GTSBoy

Could very easily be the VCT. On/off makes no difference to it being broken enough to make a noise! If it truly is a harmonic sort of thing, then the biggest culprit would be timing belt/tensioner. Some aftermarket cam belts slap around like crazy. Or the tensioner could be unhappy. Would not suggest cam lobe scoring as likely to cause anything at all, let alone a noise that comes and goes at a certain rpm.

Yup, suggesting mods for an RB20 R33 is literally the worst advice possible. It makes less power than a Corolla (of the same vintage!)

Even with the stock wiring the 460 will probably still support more fuel than the R35 injectors can flow....But I'd definitely be rewiring it because the stock wiring is not designed to cope with that much power draw. More pressure via adjustable reg won't buy you any extra capacity. Pressure costs more than flow does in terms of pump current draw. And higher pressure means lower flow on these pumps also. What power is it making now, and what duty cycle are the injectors at?

I'd be looking for voltage drops/bad connections around the pump wiring. Also looking for crap in the bottom of the tank blocking the sock.

Um. What? Remove wires, remove hoses, remove fasteners holding rail down to runners, lift upwards. Which bit is giving you trouble?

460 is a big pump. R35 injectors will support over 550 engine HP. Keep turning the boost up until it stops making power.

Open the TPS and spray some contact cleaner into its gubbins.

The fastest way to answer this question (for yourself) is to go out to the car, open the boot, fish around in the taillight assembly and pull out a globe. Presto. There's the answer, right in your hand.

There's a crowd in the UK that sells them on eBay. Cheap and good. I bought a set a few years ago. Much better than the old cracked pleather.

There are 3 Nissan gearbox crossmembers used on the various Skylines and S chassis cars, used for autos and manuals. They are stamped A, B and C. I can't remember which is which, and in the long run, my specific history is probably not helpful, as I first took the RB20's auto out and put in an RB20 manual box, which used a different crossmember to the original. Then I swapped in an RB25 manual which used either the same one I originally had, or the third of them. Regardless, look at the stamp on yours, go down to the wreckers and get one of each of the others, and you will have what you need.

The slowest Skyline available does not need a loud exhaust. Follow above advice. Do not spend ANY money on making it faster, unless & until you can do a complete rebody of a wrecked turbo car into your (presumably) clean and unthrashed shell.

Dead/dying coil(s). Dirty AFM. Dying fuel pump. These are the usual suspects.

I've recently been using Fantastalloy(TM) after my supplier of unobtanium went out of business.

So, as I said. Buy a Yaris and drive that until your time is up. Then you can have a turbo, without needing to cut its balls off and then try to stitch them back on.

Just take the caliper to ABS or some other brake shop and get what you need. If you really want to know the part numbers, then get Nissan FAST (download and install it) then look the part numbers up on that.

It would be legal. Pain in the arse to do. Better off leaving it turbo, buying a Yaris and driving that around until you're old enough.

It just screws in to the plastic of the glovebox surround. The screws are just the usual dark olive coloured dome head tapered self tappers used all over the interior, that screw into holes in plastic. In your photo above, you can see the plunger for the light switch. The catch should butt up against the plastic and the two holes should be visible. If they're not, then it is broken and you will have to build it back up somehow.

Sikaflex

Hence why I tell people to go to a real workshop when they need to do these things - because workshops who rely on interrogating CUs to find out what is wrong are the only ones that can afford the kit to do it.

BOVs (in OEM applications) have never been about preventing turbo damage. On Nissans, the better term for a BOV is "compressor bypass". What they actually do is; Allow air to flow around the compressor (instead of through it, with the restriction on flow that that presents before the compressor is spinning fast enough to not be an obstruction) which gets air into the engine easier/faster allowing it to generate exhaust gas flow faster and get the turbine spinning the compressor earlier - AND simultaneously, because the air is not flowing through the compressor the mechanical load on the compressor is reduced and that allows it to spin up with less drive power from the turbine. Result - reduced boost threshold. Vent the air on gear changes or throttle modulations back to the inlet of the compressor to do the obvious thing, which is prevent the back pressure from slowing the compressor, but the return of the air passing through the compressor also helps to keep it spinning as well - so a double advantage there. These effects are small, but they must have been noticeable enough for the OEMs to bother putting recirc valves onto these engines, because otherwise the complexity looks unwieldy and unnecessary.

Various subframe bushes. These are all viable options. OEM bushes would be similar pricing. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Whiteline-Rear-Subframe-Bush-Mount-Kit-W92446-fits-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34/182367596068?fits=Plat_Gen%3AR32&epid=25017000709&hash=item2a75f4ae24:g:QQYAAOSwLghZt-vl https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SuperPro-Rear-Subframe-Mount-Bush-Kit-Fits-Nissan-SPF3774K/152475195902?epid=25017000314&hash=item23803ad9fe https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HARDRACE-Rear-Subframe-Bush-Harden-Rubber-S13-S14-S15-R32-R33-R34-Z32/332207660763?epid=608591038&hash=item4d591e9edb:g:wZwAAOSwONBZDDms Various diff bushes. Same thinking as above. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUPERPRO-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-2WD-REAR-DIFF-REAR-BUSH-BUSHING-KIT-CROSS-MEMBER/112509022194?epid=28017011598&hash=item1a320f6ff2:g:Yk8AAOSwHnFVn3Ea https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NOLATHANE-Rr-DIFF-SUPPORT-MOUNT-BUSHES-SUIT-SKYLINE-R-32-33-34-GTS-GTR-AWD-49162/191681010188?epid=1550428335&hash=item2ca1141a0c:g:Vz8AAMXQQUpRCgZM https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ZSS-Rear-Diff-Support-Member-Bushes-Nissan-S14-S15-R32-R33-R34-Z32/371515134157?epid=610886258&hash=item56800710cd:g:GXoAAOSwUdlWejLK https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WHITELINE-Diff-support-R-BUSHES-KDT913-FIT-NISSAN-GTR-R32-R33-R34-RB26DETT/360903073105?hash=item54077fdd51:g:rzkAAOSw4A5Y1IVN I think it's easy to see how you can spend $500 on the bushes. A day for a mechanic to drop and strip a subframe enough to push these bushes in and out and then refit and get it wheel aligned and shit might sound outrageous.....but it's not really.

And if you have to you can always work out the rate using the method in the stickied thread above. It's easier on coilover springs than typical OEM springs. GTRs also usually do NOT have rates like 7F 6R. They are usually very soft in the rear compared to the front (compared to the RWD Skylines). This because heavy, understeery blob. There are 2 schools of thought with this stuff too. Heavy springs and lighter ARBs, or lighter springs and heavy ARBs. Both give you the same overall roll stiffness, but of course one is much more compliant (with reduced left-right independence) and the other is tuned for faster bumps and has better left-right independence. I recently softened the rear bar from a 24mm adjustable to a 22mm adjustable and made the car much better to drive. Made both ends feel better, which was unexpected. I tend to think that really stiff ARBs are more trouble than they are worth.

I can point you to a good mechanic on Adelaide's north side if you need. Diagnosing this sort of crap across the internet is usually more frustrating than helpful and it almost always turns out to be something other than what was suggested by the helpers. Your problem could be caused by dead coilpacks, dying fuel pump, crappy AFM, a massive vacuum leak, dirty injectors, or something as simple as badly set timing.

Have you looked at the thread? The one at the top of the forum? The one with all the RB26 turbo swap results?

First things first, don't be trusting the wideband unless you have cross checked it with another. There are various things that can be wrong and make it read wrong. So check it before trusting it! Second....assuming the AFR is real, it might be recent. All the past thrashing might have been done with enough fuel and the pump is only just dying now, or the filter only just dirty enough to cost flow now, etc etc. Third. 11 psi is they max that you should consider running on an R33 for a number of reasons. But assuming that everything is actually working, I would expect that the injector duty cycle would be 100% or thereabouts for 6000rpm and 11 psi. That's because the mixtures are already rich under boost and going to 11psi only pushes you further up the map into a region that Nissan flooded with fuel to prevent people hurting the engine. If you could look at the standard R33 map in Nistune (which you can't, but you can look at an R34 one) the commanded duty cycles are flat out up there. But, yes, assuming the mixture is real, running it under full load for more than a couple of second should lead to detonation and engine damage pretty quickly.