GTSBoy

A GTT is a turbo. Is it really a GT, or has someone put an NA engine into a GTT? The reason for asking/caring, is that it will have some effect on our answers.

3076 is more of a 300rwkW turbo. You could do a search in these forums or using google pointing at sau.com.au for mentions of 3076 power reports. There is a 58 page thread stickied at the top of this forum that would have dozens of mentions in it alone. It's a very common turbo. If it really only has ~180rwkW in your car, then.....dunno how that would be possible at 16 psi. The standard turbo will do more power than that at 12 psi! So you can't assume the 180rwkW number is correct. Definitely wrong. At 16 psi it should still be in the mid 200s at least. And it would feel pretty quick.

Probably <350hp@wheels. Or more to the point, <270rwkW at the wheels. More likely to be ~250rwkW. And that would only be if it was boosting to more than 16 psi and well tuned. The 3067 is a baby turbo. 67mm compressor really is too small for a Neo25. Better off with at least a 71, preferably 76. And that was 10 years ago. Now, there are significantly better options available. Not shitting on your turbo, just letting you know where it falls in the power potential stakes. 240-250rwkW is a really nice power level for a street car anyway.

I really should read your post more thoroughly! I thought you were looking for a clutch and thought CBC was an odd choice, but was willing to run with it if they said they could supply what you were after. CBC is probably a fair choice for getting bearings. All the other major bearing suppliers are probably equivalent. You can also source the bearings (singly, rather than as a kit) from Nissan, or other sources of Nissan spares (like Amayama, RHDJapan, etc). You could also talk to gearbox/diff workshops about buying through them, although it would probably cost more. They, at least, upon sighting your gearbox, would be more likely to source the correct bits. Now, here's an important point. I'm not sure whether there are any significant differences between the push and pull type GTR gearboxes for any of the bearings. The thrust bearing for the clutch itself is, of course, totally different. But everything behind that could be exactly the same. Of course, the early push type ones probably saw some upgrades in the "model change" that lead to the pull type, so there are probably differences in bearings between them, along with synchro spec differences and all sort of other possibilities. If you get and install Nissan FAST, and put the VIN into it, you will find listings of all the part numbers for your car. If the gearbox is the original one, it should be accurate. Alternatively, you could post your VIN in here or in the dedicated thread and ask for someone else to FAST it for you. Beware though, it is very generous of people to do it for you, because it can be quite time consuming for a large number of parts like this.

As Duncan said, your pictures are of a pull clutch. The later R32 GTR RB26 clutches have nothing in common with the RB20 clutches. Make sure that you don't confuse CBC (or any other clutch supplier) by mentioning RB20s. Only talk about "pull type RB26" clutches.

Other threads.

Wait. What? RB20 <> RB26. There is only push clutches on RB20 and RB25, except that the RB25 Neo went to a pull clutch. Early RB26s were push. Later ones were pull. Your post is confusing because you mention R32 / RB25 gearbox in the thread title, then you say RB25 GTR in the actual post. There is no such thing as an RB25 GTR gearbox. Are you talking about a RWD gearbox, or a 4WD gearbox? If RWD, are you talking about the original box from the R32 (which would all be the small body, regardless of NA RB20, turbo RB20 or NA RB25) or are you talking about the RB25 gearbox from an R33 (which is the same type of clutch as the R32 stuff anyway) or a RWD gearbox from an R34 (which, as I said above, is a pull type). Or, if AWD, are you talking about the box from behind an R32 RB20DET from a GTS4, or are you talking about the box from behind an RB25DE (NON TURBO) from an R33 GTS4, or are you talking about the box from behind an RB25DET from a Stagea. Notwithstanding the lack of clarity in your question leading to all the above possible answers, all of this is extremely well documented on this and a billion other sites.

Oh, you'd change the numbers at rego, but the engine number doesn't explicitly say that it's a 20 or a 25.

Except for one thing. ECUTalk only interrogates the ECU, not the other CUs on the Consult bus. So to ask your ABS/TCS or HICAS ECU what is wrong with it, you either have to manually trigger the diagnostic mode, or use a proper scan tool. Ask me** how I know that it is impossible to put a Skyline into HICAS diagnostic to find out the steering angle sensor is not working. **Hint, the steering angle sensor is part of the song and dance routine used to put it into diagnostic mode!

The mount differences are not so much about the chassis that the engine is in, so much as the fact that the 4WD sump is used to provide things that are provided by the 2WD block.

Yeah, but I recall there being sidefeed injectors and other shenanigans. ie, not buying a Neo, buying a mixed race horror story.

Um.....given that the bore on the 35 is something like 10mm larger than on the 25, what do you think? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VQ_engine

Now you see, that's something that I wouldn't expect unless it did scream "2500" on top of the engine. I would have expected even checking (and having a reliable database of) block casting numbers to be beyond most assessors, let alone funding a teardown to measure bore & stroke. There may well be some insurers out there who have seen it enough times that it's on their standard list of things to check on Skylines. Consider the equivalent situation with WRXs for example......how much of a pain in the arse would it be to see if an old 2L WRX had a 2.5 block in it?

O2 sensor is likely to be fine. Hell, 20 years ago I put one from a Ford onto my RB20 because it was the most cost effective way to do it. As long as the sensor is the same tech, it's fine. But where they are not the same, it's not possible. The sensors on Neos are quite different from the older ones, for example. The boost sensor, if it has the same part number, will be the same. Couldn't be different. Couldn't cause your problem, unless you damaged/stretched a loom or pin or something while changing it. Also, they are completely unlikely to need to be replaced at any time, so you wasted your time and money there.

Yeah, in real terms, the likelihood that anyone would ever crack the shits at you for having an unapproved RB25 in an R32 has got be so close to zero that it's just not worth worrying about. OK, so I went to the effort of getting my car done properly, but if I had just a few more things on my car that would have made it hard to get through Regency, I would likely have just said "f**k it!" and done the conversion anyway. Just put a coil cover on it that doesn't say 2500 and who the hell would ever be able to tell the difference?

Something of relevance to the confusion over the Neo/vanilla nature of the engine in question. There was a short period of time where the RB25s in Stageas were a weird hybrid halfway engine using some vanilla 25 and some Neo stuff. They are effectively a total orphan and a complete pain in the arse because of it. Best avoided. I looked into it a long time ago when trying to buy a Neo for my conversion and worked out what head and all that stuff was on them, discovered I did not want one because of all that and promptly forgot all the details except the cautionary warning to not consider buying one. Once you have one, all the shit you have to do to make it work is a bit of a waste of time that you have to back out if you later need to change to either a Neo or a vanilla 25.

By the same token, if the engine hasn't been doing anything, you will probably be changing the spark plugs for no reason at all. They're not exactly going to degrade. Hell, they wouldn't/shouldn't be any worse off if it had done 30000 km in that time. Oil should be changed. It's been sitting there with whatever condensation etc was put in it the last time it ran.

Software + Z32 = Z32. But no-one in their right mind would use a Z32 AFM these days. That's so f**ken' 2010. R35 GTR type blade AFMs are 10x better. Nistune is great. The engine protections available are limited to what is present in the factory ECU, so, no, none of the more esoteric things you can do with aftermarket ECUs are possible. But then it's horses for courses isn't it? If it's a street car, then you don't really need that stuff. If it's a hack drifter (and let's face it, all drift cars are hacks) then there's no sheep stations at risk and you also don't need it. If you're racing for serious, then you should probably be using an aftermarket ECU anyway, even if the Nistune would be perfectly capable of running the engine to the same output. i won't comment on Link ECUs as a choice. If I was paying for an ECU, I think I'd pay proper money and buy a proper ECU.

Ha! ^This!!!! Who told you that? Or, more to the point, did you misunderstand what they told you? The ECU does not have a HP limit. The AFM does, and any AFM you upgrade to will also have a max amount of air (and therefore power) that it can handle. Fuel injectors ditto. Turbo ditto, fuel pump ditto, intercooler ditto (although a bit more blurry, not so much of a hard limit), etc etc.

Yeah, that's the very silly way to get a bigger RB20. The smart way to get a bigger RB20 is to put an RB25 or 26 in the sport where the RB20 was. It's a very very long time since it made sense to make internal modifications to an RB20. Rape them as they are, or upgrade to the right size motor.

My post was more sarcastic, which is what I was going for.

Technically, it was /thread at post 2.

Non turbo? Non LSD. 99% of the time.

There's.... a.... whole.... thread.

Relays are easy. You provide a dedicated (and fused) power supply cable to the relay (onto one side of the switched contact in the relay), with fat enough wiring to handle all the current that the load will use (which is one, or all 4 headlights, depending on what you choose to do). You use the original wiring that used to power the load to switch the relay. That generally means cutting that wire and placing the load side of it onto the switched contact of the relay and the incoming side of it onto the coil trigger of the relay. Provide an earth for the coil (so the original wire will run the coil instead of the load). When you turn the circuit on, the circuit simply makes the relay run instead of the original load, and the relay now supplies power from the new feed to the load. The current required through the old original wiring (to run the relay's coil) is massively less than the original load's current draw. The relay will have better contacts in it than the old switch, so should last for many years (and is easily replaceable, should it ever start playing up). The new fat power supply puts max volts onto your headlights, getting you the most light you can out of the bulbs. Win. The only time relays in headlights can be tricky is when there are complicated changeovers between high and low beam. Not really an issue in old Skylines though. As I said, I simply put one relay directly behind each globe, so they are all switched on by their original wiring, but powered from a separate feed to each headlight. Each relay has it's own fuse in it to handle the load, and there is a master fuse in the main fusebox where the headlight power is found anyway.