GTSBoy

Oh f**k. It's always something stupid and unexpected.

Everyone who actually tries to drive the car above 9/10ths removes HICAS, because its design intention is to make the car feel "sporty" at 7/10ths, but when you push to the limit it starts to fight the driver for control. 1990's computers/codes not up to the task. Do not want.

Toyota/Lexus design language has been getting progressively more stupid. Same with Honda (Civic in particular). Massive wafflebox black plastic that looks like air flow path but is actually closed. Ugly Predator mouths on the front and rear. I scraped a hire Camry's front bumper on the lower left side because it is at least 150mm wider down there than it needs to be. But having made that complaint, the rest of the car's design isn't vile. The shapes involved in the bonnet, wheel openings, the style lines (such as they are) down the sides, are a whole lot less immature and stupid than most Korean an Euro-trash models at the moment. And when I say "less immature and stupid" - that Camry actually looks good in all those areas.

Well, you wouldn't rebuild one out of the four. And rebuilding 4x Teins is going to cost a fair chunk of buying new. If it were me, I would bin the whole lot and just put in $2k worth of MCAs.

Something something something can't put in an older engine than the chassis.

But will it be legal?

That's when they do it. There is NO reason why you should need to gap down plugs at low boost. I run 12 psi on a Neo at 1.1mm on Splitfire coils.

No, go f**k yourself. 38 posts in and you're already a total f**king wanker. The search function works. The forum is >20 years old. The answers are all there. Oh, and the uneducated people you are raging against are anything but.

It'll be ignition. Plugs, or more likely, coilpacks.

Basically the same to sit in. Basically the same to look at. Certainly more similar than a 32 would be, from where he's coming from.

Um no. Just no. Wrong. Nothing to with "restriction" or creating oil pressure. They are a heat exchanger. Only a heat exchanger. Nothing more. They are for bringing the oil up to temperature faster (largely for emissions) and for moderating the worst of high oil temperatures. That's all. Your ideas about pressure are, odd, to say the least. I'm not going to google it for you, but there would have to be at least 50 mentions of the thread size and pitch on these very forums alone.

Those arseholes in their bro-'dozers can all go and get f**ked too.

Clearly driven by a 'tard. The extensive earthing installation in the engine bay is testament to that. If not wovr, then almost certainly not insured. If not insured, then probably bought with money with difficult to explain provenance.

Impossible to say. Need to take it apart. If it's only knocking because it's done a bearing, then it should be fine. If bits of bearing shell have somehow gotten out and run around the engine, it might be fine, or they might have done some damage as they went. Said damage might be fatal, or it might be repairable. If there was a lot of solid objects running around inside, then it's probably f**ked.

If all the f**king flatbrimmers get out of the scene, it will be a good thing.

Let them "win" the thread. It was started in 2003 FFS!

I second the above statements. I would, however, caution that the behaviour you describe does sound like it might have something to do with the installation of the external pipework.. Not swearing by it, just suggesting it - if it didn't used to happen and is only doing it since. Perhaps take the sandwich plate off and put the filter direct back onto the engine. See if the problem goes away or stays. See recent thread by Dose Pipe where similar shenanigans are reported. The electrical problem possibility is also strong. Take the dash out and check the happiness of the various connectors on the back. Wiggle the instruments' fuse in the fusebox.

Money have to change hands?

Will certainly need brakes. (I actually have some I could sell, if needed) Diff will be leading to excessive tyre wear on one side!

I don't hate the R33. I just think it's ugly, by comparison to all the other GTRs. And I don't even count the R35, because, well, comparing apples and pineapples.

That was about Soarers/SC400s.

Perhaps more likely that the external oil plumbing (in particular the anti-drainback valve) has suffered a failure and letting the oil out of the loop? Perhaps your investigation path would be to pull that loop apart when it's cold and/or possibly drained back and see if it looks more empty than it should be.

When they first came into the country - everyone said it. But then they got tired and tatty and the pain faded and no-one says it now. They look a bit like an overinflated Hyundai Excel, sadly.

You see, it's these statements that cause us the most confusion. The R33 does not have curves. It just has smooth, swollen, featureless panels, like a VN Commodore. Look at the front guard on this car. The rear guard is not much better. On the R32, the front guard is much more nuanced. The flare added to it from the base car to get the width they needed made it look wider - whereas the R33 is already just wide. So wide that they had room for that ugly flat guard lip. For cars that are so similar, in length, width, height, weight, drivetrain, all the changes in the R33 that change the design language from 1980s to 1990s were bad. Everything about mid 90s car design language was less good than the late 80s (after the box phase of the R31 era was finished). The best view of the R33 GTR is from a low viewpoint from the rear. Yes, it looks wide and hot. But it is ruined by the 1990s tail lights (more the indicator part, but nevertheless - the lights).

Wow. That's a looooooooong way away from here. Just for clarity, this is a Jap 4 door, not an Aussie 4 door, right? Anyway, welcome. We will require pictures of it in the most scenic location you can get to. We won't ask you to drive it up Mt McKinley or anything like that. But a polar bear or moose of some sort in the back/foreground would be good!