GTSBoy

f**king inches! Measure from the guard lip directly above the centre of the wheel down to the centre of the hub cap. Wants to be about 345mm. What you have looks to be too low (for good handling, and for clearing speed humps, drains, etc).

The only mods worth doing are a complete engine build for 9.5k rpm +, with ITBs, 300° cams and near open exhaust. 'Course, then it won't drive on the road. So......leave it alone.

Must have had 5 blocked injectors! My RB20 routinely used 12 - 13 in traffic. And by "traffic" I mean, 50+ minutes to drive 25 km.

For indoor storage some old sheets are all that's required. As if spending money on custom car covers. Set fire to a pile of $20 notes.

Stock Neo is 206 kW at the engine.....therefore about 150 at the wheels. The most they can be pushed to without risking turbo destruction and/or running out of injector is ~200-210rwkW (and more like a realistic 200rwkW, not an optimistic 210!). That's well shy of 300HP at the wheels. Minimum spend is; Hypergear highflow, ca. $1k Injectors, ca $600 Fuel pump, ca $300 Z32 AFM, ca $300 Nistune + tune, ca $1200. But you wouldn't do these things without an exhaust and frontmount. If you have them already, great, but otherwise you need another couple of thou. $4k is just a little bit shy of what would be good to have to spend.

Nope. Nothing to do with the fuel system. It will be in the control system. AFM or O2 sensor.

OK then. This question has been asked many times before on this forum. Do some searching and find the answers. You will find all of the answers from those who have gone through it themselves telling you not to do it. But feel free to ignore us.

I'll confess to not knowing anything about Fortune Auto. What's available in the US is of little consequence to import owners over here. But....calling them a "brand" and calling MCA a "brand" may not be completely appropriate. MCA's suspension development comes out of their own motor racing experience. Rally and time attack. As such, they're not just buying in Taiwanese made dampers and slapping perches and springs on them, like a lot of other "brands". They actually develop the valve stacks for the application. The extra input is the justification for the extra cost over K-sport or D2 or any of the other "brands".

Keep in mind that MCA's pricing is in Ozzy dollars. Even with shipping to the US they shouldn't be too expensive, and they are top notch, known to work. Using anyone in the US to supply could be a little riskier, simply because whilst they may have great quality, they might not have known setups for your car. Or they could just be one of the typical rubber dogshit importers that claims to know everything about your car. Either way, do a little research and only buy what is well known to work from well known & trusted vendors. And don't let the existence of cheap coilovers set the "value" of a set of coilovers in your mind. You still need to spend upwards of $2k (Ozzy) to get really good suspension.

No modifications at all is the rule.....no? Regardless of turbo.

Yeah, the fuel consumption shouldn't be worse than about 14 L/100km if you're driving it normally/sensibly.

No-one in their right mind would replace Jap coilovers with Jap coilovers in the face of MCAs being available.

18V angle grinder and just remove the bits that annoy you!

Yup. Looks like the nuts have been ground down in some weird arsed way. Your best approach would be brute force and violence. I'm with him. PFC is a f**king terrible idea in 2018. Was a terrible idea in 2008!

Never contemplate putting cams into an RB20 unless you are turning it into a track pig. They have no off boost torque with stock cams. I have no idea why anyone would want to make that worse! Just fix the CAS drive.

The biggest issue is that, as you suspect, you have no charge management in your proposed system at all. And the thing will always be running both the charger and the inverter, so you will always be using a lot more power (due to all the inefficiencies stacking up) than if you just ran the pumps off the wall. The next problem is that you seem to have a problem with your expected battery capacity. If you want to pull 200W off of a 12V battery, then you will be pulling 200/12 = 16.7 Amps. A 50 Ah battery will only support that sort of power draw for a few hours. You would actually need a number of batteries that size to support your power requirement for 24 hours. And that is probably the reason why UPSs look so expensive - because you can bypass the faulty calculation and go straight to their specs. A typical small UPS can run 200W for only a few minutes. That's using an 7Ah alarm battery. If you want to support a typical 200W PC for 6 hours then you're looking at a UPS that will cost a couple of grand and will have at least 8 or maybe 12 of those batteries in it. And it will be the size of a large PC case. If you want to run for 24 hours, now you're looking at something the size of a small filing cabinet. That's also how large a stack of car batteries would need to be.

Um.....welcome to the era of the 3D printer. Draw it up in some 3D modelling thingo and send the file to China for a 2 week turnaround in the plastique of your choice.

What you're talking about is effectively a UPS - which you could look at instead of a cobbled together bunch of bits. The other thing you could do is work out if the tank can run for a length of time only say, only 1 of the pumps. So when you have the rare power failure that you're protecting against, would the single pump keep it going for 3 hours? 12 hours? 2 days? By rationalising how much stuff you need to keep going for a (short) time, you can either use a smaller power setup or get more run time for your capacity.

If it smells like a turd.....

I have just normal T1s in the front and regular globes in the rear.

Switch is open circuit with the pedal up, short circuit when the pedal is not up. Takes 3 seconds to check between the terminals with anything that can measure a short circuit.

Not halogen. Just normal automotive incandescents. Halogen bulbs are in headlights. Old cars like ours should not have LED lights anywhere on the outside. Looks cheap and nasty and wrong. Warm white auto bulbs for parkers, number plates etc. LEDs are good for brake lights if you can get ones that illuminate the housing properly (which is rare). LEDs for indicators need careful selection to make sure that they have suitable resistance to flash at the proper rate. All in all, not worth the pain in the arse to try. Globes work fine.

Can't imagine that they're any different.

This. The simplest answer.

Quality of life. It's not just how good the idle is, which hardly matters unless you spend hours at traffic lights. But better spraying injectors give better fuel economy, better throttle transition, lower emissions, bigger genitalia, the whole lot.