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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. Um.....it's not lacquer. It's the clear resin that makes it a composite material. It's also smooth, weather resistant and paintable.
  2. No one. Too many other good pads out there.
  3. I built my own, to the same design as the Autospeed one from 20 years ago. In fact, that's when I built it. It was great....for a manual boost controller. Better than your typical "boost tee" which is what you're talking about. I replaced it with a 2nd hand Profec and have never looked back. 10 x better again.
  4. I don't think your sizes will fit. 10" on the rear is essentially impossible on an R32 regardless of offset. (Ignoring spacers, guard modifications, etc). Anything bigger than 8.5" on the front is really pushing it too. I have 17x8" +35 all around. If I could find a workable offset, I could probably get an 8.5 in there without it rubbing on things, but as it stands, there is almost no clearance when the wheels are turned to the plastic liner and various other spots. On the rear, I'm sure I could fit a 9" wheel, maybe even 9.5, again with the ideal offset. Look at the very informative wheel fitment thread in this very forum to see what people have managed and what stupid amounts of camber they may have had to run to squeeze it in!
  5. I was going to try to help, but I couldn't understand what the issue was.
  6. I think the point is that the OP sounded like he already had the kit. It just needed some tek screws, sikaflex and skotch-locks to hang it off the car.
  7. No, ECU does not watch the oil pressure. Could be spark, but could also be fuel - see my point about the injectors. They do get gummy. Sitting for long periods lets the gum harden.
  8. Shouldn't see oil pressure on gauge while cranking. Is the fuel pump priming and stopping like it should when you turn on the ignition? If not, could be dead/seized from inaction. Injectors could also be stuck closed. Does it fire in any way at all, or just cranking with no chugs?
  9. Tacho runs from an ECU output. Check appropriate pin in the ECU plug is in good order (inserted properly, not broken, dirty, etc). Hook oscilloscope up to that pin and see if the ECU output is clean and proper. Try again at tacho end of wiring and see if it's clean there.
  10. Kinda sounds like a head gasket.
  11. Wat? You have already diagnosed it. You have a water leak from your turbo. Take it off and fix it.
  12. It's not dirt that you can really see. Thin layer of grime on the sensing elements will do it.
  13. Anything from the Meguiars level upwards will do the job.
  14. Whodaf*k would put a 225 on a 20" rim?
  15. The pipework for these bleeder systems wants to be as small as will work, because the flow bypasses the main circuit, resulting in less flow where you would prefer it (radiator, engine, whatever is being bypassed).
  16. Look at what Darren does for the money I linked. Think about the value of the new/replacement/aftermarket parts that go into it, vs. what it would cost to renew or recondition original parts (with original parts in the case of renew/replace) - which is going to still be a significant fraction of the upgraded parts. Then consider that almost all the labour still has to be done. It's not possible to do this stuff for less than quite a few thousand unless you are able to do the labour yourself and have access to parts that won't cost you much. As a retail proposition, it's time to sell blood/semen/kidneys/arms/legs for most people.
  17. I didn't say that the TT and the alarm/immobiliser were attached. What I said was that a thief cannot drive a car running on its turbo timer away, if it will stop as soon as he releases the handbrake. The TT accepts a signal from the handbrake wire as an interlock. That's all.
  18. No. Think about it. You leave your car running on the timer. Thiefy smashes a window and jumps in and drives it away. If he has to drop the handbrake to drive it, and dropping the handbrake will stop the engine instantly.....then no drivey.
  19. It's gunna cost lots. This is what it costs to do a minimal upgrade build. A "stock" rebuild will still cost a good fraction of that - at least half.
  20. Anti-theft. Stops the engine as soon as thiefy drops the handbrake.
  21. They do get to the point where they stop letting the air come through though.
  22. The coils fit but it's not the coils doing it.
  23. Of course you should do that. 8:1 is 1980s CR for boost. But you won't get that increase by changing the head. You'll need pistons. 20% increase in capacity means a 20% increase in head flow wouldn't be a bad idea. Easily achieved with sensible porting. 1mm bigger valves gives the perfect opportunity to properly do the seat angles and shape the bowl into the back of the seats. And there goes 5 grand.
  24. A loose wire with a quick connect on it implies not original. So you're guess as good as ours. You have the advantage of being able to follow it back to where it came from and report back on what you find.
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