GTSBoy

I must say, I am still constantly surprised that there are people who think the R33 looks the best. I didn't think there was anyone who actually liked them.

If it were mine, I'd pitch the "uprated" ignitor along with the coils and just go Yaris (or any similar Denso) coil - so long as I was willing to go without the coil cover.....or just space the coil cover up perhaps. Or, if I were a bit more flush for cash, the R35 coil kit is the smartest move.

Can't tell if it's mechanical or an exhaust manifold leak from the video. Use a hose as a stethoscope to listen around the exhaust manifold and turbo gaskets. If not there, use same hose, or a screwdriver as stethoscope to listen around cam covers, timing cover, etc, to see if you can localise it. It could be worn tappets causing valve noise, or it could be your VCT solenoid or belt tensioner up the shit, or a number of other random possibilities.

Just run the rear pump stage through a power steering oil cooler out the front of the car and back to the header tank. Free win.

No, this is the Juke RS, not the Juke R (which was the GTR in a clown suit). I'd be sure that for the same money as a GTI (what they're claiming in that shitty article), you're only getting the asthmatic 4banger DI turbo with the boost wound up. This is just the clown suit, without the GTR parts.

You are warped. The R34 looks like a Skyline. The R33, barely so.

The thing is, he has the 4.1 ratio in the engine, and that is the harder one to change. Makes sense to keep that and put a new 4.1 centre in the rear, no?

Splitfires are direct swap, as I said in earlier post. You can get the right model for S1 RB25 (ie, needs and uses the igniter module on the back end of the head) or you can get the right model for the S2 RB25 (igniters are built into each coil). As the old Nissan igniter pack is old and prone to failure, it is worthwhile to consider using the S2 type even on an S1, but you would have to do some re-wiring - which is well documented on the interballs. None of those options requires an ECU change. However, running a standard RB25 ECU is dumb, so it should be changed just as a matter of principle. The pencil coil options I described are all available as kits with wiring adapters that just let you plug them in. I think they are all "with igniter", so wouldn't necessarily work on an S1 or RB20 or early 26 without deleting the original igniter. Again, no need to change the ECU for this, subject to what I said in above paragraph!

He said that, with no HICAS, you do not have speed sensitive steering. The HICAS CU is the box that provides the PWM modulated signal to the power steering rack solenoid to give you that variable assistance. S, what you have is fixed assistance.

Splitfires are ~AU$550 at JustJap, similar pricing on eBay. OEM coils are also available, for similar pricing. But I must point out a couple of things. 1) DO NOT, under any circumstances, buy cheap coils. The various other rainbow shades of coilpacks available will always lead to tears. They have poor reliability (compared to Splitfire & original). 2) Just taking the easy option and installing Splitfires (or any other same-format coil) these days is stupid. There are kits available to install Yaris (or other equivalent Toyota-Denso coils), Audi R8 coils, R35 GTR coils, etc etc. These are ALL modern pencil coils with much much more spark energy than the shitty old ones that use the original RB format. Some, like the Denso ones, are very cheap, but won't fit under the coil cover. Others, like the GTR coils, may fit under the coil cover, but will cost some more. If I had to replace my (Splitfires) - I would most certainly be doing pencil coils. Guaranteed. 2JZs use them and they don't need coilpack upgrades to support stupid power.

Weak coils ALWAYS show up under boost. If the loom is sufficiently shit that there is horrible voltage drop, then the coils might not charge properly and so give the same symptoms. It's usually coils before anything else though.

Truck turbo places usually have plenty of options.

ECU may have decent protection against reverse polarity, but it's a reasonable bet that the immobiliser didn't. Note the use of the past tense.

Gotta double bag that shiz!

Blocking the signal lines is not the same as "blocking the BOV". Think about it.

Have you eliminated ignition system failure (plugs & coils)? Weak sparks will not work once the boost rises. Have you checked the fuel pressure under load? Going lean and detonating can and will feel like a misfire - although if you're familiar with it you should be able to tell the difference. If your AFM has a problem (reading too high, essentially) then your ECU could be doing the old "boost cut" routine. They don't normally do that until higher boost levels - but might if the sensors are lying to it.

The usual list is: Dirty fuel injector(s) Fouled/worn spark plugs Faulty coils Dirty IACV Dirty/stuffed AFM (including dirty sensor element, dry/cracked solder joints, bad loom pin connections) Bad CAS loom pin connections Dying fuel pump or FPCM And to that there is a random selection of other possible shit, like the O2 sensor can cause wierdnesses, the fuel pressure reg could just possibly be stuck open, and so on.

When there's literally 30 possible causes for this sort of shit, you're only going to get us reeling off the usual 30+ causes.

I feel dumber for having read this thread again.

Depends on whether you take 10% discrepancy to be "from lowest to highest" or "from any one to the average/median". On that basis, your typical value is ~155 and the lowest one is just on 10% lower than that. There is also measurement error associated with both your lowest and your highest values (and all the others in fact, but we'll ignore those as they are so close together). So it could be worse or a little better than your numbers show. If it were me - I'd like to see the worst one not be that bad. But it is probably fine and could and probably will run just fine for a looooong time. Or, it could be an indicator that the injector in that cylinder is a bit crappy and has damaged the exhaust valve or seat or any of a bazzillion other possibilities. Did a leakdown test get done also? Can be more informative than just a comp test.

So how do you know that that is a low fuel pressure problem? It could be, but it could also be a bunch of other shit.

Mate. 4.1. Do not consider 4.3 unless it is strictly a drag car. You won't even have a VLSD in it. They pretty much did not put any LSDs into any NA cars, and especially not AWD NA cars. You probably won't have HICAS either. I think they didn't put it on the shopping wagons.

I don't think that anyone's faking Simmons (as in China fakes). Given that all Simmons these days are effectively fakes.....

I also vote for treating them like you picked them up in a Pattaya nightclub and then found out they didn't have a dingle.

1. Dunno. 2. Gunna drag race it? If so, keep 4.3. If for road, then 4.1 is better choice. Almost no difference between, but slightly longer legs on the 4.1 is a better drive. And WRT keeping 4.3 at rear and 4.1 at front. No. Hell no. Must have same ratio F & R. Otherwise kerblooey will happen. You have been warned. 3. GTR exhausts are the way they are because they're fed from a different front pipe design. And single turbo exhaust should suit. 4. Dunno. Why don't you look at it. It will have the BM number on the side of it.