it's good. Otherwise, go fly a kite".

They will be fine at the boost level you'll be running on 98.

The reason it can't really be used for anything super good on the stock ECU is that the IAT sensor on the RB26 is a big, heavy, slow reacting lump of shit, like a coolant temp sensor. Not suited to timing corrections, etc. But Nissan put it there for a reason - it's not on any of the other RB engines. So I must assume that they are using it to enact some sort of protection when it is simply too hot. Could be nothing more than switching to the knock map.

Oh, Nistune (in fact, obviously, the stock ECU) takes the IAT as an input. It just doesn't use it for much in the way of fuelling or timing corrections. I think it only serves as a super high temperature safe-mode trigger. I haven't looked into an RB26 bin file to see, but I'd be reasonably sure that you could see the IAT there.

You can't measure rapidly changing voltages with a DMM. That 0.5v you're seeing is probably a series of 0v & 1V pulses coming from the 360° slots. The other pin has only 6 slots so the pulses are less frequent and a bit longer, so you get to see the 1V peak.

I was going to say more than 9000, but that's awfully specific. Do you have data to back this up?

https://www.infiniti-cdn.net/content/dam/Infiniti/2017/brochures/au/Q60_v5.pdf GT is the low end. Motors get bigger as you go up the list. Interiors get more shit ladled into them as you add extra words after the base model name. Note that no-one thinks the Q60 is a worthwhile buy. That's why you never see one on the road unless it is being driven home from the dealership by the salesman.

There is fairly obviously going to be some decent suspension available in the USA for GTRs.....but don't expect too many of us to know what is good and what is shit. If you are price sensitive, then buying local will make the most sense. Buying BC makes no sense to me, because here in Oz we just go to MCA and get something that suits the usage from them. Their stuff is far far far better than BC, at not much extra cost. But for you, shipping to the US will bump that up a bit. Still.....worth a look.

There's a better than even chance that if the Tein dampers sound like they are f**ked then that would be a reason for them to ride like a billy cart.....

Shortly after you made the quoted post, I could not reply to any threads for the whole afternoon. The reply box at the bottom was grey and unresponsive. Highlighting any text in a post did not bring a pop up "quote the selected" and there were no quote buttons anywhere. I wouldn't normally say anything about this, because it has happened to me many times in the past (and yes, I was logged in), but the timing of you "making some changes" might be more than a coincidence.

It has been snappy since you started this thread. Previously there were times (random, apparently) when it would take ages to load any page.

Um..... Connect MAP sensor hose to a port on the plenum. Connect MAP sensor wiring to device that needs it. ? Profit.

Goddamn. These things do not even come up on any page of a google search.

Well, yes, you have to make sure the CAS is at the same angle. But that's easy. Just put a fine mark on the CAS adjustment slot next to the bolt that locks it. Timing light is the last resort there.

It's 2018. These questions have been dealt with for over 20 years already.

It's as easy as it looks.

Wipe some rust converter on it and stop worrying about it. Once you have driven on them for a week you will hate the car so much that you will gladly have it crash into a firey death anyway.

No. Not just the pinion. You have to swap the crownwheel over too. That's the really big gear on the outside of the diff centre. Taking a diff apart to that degree requires VERY careful measurement and setup during reassembly. It's even worse when you're Frankensteining 2 diffs together. You're description of "working but makes the car shake like a bitch" could stil mean that just about any part of your diff could be broken. My suggestion is that you should take it apart first and find out what is wrong before making plans. There is nothing superior about RB26 coils. Just look for some Splitfires to suit your actual car. Problem solved, $400USD.