GTSBoy

99% of R32 headlights are perfectly clear. Being glass, as mentioned above, they never get cloudy.

Then charge right ahead. Just put the sandwich plate directly onto the block.

Um, what? Take off the RB26 oil heat exchanger and replace with an RB30 oil filter stud. Same as it's always been. Sensor ports and supplies for V-Cam etc are simply a matter of making do with what is on the sandwich plate and using a T or 2 if needed.

Following up on this AGAIN for more posterity. After 6 months and not very many road kilometers, the "self-lubricating" teflon lined bearings started talking. And they rapidly got a lot worse. Over a distance of probably only 500km a little squawk turned into a major cacophony. The weather has been almost exclusively dry too, so it's not as if they got all wet every day and rusted. Took them apart and found that the outer rod end on the strong arm part was very tight and marked where it had been galling the outer race. The other two rod ends on the other part of the arm were also a little tight and a little marked, but not as bad. The bearings installed in the inner end of the strong arm appear to be COM10T press in rod ends (2 off) with an ally crush tube in between. A reasonable enough idea, except that these are rods ends just like the others, but don't get any weather/dust protection. So while the other rods ends have boots that do at least something, the COM10Ts are exposed. These bearings were all much harder to rotate than they were when new. I'm thinking that maybe some sort of rolling element bearing with grease seals might be worth considering on these. So I cleaned everything as well as I could, sprayed teflon spray into the COM10Ts, whacked a lot of lithium grease into the other rod ends and they're silent again. This may not be the right thing to do, but we'll find out, won't we.

I am still not happy with you. You do not need those seats in that car. You know someone who needs them more!

Too small to be useful. These would only work as the 2nd stage of a 2 tank system (methinks).

Close enough. :D

S13 same same with R32. You could always buy Hardrace from Oz and get them sent over. They are somewhat cheaper than Whiteline (which trades heavily on its name) but at least as good. Just depends on what the shipping might cost you.

They won't be R34 GT-T calipers. Those suit a 310mm rotor. They have longer legs than the R33 calipers. I haven't seen a caliper adapter that will space those out to only 324mm. The adapters shown look like all the usual ones that are used to put the R33 (296mm rotor) calipers onto 324mm rotors. And following from that, the 290mm rotors listed above would have to 296mm rotors, as there are no 290mm rotors for Skylines.

Yuh, if it was a factory ECU I would have said TPS adjustment 100%. Because it's aftermarket ECU, there is nothing stopping you/the tuner from adjusting it either in the ECU or in the engine bay. In other words, the tuner shouldn't be having any trouble with the new TPS if he set it up as he installed it, like he should have.

If it's bent, it'll be the subframe. Usually they get modified by kerbs. Otherwise, I echo the suggestion to use Hardrace rubber bushed adjustables. They do solids as well, so if that's what you find, keep looking.

Um . No. Just no. Neo DET head has about 51cc chamber volume. Vanilla has about 62 or something similar. Jam a Neo head onto a vanilla bottom end and the compression ratio goes through the roof. This is a known fact. Neo pistons have much lower crown height because the chamber is flatter because that's one of he big changes made to make the Neo heads (on various engines). It was about reducing the surface area of metal facing the combustion event.

Um...that's exactly what I meant. but when people are talking about swapping a head on to obtain some perceived advantage, it is almost always the case that they are talking about putting it onto their existing block, including the pistons. So I was 100% correct.

And the next point is that you shouldn't put a Neo head on a vanilla block without considering the effect of 15% less volume in the combustion chamber. Alright if you plan on using E85 only.

Get the R32 GTR workshop manual off the 'net. Full wring diagrams for GTR and GTS4 in there (RB20). Will help you with wire colours at plugs. But that looks close to a write off! Ick!

There's no differences in any of the vanilla RB25DET heads.

Wait wait wait. You said, and I quote "after that the clutch stopped engaging". Do you really mean "it stopped disengaging?" As in.....it no longer releases. Because if you did, you know that's the exact opposite don't you? It also changes what the possible causes are.

The logic is actually fairly simple. Taller diff gears put more load on the engine, so you will get more boost in lower gears with a taller diff. This is good. And in the 1980s, people like Corky Bell were telling people to make use of the extra torque available from adding a turbo to their NA car by using higher rear gears. But between any two turbo cars that are identical except for the diff gears, the car with the shorter diff will accelerate faster in any given gearbox ratio than the one with taller gears. It's dead simple maths there. The difference can swing the other way when specific road/track conditions are brought into consideration. If you can save a gear change on a straight by using taller gears then the poofteenth of a second saved going up and down a gear might make the lap faster. Same on the strip. Save a change at 95% of the run and maybe go faster. I am of the opinion that my car (an R32 with 4.11 diff and a Neo) would probably be a nicer street car with 3.7 diff gears. 1st gear is really very short right now. On a launch you really want to short shift it because it's just going to break traction anyway. 2nd gear not much better. So if I had a taller rear in it I might get a slightly softer launch that retains traction and lets me run to higher revs (and consequently much higher road speed) in each of 1st and 2nd, making the car actually faster to reach any given road speed.

It broke. Take it to a mechanic.

That is not good. Transfer case doing horrible things.

25HP of N2O injected from 2000rpm onwards.

Super charger. /thread.

Do a 5s google search for R32 hinges and look at all the threads that turn up just from sau.com.au. Astonishing.

So it's a dumb canister with a check valve. Sounds impossible to make a substitute.

Do you know the meaning of the word radius?