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Got my 33 4 door for sale as I bought something more practical and economical. Has about 3 months rego left. stock standard other than turbo back exhaust, front mount (painted black), coilovers and 18in rims(great fitment), amp and twin subs in the boot, boost guage. The good: A/C regassed and pressure tested 2months ago so nice and cold. Stock interior, very clean for its age, no cracks in dash Working sunroof All electrics working Good tyres The bad: bodykit has small cracks on front bumber could use a wheel alignment exhaust quite loud (i like it though) Has custom plates that WILL NOT come with the car. Overall great car, been my daily for a while and never had any issues. Call or text for more info. I work 8 to 4 so only sms during those hours. No Swaps! No emails, no lowballers (you will be told were to go) Car is in Perth, WA 041655seven82one link for pics: http://www.gumtree.com.au/m-my-ad.html?adId=1018941808 Im not on here very often so easier to text or call.

A/c not getting cold? ill come to you, fully licensed. PM for pricing

Hey guys got a 1997 c34 series one Stagea, A/C randomly stopped working, the a/c pump wont engage, tested the clutch its all good. Thought it was the pressure sensor due to the fact that if you earth it out it the a/c clutch engages but no go there fitted a new one genuine one and still nothing. Was wondering does anyone have a wire diagram for C34 series one auto climate control to see if the ecu or the control unit it sending out earth. Thanks

When I first purchased my Oct 1991 R32 GT-R's air conditioner was great. Although now it's blowing fuse # 10 (10 amp). As soon as I turn on the A/C, it blows the fuse. I followed the steps for self-diagnosis without any error messages found. Here is the fuse that is blowing: The major load on that fuse is the magnetic clutch for the compressor... Any idea if I can simply replace the magnetic clutch? I can't seem to find one anywhere (I'm in the U.S.). Or, does the whole compressor need replacing?

R34 GTT climate control So the problem is that the buttons on the Climate control unit for my R34 doesn't respond when the clock that tells the time starts to spaz out. for example the minutes will go from 0:00 to 0:59 and will repeat. during the time of this malfunction I can not use any of the button on the Climate Control Unit. - I have recently put in LED's in the unit. I have gotten another unit from my other r34 and it works then the problem comes back with the clock, and no response from the buttons anyone have any idea?

hello all, i have removed my a/c compressor from my rb20 and it weighs a tone, heaviest ive felt in fact, so i was wondering, seeing pictures of the later model engines compressors they seem to go to a small alloy unit. so can anyone tell me the weight difference between them and if get the corrosponding mounting brachet are they all interchangable physical mounting and belt position wise, i know lines will have to change. car is street driven so i want to have a/c working.old compressor dying so if i can get a newer one and save some weight its even better. thanks.

R33 GTS-T Aircon Problems So just in time for a north queensland summer my aircon on my 1997 R33 GTS-T has decided to only blow hot air. Before this it would ONLY blow cold air when set to 18 degrees and turn to full heater when set to 19 or above, i believe this is a problem with the internal temp sensor or the sun load sensor (i ran the diagnostic test on the head unit) and have found the they may just need cleaning. However now there is absolutely no cold air at all and no discernible load put on the engine when the A/C is switched on as it always used to. I found the problem to possibly be that all the gas had leaked out of the compressor side hose, which filled the activation wire with oil/water. Although, as i am a cheap uni student, i was hoping it wasn't in need of a regassing so i decided to check the plug itself and found that even when the A/C signal and relay sensors are on (shown by the consult port from the ecu) the wire running into the compressor was only registering 0.3Volts (which is what it was showing even when off so i assume it is a background noise voltage or something) so im unsure whether it should be a positive voltage or if it should be earthed . I also know that somewhere there will be a low pressure sensor but as i could not see any more wires running to the compressor i assumed this would all be self contained. So my questions are: -Should there be a 12v signal or earth applied to the compressor to engage the clutch -is there any other wires that i have not seen running into the compressor -if i manually send a 12v/earth signal to the compressor will i cause any issues (just to check if the clutch is engaging and the problem is i am just out of gas) and then less importantly -are the internal temp sensors standardised as i can't seem to find a replacement and finally does anyone actually have a sun load sensor (from all i've seen in forums everyone seems to get this error) Thanks in advance Joe

Power FC problems (sr20) Hello guys, I am new to this forum. I am just your average 21 year old dude who bought a Nissan 200sx S13 with a SR20DET and I did some modifications. I assume this is gonna be a long post, but please bear with me. So I started my car after 1.5 years and during those months I bought several parts. (Apexi Power FC Djetro, S15 turbo, 555cc nismo injectors and different things but that wont matter) Anyway, 2 days ago I started her up and it went great, except for getting the car to idle. It just WON'T idle at all. I found out that my injectors had the wrong latency. I did 66% and 0.72ms and it should've been 66% and 0.10ms? So I changed that and after a few resets and start ups it went great. First 10 minutes idle, amazing. 800-900rpm, car not shaking. Then I had to turn on the A/C which I dont have. I thought using the climate control and do some cold air would do the trick. Well I guess not. Car was doing weird things. 480rpm-900rpm over and over, here is a video; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZXVeiSi1y0 I don't know what to do. My map sensor and IAT are working fine. The car was idling fine but I had to complete te self-learning process. My defroster doesn't work either because some cables are missing. (I found some cables so I am gonna try it out tomorrow, it might work) Other things that you guys might find interesting; My O2 sensor stays at 0.0v, even at idle. I found out today that there is a fat O2 sensor in the elbow, and the redtop ECU uses a Skinny O2. (I had a black top ecu, so this is why there is a fat o2 in there. Black top = fat o2 || redtop = skinny o2) Can it be because of this? How much influence does the O2 sensor have when it comes to the self-learning process? Also, the car starts with boost control on. And I don't even have a boost controller. (I turned it off) My mod list: 555cc nismo gt28 turbo Apexi Power FC D-jetro Apexi powerfilter aftermarket IC HKS wastegate Mishimoto rad AEM Wideband (haven't hooked it up yet, I don't know much about this thing. But it was necessarry for tuners?)

Hi Im looking for a a/c unid for my S2 1999 RS Four s Where van u find one I bought one but it s from a S1 and doesnt fit (my bad) Is it possible to make it work on my s2