GTSBoy

Um....you can hardly blame Nistune for an R32 or Z32 ECU not necessarily wanting to work with an R33 TCU. Nistuned auto ECUs usually work fine in the parent car.

No. Literally the most sensible advice is to start the engine, let it run long enough to put the club lock behind your seat/fold up the sun screen/fasten your belt/look over your shoulder and then just drive away. It is what you do from that point on that matters. You don't rev it hard or load it up until it has some heat in it. You don't rev it really hard or give it lots of load until it is pretty much all the way up to normal temperature. So, in the context of how long that is in a Skyline, from cold, you drive it gently for the first few minutes, but you can use a bit of gas to get it onto the highway and you won't be leaning on it until you've been driving for at least 5-10 minutes. Letting a cold car idle for ages is not sensible. I let mine idle for a bit because I need to start it to get it out of its hole and put bags, etc in it, but it is only for a couple of minutes and it is still cold enough that I don't lean on it until I am well out onto the main road, a few km away.

No. See the chassis rail? That's the stiffmaker. Make it stiffer, add crossbraces from side to side. Car will still twist when you jack one wheel unless you put a cage in it.

32 GTR seats will fit. But they do not belong in an R33. If they are in good condition, you should sell them to me and I will put them in a deserving R32.

This is one area where I can only say, I simply cannot imagine why they wouldn't. The fronts are a certainty. The rears.....the only reason that R33 don't fit R32, for example, is that the car is a different shape. There's no reason for Nissan to change the miserable way that the seats are held down between S1 & S2.

Well......as if none of these thoughts and questions have ever been posted on here and replied to before.

Did you not stop to think that if you earth the switch and the AC switches on, and you replace the switch but it still won't switch on, that perhaps the switch is doing what it is supposed to do and preventing the compressor from starting when the gas pressure is too low because half of it has fallen out?

Try running it on Aerostart.

This. So much this. I read the thread before anyone else replied, shook my head and closed it again. Basically the real answer is this. If you have such high ignorance of what might be needed doing on the car to handle 1000HP.....it's probably best not to do a 25/30 and not to aim for 1000HP. Just don't.

What options are you looking for? It would seem that the correct thing to do would be to inspect it, or get it inspected, then get whatever machining is needed to clean it up, throw some new bearings at it, along with whatever other jewellery you can afford to put inside the block, close it up and boost off into the sunset again.

I'm pretty sure that's the internal temp sensor for the climate control. Sucks air in through the front. It is wired up as per what you'd expect.

plugs?

There are specific clear plastic products exactly for this. The same film you see on new cars in spots likely to cop stones, like just in front of the rear wheel arches, trailing edge of back door, etc. They're still a compromise. The car looks different/wrong with it spread all across the front.

It will bolt to gearbag and mounts. It will destroy the gearbag if you use any of the turbo's extra performance. There are many electrical differences. Best bet is to take the whole engine/ECU loom and be prepared for annoying differences in the peripheral electrical connections (like maybe the alternator wiring, air-con, etc).

Build what you have. Neo head is solid lifter. You will need new valves and possibly need guides for those that were bent. Impossible to say for sure. Trust the head shop. if you want to go crazy on the build, go crazy. But otherwise a light duty build using stockish parts is not going to be horrifying. Again, it's impossible to say whether the pistons will go back in the holes with little work needed or if you should just replace them. Trust the engine guy. The stock rods are RB26 rods - they're pretty good for stock rods. You will definitely want to look at sorting out the oil pump drive, bearings throughout, etc.

Check fuel pressure. Under load. Also just maybe an outside chance that the ECU's water temperature sender is not right....or even the thermostat is stuffed and it's too cold. Check that too if needed.

There is almost no such thing as warped rotors. Almost 100% of "warped rotors" is actually just unevenly distributed pad material stuck onto the disc, usually caused by females driving like they do (do 120km/h up until 5m from a red traffic light then throw out the anchors at the last instant, braking like Nigel Mansell, then sit at the lights with the pedal firmly holding the pads onto the rotors), or males driving like females. Just get them skimmed on the car, re-bed the brakes and drive them sensibly and see if they behave themselves until the natural end of their life. As to the suspension, the days of anyone taking a recommendation for BCs seriously are (thankfully) loooooooooooong gone. I would choose the Bilstein option, or, if coilovers are your thing, talk to MCA about what suits the best.

Hmm. By contrast, the V720s I just put on replaced RE003. The Bridgeys did 16000 of the most boring and uninspiring kilometers I have ever driven. Lower levels of lateral and longitudinal grip than just about every tyre I have had in the last 15 years.

Yeah, they're good. I couldn't get them when I wanted them a couple of weeks ago, so chose to try Kumho V720. Also very good. Better than the KU36 that they pretty much replace, and at a good price. We are spolit for choice on such tyres these days.

There is no such thing as detonation at idle. That is mechanical shit banging into other mechanical shit.

NissDataScan has been around for a long time and is the best thing for hooking up to Consult ECUs (other than proper scan tools & Consult handsets). I've never paid much attention to it, because I have a Nistune'd ECU (which I will get to later), so I don't know if it has any active test capability. I would hazard a guess that it does not have any active capability, because that's a brave step to take for a 3rd party developer. Reverse engineering the data stream coming out of an ECU is one thing, and non-destructive, but attempting to inject commands to make the ECU do things is a whole 'nother level of risk. I'm pretty sure that even the pro-grade scan tools like my bro-in-law's Snap-On device don't do much in the way of active tests. They just read signals and reset DTCs. If you put a Nistune board into an OEM ECU, then it provides you with all the diagnostics you could ever want, including some active test stuff, like stopping a single injector.

I wish I had put a VQ into my R32 instead of a 25Neo. Love the RB....but the VQ is bigger & newer and makes more chooch.

http://www.zombo.com/

I just told you that the DMM won't see that signal.

It's a boehm!