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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    The caster rods control the fore-aft movement of the front lower control arm. Without them, the lower control arm would be able to move forward and backwards in the wheel well enough to crash into the guard liner, because the bushes at the chassis end of the arm aren't designed to take loads applied in that direction. The stock caster rods are fixed length. No adjusting them. The stock amount of caster in these Nissans is a bit low - only a few degrees. More (positive) caster provides an increase in the amount of dynamic camber (camber that appears in the wheel angle as the wheel is turned in the steering axis). The stock caster rods also feature huge rubber/hydrogooshy bushes that provide a metric shit tonne of slop. These aftermarket caster rods provide the ability to adjust the length to get the amount of caster that you want*. They also usually use rod end joints in place of squishy bushes, thereby completely eradicating any deflection under load. In my experience, this is f**king Excellent (TM), as it drastically improves the behaviour of the front end. * R32s in particular do not like having lots of caster wound into them. You can wind more into R33s because the upper control arm design is superior. The more you wind into an R32 the worse the twisting/binding that occurs in the upper arm and shit starts to get real with them, much worse/faster. Therefore the limit for caster on R32s is probably 6°. I think I'm running ~5.5°, even with tricky upper arms.
  2. GTSBoy
    Nope. Victoria is the only state with a "number of inlet mods is limited to X" rule.
  3. GTSBoy
    The new photos are wrong. Somehow you have hood the boost T up between the wastegate actuator (which is correct) and the vent line back into the turbo inlet (which is VERY wrong). You now have absolutely NO boost control. The loud pop at 4k is when your car is hitting boost cut. The ECU is killing it. The boost T's second side needs to be connected to the nipple on the turbo outlet. That's either on the turbo outlet pipe (to the intercooler) or directly on the compressor housing (there are a couple of options depending on the car - Nissan did it both ways).
  4. GTSBoy
    Valid point. I was only in the engine bay yesterday fiddling with a low beam and remembered that was the case!
  5. GTSBoy
    Likely made in Taiwan, like all the others. They do appear to be at least semi-decent, having boots on the rod ends and overall good finish. He probably took them off because the rod ends are rattly though. Fit them up and find out.
  6. GTSBoy
    It's the stock wiring AT THE PUMP that is the most concern here. Not the wiring that trails off into the car. Put a massive pump into the tank and feed it with the original dental floss wiring through the pump hat? Recipe for voltage drop and wire meltage. Put a pump in there that is bigger than stock (and, of course, big enough to do the job) but not too big for the wiring? Yup, recipe for happiness. If you go massive, you need to do more work.
  7. GTSBoy
    Get rid of any connection involving that T piece! The boost T goes in a single (cut, of course) hose between the boost source and the wastegate actuator. That other T is leading off into the wilderness, and is causing you to have no idea where the boost signal is being lost. Just pull the T connections apart and block everything other than your connections to the boost T.
  8. GTSBoy
    If it's not massively advanced timing (which you may have fixed) then it's either the IACV is filthy and stuck wide open, or you have a generous vacuum leak.
  9. GTSBoy
    Yup, as above....do not hook anything up to the "tee piece". That's going to the stock boost solenoid, which is part of the problem.
  10. GTSBoy
    Disconnect the boost tee altogether. Leave the hoses there, open. Drive it. Floor it. See if the boost comes on and immediately goes straight to overboost (like waaaay too much boost). If it does, we're starting to learn something. if it still refuses to boost, then we also learn something - that something else is wrong. Things that could be wrong here. Blocked fuel filter, f**ked fuel pump, dirty injectors, maladjusted CAS (timing), blocked cat, crushed exhaust, rag in the intercooler pipe, something wrong with the wastegate/actuator. Also, I cannot tell from your photo if you have the tee hooked up correctly. Draw a sketch showing exactly where every connection goes.
  11. GTSBoy
    Maybe a video showing both the tacho and the boost gauge on a 3rd gear pull will help us?
  12. GTSBoy
    You won't find anyone who can show you a photo of a stock setup, because no-one has a stock setup. So, if you look at the last diagram, you will see where hoses are supposed to sit, and if you look at the first diagram, and follow the pipes between the solenoid, turbo outlet and turbo inlet, you should be able to work it out, including the T piece.
  13. GTSBoy
    I'm not so sure about R33, but the R32 has a box mounted above the large opening. About where those two holes are right on the upper edge towards the rear end of the opening.
  14. GTSBoy
    Given that they look like EVERY OTHER FUEL PUMP...... https://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1596&bih=863&ei=8e3UW9nYBobMvwS_0q_gBw&q=r32+gtr+fuel+pump&oq=r32+gtr+fuel+pump&gs_l=img.3..0l2j0i30k1j0i8i30k1j0i24k1l6.1949.5068.0.5355.17.16.0.0.0.0.348.2420.0j9j1j2.12.0....0...1ac.1.64.img..5.12.2418....0.OzbsQNiXZAI
  15. GTSBoy
    It's in the last picture I posted.
  16. GTSBoy
    The OEM boost control solenoid is hooked up to vent some of the boost signal from the compressor outlet tapping port on its way to the wastegate actuator. the instant you put in any other sort of boost controller (manual, EBC, whatever), the original solenoid is no longer used. The new boost controller then does what the original one used to do.
  17. GTSBoy
    That's the boost control solenoid.
  18. GTSBoy
    It's going to have to go to a (decent) mechanic. It sounds like the voltage regulator in the alternator is not doing what it is supposed to be doing. The initial behaviour you report is basically normal. 13V at the battery, rising to 14.something at idle because the alternator is charging. But the alternator should not allow the battery to go flat as you drive it, so it is not working properly.
  19. GTSBoy
    There is no "manual switch". You can put full voltage onto the steering solenoid, but that's kinda shit, because it gives you fluffy loose steering with no feel at all. Far better to make the speedo make the HICAS computer happy (it's not the ECU that cares about the speed for steering - it's the HICAS).
  20. GTSBoy
    Yes. But what you have in your bay does not match the manual. The line you are holding IS going between the canister and a solenoid, but the solenoid is behind the PS reservoir, which would tend to suggest that it is the boost control solenoid valve, not the purge solenoid valve. Just follow the lines in the last image I posted and you will see what is supposed to connected to where. I can't show you a completely useful photo of mine, because it is in an R32 and the canister is different.
  21. GTSBoy
  22. GTSBoy
  23. GTSBoy
    ^ Nope. It's not that line. The only line that is supposed to be in that area runs from the top port of the purge control solenoid at the rear of the coil cover, to the top port of the charcoal canister at the front of the bay.
  24. GTSBoy
    Likely have a broken wire. Likely the main one from the back of the alternator, but could be almost anything.
  25. GTSBoy
    The voltmeter is trivial. Just connects to power. The oil temperature needs the original temp sender. If that's not on the engine, then the stock gauge won't work (with whatever sender may have been put in its place to run the aftermarket gauge). The boost gauge work off the stock sender on the firewall, which at lest should probably still be there. You just need the original wiring diagrams from the service manual, which is freely downloadable all over the place.
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