GTSBoy

The hell you doing inviting more bloody Kiwis to move here? Sydney is already Auckland's biggest suburb.

Will need a gearbox. The NA box will tap out after a year at the most. Just not strong enough for the torque load. Will need a fuel pump. Will need an AFM. Will need that boost sensor, but it should be on the engine.

If there was any similarity in the shape of the rear edge of an R33 and R34 bootlid, then the question might make sense. But given how different they are, it is meaningless.

Or trying to work out if it's worth stealing.

Um....paint matching is the job of the spray painter. He buys and mixes and tests paint to make sure it matches the adjacent panels. You don't just spray and pray.

I'll assume that you meant to have a question mark at the end of your sentence. The next thing to say is.....do you know how to use the internet? Because you could search for for sale ads of R33s to find out what people are asking for them. The more direct answer is, they are not worth much. Although that depends on what you mean by "much". For some people, $8k is a lot of money.

The update is likely that he won't be getting ADR approval because it won't meet visibility requirements. Sadly, because it's an otherwise good idea.

Nope. Sorry. Not my cup of tea. Just seemed like you had the "Shorted something (your temp gauge wire) out. That something is not directly connected to the ECU, so probably didn't burn anything in the ECU" type of event that usually then leads to a fuse popping. Some parts of your system still have power, but others don't. Sounds like a fuse.

Either an engine or gearbox mount is sufficiently stuffed to have had the whole driveline move such that the shift lever is getting pushed by the side of the tunnel hole, or, there is a problem with the selectors. You might have lost a dowel or pin that holds the selector onto the shift rod. Might be only partway out and wobbly. I'm sure there are other possibilities too, but failing to imagine them right now.

They'd be pounds (mass) per minute

Surely it has to be a fuse?

No-one ever thinks of the fuel pressure.

You have to make a speedo drive gear for the RB25DET gearbox to drive an R32 cable drive. The usual donor part is from a Navara, which used the same basic gearbox as RB25DET, but had cable drive. If this has been done on your car already, then the single most likely problem is that the drive cable is broken. They are old and they don't like the rather sharp bend that has to be put into them to fit the R32 cable onto the Navara sender conversion.

Fuel pump wiring likely disturbed by all the rooting around in the boot.

It must just be my anti-R33 bent, but I would have said the easy way to identify a Neo head is it will be under the bonnet of a good car.

As long as he's only doing it to the usual shitters that he wrecks, we'll survive the trauma.

If the R32 in question is in good nick, please don't cut it up. I have no problem with people abusing cars that are already f**ked up, but there are so few good R32s left now that it would be a real shame to deliberately damage one, even if it is for teh cause of making it look pretty cool (I like the Rocket Bunny look).

No, it makes no difference. They are all the same car underneath. The fact that it's a V35 still makes it hardly any different than an R32 underneath. Most stuff looks essentially the same. Of course, the parts may not swap like for like, but it's not as if Nissan made major changes to anything over the years. So sedan = coupe = everything else.

Now that you mention it....yes, the pair of spacers that goes in the rod end on each one is missing. Perhaps you should check to see if you have stock arm on the car, or another set of these. And yes, when rod ends wear, you get metal to metal knocking noises.

If you set the length of the AMS rods to exactly the length of the stockers (to the centreline of the bolt hole through the front joint) then you won't need an alignment afterwards. The paranoid would at least get the alignment checked, but the confident would expect the alignment to be unchanged. Doing so would buy the benefits of reduced slop, but not the potential benefit of winding in a little more caster. Shortening the rods would best be done AT the wheel aligners, to get the measurement you want. If you don't know what you want, don't f**k with it. There is plenty of reading on here to inform you though. Changing suspension units, even with a small height change, will not require a wheel alignment. Again, the paranoid would check, the confident would just run with it.

Definitely the front. The equivalents on the rears are called "tension rods" in these cars. You do not want to f**k about with those. I have written many words on that subject lately, if you want a read.

The caster rods control the fore-aft movement of the front lower control arm. Without them, the lower control arm would be able to move forward and backwards in the wheel well enough to crash into the guard liner, because the bushes at the chassis end of the arm aren't designed to take loads applied in that direction. The stock caster rods are fixed length. No adjusting them. The stock amount of caster in these Nissans is a bit low - only a few degrees. More (positive) caster provides an increase in the amount of dynamic camber (camber that appears in the wheel angle as the wheel is turned in the steering axis). The stock caster rods also feature huge rubber/hydrogooshy bushes that provide a metric shit tonne of slop. These aftermarket caster rods provide the ability to adjust the length to get the amount of caster that you want*. They also usually use rod end joints in place of squishy bushes, thereby completely eradicating any deflection under load. In my experience, this is f**king Excellent (TM), as it drastically improves the behaviour of the front end. * R32s in particular do not like having lots of caster wound into them. You can wind more into R33s because the upper control arm design is superior. The more you wind into an R32 the worse the twisting/binding that occurs in the upper arm and shit starts to get real with them, much worse/faster. Therefore the limit for caster on R32s is probably 6°. I think I'm running ~5.5°, even with tricky upper arms.

Nope. Victoria is the only state with a "number of inlet mods is limited to X" rule.

The new photos are wrong. Somehow you have hood the boost T up between the wastegate actuator (which is correct) and the vent line back into the turbo inlet (which is VERY wrong). You now have absolutely NO boost control. The loud pop at 4k is when your car is hitting boost cut. The ECU is killing it. The boost T's second side needs to be connected to the nipple on the turbo outlet. That's either on the turbo outlet pipe (to the intercooler) or directly on the compressor housing (there are a couple of options depending on the car - Nissan did it both ways).

Valid point. I was only in the engine bay yesterday fiddling with a low beam and remembered that was the case!