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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    Take it to a mechanic who has a decent scan tool and see what's shaking.
  2. GTSBoy
    ECU will be fine. You might consider that the best way to make 500rwkW will be with E85, in which case you would require larger injectors. Not to mention some serious fuel pump + wiring. A single Walbro 400 will be teetering on the edge on 98, let alone on pineapple juice. Poncams are shit. Think about getting something with more lift. While on the topic, seriously think about a decent port job. That's free power right there. GT35R. Um. How about something with a T4 flange and a Borg Warner badge? Top mount manifold, big external gate, big dump pipe and at least a MAC valve required for boost control here. You will probably run out of spark before you get there. So budget for an ignition upgrade too. At least some new stockers/Splitfires, but better option would be a pencil coil of some sort (Yaris/Celica/Audi/R35GTR, etc).
  3. GTSBoy
    Can't fit Nistune != good car :p
  4. GTSBoy
    Oh, in that case, just throw a match in it and claim it on insurance.
  5. GTSBoy
    Given that it is illegal to modify plates at all, you might want to consider your options. Even bending the ends forward to make a normal slimline fit in the gap in the front bumper is a no-no. I have my front one bent, and the guy at Regency came close to demanding that I straighten it on site before he would let me drive the car away - instead making me promise to straighten it (and hence find a mounting solution that would allow it to be straight without rubbing off the paint!) at home. Granted, I then broke my promise and it is still like it.....but that's me not planning on getting pulled over by a really shitty cop. I think that the alternative to the slimline plates, where the plate is double height, but not as wide, actually makes more sense on R3x Skylines for the rear. That's over the choice of normal or slimline. The Jap plate holder is intended to take a tall plate. There's not really a good solution for the front. Placing a standoff behind the plate so that the outer ends can sit in front of the bumper past the ends of the recess is about the only legal approach. Bending and cutting are not acceptable.
  6. GTSBoy
    Well, yes, he clearly (to us) means the pulsation dampener.
  7. GTSBoy
    What does the eFlexFuel box do? What is its purpose? Reason I ask is, it wouldn't be a necessary item to run e85 via a Nistuned factory ECU. If it is some sort of interceptor to artificially boost injector pulse widths to make them work on e85, then I would suggest not using is, or the kit. Just do the job properly. New injectors, big pump, Nistuned ECU.
  8. GTSBoy
    It will work on the Stag if you Nistune the ECU with the appropriate feature pack. But let me ask you something. What do you mean by "flex fuel kit"?
  9. GTSBoy
    This makes me grumpy. That's a wonderful example. The only problems are it being an early car rather than a late one, and my wife would kill me if I brought it home.
  10. GTSBoy
    Must not swear at the OP. Must not swear at the OP. Must not swear at the OP. Must not f**king swear at the OP. Must not f**king swear at the dipshit OP. Must not f**king swear at the dipshit f**king OP.
  11. GTSBoy
    What's 100nm in real pressure units? You have given units of torque. Pressure is measured in Pascals or multiples thereof (like kPa, MPa, etc) or in psi for knuckle dragging 'Muricans. Or in N/mm2 (equivalent to MPa) or in bullshit units involving the heights of columns of fluid such as water or mercury.
  12. GTSBoy
    Not quite. It's supposed to be 65mm body (same as normal RB26) but with flow vs. voltage curve that is same as Z32. So the internals aren't "the same as" Z32, because that wouldn't work. But the combo of the small body and the sensor calibration makes them "look like" a Z32 to an ECU.
  13. GTSBoy
    That will cause the poor consumption, but it shouldn't cause any of the other effects.
  14. GTSBoy
    Yuh. So long as the pulse width and spark can be controlled, there's no reason to not use Nistune. By the way, that "so long as" condition is entirely rhetorical. Of course it can. The limitations starts to come down to things like the CAS, more than the ECU or even the AFMs. You can upgrade the AFMs easily enough. But you can't use a better crank trigger against the Nistune. It would be good for Matt to make a feature pack that allows the ECU to use simpler and more robust trigger patterns though.
  15. GTSBoy
    There are anywhere up to 5 CUs in the car that will give you codes. Absence of the engine light on the dashboard just means that the ECU is not upset. The TCU (which happens to be inside the ECU , but is still a separately addressable CU on the car's bus), the ABS, TCS and HICAS CUs are all also on the bus and can give you fault codes. Given that your problem appears to be trans related, it would appear wise to interrogate the trans computer, wouldn't it? Advice stands. Your O2 sensor is now f**ked, by the way.
  16. GTSBoy
    I'd say your first thing to do would be to take it to a mechanic who has a decent scan tool and find out what the codes are and mean. I would be concerned that you thought that you could or should "clean" the O2 sensor. I wonder how you would do such a thing. My very first thought was that your idle air valve is sticky or borked in some way. How did you clean it? Total disassemble and clean with throttle body cleaner? Or a quick spray and pray? Did you adjust the TPS back to the absolute correct position when the new one went on? It should read ~0.45v at closed throttle.
  17. GTSBoy
    Disconnected the wrong TPS!
  18. GTSBoy
    Measure the ID of the barrel section and work out how much caliper radial height you can have over various sized rotors. I think you'll find that it won't be a lot more than 330mm rotors before you run out of clearance. The inside of my RPF1s are 380mm near the spokes and 390mm closer to the far inside edge. Someone put 330mm D2s into the same wheel and had ~10mm of radial clearance.
  19. GTSBoy
    Yeah, look better. I think it's just too bulky on the leading edges. You need/want the bulk where the widebody has to be wide, but where it interfaces with the existing panels, I think it will look better with less thickness. I dunno, I might be wrong, looking at the pictures might be different to seeing the real thing, and especially when the real thing will be painted the same colour as the car and not gack clay - it's just my impression.
  20. GTSBoy
    Cool. I think the final plastic version will want to have less thickness at the front of the front guard and also at the front of the rear (just behind the door). I see what you're trying to do, but I think it will be better without the bulk.
  21. GTSBoy
    Get the R32 one rebuilt. Much more likely to last years instead of months.
  22. GTSBoy
    Whilst I'm tempted to agree with Ben, do not, under any circumstances, open up an engine that appears to be perfectly fine and let all the Nissan out. Things will start to go wrong, and it will be because you let all the Nissan out of it. The most you should do is consider a 1 by 1 replacement of the head studs with some good ARP numbers.
  23. GTSBoy
    ermergerd!
  24. GTSBoy
    Would be the same as on an RB25Neo. Overboost protection. ECU sees too big a number and chops the fun off.
  25. GTSBoy
    Nobody buys Bose audio equipment (except for noise cancelling headphones, where they are still the boss). The rest of their stuff is yucky.
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