GTSBoy

Find out what the fault codes causing the lights are and you will be well on your way......

The very best shape is round, because this has the highest ratio of cross sectional area to wall area. If you make it oval shaped, you get more wall for the same number of square units of flow area, so get more friction. But provided you don't go too extreme (ie, keep the L/D ratio to about 2 or less, it shouldn't make a difference that anyone would notice.

R33 GTST seats don't look good in anything. They go straight into an R32...but they're nearly as old so they seldom look much better. S15 seats should be able to go in. At worst, you might need to modify one of the rear mounts. You do with R34 seats into R32, and S15&R34 are same era. It's also not as if it is easy to just remove rails from one factory seat and fit them onto another factory seat. The rails are not really a separate part on most of them. That's for aftermarket seats. There are not really any good budget upgrades available any more. JJR's Bride/Recaro copies are about as cheap as it gets. Or Sparco R100. But these option are still >$1k once you have the seats and the rails. And, without proper tilt/slide, they're not quite legal in a 2 door car either.

Just take the globes out and work it out for yourself. Would have been faster than starting this thread.

Oh f**k. I just pissed my pants.

Twins will be a lot easier. Single will be a lot better.

It will be awesome. The ratio, that is.

That's been hacked. The solder will be in the joins under the tape.

Such a shell is only good for reshelliing a bashed up drift car these days.

Well....yes. But it's not a small job. We're talking about near complete destruction of the rear of the car to do it.

There is absolutely no call for using a torque plate when gapping rings, unless you're talking Indycar/F1 level builds. The distortion that happens in the bore walls when the head/plate is torqued up is in all 3 dimensions, and the most important ones, when boring or honing the bore, are the distortions that push or pull the bore material up & down, causing bulges. But these are tiny tiny bulges, and I'm pretty sure there are few people and few feeler gauges accurate enough to measure them. Your own measurement error and the acceptable tolerance on the measurement will be larger than the difference caused by the lack of distortions. And that's not even taking into consideration what Bob said above.

You cannot use half shafts from a VLSD in a helical. Wrong length. Do not shim a VLSD. That's retarded.

You don't have to. They all pretty much work the same. There's the connection to the tank, the connection to fresh air and the connection to the inlet manifold. There's usually some control placed in the last of those, and the connection to fresh air is supposed to be filtered - ie the turbo inlet.

You could look at the workshop manuals for these cars that show exactly how these connections are done. Also, don't be surprised by Mitsubishi made parts on a Nissan. They don't just make whole cars. The CASs and various other bits and bobs are variously Mitsubishi, Hitachi.

Passenger side is the side that hops most under axle tramp, due to the way that the torque loads the car left-right. ie, more downforce load on the right. That fracture is a very typical torsional fracture. I agree, probably from fatigue. They all look like that. A materials scientist/metallurgist might be able to look at it and tell you whether it started to break on the shorter, darker part of the outer, or if it started to break on the shinier, longer part of the outer. But either way, you can see what happens. All the strength is out in the rim. When it lets go, the centre suddenly twists off leaving that rough finish.

OH FFS! https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451743-breaking-rear-drive-sharfts/?do=findComment&comment=7443897

Yay! R31 in perpetual nighttime!

That doesn't make a lot of sense. Boost cut is an ECU function, not an ignition system health issue. Making it work better (more power) should make a boost cut worse. It's not necessarily a boost cut anyway. The other consideration is boost leaks, injector seal leaks, etc.

If it's a real misfire on #6, and you have all new ignition gear on it, then we will assume that it's not ignition. But nevertheless, swapping coils &/or plugs around and seeing if the miss moves is a worthwhile diagnostic. If it's not spark, could be a bung injector. If it's not those things, then it may well be internal. Have you done a comp check or leakdown? Cometic gaskets have very particular surface finish requirements. Was it put on properly? If it's not an actual miss and it is instead a boost cut type issue.....OP6 turbo running at 10+ psi will possibly overrun the ECU's happy spot on the AFM signal and call a halt to the fun.

Well, everybody knows you put the bigger brakes on the front, so you have to have the bigger wheels there. Old Porsche 911s are the only ones allowed to break that rule.

Probably not. If you read through what I posted above, it should be clear that I do not think that there is a "resistance" that you could measure that would tell you what you need to wire in, because I don't think that wiring in a resistor will remove the seatbelt light. What I actually think happens is that the seatbelt switch effectively removes 12V from Pin 16. The way to mimic that would be to simply put 12V onto Pin 16. But I must stress - I would not trust my say so!!!!! That is all predicated on me understanding how that seatbelt switch works to make the light come on, and what must therefor happen on the line to Pin 16. I could be wrong. That kind of lines up with what I was thinking would happen. The seatbelt switch does not appear to be able to affect that light. Not helpful though. Yes, that's what I'm saying, unless you know for a fact that that is how other people have solved this problem. In which case they know something that I don't, because I can't see how it would work. And keep in mind, that my recommendation for a pot was only for working out what resistance you need. Not for permanent install. replace pot with fixed resistor for maximum happiness in these situations. (Stops it getting accidentally maladjusted 3 years later and causing problems).

Now that I see the wiring diagram, you do not want to just hook up the resistor across those two pins. If you look very carefully at the circuit in the box on the left, you will see that it is a voltage divider of some description. 12V comes in the top, earths are at the bottom. Now there is more than one thing going on in there, and I am not sure if everything is to do with the seat belt switch, but let's just look at the switch for the moment. What I don't know (because I've never cared) is whether that switch is open or closed when the belt is not clipped in. I'll take a punt that pin 16 on the SRS module has high impedance, so when the switch is closed, current will flow through the seat belt warning lamp, through the switch and out to earth, giving a warning lamp, indicating that the seat belt is not clipped in - and pin 15 sees a low voltage. If you clip the seat belt in, the switch will open, no real current will flow, and the 12V will turn up at pin 16. The seat belt warning lamp is a globe, so it will have some resistance, so it will contribute to a small voltage drop from 12V....but how much depends on the impedance of pin 16 and the globe itself. You'd have to measure these to be sure, but it's quite likely that it is almost all the 12V turning up on pin 16. Pin 15 is a different story. The SRS warning lamp is an LED, so it does not have the same V=IR behaviour as a globe. It will have some fixed forward voltage drop, and I don't know how much. I also do not understand the drawing of the wire that looks like a sense line reporting from the earth side of the LED that goes back around into the side of the LED, appears to go out the other side and go back to the wire that runs to pin 15 on the SRS module. Ignoring all that, the 12V comes in the top and through the resistor then goes over to pin 15. If the seat belt is not clipped in (using the assumption I worked through in the above paragraph) then the switch will be closed and current will flow down through the seat belt lamp as before.....but there should still be 12V at the top of that circuit, so I can't see how the seat belt switch would affect the SRS warning LED or what turns up on pin 15. I can't see how the switch being open or closed will affect the voltages and currents around the resister and the SRS LED in that voltage divider circuit. In short, I do not understand the circuit enough to advise you. You should have perhaps lead with the diagram, because I just assumed you knew that you simply needed to put a resistor across the wiring - but that's not clear from the diagram at all. It is quite likely that the SRS module is able to compare the voltages that turn up at pins 15 & 16 and make decisions based on that, but that's just a guess. Maybe someone who is actually more familiar with that type of circuit will wade in.

Just for sitting there? Don't worry about it.

Can't tell you. For one thing, I have no idea what state you are in. And even if I did, I don't know the rules in QLD, for example. All the states do things differently, even though they are supposedly all working to the same rules. What I told you about the various suspension mods earlier is all true. But how you get treated for those items will vary. I know for one thing that here in SA, they did not even blink when I fronted for a complete roadworthy inspection (at Vehicle Standards, not some blue slip mechanic) with my HICAS completely pulled out and replaced with a non-HICAS rear subframe. It looked completely standard, therefore it was. If I had turned up with a lock bar or possibly even a delete kit, they would have seen it and maybe questions would have been asked. I can also tell you that I was told, in no uncertain terms by the inspector, that had I fronted with coilovers, they would have been perfectly happy to pass the car, so long as the adjuster collars were welded to the body so that you could not lower the car past minimum. No engineering required, but definitely have to "fix" the coilovers. I did not try my luck with any adjustable suspension arms with spherical joints. I put standard ones on for the inspection. At that stage it was only the caster rods anyway. So, yes, many people do "have to do this" to clear defects. If it isn't within the rules, you will usually be hard pressed to get it passed at a proper inspection.

I was going to say "I can't imagine how a non-LSD 4 pinion diff could get into a Skyline. Therefore assumption is it's an LSD." But a closer look at the one view of the end of a pinion through the opening suggests that it might be open, rather than LSD. In which case, have you got a boat(?), because it would make a nice anchor. In which case....oops. I didn't look closely enough.