GTSBoy

Why would you want to do this?

What do you mean you "shimmed it"? Did you just arbitrarily jam shims in between the outside of the centre and the axle bearings? If so, don't. You will f**k it. That is a mechanical LSD. Can't really tell if it is 1-way, 1.5-way or 2-way, because you did not show a good photo of the cams (visible in the round openings in the side of the centre's casing). You do not "shim" them. In fact you shouldn't "shim" a VLSD either, but let's not have that argument. The tightness of that LSD is set up INSIDE the centre. Not outside.

Cold oil: Oil flows straight through sandwich plate, via hoses to&from the filter. Hot oil: Sandwich plate thermostat opens. Unfiltered oil goes out to the cooler and back to the sandwich plate, then on to the filter & back. Your diagram looks correct.

Selling it on to someone? :p

Do you mean "loose in the slider"? Or do you mean "loose in some other random part of the frame where it might be able to be tightened up by looking for fasteners and applying a socket"?

Well, actually, you can get a rod&piston out with the crank still in. But getting the sump off a GTR in car is not a pleasant exercise. Pleasantness issues aside, the pure silliness of attempting to hone just one cylinder in an RB26 in situ rather than doing the job properly still needs to be stressed. Either do it properly or sell it on to someone who will.

To what? If it doesn't blow coolant out the cap or overflow bottle, then it is not boiling and it is still working. Thermostat on the Neo is set to ~90°, runs there all the time. Air-con on in 38° traffic the other day saw my oil temperature running over 110°C (and my oil temp is usually exactly the same as my coolant temp) and I just kept driving and no engines were damaged.

95 is not overheating.

Nononnonnnonnononononononono. Engine out. Build it properly.

You are just talking about changing the centre right? And you are aware that the crownwheel and pinion get moved from your old diff to the new centre, right? And the bearings are the same, and the stub axles are the same? And the only real difference is that if you have a viscous diff (that of course won't work at 600HP) the only real difference is the quality/type of LSD centre that you put in there? Ergo, choose from Cusco, Kaaz, Nismo, or even various others. They all have multiple different sorts available. 1-way for easy street driving. 1.5 way for mostly street and tough hills runs or a bit of track. 2-way for a track bruiser. And beyond that, some are adjustable in varying ways, some use higher tech internals. You'll need to read up on the many options then decide.

Almost sounds like you still have the factory solenoid in line. Standard that does 5psi bled up to 7. With another boost tee in line, set to 7, that would probably do 7 up to 10. You damn sure you disconnected it?

Anything with a 2mm decrease in base circle diameter is going to clear up to ~10.8mm, obviously enough. Why would it not? Arithmetic is all you need to sort that out.

Doesn't have to be specifically "Consult". Any workshop with a Snap-On or equivalent diagnostic handset should be able to do it. I threw my bro-in-law's diag unit* on my car and saw the ECU, TCU and HICAS computer all available. That was 20 years ago before the auto tranny fell out of it. * Can't remember the brand.

You need to get a proper scan tool hooked up to the diag port and see what the ABS CU has to say for itself.

You shouldn't even try to run these engines on 91 RON fuel, even on 6 psi. You may well have pinged the thing to death and no have lots of damage on top of your pistons making hot spots and making it more prone to pinging. Nevertheless, this is the standard "my car is missing" type of question and so all the standard answers that have been rolled out millions of time before apply. Ignition system, AFM, CAS, etc, etc etc. All possible. Internet diagnosis is impossible.

I'm pretty sure that that Nolathane kit has the equivalent of pineapples already (plus the main bush replacements). I strongly suggest that if this bush kit has been installed and the back of the car feels like it is flailing around, then something else is wrong (or the kit/subframe has been installed incorrectly).

They wear and they are rebuildable. And the other place out there that you don't want to hear about slop is the splines.....

Defo the pump.

Watch the double unicorn series on MCMTV2. They did this swap a couple of years ago. You will learn a lot.

Best thing is pull coil plugs off while it is misfiring on the dyno. You won't find it at idle. If you can make it misfire a bit and then shut it off while it's doing it, you might be able to inspect the plugs and see some difference. Might, but very far from probably. What are your plug gaps now? What boost is is breaking down at? What is the condition of the coil harness?

Firstly, no-one still uses Nolathane anything. I'm not saying that they are outright inferior with respect to how much additional stiffness they will add around your subframe when freshly installed....but everyone else moved on to SuperPro and other options about 20 years ago. Secondly, if you have old f**ked out bushes and other bushes etc (the outer ends of the HICAS tie rods are a known death spot) in the rear end, trying to bandaid the subframe location won't do a lot. Solid (alloy) collars are more effective, if pretty harsh. You haven't mentioned wheel alignment settings, ride height, or even which chassis we're talking about. If it's an R32, a lot of flailing around can be expected. if an R34, we'd expect less (due to the improvements in the rear geometry between the two).

Welcome. You don't need all that fuel pump capacity for the power level that a Z32 can support. You will simply overheat the fuel as it goes round and round. Consider dropping at least one of the 044s out of use.

Jesus Christ! Stay away from Autobahn and whatever the hell a "regen" is....if that's what they think will "fix" it.

Throttle motor sensor is NOT anything to do with the TPS. It is to do with the traction control throttle's position sensor. You will get that code (in the ECU) if the TCS system is not working (is, if the TCS computer is not present, or the TCS throttle is broken in some way). We don't make TPS sensors work with Q45 throttles on NEOs, because, um, we don't change the TB. Why would we? The stocker is big enough for everything.

Good result. Another entry in the "it'll be coils before it'll be something else" file. Surprise finding on the launch control. Looking at the video (just now), it does sound & behave very much more like a deliberate misfire (ie launch control) than a shitty coil misfire. There's nothing better than having 2 things going on at the same time to confound your diagnosis.