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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    I'm pretty sure that's the internal temp sensor for the climate control. Sucks air in through the front. It is wired up as per what you'd expect.
  2. GTSBoy
    plugs?
  3. GTSBoy
    There are specific clear plastic products exactly for this. The same film you see on new cars in spots likely to cop stones, like just in front of the rear wheel arches, trailing edge of back door, etc. They're still a compromise. The car looks different/wrong with it spread all across the front.
  4. GTSBoy
    It will bolt to gearbag and mounts. It will destroy the gearbag if you use any of the turbo's extra performance. There are many electrical differences. Best bet is to take the whole engine/ECU loom and be prepared for annoying differences in the peripheral electrical connections (like maybe the alternator wiring, air-con, etc).
  5. GTSBoy
    Build what you have. Neo head is solid lifter. You will need new valves and possibly need guides for those that were bent. Impossible to say for sure. Trust the head shop. if you want to go crazy on the build, go crazy. But otherwise a light duty build using stockish parts is not going to be horrifying. Again, it's impossible to say whether the pistons will go back in the holes with little work needed or if you should just replace them. Trust the engine guy. The stock rods are RB26 rods - they're pretty good for stock rods. You will definitely want to look at sorting out the oil pump drive, bearings throughout, etc.
  6. GTSBoy
    Check fuel pressure. Under load. Also just maybe an outside chance that the ECU's water temperature sender is not right....or even the thermostat is stuffed and it's too cold. Check that too if needed.
  7. GTSBoy
    There is almost no such thing as warped rotors. Almost 100% of "warped rotors" is actually just unevenly distributed pad material stuck onto the disc, usually caused by females driving like they do (do 120km/h up until 5m from a red traffic light then throw out the anchors at the last instant, braking like Nigel Mansell, then sit at the lights with the pedal firmly holding the pads onto the rotors), or males driving like females. Just get them skimmed on the car, re-bed the brakes and drive them sensibly and see if they behave themselves until the natural end of their life. As to the suspension, the days of anyone taking a recommendation for BCs seriously are (thankfully) loooooooooooong gone. I would choose the Bilstein option, or, if coilovers are your thing, talk to MCA about what suits the best.
  8. GTSBoy
    Hmm. By contrast, the V720s I just put on replaced RE003. The Bridgeys did 16000 of the most boring and uninspiring kilometers I have ever driven. Lower levels of lateral and longitudinal grip than just about every tyre I have had in the last 15 years.
  9. GTSBoy
    Yeah, they're good. I couldn't get them when I wanted them a couple of weeks ago, so chose to try Kumho V720. Also very good. Better than the KU36 that they pretty much replace, and at a good price. We are spolit for choice on such tyres these days.
  10. GTSBoy
    There is no such thing as detonation at idle. That is mechanical shit banging into other mechanical shit.
  11. GTSBoy
    NissDataScan has been around for a long time and is the best thing for hooking up to Consult ECUs (other than proper scan tools & Consult handsets). I've never paid much attention to it, because I have a Nistune'd ECU (which I will get to later), so I don't know if it has any active test capability. I would hazard a guess that it does not have any active capability, because that's a brave step to take for a 3rd party developer. Reverse engineering the data stream coming out of an ECU is one thing, and non-destructive, but attempting to inject commands to make the ECU do things is a whole 'nother level of risk. I'm pretty sure that even the pro-grade scan tools like my bro-in-law's Snap-On device don't do much in the way of active tests. They just read signals and reset DTCs. If you put a Nistune board into an OEM ECU, then it provides you with all the diagnostics you could ever want, including some active test stuff, like stopping a single injector.
  12. GTSBoy
    I wish I had put a VQ into my R32 instead of a 25Neo. Love the RB....but the VQ is bigger & newer and makes more chooch.
  13. GTSBoy
    http://www.zombo.com/
  14. GTSBoy
    I just told you that the DMM won't see that signal.
  15. GTSBoy
    It's a boehm!
  16. GTSBoy
    O2 sensors get old and slow. The heaters also stop working and they don't then work when cold (ie at idle).
  17. GTSBoy
    I've done essentially the same as steppa, with the same result.
  18. GTSBoy
    3.5L > 2.6 L. More sense would be to swap in VQ37HR + boost.
  19. GTSBoy
    Shafts are piss easy. Fall out from the inside. Hubs/splines are obviously much more trouble. You need to dismantle all this to find out what is wrong with it before you go buying stuff though.
  20. GTSBoy
    Could be. The splines on the end of the shaft or in the hub are also possible. Just about all of that stuff is getting sloppy in these old jallopies now.
  21. GTSBoy
    ^ This.
  22. GTSBoy
    Go right ahead. I'm fairly confident I could outrun one on foot across an intersection.
  23. GTSBoy
    Changing plugs/gaps will not affect tune. Stumble on idle is usually a vacuum leak.
  24. GTSBoy
    No. A 1957 VW beetle would be faster.
  25. GTSBoy
    It seems like most of your cylinders are OK and a couple are little softer. There's a million things that could cause those differences.
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