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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    There's absolutely no point in doing it. The LS coils used to be the only way to get a big fat upgrade. But they are a bit of a pain in the arse to use with narrow dwell limits, problems with fake copies, etc. The new hotness is modern (truly modern, not the nearly modern that the LS coils are) pencil coils, like they use on just about everything these days. The usual choices for RBs are Toyota (Yaris, Celica, etc), Audi R8, and even Nissan's own VR38 original coils. They are all cheap, very powerful, reliable, etc etc. The Toyota ones are Denso, which would be one of the best manufacturers of these things. I think both the others are too.
  2. GTSBoy
    Go Pro
  3. GTSBoy
    And while that one may be dipped......it is on a hard plastic part of the door trim. Not the squishy part. Sheezuz!
  4. GTSBoy
    Oh. My. God. Siebon. They make CF things. Actual carbon fibre. Real carbon fibre laid up like manually, with skill. Not dipped pieces of crap.
  5. GTSBoy
    Given the (lack of) money involved in buying these these days, I would suggest getting a 34 GTT instead. Better motor, newer by several years, nicer in most ways than 33, and in the most important way - it doesn't look like a Maxima rear-ended a Magna.
  6. GTSBoy
    OK, here's an exercise for you. Go dip a vinyl glove. Let it dry. Put it on. Scrunch your fingers. What do you think will happen to the dip? Really? What do you think will happen? Wheels are rigid surfaces. Door trims are NOT. They are vinyl backed by polyurethane foam to give them the "soft touch" experience that people want. If you want the tacky tacky experience of carbon fibre dipped door trims, tou would first have to remake the door trims out of something hard, like ally, or fibreglass.....or carbon fibre.
  7. GTSBoy
    Yes, but again.....dipping onto surfaces that are flexible (the door trims) is not going to be a long term proposition. 2 weeks later it will be all flaking off.
  8. GTSBoy
    There's plenty of stuff already on these forums about building RB22s. So have a good search and read what you can find. Tip, use google to search, not he forum search. Just specify that you want to search sau.com.au only. Water pumps are a no brainer. Just use the stocker. Oil pumps.....well, there's nothing wrong with the stocker there either. There are a few people on here who have been sick enough to build RB20s and many build threads showing what they did for pumps, so same advice about searching there. You are going to want to choose the absolute best turbo. Something like a BW 7163 would be a good idea. You need all the boost as soon as you can get it, when there is so little displacement to make torque. RS Enthalpy's site says that they use Z32 ECUs for RBs. That is dumb shit for an RB20. If that is what they're doing for your engine, dump it and get a Nistune board and plug that into the RB20 ECU. Then it is live tunable, just like aftermarket. Best value way to do it.
  9. GTSBoy
    Yeah, they're Aussie. They're the other main recommendation around here.
  10. GTSBoy
    It's stock, unopened motor territory, really. Just head studs a good idea.
  11. GTSBoy
    Hot tip though.....look at the sticky thread at the top of this forum.
  12. GTSBoy
    The Nismo twins are the usual first suggestion around here. Not sure about your budget though. I think once you decide you have to spend more than ~$750 for a clutch, you just pay as much as you have to to get the right clutch. $2.5k at Just Jap.
  13. GTSBoy
    But the short answer is yes. This is probably the first of the 14000 such threads on this forum where the OP intends to fit sensibly sized wheels and tyres. +35 would be better than +32 (which will poke out a tiny bit more than the 35s). But GTR wheels are +30 and they fit fine. 235s a better choice than 245 (which will bag out a bit more and may just scrape on the guard lip at +32).
  14. GTSBoy
    Say what? An RB25DE R34 is coming up as RB20DE? All the GTVs were 2.5 litre, yes?
  15. GTSBoy
    Welcome. GTR registry not necessarily going to get the details of non-GTRs correct. It's NA. It always was. There is no such thing as "turbo ready". Note, as pre-warning, that most of us here will advise you not to consider turboing the car, on the basis that it is better, easier and cheaper to just buy a turbo car. That's the Skyline logo. You talking about the panel gap? Won't affect moisture entry. The car may have been damaged and repaired - without enough care paid to getting it straight enough to make the panel gaps look nice. Will need inspection by a crash repairer if you want a good opinion on what the condition of it is. Don't listen to anyone giving you shit. You could just get the lips of your existing wheels cleaned up. Otherwise, I recommend Enkei RPF-1, in black, as the bestest, lightest, non-expensive wheel. That is a shitty pod enclosure. I would f**k the whole lot off for a factory airbox. You won't ever need more than that. That pod will be worse than factory. The exhaust manifold is wrapped. And it IS intended to keep the heat in the exhaust and not let it out into the engine bay. This is a good thing. Do not change it. Here's a pro tip. These forums have been running for more than 20 years. Every question has been asked before. There are thousands of hours of reading available on here. Search, and ye shall find.
  16. GTSBoy
    As if buy a Jap brand exhaust with a 2.5" restrictor inside it (like they nearly all have). 1. Choose mufflers. 2. Build exhaust at shop. 3. Skid off into sunset.
  17. GTSBoy
    Lean mixtures almost certainly from lack of fuel supply. Beyond that, no I can't tell you. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and load it up, see what it says.
  18. GTSBoy
    Hi. Trust that number as much as you would a $3 note. Also......did they convert the odo to miles? Or are you converting it for us? Either way, unless it has been locked up in a box in Japan for many years, it is highly unlikely that it's only done a hundred thousand kays. Wound back odos is the single most reliable feature of imports from Japan.
  19. GTSBoy
    Left-right bias problem may well be related to a bed in problem. If you have gotten a good bed in on one side but not the other, braking effort won't be even. Could also be because of a rotor/hub runout problem, although you should be able to feel that. The pedal problem implies a fault in the booster or master cylinder. Did you bottom the pedal out while bleeding? if so, you may have damaged the seals on the master's piston. Or you may have pushed junk into a port that's preventing fluid flowing or relieving when it is supposed to. Oh, and I forgot.....GTR has ABS, so the problem could also be lurking in the ABS unit. These are complicated enough that they could cause both a bias problem and possibly the pedal problem.
  20. GTSBoy
    To repeat, ITBs can in no way affect the type of "response" that most people mean when talking about turbos. The "response" of a turbo engine is usually assumed to mean where the boost threshold is or how laggy it is (which are not the same thing). It is not usually meant to refer to the throttle response. ITBs are all about throttle response. The reason they are so snappy is simply because the volume of inlet runner downstream from the throttle plates is much smaller and the effect on the flowrate is therefore that much faster. In the order of 1 or 2 tenths of a second though....not hundreds of rpm like with turbo response.
  21. GTSBoy
    Download the R32 GTR workshop manual. It has RB20/GTS4 wiring diagrams in it too. Most of the non driveline specific stuff is identical between the GTRs and Skylines anyway.
  22. GTSBoy
    At idle it is more likely to be caused by the ECU using timing to control idle speed. This happens when the IACV is too gummed up to work. It could be that the CAS is buggered. Bearing wear and shaft wobble make it impossible for the CAS to work properly.
  23. GTSBoy
    PMd
  24. GTSBoy
  25. GTSBoy
    Do not waste your time and money transplanting Nissan's 2nd and 3rd slowest RB engines in place of their absolute slowest RB engine. There is no good that can come from this. Drive the slow piece of shit around slowly until you are off your Ps then put a turbo engine in it if you must. Although if you then come and ask us about transplanting a turbo engine we will all tell you to f**k the piece of shit off and just buy a turbo car, because there is too much expense and pain involved in engine conversions for things that you can already buy off the rack.
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