GTSBoy

ah.....the "P" word. Useless imbiciles. I stopped considering them as an option in the 1980s.

I have 4 relays. One behind each bulb. f**king easy to install them that way - no real re-wiring required except running power out to them.

You're going to need heat shielding between the two (exhaust and turbo outlet). Those o-rings will be nitrile, buna or something similar. You can google up their temperature limits, but I think you can take it for granted that with a black surface absorbing radiation of a f**king hot manifold, they will get damn hot. I would wrap the clamp in fibre insulation (think thin kaowool blanket) and then some reflective tape, and try to get a sheetmetal radiation shield layer in between that and the manifold with an air gap either side.

There is a complete Neo for sale on this forum right now for ~$2.5k. Barras are f**king enormous and heavy. Great if you want a drag car. Shithouse if you want a normal car that still handles. Any rebuild should not be to factory spec. Should be decent rods and pistons at the very least.

Check alternator function.

But but but......RB26!

Yuh, it's hard to believe that anyone could think that anything so cheap and nasty could be built anywhere other than ChinaBay.

That'd be 2nd hand though, not new yeah? No point in comparing apples with chimpanzees. The desirable Nismo diffs are up around $1800 new.

39654+A holds the CV on the shaft. The big one holds the CV together (I think).

What sort of dumb shit statement is that? I wrote, "4 out of every 6 are usually f**ked in the box."

Ugly AF. HKS not known for ugly in the same way that Veilside are, but also not known for elegance in the same way that Nismo are. This one is verging on Veilside ugly. This one is verging on VL Commodore levels of strap on Tupperware stupidity. Would not bang now, nor would ever have frothed over it 25 years ago.

Circlip assembly. Easy enough.

Handling is worse with a stiff diff. More understeer. Traction is vastly improved over the VLSD poobag. Cusco have some better options than KAAZ. Nismo have better options again.

You need to read what I wrote.

Yuh, you are confusing it/yourself. I initially read Steve's post the same way you have. Stop and read it again. Imagine pulling the inner CV joint off your R3x axle and throwing it over your shoulder. Do the same to a 350Z driveshaft but toss the shaft and keep the CV joint, and then jam the 350Z CV onto the end of the R3x axle shaft. Et voila, you have gotten rid of a CV that has 5x1 bolts and replaced it with a CV that has 6x1 bolts, on the same axle shaft that you always had in the car. Now this axle will connect to a diff that has 6x1 flanges.

You wot mate? Looks like pox. Rear wing wraps forward to make it look like the failboat line of an R33 rear end. Front bumper looks like it belongs on a tupperware Camry. Unnecessary plastic cladding on the lower half of the doors. Front lower corner of the side skirt is just plain big, bulky and ugly. Conversely, the back end of the side skirt is nowhere near as vertically deep as the Nismo one, despite all that sideways bulk required to implement the (probably) non-functional air vent. Regardless of whether that vent is functional or not, it's not needed to feed the brakes anyway. Face looks like this

That's cool. I didn't know the CVs would transfer to the older shafts. Opens up a whole world of possibilities.

The outer case is the same outer case that the original Nissan diff was in. Nismo does not supply the housing, just the internals. Same as any diff.

They are unreliable cheap arse copy factory #876 Chinese crap. 4 out of every 6 are usually f**ked in the box.

Just take the head off and find out. This internet diagnosis thing is bullshit.

No. A wastegate can either stick open or closed or anything in between, plus a bunch of other unwanted behaviours. So you can either have uncontrolled boost, or barely any boost or any combination of symptoms. A BOV doesn't usually fail such that it just opens up and dumps boost. They do leak, and if it's bad enough you might lose a few pounds from the top end.

Pay that. 1992 Corolla is the only sensible choice.

There are old and new ones on eBay all the time.

Buying an NA when you really want a turbo is a bad move. Converting it to turbo is even worse.

It's on this page http://www.hypergearturbos.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=74&product_id=69&limit=100 380HP rating.