GTSBoy

Look, if the engine is just stopping, then either it has a mechanical problem / vacuum leak / fuel supply issue etc etc, OR it is simply losing electrical power to something vital. These vital things include the coils, for example, and the ECU. The Nissan engine management system is known by their abbreviation ECCS. The ECCS relay is the relay that provides power to the ECU. Its operation is a little complicated, but the overall view is that when you want the engine to be running the ECCS relay needs to be powered up. Like all relays, they can get flaky. When they do, they can drop power to the ECU, which tends to have sudden consequences. You can find the relay near the ECU. If you don't know what you're doing, you shouldn't stuff around down there, because you can make things worse. If you had put the words "ECCS relay" into google, you would have found all the thousands of words that have been written on here across the last 25 years, in which you will find much wisdom. The O2 sensor and the TPS are not likely to be responsible for your stoppages. The CAS might. The fuel pump might, just. A broken wire in a loom definitely could.

Oh, for god's sake. It's not the charging system. If the engine is stopping, the charge light will come on because the engine has stopped!

It's not the battery. There is no battery light. That's the "ignition on but no roundy roundy happening light". If it's electrical, it will be the ECCS relay. If it is engine temperature related, it will be the idle control/cold start stuff not working properly.

There are 2 MAP sensors. The one for the gauge has nothing to do with the ECU. The other MAP sensor (what the ECU is calling the boost sensor) is used by the ECU to tell when you have boost and to ensure that you do not have too much boost. So, the fault code can either be because the sensor has died or become disconnected, or it can be because you have increased the boost too much and the ECU knows what you did last summer. If you have wound the boost up that far on the stock ECU, then it will be no faster than it would be at lower boost, because the ECU will have dropped in all the fuel and taken out all the timing.

Yuh, the refrigerant pressure switch will prevent the compressor from pulling in to prevent you operating an empty compressor. Other things that can stop the air con include that even the fan circuit could be dead (fuse maybe) and if the fan won't run then you don't get a permissive to run the compressor (so you don't ice up the evaporator). There's a bunch of things. If you aren't good with cars, check the fuses, follow the advice above, then take it to an air-con guy if you can't see something simple holding it out.

There's a million things that could be wrong. Start by assessing whether there is even power to the back of the air-con computer. Progress to seeing if there is enough gas in the system to satisfy the pressure switch. You will almost certainly need to take it to an air-con mechanic at that point.

There's no fitment difference. You can expect the turbo clutches (the original factory ones) to probably have a higher torque rating than the NA clutches. By the same token, the aftermarket probably doesn't bother making weaker clutches for NAs anyway. So they probably, literally, are all the same.

I can't promise you that the brackets are the same. Hell, even the hydraulic lines in and out are not going to be the same. This is not necessarily a bolt-off bolt-back-on affair. You may have to be prepared to do some work.

Clutches are the same. (for example, I have the had same clutch between RB20 and RB20 box, RB20 and RB25 box, RB25 and RB25 box). Just get a decent street clutch for either engine/gearbox name and you will be fine. Just don't get one for an R34 (pull instead of push).

Look up Project Unicorn on Mighty Car Mods (or it might have been running on their mcmtv2 channel). They did VK41 + turbo into Stagea. So same same basically. Shows you what you will need to do. Beyond that. I echo the sentiments above. The VK56 is not an inherently super dooper strong engine. The RBs were fairly over-engineered, but the VKs are much later designs where a lot of overdone speccing was cut out. Then there is 30 years of dev work in even more over-engineered upgrades for RBs that is missing from VKs. Sure, the bulk torque from a larger engine would be nice to have, but you can have as much power as you need to make it impossible to drive with a 3L anyway.

Yes, any pump from an R33 onwards RB is single stage only. There were also R32s without HICAS, although even though HICAS sucks balls, the cars that didn't have it sucked so much that no one cares that they were all crushed a million years ago.

ECU is not the place to look for error codes relating to ABS/TCS. There's only a handful of codes in the ECU relating to ABS/TCS and most of these are just "Oh, f**k, the other computer isn't there!" Take it to a mechanic who has a proper diagnostic machine and interrogate the TCS CU directly.

Om nom nom. 182 pages of been there done that.

Actually, you can take it as gospel that old vehicle electronics systems are aging and dying. The HICAS CUs on R32s are dying. Dud capacitors usually, although there was a batch that got loose screws running around inside that caused shorting and smoke release. The ATESSA boxes are pretty much the same level of thing. The pressure switches and various other electronic components in the ATESSA circuits are famous for dying, at least in the last 10 years or so, as they get old. As to the heights of mounting points in 2WD/AWD Skyline chassis......yes, at least for the R32s they are different. It's just not possible to unbolt one and offer up the other. Needs significant rework. I think that R33s can handle a crossmember swap. So ultimately you may be best off considering removing the front chassis rails from the S13 and seeing about sticking in a complete R33 front - rails, inner guards, crossmember. Then deal with the problem of stitching the outer guards and rad support etc over that mess later.

I think the easiest way to think about it is......you cannot fit a big enough intercooler into the front of a car to reach the point where you would say it is "too big".

There's a couple of points worth making here. R32 RWD and AWD front ends are not the same. The crossmembers are different, where they attach to the chassis rails is different. This is because of those pesky driveshafts that don't exist on the RWD cars. The location of the upper arm mounting points in the towers should be the same in both RWD and AWD R32s. But that shouldn't matter, because no-one in their right mind would choose to use R32 front suspension in any car. Everyone with an R32 would much prefer to have R33/4 front upper control arms, because the R32 ones suck. So now you're looking to graft R33 inner guards into an S13. Theoretically possible, sure. But a lot of work. Will have to be DEAD straight to noto cause you stupid suspension geometry/wheel alignment issues. That's a lot of very detailed body building work. If you're OK with that, then fine. When it comes to "stock" ATESSA system performance....yeah, it's pretty good. But anyone who ever had a GTR realised that the system could be a lot better. People mod the transfer cases, they use aftermarket controllers, all because the R32 ATESSA system is pretty slow and not the best possible use of the underlying tech. Hell, even Nissan sped it up and improved the logic through the R33 and R34, plus their various hot versions. I think you'd be better off using an aftermarket controller straight up. No questions. For one thing, the old ATESSA controller boxes are all many years old and are just waiting to die of electronics old age anyway. Ever seen a box of 90s electronics full of shat out capacitor guts? I think you could make an S13 swallow all the gear you need to make it a mini GTR. I think it would be over capitalising in a car of essentially zero value to a massive extent. Like Project Binky but without the cool video series to go with it. If it's just for your entertainment, then go ahead.

There's a whole thread dedicated to these questions.

What is an analogue speed sensor wire? There's no such thing. All digital pulsy pulsy.

It appears that the Splitfire DIS5 that suit Neo RB25s are also claimed to be correct for R34 RB26s. https://www.rhdjapan.com/splitfire-super-direct-di-ignition-system-bnr34-r33-c34-y33-wgnc34-wgn34.html That would make more sense than Nissan just sticking with the shitty old coils they used on the 32 & 33 GTRs, which were the same as the RB20s.

I may have to do a quick back-pedal here. I was allowing what I know to be true for the differences between R32 (RB20) and R34 (RB25Neo) coils to pollute my thinking on the RB26 coils. I put my hand up and declare that I do not know for sure what the situation is with R34 26 coils/igniters. But if there is no change (ie, they still use an external igniter) then, no, you can't throw the igniter away. If they did switch to internal igniters, then my first post is correct.

Um.......genuine seal kit you linked is only $55. Why haven't you bought it already?

Yes, you can change from dumb coils that need the ignitor box to coils that each have an ignitor built in. You will obviously need the appropriate harness, and you will still have to adapt it to the R32 harness, because the power and the triggering wiring are all based around the ignitor. The new coilpack harness will not simply connect to the old body-side ignition harness and just work.

R34 auto's TCU is in the ECU. The likelihood of being able to run it (given that it's got tiptronic functions) with the R33 separate TCU is pretty slim. Might be doable, but not likely with a satisfying result. Using the R34 ECU to tun the R33 engine and transmission should actually be easier. You'd have to put a Nistune into it, so you can rub out all the error codes that will pop up from not having the traction control and boost sensor and such. And you'd have to do a little re-wiring of the odd sensor here and there. And the air-con might give you a bit of extra work (or it might not). Basically, it is not simple. It's a full on project in its own right.

Fault codes are the result. Tried seeing if the button even works? It's a momentary switch. So just pull it out and briefly short the wires with a bridge. See what happens. Failing that, try it at the TCU on the appropriate pins.

Valve stem seals or turbo seals. Hard to tell the difference.