GTSBoy

The R33 GTR is an excellent car, but is already on its way to being a big, heavy boat. The Stageas are far more like ocean liners. They are long and heavy. They are dull and slow compared to Skylines with the same driveline. The Autech 260RS is the best of them, but it is no GTR. Both can be mechanical heartbreakers. They are getting quite old and have a lot of gear in them that costs $$ to fix. Both need to be modified on top of what they offer stock to be considered fast these days. And then you open up a huge can of worms with needing to upgrade the ATESSA transfer case, fitting front diff upgrades, pissing off the twin turbos (and therefore replacing the entire hot side of the engine). I'm just saying you need X thousand $$ to buy, another X thousand to make sure it's good and can easily spend another X thousand on mods. Would I have an R33 GTR? No, not if I could get a good R32 or an R34. The R33 is a big ugly whale compared to the others. But if someone forced me to have one instead of a 32 or 33, I wouldn't be that unhappy. Would I have a Stagea? No. Not on your nelly. Not unless I was in need of a big ugly wagon. To much fuel consumption, expensive maintenance and all the other things that come with Skyline ownership without enough of the benefits of Skyline ownership (being able to really enjoy driving the car fast in the hills). Does that extend to a 260RS? I think so. I think the fact that it is a GTR underneath that massive body just makes it worse. You live in the land of fast Audi/BMW/Merc wagons. I dislike most Euro cars and would take an Audi V8 wagon over a 260RS in a second. There's no need to be different (rare) when it's not better.

Anything you need a MAP signal for, goes on one of the 4.

Hah! I found myself driving the wrong way down Jeffcott St in North Adelaide on the weekend. Pulled out of the swimming centre carpark with no other traffic on the road to key me into a RHD world. Approaching the traffic lights from the wrong side, wondering how I was going to do a right turn into what I knew was the left turn lane on Park Terrace. And I've been in Australia continuously for the last 2 months. It's amazing how fried your brain can become from switching side of the road so often!

It's a nice dream, but you can probably forget about the idea of a sub 80k km car. These are unicorns. If you can find one it will be indecently expensive. I have no other specific advice for you. It's going to come down to what cars you find for sale and how much value you and the seller put on the conflicting benefits of originality vs. modifications to fix all the stock problems (oil pump drive, front suspension, ATESSA system age problems, old electrics, shitty HICAS, etc etc).

Auto trannies are the devil's work. There are imps and pixies inside that determine if it's going to work or not. But if there's a possibility of the wrong fluid having been used, then the likely culprits for your problems extend from worn friction material on the clutches to blocked or stuck solenoids and other parts of the valve body. Best bet is to remove the transmission and put it in the scrap alloy bin. Park the car up until you're ready to put the manual in it and don't waste your time trying to fix something that never should have been in the car in the first place.

I wouldn't take an R32 GTR out into Seattle traffic. My impressions from driving there are that the locals can only drive when it's overcast and dry. If, It rains, they crash. It snows, they crash. It ices, they crash. The sun comes out, they crash. Must be because it's such a rare event and it startles them. Factor in the large number of Jeeps and other weapons of mass destruction and I'd be garaging the car at the base of the mountain and never taking it out on metro streets!

It's not valve float. Either exhaust flow or timing.

I'd guess that a GTR in Anchorage would be a summer car anyway.

I also hear nothing. I would not run a 5W oil in any engine that old. But......keep in mind that we're talking about multi-grade oils here, which is why the post by Rusty Nuts above needs some tweaking. At engine operating temperature (say 90°C in the oil) the winter rating on the oil (the 5, or 10 or 20) is not important. Only the larger number matters. And any 2 40 grade oils will be very similar in viscosity at the same temperature. And if you look very closely, there's very little difference between a 40 and a 50 at operating temperature either. There's enough that OEMs will look to use thinner oils to try to improve their fuel efficiency numbers, and in fact that is really the only drive to 5W and 0W oils, so that the startup lubrication is faster and heats up quicker. It's all about emissions. An older motor that has some slop in it is not going to like really light weight oils at startup because they won't necessarily offer the pressure required to keep the bearings unstuck and you can damage your motor a little every time you start it cold.

I wouldn't count on your HICAS working afterwards. This shouldn't be a problem if you've already killed it, but if it is "working" now, it certainly won't afterwards.

Almost certainly not. And why would you want an airbag anyway? Miserable idea.

Do you know how to test for continuity? If so, starting looking for for where the circuit is broken. The pixies can't jump over very big gaps in the wiring.

OP6 exhaust housing with 45V1 comp housing sounds like a VG30.

First up, it is simply not permitted to change anything to do with airbags. You can't swap to a different airbag wheel, probably even if it was from the same model of car (just a different trim package for example). You would have to get an engineering certificate from a registered automotive engineer, at minimum, would be my guess, if you were to try it. Especially if you're talking about swapping to later cars' wheels. I would expect that you couldn't even consider swapping to later (like R34) wheels because I'm pretty sure that the HICAS steering position sensor drive is not compatible. Not that that should be an obstacle, because anyone still with an active HICAS system on board should be kicked in the arse and shown how to defeat it, because it is pure shit. Having said that, it's an R32 GTR. If it's an import, and if you chose to remove the bag wheel and replace it with a non-bag wheel, then I'm sure that no-one would really be the wiser. You just say "It was imported from Japan with no airbag, like most of the others". And shrug, and smile and bat your eyelids and whatever it takes to make yourself look honest and naive. As to whether the airbag itself is safe.....you'll never know unless you crash it. It will either go off, or it won't. If it doesn't then it's safe. If it does, it will either protect you or it will try to kill you. There's no telling with these really old bags how healthy they are. The problem with the Takata bags is pretty specific to those particular bags. But there are any number of other ways that these things could go bad.

It's all same same (25/26). Exactly as I described above. ECU says "low boost" Solenoid is closed, wastegate actuator sees all the boost. ECU says "high boost", solenoid is open, some of the boost is allowed to leak out, wastegate actuator sees less, engine sees more. The restrictor determines how much boost leaks away when the solenoid is open. In a 26 it is accessible (it's not accessible on the 25) and if you remove it, the bleed gets larger, the actuator sees less, boost goes up. And there is no boost by gear. Like Dose said above, it's rpm dependent. It's just that you notice it in 1st gear more. Oh, and all this stuff has been written on here a bazzillion times before, so use google to search on ANY question you may have, and you will likely find the answers already there.

Correct. Testing must be done and proven clear with required documentation before shipping. It's being done all the time, right now, as we speak.

You could plug it with a rubber or plastic firewall grommet. That's the best I've ever seen done. I don't think there would be a believable "glass" repair, but you could ask a windscreen repairer if there's something they could do.

Nissan OEM boost control is essentially the same as the VCT. 2 position. High and low. On RB25s for example, the turbo's wastegate is good for 5 psi on its own. When the ECU says you can have high boost, it opens the solenoid, creating a little boost leak and you get 7. That's it. A proper EBC is the whole enchilada. And obviously it will improve things. You have have more boost in 1st gear (when the ECU otherwise says no), you can ramp the boost up faster and you can wind the total boost up to more than 7 but less than R&R.

Correctness is correct.

f**king really? You really want a step by step Ikea plan laid out for you? How the hell do you think those of us who have managed the swap (including me) managed it without such a thing? Must have been by pre-planning, thinking, application......and plenty of time spent with the wiring diagrams. Oh, by the way, it was 2 years between me doing the conversion and getting the air-con working. So, you know, good luck with that.

It's pretty easy. Ignoring the conflicting images.....the hose that comes from the pressure delivery from the engine, has to pass through the filter in the right direction, then either back to the engine or through the thermostat. Only one of the engine side connections is connected to the centre of the oil filter mount.

Well, putting the grey mush in my head to work, I cannot see how the 200ms that it would take to purge the air out of an oil gallery feeding the head when the oil pressure behind it starts to rise is going to make any difference at all to how much wear the head sees on start up. I don't know if you've ever looked under a cam cover with the engine off.....but there's lots of oil sitting up there. Check valves are a 0.0001% thing.

Lol check valve. Air flows about 1000x faster than oil.

Recommendations on what to do next depend on how much money you have and whether you want to go fast in a straight line or do other things safely. Because you already have injectors and a fuel pump, following the above advice from admS15 is a good idea. You will need to upgrade the airflow meter first though. The first best thing is sticky tyres. AD08R, RS3 or 4, KU36, or any of a bunch of others. Everything else depends on the state of health of suspension and subframe bushes and so on. You can spend 2x what the car is worth in about 15 minutes if you really want to.

Nothing in that list is going to cause a power increase unless the Neo turbo is going on to an older 25 or onto a 20. On a 25, the power added will be small. On a 20, it will be good for a bit more. My Neo, with essentially that complete list above (except the things that are useless, like the plenum and the big injectors) makes 191 believable rwkW on 12 psi.