GTSBoy

Yes and no. Or, more correctly, no and yes. Guards have nothing to do with bonnet and grille fitting. GTR grille does only mount off of GTR headlights. I have GTR bonnet, grille, headlights & bumper on my car, with GTSt guards. The proper GTR bumper is slightly too wide/wrong shape to be squeezed onto GTSt guards, but it does fit. There are repro GTR bumpers made to suit GTSts without that extra little bit of width. It's possible that there are probably imitation/fake GTR grilles available somewhere that can mount onto a GTSt front end without having to have the right headlights, but I've never looked into it. I say this because of the existence of GTR style bumpers to go on GTSts....there would need to be a way to fit the grille without having to have the headlights too. Having said all that, in this day and age of 3D printers and Sikaflex, it should actually be possible to come up with something to stick onto GTSt headlights that would provide the GTR grille mounts.

A small one, at that.

This. Always this. Even better with GTR grille & bonnet.

How the hell, and why, did you end up with sidefeeds on a Neo?

I think it's spoof.

It's a big and complicated explanation that I can't be bothered running all the way through. Suffice it to say, with enough fuel flowing through a skinny fuel rail, there can be times when the pressure at the outlet end is lower than at the inlet end and this could cause problems. Centre return simply halves the length of the rail and halves the qty of fuel flowing in each half of the rail. This leads to ~ 12% of the possible pressure drop from a single entry.

What do you mean you searched and couldn't find the answer? It's only been asked on here about 12*10^19 times in the last 20 years. The clutch pedal installation is a case of removing the pedal box from the manual and installing it in the auto. Plus arranging for the appropriate holes and bolts in the firewall, clutch plumbing, clutch pedal switch & wiring inside. You need the manual gearbox loom (basically the whole lower looms from the lower driver's side of the engine bay). You need to get rid of a few annoying things like the neutral start inhibit circuit. I don't know why I am typing this stuff out though, because as I said, there would have to be bunches of posts and tutorials covering it.

A little more clarity is required. 1. When you say "braised", I assume you don't mean "cooked in its own juices". I assume you mean "brazed", as in "welded". 2. When you say "brazed", I assume you don't mean that a hose has been welded. Are you talking about a metal pipe? (ie, not a hose). If you need to replace it, but can't find one, then another repair is almost inevitable. Just get it welded up by someone who knows what they're doing. If you need to try to find one brand new....good luck. Perhaps Amayama or Kudos or one of the other stockists of NOS have one or can find one for you. Wouldn't hold my breath though. Otherwise......2nd hand from a wreckers. There have to be plenty of Neo inlet manifolds sitting on shelves from busted motors.

Now I know you are on drugs. Yes, it looks awesome*. No, it has nothing R33 GTR about it. *Awesome as in a 12 year old boy would stiffy up over it. It is a very childish/hotwheels car sort of concept to smash a Corvette and S20 together.

Millions available on eBay. Some are great, some perhaps not so great. Look for the traders with many many feedbacks and google them. You will soon pick the good from the bad. You will not need a diffuser. Just buy a "kit" to suit exactly your car and it will take you half an hour to do. Then another half hour to redo the ones you put in back to front.

Delete HICAS & ABS and enjoy the time saved in trying to get something you don't need working?

Nice. Keep it out of the sun. The dashboard and the top of the rear seats will thank you (as will that paint, if it's any good).

Ebay. $6 each with mounting hardware from Australian suppliers (still same Chinese crap, but arrives in a few days). These are the same actuator with the same wire colours that have been available for 30 years. Even if it dies in 5 years - it's only $6.

Yes, you need a generic actuator for the driver's door.

Going on 20 days later, any new news? I was getting to the point of pondering PMing to ask and then remembered the thread.....

Kero in hot water is a good place to start. Increase the concentration until it starts working. I've used neat kero to remove stubborn tar etc from paint. Strips wax like a mofo though.

Kero. Just have to wax afterwards. Wax is a bloody good idea anyway, as it stops the soot getting to the paint in the first place.

Yes I* have done it. Not hard, not expensive. Requires fabricobbling together. *When I say "I", 'twas actually my bro'-in-law, who has done it dozens of times and I couldn't be bothered.

The reason this is necessary is that the R32 speedo cable drive does not suit the RB25DET box and the RB25DET box does not come with a mechanical drive.....but the Nav uses the same basic box and did use a cable.

Search using the terms "Navara sender".....

Speedo drive must be manufactured from a Navarra speedo drive. Has been documented on here many times. Search it up. Easy enough for someone who knows what they're doing.

Better than 90% are though. The nice ones got slid into power poles first.

I would get out of an R33 and into an S6/7/8 in a heartbeat. Not for a daily of course, and as I daily my R32 there's no way in hell I'd do it. A stock late RX7 is twice the car a grubby old R33 is, no matter how much money has been spent in the R33. They drive (handle) way better. There's almost no comparison. The RX was designed from the outset to be a sports car. The Skyline is (originally) a family sedan, tarted up by removing 2 doors.

I don't know what diff is in your car. If it is factory and if it is LSD, then it is viscous. There were no mechanical diffs in anything other than GTRs until the R34 (when a few got helicals, which are mechanical, but not as you know it). LSD oils have friction modifiers in them to make the friction surfaces work. These are not needed in diffs without friction surfaces. Viscous diffs do not have friction surfaces (unless they have been shimmed by people who wrongly believe that shimming them is a good idea).